• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.283-295
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• 2011

This study deals with the interchange with art that is contained in the works of Yves Saint Laurent, and it is disclosed through his works that modern fashion is part of expressive art while pursuing creative function as a work of art. The study has been performed on the basis of the references, the pictures of his works and interviews posted in domestic and overseas fashion magazines such as Vogue, Fashion News, Mode & Mode, Gap, Collections, etc. Regarding the scope of this study, it specifically deals with works he created from 1958 until 2002, when he announced his last collection. The results of the study show that with respect to Post-Impressionism, his works were greatly affected by van Gogh(who had used colors as active media in depicting his internal mental state) which gave birth to gorgeous and handicraft-like 'Couture-style clothes'. With respects to Fauvism, the works of Matisse also had an impact on Yves Saint Laurent, who added a sense of fauvism in his works through the use of colors, motif, or full reproduction of images from paintings. We see the influence of cubism upon Laurent when we examine his works of 'clothes with artistic value,' which utilized applique, beaded decoration, patchwork, embroidered patterns, relief-like ornaments, etc. using motif or objet much as we see in the works of Picasso and Braque, artists who expressed a new dimension of the formative arts. Laurent's use of neoplasticism, or plainness of painting, demonstrates a new formative art on the three-dimensional human body by using the works of Mondrian, which consist of black lines and primary colors, although generally Laurent's 'neoplastic'works differed from the works of Mondrian by more actively utilizing the lines and colors when designing dress and its ornament. In addition, the paintings and poems of surrealism artists and poets were directly used in the clothes or their images were sometimes borrowed. In order to express respect toward the spirit of surrealism and its artists, the human body motifs such as lips and eyes(which were frequently used by the surrealism artists) were applied to embroidery, printing and beaded decoration. Finally, being inspired by such Pop artists as Andy Warhol, Roy Lichtenstein and Tom Wesselman, Laurent further emphasized the aesthetic value of the popular consumer image in his own work, resulting in the wide recognition of the designs of Yves Saint Laurent as representing the new wave of the Pop Art school.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.32
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• pp.163-182
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze artistic formativeness represented in the modern fashion design materials. Nowadays the modern fashion design materials is characterized by variety. The fashion materials the most important of fashion is called a softwear in textile industry and emerged as a new field. Fashion design also escaped from the tra-ditional restraint and extended to pursue lib-eral clothes and the designer's creative inten-tion has resulted in conceptual and conven-tional alteration as a new mode of plastic ex-preseeion. As a results of analysis of the formative fea-ture of Art style represented in the modern fashion design materials. First Surrealism had been searching for a new way of confronting a social and rtistic environment that was stifling and repugnant to them. Accordingly the wide applicaytion of the various object due to the thought of Sur-realism through the modern fashion materials brought the diversification and individua-lization of the modern fashion design. Second Pop Art that is made modern mech-anic culture and commercialism brought the great transformation in the history of Art out of the existing style and the sense of ex-pression. And the plastic characteristics of Pop Art that has a gravity as modern fashion materials on a them of the elements of popular consumer's society. That is the common and cheap objects were introduced into fashion materials itself or pat-tern. Third Minimalism is a trend in art att-empting to seek essence of the object by presenting simple and disciplined expressions by minimal formative means. The features of external form are simplicity clarity unrelated composition and symmetrical structure. Mini-malism was a quest for basic elements repre-senting the fundamental esthetic values of art. The minimal expression in modern fashion materials mean fabrics with simple surface and is contained using simple geometric pattern or utilizing textiles without any patterns. Fourth Eroticism is a kind of psychological revolution in the development of human civilization and is deeply rooted in the cultural tradition of myth religion customs and art. So Eroticism must be distinguished from a mere animal reproduction. These erotic char-acteristics were holded the meanings of sexu-ality through the modern fashion materials. Especially it was expressed the sexual part of body was nakedly showed through trans-parent materials or semitransparent like metalic and opaque materials. Recently the various kinds of new materials such as paper vinyle plastic metal as well as human body were applied to new fashion de-sign. First of all the new materials will give modern fashion designers stimuli and inspi-ration. It can also express values of moderners to despise materialism and uniformed modern society and to recover humanity and self-actualization.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.4
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• pp.24-37
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• 2011

This study aims to figure out any possible expanded expression methods and diverse formative effects in fashion design by recognizing the importance of objects that suggest new paradigms as a means of expressing aesthetic consciousness in contemporary fashion and analogizing the formative characteristics of objects used in fashion and their significance. Accordingly, the study focuses on analyzing and interpreting objects introduced to fashion design with a formative view by substituting the concept of an object that has taken an important position in the contemporary arts for fashion. This study further aims to examine the concept of objects by trend and their characteristics within a syntactical structure and come up with a standard for classification of objects and a framework of analysis from cubism in the early 20th century when the concept of an object began to appear in arts to Dadaism, Surrealism, Pop art, Land art, Environmental art and the present time. Finally, the study aims to examine the status of objects in fashion and the relationships between fashion and objects through analyses on fashion objects and to suggest new perspectives and approaches to interpret the contemporary fashion in the 21st century.

