• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2004.03a
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• pp.119-125
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• 2004

Unsteady nonlinear wave motions on the free surface over a plane beach of constant slope are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Also, the free surface which consists of markers or segments is determined every time step with the satisfaction of kinematic and dynamic free surface conditions. Moreover, marker-density method is also adopted to allow plunging jets impinging on the free surface. The second-order Stokes wave theory and solitary wave theory are employed for the generation of waves on the inflow boundary. For the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, the computations are carried out with the plane beach of constant slope in surf zone. The results are compared with each other. The marker-density method is better then the hybrid method. Also they are compared with other existing experimental results. The Agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.163-173
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• 2018

There are many issues in fluid structure interactions when dealing with the free surface flows in a sloshing tank. For example the problem of how yielding a highly nonlinear wave with a simple forced motion over a short duration is of concern here. Nonlinear waves are generated in a rectangular tank which is forced horizontally; its motion consists of a single cycle of oscillation. One of the objectives is to end up with a shape of the free surface yielding a wide range of critical flows by tuning few parameters. The configuration that is studied here concerns a plunging breaker accompanied with a critical jet where great kinematics are simulated. The numerical simulations are performed with a twodimensional code which solves the fully nonlinear free surface boundary conditions in Potential Theory.

• The Bulletin of The Korean Astronomical Society
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• v.44 no.2
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• pp.49.1-49.1
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• 2019

I present the mean metallicity distribution of stars in the Milky Way based on photometry from the Sloan Digital Sky Survey. I utilize an empirically calibrated set of stellar isochrones developed in previous work to estimate the metallicities of individual stars to a precision of 0.2 dex for reasonably bright stars across the survey area. I also obtain more precise metallicity estimates using priors from the Gaia parallaxes for relatively nearby stars. Close to the Galactic mid-plane (|Z| < 2 kpc), a mean metallicity map reveals deviations from the mirror symmetry between the northern and southern hemispheres, displaying wave-like oscillations. The observed metallicity asymmetry structure is almost parallel to the Galactic mid-plane, and coincides with the previously known asymmetry in the stellar number density distribution. This result reinforces the previous notion of the plane-parallel vertical waves propagating through the disk, which have been excited by a massive halo substructure such as the Sagittarius dwarf galaxy plunging through the Milky Way's disk. This work provides evidence that the Gaia phase-space spiral may continue out to |Z| ~ 1.5 kpc.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.139-146
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• 2011

The breaking wave pressure occurs when a plunging breaker instantaneously impinges on structural surface, and appears differently depending on whether or not to form air pockets at the instant of contact. The Wagner type normally forms a single pressure peak at the contact spot due to the direct collision of water volume to the structure whereas in the Bagnold type the time lagged oscillation of the air pocket causes pressure peaks even at areas away from the spot. In the present study, the Bagnold's impact pressure is numerically and experimentally investigated for the bulkhead of an underwater tunnel under construction which is subjected to nearby breaking waves. A numerical solver of Navier-Stokes equations was applied to reproduce the breaking waves near a bulkhead, and the results showed the Bagnold's impact pressure occurring on the back (land side) face of the bulkhead. The existence of the impact pressure was also verified by a hydraulic model testing, and it was found that the experimental results well conformed to their numerical counterparts.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.317-322
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• 2003

The Sectional and Spatial failure modes are discussed using the experimental data with long crest wave and multi-directional waves considering the failure modes occurring around the rubble-mound breakwater. The spatial & sectional stability and failure mode around the rubble-mound structures with construction progress can be summarized as follows: 1) The rubble mound structures at basic construction step was occurred serious failures when ${\xi}$ was about 6.5. 2) It was clarified that the failure modes at the round head of detached breakwater are classified as failure by plunging breaking on the slope, failure by direct incident wave force and failure by scouring at the toe of the detached break water. 3) The failure mode was found in the lower wave height than the design wave by the breaker depth effect. 4) The failure on the slope were also developed at the lee side of the round head because diffracted wave propagated into the behind area by grouping effect of multi-directional irregular wave.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.7-17
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• 2002

