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A Study of Shilla(新羅)′s Naeoe(內衣), Danoe(短衣)

  • 권준희;조우현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.2
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    • pp.103-113
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    • 2002
  • Heungdukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance(834A.D.) is a very important written historical record because it reveals Tongil Shills's(統一新羅) costume. But among the clothing pieces that appeared in Heundukwang'(興德王) costume ordinance, classification of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) is not clear. This study focuses on the categorization of Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣). Upper garments included among costume ordinance were Pyooe(表衣), Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣), Pyooe(表衣) and aeoe(內衣) were unisex, while Danoe(短衣) was worn only by women excluding the lower class. Pyooe(表衣) is applicable to Po(袍), Naeoe(內衣) is aplicable to Yu(유). Shilla'(新羅) upper garments appearing in visual records are as follows: -With the exception of Pyooe(表衣), the length of men's upper garments were between hip and knee length. These upper garments featured V-neck and round neck styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side. -Again excluding Pyooe(表衣), women's upper garments were similar to men's upper garments having V-neck and round necklines. We know this to be true from the relics found during the excavations of Hwangsungdong and Yonggangdong, as well as from the women in the stone reliefs of Sangju. Although we know the shape of necklines. the length of upper garments remained a mystery because women of that tome tucked in their upper garments into the skirts and/or wore an over garment. However a clay doll found around Bulguksa(佛國寺) wearing a knee length garment with V-neck. The upper garment was opened in the front and was worn over another garment with same length and round neckline. At that time, The upper garments found in China and Japan. were not much different than those found in Shilla (新羅). They also included garments that were waist length, had peach-shaped necklines, or were worn over head. Shilla's(新羅) traditional upper garment was between hip and knee length, but with the introduction and influence of Chinese costume. upper garments with a length coming down to the high waist line began to appear. In addition to Chinese influence, because Shilla's(新羅) women wore the upper garment first and then the lower garment, a long upper garment was not necessary. These shorter upper garments came to be known as 'Danoe(短衣)'When we perceive clothing. we look at silhouette first and then the details. Silhouette is much determined by length and neckline or the front of the garment determines the details, So we need to attention to the basis of ancient dress classifications. These classifications were according to first length [Po(袍), Yu(유)] and then neckline [Danryoung(團領), Jingryoung(首領)]. As a result. Naeoe(內衣) and Danoe(短衣) are classified by the length. The length (內衣) was between hip and knee length while Daneoe(短衣) was waist length. Danoe(短衣) was worn by putting the bottom of it inside skirt naeoe(內衣) was worn over a skirt or plant. But both had V-neck and round neck styles, and styles with the left side of the garments folded over the right side.

Correlation between skeletal and dental changes after mandibular setback surgery-first orthodontic treatment: Cone-beam computed tomography-generated half-cephalograms

  • Rhee, Chang-Hoon;Choi, Youn-Kyung;Kim, Yong-Il;Kim, Seong-Sik;Park, Soo-Byung;Son, Woo-Sung
    • The korean journal of orthodontics
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    • v.45 no.2
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    • pp.59-65
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    • 2015
  • Objective: To investigate skeletal and dental changes after application of a mandibular setback surgery-first orthodontic treatment approach in cases of skeletal Class III malocclusion. Methods: A retrospective study of 34 patients (23 men, 11 women; mean age, $26.2{\pm}6.6years$) with skeletal Class III deformities, who underwent surgery-first orthodontic treatment, was conducted. Skeletal landmarks in the maxilla and mandible at three time points, pre-treatment (T0), immediate-postoperative (T1), and post-treatment (T2), were analyzed using cone-beam computed tomography (CBCT)-generated half-cephalograms. Results: The significant T0 to T1 mandibular changes occurred $-9.24{\pm}3.97mm$ horizontally. From T1 to T2, the mandible tended to move forward $1.22{\pm}2.02mm$, while the condylar position (Cd to Po-perpendicular plane) shifted backward, and the coronoid process (Cp to FH plane) moved vertically. Between T1 and T2, the vertical dimension changed significantly (p < 0.05). Changes in the vertical dimension were significantly correlated to T1 to T2 changes in the Cd to Po-perpendicular plane (r = -0.671, p = 0.034), and in the Cp to FH plane (r = 0.733, p = 0.016), as well as to T0 to T1 changes in the Cp to Po-perpendicular plane (r = 0.758, p = 0.011). Conclusions: Greater alterations in the vertical dimension caused larger post-treatment (T2) stage skeletal changes. Studying the mandibular position in relation to the post-surgical vertical dimension emphasized the integral importance of vertical dimension control and proximal segment management to the success of surgery-first orthodontic treatment.

