• 자연과학논문집
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.199-224
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• 1996

후기산업사회로 특정지워지는 새로운 가치와 생활양식이 한국사회 속에서 퍼져나가고 있다. 이에 이소고는 먼저 복식 디자인속에서의 포스트모더니즘에 관한 것으로 후기산업사회의 논리와 포스트모드니즘의 문화형태 사이의 복잡한 연관관계들을 설명하려고 한다. 그리고 나서 디자인영역에서 "모더니즘"으로 대표되는 바우하우스와 비교하여 포스트모더니즘의 특징을 비판적으로 정의할 것이며, 포스트모더니즘 디자인의 기본적인 요소들과 그 정향점을 비판하기 위해 필자가 선택한 적절한 예들을 상세히 분석할 것이다. 결국 필자는 바우하우스와 포스트모더니즘을 뛰어넘는 새로운 시각을 제시하고자 한다. 다시말하면 '열린대화주의적 디자인'이라는 제3의 디자인 개념을, 소개하는 범위내에서 제안하려는 것이다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.9-16
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to analyze expression of pluralism in contemporary fashion. This study has three parts. They are to understand the concept of pluralism, to find the fashion environments of pluralism in terms of politics, economics, sociality, culture, science, and art, and to analyze expression of pluralism in contemporary fashion. The concept of pluralism in contemporary fashion is the diversity and compounds of fashion images. The environments of pluralism in contemporary fashion are multinational economic system, virtual world of internet. mass-culture and postmodern art. And expression of pluralism in contemporary fashion is analyzed into publicity. Publicity is expressed by using things of common lifestyle and the past that people used to and are well-known. Horizontality is expressed by coordination of male-female facts and property-poorness without high or low concept. Multi-nation is expressed by mixing various kind of national characteristics and Virtuality is expressed by layering and collaging complex facts that are not connected each other.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제2권4호
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• pp.317-324
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• 2000

Pluralistic and diverse values exist in the realm of post modernism society. In this context, one particular outlook does not have the same meaning across the whole society. The creation and sharing of a new meaning do not necessarily need the consent of every member of the society. There have been a few attempts to delve into the relationship between sociocultural phenomenon and fashion trends in the pluralistic cultures. However, there has been little research on the theoretical framework in order to analyze a pluralistic phenomenon itself. The purpose of this study is to provide the theoretical paradigms to analyze and interpret various pluralistic phenomena in postmodernism fashion. Theories developed by Gilles Deleuze have been utilized to analyze and interpret the duct tape fashion which is in vogue among the young generation in the USA. The analysis based on the paradigm of Gilles indicates that the duct tape fashion shows pluralistic features of as in the other postmodern cultural activities.

• 자연과학논문집
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.237-255
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• 1996

패러디는 선행하는 친밀한 소재가 패러디스트에 의해 모방되면서 시작된다. 이 때 사용되는 기법은 모방, 유사, 변형, 과장, 아이러니, 파라독스등 다양하며 패러디스트의 의도와 능력에 따라 여러 가지 기법으로 풍자, 조롱, 경명, 의외성, 우스꽝스러움, 존경, 경외심 등과 또 이 모든것이 혼합된 어떤 효과를 주어 선행양식과 다른 비평적 거리가 있는 반복으로서 새롭게 창조 되는 것이다. 또한 패러디는 포스트모더니즘적 특징을 다분히 내포하고 있으므로 포스트모더니즘적 미의식이 팽배해진 화경에서 효과적인 표현양식으로 널리 사용되어지며 그 요구 또한 급증한다. 예술의 한 장르로서 복식에서도 패러디 기법은 역사적 입장으로서 과거를 비판적으로 재구성하여 새로운 복식을 창조하는 한 형식으로 널리 사용되고 있다.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.970-980
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• 2011

As a type of intimate architecture, fashion has always mediated the dialogue between clothes and the body, or fashion and figure. This study seeks to inquire the current aesthetic consciousness of the body and dress in Japanese avant-garde fashion and intends to research the features and meanings in the pastiche of Western sartorial convention in Japanese avant-garde fashion in order to examine the changing aesthetic attitude in postmodern fashion. The study investigates subjects of the fashion collections of the turn of the twenty-first century, when pastiche strategies frequently appeared in Japanese avant-garde fashion, through the methodology of literature research and case analysis. The results of the study are as follows: by developing the strategy of pastiche, Japanese avant-garde fashion exposes the defectiveness of the Western idea of the idealized and standardized body for mass productions, thus freeing design from its traditional confinement to the human body. Drawing on the re-conceptualization of the sartorial convention of Western tradition, Japanese avant-garde fashion designers tend to experiment with extreme exaggeration in form, refusing to subscribe to the traditional Western values built on the balance and symmetry of the body. Through the combination of the past and the present as well as the inner-wear as outerwear strategy, the historical pastiche challenges convention and symbolism, which results in the discord between signifiant and signifi$\acute{e}$ of clothing.

