• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.8
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• pp.106-119
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• 2008

This study explores grotesque characteristics that were raised as the Aesthetics of the Ugly and how it was featured in Alexander McQueen's arts. In a methodological approach, the study attempted the analysis of historical literature that was published both nationally and internationally, along with justifiable investigation using fashion/collection magazines such as Vogue, Gap and Internet search. The scope of this study ranges from 1996's Haute Couture and Pret-a-porter collection pieces modern, to date The results of this study are summarized as follows: The first grotesque characteristic present throughout Alexander Mcqueen's arts is that it featured horrifying images or evil motives with pointy heads or horns, dark colored dresses, silver accessories, Dracula, witches, skulls, soldiers of evil, death and sickness. Second, aversion was realistically portrayed by frightening objects, extreme intimacy and motives that signify death and closely relative to cruelty to human bodies. It also became visible with physical destruction of the bodies and dissecting of internal organs, etc. Thirdly, its expression of humor is out of common sense with distorted human bodies by intentionally overemphasizing certain portion of the clothes or body parts. It also featured strangely deformed bodies by ignoring the typical shapes of clothes, vague definition of gender and using of unusual objects. Forth, half-man and half-beast images are portrayed using various types of bird species or animals to Identify disparity. It further defined this image in the form of non-human cyborg by incorporating technology.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.95-108
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to analyze the historical change of Paris Collection in relation to the social and cultural environment. Together with the various changes in society, creates fashion, the historical background of the Paris Collections is analyzed from the end of the 19th century until the present. The research method includes analysis entered on data from literature and magazines. From this study, the following conclusions can be reached. 1. Paris Collection is composed of various situations such as the economic aspect, the changing society, the change of the costumes, the change of consumer's consciousness, etc,. 2. The position and role of Paris Collection will be changed in the future. But, there is no alternative. Paris Collection is the best system which we need in our society. 3. Since the level of the planning of the apparel industry becoming raised rapidly, Paris collection tend to avoid the traditional aspect. 4. In order to make good product, good understanding of the historical background need. It must be considered to understand changes such as consumers lifestyles, social trend, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.2
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• pp.144-158
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• 2010

The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-$\grave{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.2
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• pp.116-130
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• 2011

Ethnic fashion and makeup were studied. 264 fashion designs from pret-$\`{a}$-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: 1. The major types of ethnic fashion and makeup were Africa. American Indian. Japan, India. China and Inca. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were soft smoky, smoky, retro, nature, avant-garde, eastern. 2. Makeup types expressed in ethnic fashion were used for the image for the designer's collections rather than ethnic features. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more used than others. 3. Soft smoky makeup types were more expressed in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. In F/W seasons soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than other types. 4. Soft smoky and smoky makeup types were more expressed than others in Milan and New York collections commonly. 5. To emphasize the ethnic image for ethnic fashion, ethnic makeup arts like China, Japan, India, Africa, American Indian, Inca makeup arts and soft smoky, smoky makeup arts were represented.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.1
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• pp.12-23
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is in planning clothing and bag design and VMD. For this purpose, the pret-a-porter fashion collection is divided into the following sectors: brands, years, and seasons, focusing on the design elements. The results of this study are as follows: 1. It is these three ways that determine the relevance of clothing and bag design planning. first, we have analyzed design properties analogously with one design element, like Louis Vuitton. Second, we considered design properties analogously with two design elements, like Chanel, Gucci, Prada. Third, we examined design properties analogously with three design elements, like Christian dior, Fendi, Etro. 2. The comparison of clothing and bag design properties year by year shows that they were mainly designed with an analogous aspect with pattern and decoration. 3. Clothing does well to match a bag between analogous design properties of design elements to express similarity coordination and between contrast design properties of design elements to express plus one coordination or crossover coordination. 4. The aspect of coordination of clothing and bags year by year is different period. This is because of clothing and bag design's change according fashion trend. 5. S/S coordination of clothing and bags is effective to present plus one coordination or crossover coordination. And F/W coordination of clothing and bags is effective to present similarity in coordination.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.14-31
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• 2007

