• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.34 no.3
• /
• pp.393-400
• /
• 2010

This study examines the mordanting effect and multi functional properties of silk fabrics dyed with onion shell extracts that were mordanted with gallnut. The contents of this study are as follows. First, the optimum dyeing conditions were investigated by measuring the K/S value that depended the on dyeing conditions when silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts. Second, the color, brightness, and chroma differences that appear after mordanting with gallnut were investigated by measuring the K/S and Munsell value. Third, the color fastness and antimicrobial activity were measured. When silk fabrics were dyed with onion shell extracts, the optimum dyeing conditions were a dyeing temperature of $70^{\circ}C$, a dyeing concentration of 160%, and a dyeing of time 30min. After mordanting with gallnut extracts, the K/S value increased remarkably and was larger in pre-mordanting than post-mordanting. The H value displayed yellow-red in all cases of pre and post mordanting. However, the H value was more reddish in the order of non-mordanting

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.6 no.2
• /
• pp.1-9
• /
• 1994

In order to study the effect of mordanting on silk fabrics treated with tannin, those fabrics were treated with Al, Cu, Cr, Fe, Sn by pre and post mordanting. It was studied about color change, weighting effect, dgree of photodegradation by pre and post mordanting. The results are as fallows ; 1. On the addition of mordants into mimosa and tannic acid solution, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the former was slightly blue-shifted, on the other hand, &{\lambda}_{max}& of the latter was obviously Red-shifted. 2. In case of Cu, Cr, Pre mordanting, weighting effect were appeared. Weighting effect of silk fabrics treated with Tannic acid increased higher than mimosa by mordanting. 3. In color change, Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid generally changed to red direction and fabrics treated with tannic acid changed to yellow direction by pre and post mordanting. 4. In the photodegradation, the degree of photodegradation on mordanted fabrics increased. Its degree was slack in Cu, Cr, Post mordanting. On the other hand, Al, Fe, Sn were greate. Silk fabrics treated with Mimosa and Tannic acid got inhibiting effect on photodegradation.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.15 no.4
• /
• pp.182-189
• /
• 2011

Dyeing properties of cow leather was investigated with Tumeric powder. The effects of dyeing conditions, mordanting conditions, color change, and color fastnesses were studied. The results were as follows. The dye uptake increased as dye concentration, dyeing temperature, and bath ratio increased. In the effect of dyeing time, the highest dye uptakes showed at 20 minutes and decreased after that point. Pre mordanting was more effective than the post mordanting, and the dye uptakes improved all mordanted fabrics. The highest K/S values showed in pre-Al sample, and the lowest K/S values showed in post-Cu one. The values of Hunter on the samples were more changeable $L^*$ and $b^*$ than $a^*$, and all samples showed Yellow color in Munsell value. But the mordanting methods and mordanting agents were not significant in the color changes. The light fastness of dyed samples showed 1 grade, the dry cleaning and abrasion fastnesses did not improved except post-Fe wet sample.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.36
• /
• pp.109-119
• /
• 1998

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Caseaslpinia Sappan, L. and Brazilin were studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye up-take adn color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The most absorbance of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. solution was 445nm, Brazilin was 448nm. The color of bazilin solution was affected by pH 7~9. The optimum temperature to extract Caesalpinia Sappan, L. was 10$0^{\circ}C$ adn dyeing solution for 1 hour. In case mordants concentration, the most absorbance was 0.3%. In case mordanting test, the best and proper temperature to quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was 8$0^{\circ}C$ and the most quantities of absorbed mordants in silk was mordant treatment by Cu. Effective dyeing time to silk was 60min. Effective mordanting temperature was 8$0^{\circ}C$, and its time was 30min. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was recoginazed by mordanting treat-ment, specially Fe, Sn, Al, Cu. K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than post-mordanting. After soaping treatment K/S value of pre- and post-mordanting silk was decreased and 0.1%(W/V) quantity of mordant was sufficient for treatment. In the case of Caeaslpinia Sappan, L. fastness was increased by mordanting treatment. Mordants and mordanting treatment method affected the amount of absorption and color change of dyed silk.

• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
• /
• v.50 no.1
• /
• pp.31-45
• /
• 2022

After manufacturing the natural dyed actual size Hanji using 11 kinds of plant natural dyeing materials and 2 kinds of animal natural dyeing materials, the color characteristics and color change and color fastness after post-mordanting were compared and discussed. The hues of 13 types of natural dyed Hanji were black, PB, and RP, each with 1 type, YP with 3 types, and Y with 7 types. Among the natural dyeing materials, Chinese ink, indigo and Lac showed high color yield and color difference, and violet-root cromwell and gardenia seeds showed low color yield. The color fastness of Hanji dyed with turpentine diluted Ottchil, Pagoda tree seeds, Chinese ink and indigo was excellent, while that of gardenia seeds and violet-root cromwell were very poor. After post-mordanting of natural dyed Hanji with Al, Cu, and Fe mordants, the hue changes were show up the Alnus firma, clove, lac and cochineal. In addition, the color difference was very diverse and was overall the most biggest due to Fe mordant. After 72 hr. of UV irradiation on post-mordanting natural dyed Hanji, hue change was observed in 3 types and color fastness was improved in 8 types by post-mordanting. The Hue and color fastness are significantly different depending on the type of natural dying materials and post-mordants. Therefore, when dyeing Hanji with natural dyes, it is necessary to dye with sufficient knowledges and informations about the desired color and fastness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.33 no.2
• /
• pp.256-265
• /
• 2009