• 복식
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• 제50권5호
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• pp.143-157
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• 2000

The pastiche is one of the most unique characteristics in the post-modern period. The pastiche fashion design is an intentional imitation expressed by deconstructivity of the design. It has become the major creation method of post-modern fashion by expressing the image from the variety and creativity. The concept of imitation in pastiche is the important fashion subject which lead the dynamics and creativities of fashion when It has freshness and spiritual energy. The values of creative area of pastiche are as fellows - firstly, it provides the delightness through the disharmony by being released from the restraint and stress of the restricted society. Secondly, the characteristics of restoration generated by development and reproduced from imitation has become an origin of creation. Thirdly, the boundary between subculture and high-class culture would be dismantled and the elements of these culture are mixed to become a unique image through its abundance and compromise vague public culture. Fourthly, the pastiche fashion dismantles the basic structure of clothes to endow avant-garde esthetic appreciation. Fifthly, the folklore fashion representing the culture of minority and neighboring countries would become a new destroying the historically fixed clue. sixthly, the reinterpretation of pastiche fashion discovers the new regulations and beauties from Imitation to provides tow Important elements of post-capitalism fashion, dynamics and creativity. Lastly the consistent adaptation of image of fashion design with strong technical and theoretical basis can establish new fashions of this era with its unique creativeness.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.145-157
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to suggest new designs and patterns for men's coat by deconstructing and restructuring 18th and 19th century men's coat. In the postmodern society, the reinterpretation of the past fashion trends or items through extensive historical investigation has been frequently used as new design motifs and the new source of creative fashion design. Especially in the contemporary society, as multifarious forms and presentations are emphasized even in the men's fashion, it is urgently required more than ever to do thorough and extensive research for the design and structure of men's fashion. Therefore, through historical research on men's fashion, the 18th and 19th century men's coat, which is generally considered to be the most developed one in the concept and shape of 'coat,' has been reinterpreted and deconstructed to make new design for men's coat which corresponds to the trends and sensibility of contemporary fashion. In addition to this, to facilitate practical use of this new design by fashion public, the plane patterns for the actual production of these coat designs were presented.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• 제8권1호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2005

The Korean and the American consumers's attitude toward globalization were compared in the context of cultural values. This study exclusively investigated the effect of traditional versus non-traditional values and the mediating role of fashion involvement. The study sample consists of American and Korean female college students. It was affirmed that long supported categorization of individualism for Western culture and collectivism for Asian or Eastern culture does not seem to characterize the postmodern generation. No major differences between Korea and the U. S. were found in the empirical study except that Americans showed higher levels of cultural values and Koreans associate fashion involvement with global-mindedness more strongly. The impact of cultural values was similar across cultures but the mediating role of fashion involvement was dissimilar depending on the cultural backgrounds of respondents.

• 복식
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• 제62권5호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2012

In a fast changing postmodern society, contemporary fashion is becoming more complicated and ambiguous along with other genres of art than ever before. This phenomenon reigning as a sociocultural paradigm can be defined as 'indeterminacy' and it means 'undecidability'. The purpose of this study is to clarify and analyze the indeterminate characteristics of contemporary fashion reviewing the theoretical background and the architectural formativeness as a comparative research. The core idea of deconstructivism dismantles a causal relationship between function and form in fashion and the conventional notion about clothes. Complexity theory, which is the study of chaotic dynamical systems, suggests the creative idea and concept of infinite possibilities on a formative method. Meanwhile, catastrophe theory of discontinuous change can be used as interpretative strategies for the process of deconstruction and reconstruction. As a result of this study, the indeterminacy of fashion can be analyzed into five semantic categories: irregularity, immateriality, randomness, complexity and changeability. The intrinsic value of the indeterminacy in contemporary fashion is the interaction with a sociocultural ideology and a technological environment as well as an expansion of formative expression. To conclude, it can be said that the indeterminacy in fashion is a new interpretation of the relationship among body and space, clothes and society.

• 복식
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• 제52권5호
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• pp.79-89
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• 2002

We can see various cultural elements appeared in modern fashion, of which Korean traditional cultural elements are being reinterpreted in many different ways. This study is to analyse on the basis of togetherness concept Korean traditional elements, which have been considered difficult to interpret by postmodernism and find the ways how to carry on our traditional culture practically in order to prepare the foundation for globalization of our tradition. Togetherness means 'with' or 'simultaneously', which also conveys the meaning of common cause and result, addition and annex, opposition and juxtaposition, or accumulation and integration. Characteristics of the togetherness appeared in Korean fashion are as follows. First of all, it shows the aspect of mixing and integration of different cultural fashion elements around the globe, which have been made possible in the course of globalization and development of information technology. The second characteristic is crossing and synchronization, which means that many different individual fashion elements in terms of time and space are being crossed over and integrated these days. Thirdly, continuation meaning 'without cease' and 'keep going' shows that togetherness is to create a whole new fashion trend by mixing postmodern revivalism and past clothing elements. Togetherness makes it possible for us to find reasons why tradition aspects are expressed so vividly in the modern clothing, gives us a standard to classify the reasons, establishes an identity and offers theoretical background for globalization of traditional clothing in the course of modernization of our tradition.