• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.178-186
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• 1992

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves are performed by superposition of different wave frequencies, faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain location. Large spilling and plunging breaking waves are generated near the expected breaking location. Wave steepness in spilling and plunging breakers significantly increases as the breaking point is approached and then decreases after breaking. Larger growth rate of the wave steepness in vigorous plunging breaking is observed. The fundamental wave frequencies in a wave group are dominant through the wave evolution, even in an intense plunging breaking event.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.157-163
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• 1994

An experimental study of deep-water breaking waves is performed by nonlinear wave evolution as well as superposition of different wave frequencies. Two-dimensional and three-dimensional wave instabilities and breakings are observed in nonlinear wave evolution. The wave energy evolves with almost the same initial wave energy before breaking but decreases significantly after breaking process. Large spilling and plunging waves are generated near e expected breaking location by means of faster waves overtaking slow waves at a certain point. More energy loss in vigorous plunging breakers is observed through breaking process.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.37-43
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• 1996

Breaking waves were generated in a 2-D flume. A piston-type wavemaker was operated in accordance with signals which consist of elementary harmonics with appropriate phase differences. These phase differences were estimated by using a linear wave theory so that wave crests were to be concentrated at the same position. The stroke of wavemaker was controlled to create plunging-type breaking waves. The signal with small amplitude could not generate breaking waves. In the case of moderate amplitudes, various breaking waves could be obtained. Most of breaking waves were spilling type. Only when the wavemaker was operated with appropriate amplitude, plunging-type breaking waves were generated. The parameters of breaking waves are the wave steepness and the frequency bandwidth. If the central frequency was low, breaking waves were not generated. Based on experimental data, we found that the wave height of breaking inception was H = 0.0113 gT$^2$. We also made computations by using a mixed Euler-Lagrangian scheme under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical results show good agreements with tank measurements.

• Journal of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

In this paper, breaking waves are generated in a 2-D wave tank and simulated by using a higher-order boundary element method. A piston-type wavemaker is operated by signals composed of elementary waves. The phase of elementary waves is determined by the linear theory such that they are focused to a prescribed position. Calculated plunging waves coincide well with experiment. A steel box with different plate thicknesses is installed at a predetermined position in the tank. Measured impulsive pressures due to breaking waves are found to be 0.8-1.2$\rho$C2, where $\rho$ corresponds to water density and C to wave celerity. The transverse displacement of the plate is described in terms of modal eigenfunctions. The natural frequencies measured by impact tests in air for thin plate coincide with the computational and theoretical values. The radiationpotential due to plate vibration is derived and the radiation force is expressed in terms of hydroelastic added mass and damping forces. Comparison of natural frequencies of plate in water proves that hydroelastic added mass and damping are properly considered. The measured strain due to regular waves supports the calculated one, but there are apparent discrepancies between theory and experiment in the impulsive case.

• International Journal of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering
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• v.9 no.4
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• pp.439-445
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• 2017

Plunging breaker slamming pressures on vertical or sloping sea dikes are one of the most severe and dangerous loads that sea dike structures can suffer. Many studies have investigated the impact forces caused by breaking waves for maritime structures including sea dikes and most predictions of the breaker forces are based on empirical or semi-empirical formulae calibrated from laboratory experiments. However, the wave breaking mechanism is complex and more research efforts are still needed to improve the accuracy in predicting breaker forces. This study proposes a semi-empirical formula, which is based on impulse-momentum relation, to calculate the slamming pressure due to plunging wave breaking on a sloping sea dike. Compared with some measured slamming pressure data in two literature, the calculation results by the new formula show reasonable agreements. Also, by analysing probability distribution function of wave heights, the proposed formula can be converted into a probabilistic expression form for convenience only.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.25 no.4
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• pp.181-190
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• 2013

In this study, a total of 51 cases of hydraulic model tests has been conducted for various wave conditions and slope angles of breakwater to develop a stability formula for Rakuna-IV armoring a rubble-mound breakwater. The stability number of the formula is expressed as a function of relative damage, number of waves, structural slope, and surf similarity parameter. The stability formula is derived separately for plunging and surging waves, the greater of which is used. The transitional surf similarity parameter from plunging waves to surging waves is also presented. Lastly, to explain the stability of Rakuna-IV to the engineers who are familiar with the stability coefficient in the Hudson formula, the required weight of Rakuna-IV is calculated for varying significant wave height for typical plunging and surging wave conditions, which is then compared with those of the Hudson formula using several different stability coefficients.

• International Journal of Aeronautical and Space Sciences
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• v.14 no.3
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• pp.201-209
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• 2013

Much numerical and experimental research has been done for the flow around an oscillating airfoil. The main research topics are vortex shedding, dynamic stall phenomenon, MAV's lift and thrust generation. Until now, researches mainly have been concentrated on analyzing the wake flow for the variation of frequency and amplitude at a low angle of attack. In this study, wake structures and acoustic wave propagation characteristics were studied for a plunging airfoil at high angle of attack. The governing equations are the Navier-Stokes equation with LES turbulence model. OHOC (Optimized High-Order Compact) scheme and 4th order Runge-Kutta method were used. The Mach number is 0.3, the Reynolds number is, and the angle of attack is from $20^{\circ}$ to $50^{\circ}$. The plunging frequency and the amplitude are from 0.05 to 0.15, and from 0.1 to 0.2, respectively. Due to the high resolution numerical method, wake vortex shedding and pressure wave propagation process, as well as the propagation characteristics of acoustic waves can be simulated. The results of frequency analysis show that the flow has the mixed characteristics of the forced plunging frequency and the vortex shedding frequency at high angle of attack.

• Journal of the Institute of Convergence Signal Processing
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• v.22 no.3
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• pp.122-127
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• 2021

Flow features near the ship bow such as wave breaking, small scale phenomena have been studied using numerical methods. In this study, the bow shaped wedge was adopted which is from previous paper [1, 2] and the conditions of simulation were Re = 1.64 × 10⁵) and Fr = 2.93. Star CCM+, one of the commercial CFD programs has been used for the simulations. Simulation results such as wave profiles near the ship bow, shape of plunging jet, air entrainment, and wave breaking process have been compared with previous experimental and numerical studies. Overall results showed good agreements with previous studies. Profiles of bow waves showed that overturning jet has been created and broken along the wedge. Plunging wave breaking has been observed along the wedge and four components of plunging wave breaking process were shown. It is confirmed that velocity near the overturing jet significantly increased during plunging wave breaking.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.439-459
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• 2022

This paper describes experimental studies of impact pressure generated by breaking regular waves in shallow water on a vertical cylinder. Experimental work was carried out in a shallow water flume using a 1:30 - scale model of a vertical rigid circular hollow cylinder with a diameter 0.2 m. This represents a monopile for shallow water offshore wind turbines, subjected to depth induced breaking regular waves of frequencies of 0.8 Hz. The experimental setup included a 1 in 10 sloping bed followed by horizontal bed with a constant 0.8 m water depth. To determine the breaking characteristics, plunging breaking waves were generated. Free surface elevations were recorded at different locations between the wave paddle to the cylinder. Wave impact pressures on the cylinder at a number of elevations along its height were measured under breaking regular waves. The depth-induced wave breaking characteristics, impact pressures, and wave run-up during impact for various cylinder locations are presented and discussed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.198-203
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• 2003

Unsteady two-dimensional nonlinear waves which are generated by the numerical wavemaker of plunging type are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Marker-density function method is adopted for the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, and the computations are carried out with various wave amplitudes and two section shapes of wavemaker. The computation results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results, and the agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.