A study on the change of forms the composition elements of pyeonbokpo (men's coat) excavated in the tombs of the 15th-18th century (1) - Focused on collar and seop - (15~18세기 출토복식 편복포 구성요소의 형태변화 연구 (1) - 깃과 겉섶을 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, Jung-Ae;Lee, Dong-A
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.21 no.4
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    • pp.27-42
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    • 2019
  • This paper tried a detailed approach to identify the correlation among basic elements that influenced the change of forms of the Po. To this end, the subjects were limited to the clothing from the 15th to the 18th century, which was found in the tombs of the period of Pyeonbokpo. The total number of excavated artifacts measured directly is 6 and other correctly described excavated artifacts for a total of 54 items. Per period and element, the types of collars and Seop were presented by classifying collars in 4 types, and Seop in 3 types. On the basis of the classification, the relics selected in this paper were analyzed considering the appearance, period, and rate per type of each element. The type and the change of forms of each element per period, with the focus on the appearance, were identified and the factors influencing the change of forms per element and the correlation between such factors were investigated. The representative type in the first period included dual collars, dual Seop and the representative type in the second period was characterized by a shawl collar and a dual Seop joining the pieces. The representative type in the third period was characterized by round collars and a short Seop. The elements determining the forms of Po, including collars and Seop, had a correlation to the lapse of time and had been systematically influencing each other. Furthermore, the overall change of form was caused due to the social functions as well as the supplementary function of keeping balance among the elements and accordingly, the change of forms was think characterized per period.

A Study on the Type and Formative Characteristics of Bomun (보문의 유형과 조형성 연구)

  • 이주영;장현주;도주연;장정아
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.54 no.2
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    • pp.11-23
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    • 2004
  • Bomun(Treasure Pattern), by its formative beauty and its symbol of good-luck, is mixed well with other patterns and produces another luxurious and gorgeous pattern with them. This study is to sort out Bomun patterned materials in the relics of Chosun dynasty, to classify the types of patterns according to its elements and to its arrangement, and to analyze their aesthetic characteristics in terms of fabrics, methods of putting patterns on fabrics, their usage, and symbols and aesthetics. The types of Bomun, in terms of their composition elements, are classified as Individual type, Compound Type Ⅰ, which is made with another Bomun, and Compound Type Ⅱ, which is compounded with plant patterns or with animal patterns. In terms of its arrangement, it is classified as Dense type, Sparse type, and Picturesque type, and the most popular type is the pattern of the dense type. Bomun was depicted in the fabric through a technique called Jimunbeop. It was used on both men's and women's clothing. It was mostly used in Po of men's clothing and in Jeogori(jacket) of women's clothing. Bomun connotes the meaning of good-luck, beating off evil spirits, Yin and Yang ideology, noble tastes, etc.

A survey on the actual state in kimchi in Kyung-nam(I) - The study of the preference of kimchi and actual amounts of kimchi intake - (경남지역 주민의 김치 섭취 실태조사(I) - 김치에 대한 선호도 및 섭취량조사 -)

  • Kim, Jong-Hyen;Park, Woo-Po;Kim, Jeng-Suk;Park, Jeng-Hee;Ryu, Jae-Du;Lee, Han-Gi;Song, Yeong-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.139-145
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    • 2000
  • A survey on the preference of kimchi and actual amounts of kimchi intake conducted from july to october 1999 to get basic information needed for the augmentation of kimchi intake. Total 1,241 of women and men aged $10{\sim}60$ in kyung-nam area participated in this survey. Except people aged $20{\sim}30$, all of subjects, especially in people aged 60 and over, liked fresh prepared kimchi best, and then fermented kimchi. But all of subjects disliked over fermented kimchi.(p<0.001) And women$(4.3{\pm}0.9)$ liked better fresh prepared kimchi than men$(4.2{\pm}1.0)$, men$(4.0{\pm}0.9)$ liked better fermented kimchi than women$(3.9{\pm}1.1)$.(p<0.05) In subjects aged above 40, as age grow up, the preference of fermented kimchi and over fermented kimchi grew lower. All of subjects best liked chinease cabbage kimchi, and then chonggak kimchi, kakdugi, yeulmu kimchi, dongchimi in order. And women liked better nabag kimchi, yeulmu kimchi, sesame leaf kimchi, bek kimchi, cucumber kimchi, godulppegi kimchi than men and men liked better chinease cabbage kimchi, kakdugi, dongchimi than women.(p<0.05) People aged $10{\sim}20$ and above 60 disliked chonggag kimchi. The preference of kakdugi were high in people aged $10{\sim}20$, but as age grow up, the preference of kakdugi became lower.(p<0.001) The preference of nabak kimchi and dongchimi with juice were significantly high in people aged 60 and over but people aged $10{\sim}20$ disliked. Also subjects aged $10{\sim}20$ disliked significantly yeulmu kimchi, sesame leaf kimchi, green onion kimchi, bek kimchi, cucumber kimchi, mustard leaf kimchi and godulppegi kimchi and subjects aged $20{\sim}30$ disliked significantly yeulmu kimchi, mustard leaf kimchi, godulppegi kimchi(p<0.001). But subject aged 30 and older liked all kinds of kimchi. The amounts of kimchi intake in Kyung-nam area were same level of average amount(100g) of korean intake but the amounts of kimchi intake of men$(106.4{\pm}74.0)$ were more than women$(96.9{\pm}69.5)$(p<0.05)