The purpose of this study is to check color change, color fastness, increase wt., antibiosis, and UV-protection efficiency depending on gallnut concentrations and mordanting methods, when silk fabrics dye with gromwell according to pH. This results will contribute in developing of natural mordant with multi function. The results are as follows. ${\lambda}_{max}$ of Gallnut extracts was near 299 nm. When gallnut was used as a mordant, at all pH levels, pre-mordanted fabrics had red color and post-mordanted ones had red-purple color which was closed to natural color of gromwell. Brightness of post-mordanted fabrics was higher than that of pre-mordanted fabrics. In the case of chroma, pre-mordanted fabrics was higher than post-mordanted fabrics. There was no significant difference of color, brightness, and chroma depending on gallnut concentration. As mordanting concentration increased, fabric weight gradually went up and increase weight reached maximum $17{\sim}19%$. At all pH levels, color fastness improved by pre-mordanting and post-mordanting, and it showed the maximum $4{\sim}5$ grade of wet fastness and 5 grade of dry cleaning. Antibiosis of silk fabric was improved by gromwell dyeing and synthetic tannin mordanting. Antibiosis of gallnut extracts was excellent. The color fastness and antibiosis were preserved after 10 cycle dry cleaning. UV-protection efficiency was excellent by dyeing with gromwell and mordanting with gallnut.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.17 no.2
• /
• pp.45-61
• /
• 2015

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by wavelength of maximum absorption, amounts of dye uptake, color difference, Hunter's value and Munsell's value. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used Al mordant agent and greenish yellow color by Fe mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by Fe mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by Al pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by Al pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.4
• /
• pp.77-86
• /
• 2016

In order to analysis on color difference of natural dyes, I have dyed Hanji, cotton, silk fabric and exposed them to carbon arc light. The results of experiment have been analysed by Munsell's value, and compared the difference of colors which were recognized visually. Gardenia Jasminoides is monogenetic dye, but it gained darker color by pre-mordanting method used aluminum mordant agent and greenish yellow color by ferric mordant agent. whereas Curcuma, an Amur cork, and bud of pagoda tree are shown as greenish yellow color, and A barberry root, Betel nut, and Rhubarb are shown as reddish yellow color. these gained khaki colored dyed fabric by ferric mordanting. In addition, Sappan wood showed great result in pre-mordanting. Especially, it gained dark red color by aluminum pre-mordanting. The pink color was shown by post-mordanting. and Logwood showed great dyeing result in Hanji and cotton better than silk. Specially pre-mordanting was effective. Hanji and cotton showed greenish blue color by aluminum pre-mordanting, and silk showed brown color. However the color, which was recognized visually, differed from colorimeter sometimes. Therefore, such color table might be necessary for the natural dyeing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.56 no.1 s.100
• /
• pp.143-149
• /
• 2006

For the purpose of standardization and practicability of natural dyeing, the mordanting and dyeing properties of Acorn Shell was studied. Appropriate extraction, dyeing and mordanting condition of Acorn Shell were determined, and the effect of mordanting method on dye uptake and color fastness of dyed fabric was investigated. The maximum absorbance of Acorn Shell solution was at 287.5nm and 294nm. The pH effect was stable in the color difference changes. The optimum temperature to extract Acorn Shell was during 1 hour in $60^{\circ}C$. The effective dyeing temperature and time of silk were $80{\sim}100^{\circ}C$, 1hour. The silk fabrics dyed with Acorn Shell appeared yellow-brown. K/S value of dyeing fabrics was increased by mordant treatment. K/S value of post-mordanting was higher than pre-mordanting. Mordanting treatment attected color change of the dyed silk. In the case of Acorn Shell light fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades by post-mordanting. Abrasion fastness of appeared more than 3-5grades. Perspiration fastness of appered more than $3{\sim}5grades$ by mordant treatment but Cu mordant treatment was $2-5{\sim}4grades$. Dry-cleaning Fastness appered more than 4 grades except Cu mordant treatment. These fastness improvement were generally effective for mordant treatment, specially Al, Sn, Cr.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.100-106
• /
• 2012

This research was carried out to find the mordant effect of Chestnut's inner skin on the cow leather dyed by Turmeric powder. The best proper mordanting conditions were examined by changing mordant method, concentration, temperature, bath ratio, time, and repetition. Also dyeability and surface color changes were evaluated by various mordanting methods. The optimum mordanting conditions of chestnut's inner skin extract on the cow leather were pre mordant, 80%, $50^{\circ}C$, 50:1, 40minutes, 4 repetition. The K/S values as a mordant were higher in pre mordant than post mordanting condition. Although the ${\Delta}E$ was slightly higher in post mordant than pre mordant, it was too small to find any means. The surface colors of all dyed cow leathers were yellow. Among light, dry cleaning, and abrasion fastnesses, only light fastness was increased one degree, others were same degrees.