Recently, artificial rocks, instead of buoys, have been placed on the submerged breakwater to indicate its location. The accurate estimation of wave forces on these rocks is deemed necessary for their stability design. Characteristics of the wave force, however, are expected . to be very complicated because of the occurrence of breaking or post-breaking waves. In this regard, wave forces exerted on an artificial rock have been investigated in this paper. The maximum wave force has been found to strongly dependent on the location and shape of the artificial rock that is placed on the submerged breakwater. The plunging breaker occurs near the loading cram edge of a submerged breakwater, which cause impulsive breaking wave force on the rock. Using the Morison equation, with the velocity and acceleration at the front face of the artificial rock and varying water surface level, it is possible to estimate wave forces, even impulsive breaking wave forces, that are acting on the rock installed on a submerged breakwater. The vertical wave force is also found to depend, significantly, on the buoyant force.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.42 no.6 s.144
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• pp.559-565
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• 2005

As the wave impinges on and overtops the structure, a large highly aerated region is created in front of the structure and water splashs on top of the structure. The broken wave in front of the structure and associated green water on top of the structure are highly aerated containing not only a large number of bubbles but also very large sizes of bubbles. In this paper, the velocity field of the highly aerated region and the splashing water on the top is measured using a modified PIV method incorporating the traditional PIV method with the shadowgraphy technigue by correlating the ' texture ' of the bubble images. The velocity fields of a plunging wave impacting on a structure in a two-dimensional wave flume is measured. It is found that the maximum fluid particle velocity in flout of the structure during the impinging process is about 1.5 times the phase speed of the wave, while the maximum horizontal velocity above the top is less than the phase speed, It is also found that the dam breaking solution does not work well in predicting the green water velocity.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.87-94
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• 1999

The Morison's formula has been commonly used in the determination of wave forces of sinusoidal waves acting on coastal or ocean structures of pile-supported type. In the case that plunging breakers are incident, the structures are subjected to impulsive breaking wave forces which are normally much larger than the Morison's. However, the impulsive breaking wave forces act in a very short time, and hence a dynamic structural analysis should be done to determine whether or not to include the forces in the design force items. In the present study, numerical methods for calculating the dynamic response of a vertically located cylindrical pile are developed. Static and dynamic displacements are then compared through several example analyses varying the structural properties of pile.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.37 no.2
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• pp.333-342
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• 2017

In order to understand the mechanism of the cross-shore evolution of storm (barred) and normal (nonbarred) profiles of a sandy beach, the vertically two-dimensional laboratory experiment was performed with a movable bed. The beach profiles and free surface motion were measured under monochromatic wave conditions evolving the storm and normal beach profiles. The observation was conducted in the surf zone during the alternation of the two wave conditions to reach its quasi-equilibrium state. The sandbar-crest and trough and the steep berm were evolved due to the plunging breakers in the storm case, and the bar-trough was decayed due to the spilling breakers in the normal case. From the measurements, it was found that the storm wave case was in an erosion state and the normal wave case was in an accretion state. The strong undertow, which is a dominant factor of the offshore migration mechanism, was developed in the storm wave case, and the weak undertow was developed in the normal wave case. The skewness and the asymmetry of the nonlinear wave motion, which is a dominant factor of the onshore migration mechanism, was measured similarly in both cases.

• 한국전산유체공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 2011.05a
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• pp.395-406
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• 2011

In this research a numerical simulation method is developed for moving body in free surface flows using fixed staggered rectangular grid system. The non-linear free surface near the body is defined by marker-density method. The body boundary is defined by line segment connecting the points where the body surface and grid line meet. Continuity equation and Navier-Stokes equations are used as governing equations and the equations are coupled with two-step projection method. The velocities and pressures of body boundary and free surface cells are calculated with simultaneous iterative method. To treat a body movement in a fixed grid system, the volume displaced by moving body is added to the divergence of the body boundary cell. For the verification of the present numerical method. vortex shedding period of advancing cylinder is calculated and the period is compared with existing experiment results. Moreover, added mass and damping coefficients of a vertically excited box are calculated and the computed results are compared with published experiment results. Impulsive pressure and water level variation due to sloshing phenomenon are simulated and the results are compared with published experiment results. Varying the plunger shape, the waves generated by plunging type wave maker are compared with the 2nd order Stokes wave theory The plunger shape generating the wave that shows the best agreement with the theory is represented.