• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.7-17
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• 2002

Recently, artificial rocks, instead of buoys, have been placed on the submerged breakwater to indicate its location. The accurate estimation of wave forces on these rocks is deemed necessary for their stability design. Characteristics of the wave force, however, are expected . to be very complicated because of the occurrence of breaking or post-breaking waves. In this regard, wave forces exerted on an artificial rock have been investigated in this paper. The maximum wave force has been found to strongly dependent on the location and shape of the artificial rock that is placed on the submerged breakwater. The plunging breaker occurs near the loading cram edge of a submerged breakwater, which cause impulsive breaking wave force on the rock. Using the Morison equation, with the velocity and acceleration at the front face of the artificial rock and varying water surface level, it is possible to estimate wave forces, even impulsive breaking wave forces, that are acting on the rock installed on a submerged breakwater. The vertical wave force is also found to depend, significantly, on the buoyant force.

• Journal of Theoretical and Applied Mechanics
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 1996

In this paper, breaking waves are generated in a 2-D wave tank and simulated by using a higher-order boundary element method. A piston-type wavemaker is operated by signals composed of elementary waves. The phase of elementary waves is determined by the linear theory such that they are focused to a prescribed position. Calculated plunging waves coincide well with experiment. A steel box with different plate thicknesses is installed at a predetermined position in the tank. Measured impulsive pressures due to breaking waves are found to be 0.8-1.2$\rho$C2, where $\rho$ corresponds to water density and C to wave celerity. The transverse displacement of the plate is described in terms of modal eigenfunctions. The natural frequencies measured by impact tests in air for thin plate coincide with the computational and theoretical values. The radiationpotential due to plate vibration is derived and the radiation force is expressed in terms of hydroelastic added mass and damping forces. Comparison of natural frequencies of plate in water proves that hydroelastic added mass and damping are properly considered. The measured strain due to regular waves supports the calculated one, but there are apparent discrepancies between theory and experiment in the impulsive case.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.606-613
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• 2007

This study investigates the behavior of a plunging wave and its associated runup and overtopping through velocity measurements and suggests an empirical formula for overtopping velocities on a structure. The plunging wave breaking in front of the structure generates very bubbly flow fields. For measurements of the two phase flow field of the breaking wave, particle image velocimetry and a modified optical method were employed. The obtained velocity fields were discussed in respect of the process of wave impinging, runup and overtopping. The overtopping velocity distribution is found to have a nonlinear profile showing a maximum magnitude at its front part. The relationship of self-similarity among dimensionless parameters is observed and used to obtain the regression formula to depict the overtopping velocity.

• Journal of the Society of Naval Architects of Korea
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• v.42 no.6 s.144
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• pp.559-565
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• 2005

As the wave impinges on and overtops the structure, a large highly aerated region is created in front of the structure and water splashs on top of the structure. The broken wave in front of the structure and associated green water on top of the structure are highly aerated containing not only a large number of bubbles but also very large sizes of bubbles. In this paper, the velocity field of the highly aerated region and the splashing water on the top is measured using a modified PIV method incorporating the traditional PIV method with the shadowgraphy technigue by correlating the ' texture ' of the bubble images. The velocity fields of a plunging wave impacting on a structure in a two-dimensional wave flume is measured. It is found that the maximum fluid particle velocity in flout of the structure during the impinging process is about 1.5 times the phase speed of the wave, while the maximum horizontal velocity above the top is less than the phase speed, It is also found that the dam breaking solution does not work well in predicting the green water velocity.

• Journal of Advanced Marine Engineering and Technology
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• v.33 no.6
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• pp.873-879
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• 2009

The steady breakers at an infant stage are investigated through the numerical simulation. The appearing condition and characteristics of the sub-breaking waves are reviewed by analysing bow waves. The instability analysis is possibly done through the relationship between the free-surface curvature and circumferential force, which is obtained from the momentum equations. Navier-Stokes equations are solved by a finite difference method where the body-fitted coordinate system, the wall function and the advanced mesh system are invoked. The numerical result shows that the gradient of M/$U_s$ is greatly influenced by the Froude number and the decrease of M/$U_s$ indicates that the flows are unstable. Additionally flows with plunging or spilling are simulated successfully, but the application of breakers to the severely broken wave still remains to be settled in the future.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.81-96
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• 2007