• Archives of design research
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.293-302
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• 2004

The austere standard for industrial design and the machine aesthetic reinforced modernism and lasted more than a half century. Pop art and Pop design movements, which were opposite of the elite culture, began to appear as anti-modernism in the late 1950s. With the development of technology, the movements helped to establish humanism design style that reflected the life style of young generation and their culture. From the 1960s. it was a try in order to fulfill psychologically users' needs beyond tasks for physical considerations. The efforts appeared as a various appearance in different contexts. It could settle down on industrial design, based on humanism both from the physical and psychological points ol views, through anti-modernism in the 1960s, commercialism, consumerism and hi-tech in the 1970s, and postmodernism in the 1980s. The design, as a specific style in industrial design, delivers both physical and psychological satisfaction to consumers by using a mixture of human emotions with high technology. Accordingly, this study is to find out and to define the design style that was applied by human emotion and sensibility in design history from the 1960s to the 1980s. It will be underpinnings for the next research about how the design style has developed nowadays.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.10
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• pp.183-202
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• 2010

The term "philosophizing art" was coined by Arthur Danto, who tried to define new forms of art, especially Andy Warhol's pop art appeared in New York after 1960's, which could not be explained by traditional concept of "representation". As Danto said "the term 'philosophizing art' is unclear, whether art discusses philosophical issues or art is the object of philosophic discussions", it does not seem like Danto himself had a specific idea when he used this term. The background for Danto coining this term derives from the fact that the old art concept such as denotation and connotation could not fully explain phenomenalistic aspects of concept art which appeared frequently at that time. Many articles in his book "philosophizing art", in which many of his criticism are included, mainly say that art begins philosophizing by dealing with not mimesis or representation but concepts. According to his argument, the history of western art, which has been consisted of mimesis and representation, has come to end when art is about physically embodied with meaning. Of course, as Danto say so, what goes to end is not art itself, but the narrative of art. It means master narrative saying art should be shown different from nature or artificial daily product is over. Danto could not find principals of mimesis and representation which had been main logic in the western art history, when he saw Andy Warhol's Brillo Boxes at Stable Gallery, New York in 1964. Danto questioned "if we can not distinguish Brillo box's artistic aspects visually from other factory-made products, how can we distinguish art from non-art", By answering those questions, he discovered two facts which made him realize the end of Art: One is there is no special way in which works of art have to be shown or has to exist. Therefore, art history has proven that commercial boxes, trashes and files of underwear can be a work of art. The other is we have fully recognized it at the end of 20thcentury. Danto confessed that through Brillo Boxes, he realized the works of art are decided by something can not be seen by eyes, not by distinguished differences by looking at it. This thesis is trying to show personal understanding about art, philosophy and discourses surrounding them and to figure out how Dante opened a new world to art criticism by using new definitions such as 'end of art' and 'philosophizing art' which Danto used to explain inner aspects of art.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.648-662
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• 2004

These days fashion market is overflown with many brands and their identities are not so clear that the advertisement emphasizing the characteristics of the products don＇t seem to be adequate in appealing the customers. Therefore it is required that the sensible image advertisement which appeals to the customers by stimulating their feeling and sensitivity to attract customer＇s interest. At that point, VMD especially of POP advertisement that can be attract direct purchasing plays an important part to build up the accurate image of brand to consumers. Even thought today＇s individualized consumers take much interested in the fresh and original expressions, the visual expressions of fashion advertisements still focus on using photographs. The most advertisement of photograph has a limit that it shows only an immediate fraction, so it can＇t present whole image It can deliver more- imaginations and message than photograph if fashion illustration is used in advertisement. Therefore the purpose of this study was to present the application of fashion illustration for the POP advertisement Twelve pieces of fashion illustrations were produced and classified three parts according to their images and expression techniques. Paper sculpture techniques were applied for fashion image expression, for paper is easily meet daily life and ecological materials. For study procedure and contents, the concept and useful functions of fashion illustration and the concept of paper sculpture were examined as a theoretical background, and various uses and techniques of paper sculpture by analysing a number of paper sculpture art works were also studied. Also the concept, roles and functions of POP advertisement were discussed, and then the examples that the fashion illustration applied in the advertisement were analyzed through case study. The theme of my works was jean fashion brand whose brand image is significant, Twelve pieces of fashion illustrations using paper sculpture techniques were produced and various kinds of paper were used in expressing the paper sculpture technique. Each works were cut out the forms and used a pertinent light for making cubic effect shadow when displayed them. In my works Ⅰand Ⅱ, Ⅰ illustrated jeans in two images of sexy and casual, these were created slightly bigger than actual body size in order to attract consumer＇s gaze at show window or store. In my works Ⅲ, Ⅰ illustrated part or model of a jean product so that it could be used as addition to main display.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.3
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• pp.126-156
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was intended to analyze mechanical beauty of the art style represented on the second half of the 20th century fashion. From the early 20th century, when the mechanical civilization began to develop in full scale, various distinctive styles of art began to emerge by the denial of the traditional artistic style, which is said to be an inevitable consequence fo the 20th century's spirit. That is, the diversified styles of modern art, which has developed in line with the rapid growth of civilizations, experienced environmental pollution, non-humanization and un-individualization. Those phenomena became mental anguish for artists and designers, they have come to meet with changes, by their efforts to find new way. SO, the mechanical beauty is becoming a very important factor arts. Especially, the collage of the Cubism have used as art techniques of positive mechanical beauty. And in the transition from Dada to Surrealism, the objects provided an important harmony, suggesting that all things, even those achieved by chance or presented in new associations or radical dissociations, could be said to have meaning. Pop Art that expressed daily living of spending culture in the post industrial society, scaled up the induction of mass media which was much more realistic than Dada or Surrealism. According to the results of this study, the second half of the 20th century fashion has generated mechanical beauty was examined and plundered by modern art styles. The mechanical beauty of modern art was represented in the modern fashion as the positive and negative formativeness. Above all, the best way that the fashion design should take in the future, is in the search of ways how to restore humanity that was lost due to use of machine, how t develop its merits and how to harmonized with mechanical civilization.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.7
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• pp.125-163
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• 2009