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Effect of Dietary Fatty Acids on Fatty Acid Composition of Platelet Phospholipids, Thromboxane B2 Formation, and Platelet Aggregation in Men (식이 지방산이 혈소판 인지질의 지방산 조성, 혈장 Thromboxane B2의 농도 및 혈소판 응집에 미치는 영향)

  • 오은주
    • Journal of Nutrition and Health
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    • v.32 no.4
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    • pp.384-393
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    • 1999
  • The degree of platelet aggregation, thromboxane B2(TXB2)formation and fatty acid composition of platelet phospholipids(PL) were investigated in 24 healthy male subjects who for five weeks consumed either corn oil(CO) rich in linoleic acid(LA), perilla oil (PO) rich in $\alpha$-linoleic acid($\alpha$-LAN), or canola oil(CNO) rich in oleic acid(OA) as a major fat source. Total fat intake was 30% of total calories and prescribed oil intake of each dietary group was 50% of the total fat intake. In the CO group, significantly decreased contents of polyunsaturated fatty acids(PUFA), n-6 PUFA, n-3 PUFA and eicosapentanoic acid(EPA) were observed, and significantly increased contents of OA and saturated fatty acids(SFA) were observed in platelet PL after 3 weeks and 5 weeks of dietary treatment. In the PO group, contents of OA and docosahexanoic acid(DHA) were increased, and the ratio of n-6/n-3 was decreased significantly in platelet PL after dietary treatment. The CNO group showed significatnlty decreased contents of PUFA, P/S ratio, n-6 PUFA, LA,(EPA+DHA)/arachidonic acid(AA), and significantly increased SFA contents after 3 weeks of the oil-based diet. The dietary-induced effects on fatty acid composition of platelet PL were observed mostly after 3 weeks of the oil-based diet. The dietary-induced effects on fatty acid composition of platelet PL were observed mostly after 3 weeks. Plasma TXB2 levels were increased after 3 and 5 weeks of dietary treatment. However, only the CO and CNO groups showed significantly increased plasma TXB2 levles after 3 and 5 weeks of dietary treatment. However, only the CO and CNO groups showed significantly increased plasma TXB2 levels after 5 weeks of experimental diets, when compared with initial values. Degree of platelet aggregation increased only in the CO group after dietary treatment. As a result, at week 5 the degree of platelet aggregation of the CO group was significantly higher than those of the PO and CNO groups. Among the three oil-based diets, the PO-based diet seems to have beneficial effects on atherosclerosis by influencing plasma TXB2 levels and the degree of platelet aggregation, while the CO-based diet showed the most adverse effects. Our results imply that plasma TXB2 levels might be affected by dietary fatty acid composition.

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The Preference of University Student for Contemporary folk Hanbok - Centered on Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po - (대학생(大學生)의 생활한복(生活韓服)에 대(對)한 선호도(選好度)에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 서울과 광주(光州), 목포(木浦)를 중심(中心)으로 -)

  • Park, Mi-Ryung
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.3 no.1
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    • pp.93-103
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    • 1999
  • This study is intended to propose the new design course on Contemporary folk Hanbok by researching their preference to Contemporary folk Hanbok. To do so, the definition of styles, preference in details and fitness for the occasion to wear Contemporary folk Hanbok were evaluated and analyzed. The collected materials were investigated in quality and content. As for the data, five Contemporary folk Hanbok brands, in the city were selected and twenty styles from catalog were extracted. The subjected of study were 219 university students living in Seoul and Kwang-ju, Mok-po. they answered the questionnaires, the results of study were following: 1) In style of Contemporary folk Hanbok, there were positive support on longer Jeogori than traditional one and a seamless one-piece skirt at the length of ankle. But they had the negative thought of various spapes shapes related to the styles of Contemporary folk Hanbok. 2) In a view point of coloring on women's Contemporary folk Hanbok, the student supported the saturation more than special preference to similarity or contrast harmony. Students liked the harmony of achromatic colors or same colors up and down which are not traditional 3) In men's Contemporary folk Hanbok, students were for the harmony of same colors in up and down, preferring wool/polyester to cotton or silk100% (traditional materials) in materials 4) It indicates that what students thought generally of the occasional appropriateness of Contemporary folk Hanbok didn't match with the choice of proper occasion on preferred style. The western clothes have difference in design, material, color and manners of co-ordination related to ordinary cloths and out wear, but Contemporary folk Hanbok don't have these difference. Therefore, it is needed to develop the expensive designs discriminated between ordinary clothes and out wear in design, material, color and co-ordination corresponding to the every day life style.