Nonlinear shoaling characteristics over surf zone are numerically investigated based on spatially averaged NavierStokes equation. We also test the validity of gradient model for turbulent stresses due to wave breaking using the data acquainted during SUPERTANK LABORATORY DATA COLLECTION PROJECT(Krauss et al., 1992). It turns out that the characteristics length scale of breaking induced current is not negligible, which firmly stands against ever popular gradient model, ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ model, but favors Large Eddy Simulation with finer grid. Based on these observations, we model the residual stress of spatially averaged NavierStokes equation after Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky(Meneveau et al., 1996). We numerically integrate newly proposed wave equations using SPH with Gaussian kernel function. Severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particle, queuing splash after landing of water particle on the free surface and wave finger due to structured vortex on rear side of wave crest(Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002) are successfully duplicated in the numerical simulation of wave propagation over uniform slope beach, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.11 no.2
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• pp.87-94
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• 1999

The Morison's formula has been commonly used in the determination of wave forces of sinusoidal waves acting on coastal or ocean structures of pile-supported type. In the case that plunging breakers are incident, the structures are subjected to impulsive breaking wave forces which are normally much larger than the Morison's. However, the impulsive breaking wave forces act in a very short time, and hence a dynamic structural analysis should be done to determine whether or not to include the forces in the design force items. In the present study, numerical methods for calculating the dynamic response of a vertically located cylindrical pile are developed. Static and dynamic displacements are then compared through several example analyses varying the structural properties of pile.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.95-109
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• 2008

We numerically analyzed the nonlinear shoaling, a plunging breaker and its accompanying energetic suspension of sediment at a bed, and a redistribution of suspended sediments by a down rush of preceding waves and the following plunger using SPH with a Gaussian kernel function, Lagrangian Dynamic Smagorinsky model (LDS), Van Rijn's pick up function. In that process, we came to the conclusion that the conventional model for the tractive force at a bottom like a quadratic law can not accurately describe the rapidly accelerating flow over a swash zone, and propose new methodology to accurately estimate the bottom tractive force. Using newly proposed wave model in this study, we can successfully duplicate severely deformed water surface profile, free falling water particles, a queuing splash after the landing of water particles on the free surface and a wave finger due to the structured vortex on a rear side of wave crest (Narayanaswamy and Dalrymple, 2002), a circulation of suspended sediments over a swash zone, net transfer of sediments clouds suspended over a swash zone toward the offshore, which so far have been regarded very difficult features to mimic in the computational fluid mechanics.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.198-203
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• 2003

Unsteady two-dimensional nonlinear waves which are generated by the numerical wavemaker of plunging type are numerically simulated using a finite difference method in rectangular grid system. Two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations and the continuity equation are used for the computations. Irregular leg lengths and stars are employed near the boundaries of body and free surface to satisfy the boundary conditions. Marker-density function method is adopted for the simulation of wave breaking phenomena, and the computations are carried out with various wave amplitudes and two section shapes of wavemaker. The computation results are compared with other existing computational and experimental results, and the agreement between the experimental data and the computation results is good.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.2
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• pp.139-146
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• 2011

The breaking wave pressure occurs when a plunging breaker instantaneously impinges on structural surface, and appears differently depending on whether or not to form air pockets at the instant of contact. The Wagner type normally forms a single pressure peak at the contact spot due to the direct collision of water volume to the structure whereas in the Bagnold type the time lagged oscillation of the air pocket causes pressure peaks even at areas away from the spot. In the present study, the Bagnold's impact pressure is numerically and experimentally investigated for the bulkhead of an underwater tunnel under construction which is subjected to nearby breaking waves. A numerical solver of Navier-Stokes equations was applied to reproduce the breaking waves near a bulkhead, and the results showed the Bagnold's impact pressure occurring on the back (land side) face of the bulkhead. The existence of the impact pressure was also verified by a hydraulic model testing, and it was found that the experimental results well conformed to their numerical counterparts.