The artworks of Socialist Realism of the former Soviet Union, with the beginning of the 21st century, are gaining a new attention from art collectors. One reason for this might consist in the fact that relevant art pieces exemplify the ways in which they visualize ideas on the basis of their high-profile art tradition and also in which they integrate their utopian ideals with mysticism. These aspects of the Soviet art goes far beyond the wide-spread assumption that their art, as a means of propaganda, principally represents a political allegiance to the system. With Stalin coming into power in the 1930s, the artistic trend of Socialist Realism obtained a nationwide sympathy and support from people, giving birth to a new art which essentially corresponded to the demands of the political power. An official art current of the USSR over the period from the 1930s to 1950s, Socialist Realism was in tandem with the Communist commitment to the party and popularity, symbolizing a loyalty to the cause. It was thus characterized by plainness and lucidity so that ordinary people could gain easy access to art. Its salient feature, over an entire range of art, was an optimistic pursuit of a utopian dream. Therefore, it tallied with the popular sentiment for a Communist paradise, giving form to their beliefs in human agency working at the materialist world and also to such abstract concepts as force, fitness, and beauty by adding even mythical ideals. Its main subject matter includes harvest feasts of collective farms, imaginary socialist cities, grand marches of heroic laborers and in this way it served as a propaganda for a sacred utopia of socialist totalitarianism. On the other end of the spectrum, however, rose the second camp of art, which put an emphasis on bona-fide artistic activities of plastic art and on an artist's personal expression and freedom, as opposed to the surface optimism of Socialist Realism. Central to the Russian Avant Garde art, which prized the above-mentioned values, were Malevich's Geometric Abstraction and A. Rodchenko's Constructivism. Furthermore, in the transitional era of the late 20th century and the 21st century it was recognized that film art or electronic media art, rather than traditional genre of paintings, would function as a more efficient way of propaganda. These new genres were made possible by ridiculing the stereotypes of the Russian lifestyle and also by ignoring ethical or professional dimensions of artworks. That is, they reinvented themselves into a sort of field art, seemingly degrading the quality of artworks and transforming them into artifacts or simulacres in the very sense of post-modernism. The advent of the new era brought about the formation and occupation of pop culture of the younger generations, calling into question the idea of art as the class-determined. It also increased the attention to field art, which extensively found way to modern art centers, galleries, and exhibition projects. It can be stated that this was a natural outcome of human nature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.4
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• pp.15-23
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to pave the way to improve the quality of historical clothing and textiles and to search for the advisable direction of future studies by examining and analyzing the interdisciplinary approach of historical clothing and textiles related articles published in The Korean Society of Costume. For this analysis, the data were included 124 historical clothing and textiles research articles published in The Korean Society of Costume from 1980 to 2001 March. The followings show the results of this study. 1. The five dominant interdisciplinary fields of historical clothing and textiles were Identified : anthropology, art history, pop music, archaeology, sociology 2. The interdisciplinary research has been actively approached in historical clothing and textiles. 3. The most frequently approached field of the interdisciplinary researches of historical clothing and textiles was art history 4. The period that has most variety interdisciplinary fields was the present age. The studies of future historical clothing and textiles should be approached in more diverse areas of interdisciplinary way and time periods.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.94-103
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• 2004

This study is to explore the '60s 'Retro' trend appeared in the 2003/2004 Fall ＆ Winter Pret-a-porter Collections which was held in the 4 major cities, Paris, Milan, London, New York on the February and March of the last year. It is often said that the '60s Retro trend is one of the most powerful fashion trends in the 2003/2004 season, and it really affects the modem fashion market nowadays. From this study, we can find that the '60s fashion mode certainly contains the 5 formative characteristics such as Minimal Look, Pop Art Fashion, Op Art Fashion, Space-Age Look, Femme-Enfant Style, and following these 5 characteristics of the '60s fashion mode the retrospective trend can be developed to finally create the '60s Retro Look presented in the 2003/2004 F/W Pret-a-porter Collections.