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Shrouding Practices and Clothing Style in Daejeon around the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 found in Excavated Clothes of the Region (출토복식을 통해 본 임란전후 대전지역의 염습제도와 의생활 양식)

  • Kwon, Young-Suk;Lee, Joo-Young
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.8 no.3
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    • pp.275-285
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    • 2006
  • With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.

A Survey on the actual state in kimchi in Kyung-nam(II) - The study of the notion and preference of kimchi products for sale - (경남지역 주민의 김치 섭취 실태조사(II) - 판매용 김치에 대한 선호도 및 의식조사 -)

  • Kim, Jong-Hyen;Park, Woo-Po;Kim, Jeng-Suk;Park, Jeng-Hee;Ryu, Jae-Du;Lee, Han-Gi;Song, Yeong-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
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    • v.15 no.2
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    • pp.147-153
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    • 2000
  • A survey on the preferences and notion about kimchi and kimchi products was conducted from july to october, 1999 to investigate basic information for increasing the consumption of kimchi for sale. 1,241 subjects of women and men aged 10 to 60 in Kyung-nam area participated in this survey. Most of the subjects made kimchi by themselves at home but this rate of making kimchi at home became lower than past, so increment of consumption of kimchi for sale will be expected in the future. When the people buy kimchi, they considered taste first, and then hygiene, nutrition in order. When they purchase kimchi, more men (69.1%) than women(56%) considered taste, but more women(36.1%) than men(20.6%) considered hygiene first. Subjects aged 30 or older groups considered more the hygiene of kimchi than the subjects of $10{\sim}20$ age groups did.(p<0.05) And people of household income over 3 million wons considered more hygiene than people of below 1 million wons income group did. People liked manufactured kimchi the packed with whole or partly transparent material in order to observe the contents.(p<0.05) They liked better kimchi packed with bottle(46.1%) and vinyl(39.6%) than plastic(14.3%) and this tendency was more in the subjects of women(49.8%) and over 30 age groups.(p<0.05) They prefered $200{\sim}500g$ packing unit of kimchi whether the family size were big or small. Among the processed kimchi products, men liked better a rice covered up with kimchi, a pot stew with kimchi or a soup with kimchi, On the other hand, women liked better a dumplings with kimchi, a grilled food with kimchi, a pizza with kimchi.(p<0.05) Subjects aged 10 to 20 years old liked all kinds of kimchi products, but people aged 40 or older disliked them.(p<0.001)

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Excavated costume from the tomb of Choi Kyung Sun (1561~1622) (최경선(1561~1622) 묘 출토복식 연구)

  • Song, Mi Kyung;Jin, Deok Soon;Kim, Jin Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.66 no.5
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    • pp.149-162
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    • 2016
  • This study examines the costume artifacts discovered in the burial site of Choi Kyung Sun(1561~1622), which was moved from Gangwon in Gangrung Province. About 30 artifacts, including costumes, were recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave. The collection of men's coats discovered in the grave consisted of a Dallyeong (Official's robe), Jing-nyeong(Man's coat), Jungchi-mak(Man's coat), Cheolrik(Man's coat), Chang-ui(Man's coat), Gwang-su-ju-ui(Man's coat), and Do-po(Man's coat). Han-sam(Undershirts), Jeo-go-ri(Jacket), and trousers were also recovered, along with several items made of textiles, such as the cloth used to shroud and wrap the body. The costume artifacts recovered from Choi Kyung Sun's grave have several characteristics that distinguish them from other early 17th-century costume artifacts. Firstly, the body had a hairband made from horsehair. Secondly, the men's trousers were of the type worn before the Japanese Invasion(1592~1597). Thirdly, the style of the coats' sleeves, when compared with artifacts from other regions, was from an earlier era. Through these costume artifacts, it can be inferred that people who lived in the Gangwon Province, which was far away from Seoul, continuously wore outfits from before the Japanese Invasion, and trends spread slowly.