The Vivienne Westwood's design is divided into four eras : The 'Punk and Ethnic Style' era, The 'Feminine Style' era, The 'Eclectic Style' era and The 'Retrospective Style' era. The aesthetic characteristics of Vivienne Westwood's design vastly divided into Parody and the Punk Couture. Westwood's parody is exprssed by british materials, that is traditional British tailoring, dressmaking techniques, traditional british fabrics and her debt to the past. Also Westwood has presented the special characteristics of Punk Couture showing Punk-Style clothes by applying Couture sense to her own Pret a Porter Collection. She pursued newness breaking the conventional aesthetic consciousness through her cutting, mix and match of fabrics and cordy of punk details. Westwood pursued new aesthetics by deconstruction and destruction regulated existing ideas that had been systematized, conventionalized and standardized by history and culture. She had shown pluralistic fashion through her design that exactly reflected characteristics of the modern society demanding variety.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.24 no.8
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• pp.1155-1166
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to investigate deconstructive trends of the street fashion in the 1990s spring/summer(S/S) Collections. This study was carried out by both the qualitative analysis and the quantitative analysis. In the qualitative analysis, the important street fashion was grouped and deconstruction was sampling of category. In the quantitative analysis, it took frequency, percentage and $\chi$$^2$-test. The results of the quantitative analysis are as follows: 1. \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" has been most popular street fashion through the 1990s. The next is \"Sportive Casual\". 2. According to \"deconstructive inner meanings\", there are significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. In \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Sportive Casual style\" and \"Technos/Cyber-punk\" style, \"Intertextuality\" is high. In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Exhibition of Otherness\" is high. 3. According to the \"deconstructive outer description\", there are also significant differences between the S/S street fashion in the 1990s. But, In \"Neo-Mods/Jazz\" style, \"Not Included\" is high, which means the \"N대-Mods/Jazz\" isnt related to the \"deconstructive outer description\". In \"N대-Hippie/Grunge\" style, \"Poverty.outworn\" is high. In \"Sportive Casual\", \"Exposure\" is high. In the \"Technos/Cyber-punk\", \"Destruction.Division\" is high.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.4
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• pp.71-80
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• 2001

Since the beginning of the 90's, Fashion shows appear to be a type of performance form of art combining with other areas to visually entertain the viewers. This can be explained by the modern tendency to escape from society which requires formality and complicated lifestyles. Fashion shows take place in a scene Influenced by the idea of post-modernism which redefines the definition of space. A church, old factory, unoccupied ground, subway stations, or even place like a waste disposal are used as a setting. The stage set is no longer the T shape run way and the procinium arch has disappeared. The gap between audience and stage has diminished and theatrical element is added to the fashion performance by using viewers living and working environments as setting of the show. The human relation with machine based on the cutting edge technology such as the stage automation, robots and mist making sprinkler system introduces new elements with spontaneity and detailed planning in the stage performance. Music also plays an Important role in attracting viewers. The sound track covers house music to techno music. Instead of music being abstract, folks orchestral music, choirs, piano. even live concert performed by pop artist provide the liveliness of the fashion show. And the catwalk itself is a performance. Model needs to be well trained as the capable talent who can handle sensitive gestures, facial expressions, dancing and choreography. The improvisatorial interaction between audience and model lead to audience participation. Models now range from pop star, ordinary people, handicapped people, to elderly and so on. John Galliano introduced the theatrical factors for the fashion show and Alexander Mcqueen approached the fashion show as the visual art of communication. Hussein Chalayan utilized high technology skewing futurism as if in a magic show. Today the Fashion show tends to be a total performance which includes audience participation, impromptu, and that break the limitation that fashion shows previously had. This will lead the fashion industry in opening new horizon of its own.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.113-130
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• 2011

Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.3
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• pp.112-119
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• 2012

Dresses reflecting human aesthetic consciousness are used as a way of expressing the inner desire of human beings. The desire to attract the opposite sex through sexual appeal among the human inner desires is the one innate characteristic that all human beings have. We may say that the $See-through$ look emphasizes a sense of softness and femininity by exposing the skin and expresses bodily beauty by way of using see-through cloth. It is a fashion style that can express sexual appeal and eroticism of female most effectively. In this study, after observing the motivation of dress wearing and $See-through$ look in the perspective of bodily concept and eroticism, colors of $See-through$ look shown in the $Pret-a-Porter$ Paris S/S collection from 2006 and 2007, a fashion style expressing eroticism was newly re-analyzed as romanticism and glam look particularly in 60, 80s compared with other times were re-created and evaluated. As a result of analyzing colors of the $See-through$ look, Yellow Red(close to skin color) was revealed to be the highest( 31.3%), followed by Red(9%), Purple Blue(7.2%), Yellow(7.2%), Purple(5.4%), respectively and in terms of color tone, pale and gray tones that have a sense of femininity and softness was revealed to the highest(20%) followed by ltg(11%) and dkg(9%). We may find the meaning of this study in analyzing colors of the $See-through$ look, and the typical look of eroticism, which has never been tried before. It is required to identify chronological color features of the $See-through$ look and the diversified characteristics of skin colors expressed in them to prepare useful data by which a sense of the $See-through$ look can be utilized for color coordination through the relationship between skin tone and dress by pursuing a more detailed method based on the result of this study.