• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권3호
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• pp.405-416
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• 2006

We, in this thesis, examined the similarities and differences of bat patterns in China and Korea, along with a consideration of how two peoples understood bats and how their understanding of bats developed and also influenced the bat patterns. As for research period, the Ming(明) dynasty and the Qing(淸) dynasty in China and the Chosun dynasty in Korea were considered. The subjects of this study included clothes, personal ornaments, and embroidery. This research was done by comparing and analyzing the similarities and differences of two countries' bat patterns. The results of comparing and analyzing Chinese and Korean bat patterns were as follows: In terms of similarity, people of two countries understood bat patterns as the symbol of happiness. Therefore, they were used in clothes, personal ornaments, and daily necessities. In terms of difference, bat patterns of two countries had different shapes. In China, colorful and realistic single bat patterns were shown as intensive composition, whereas in Korea plain and simple bat patterns were used. These differences resulted from different way of understanding of bat patterns. It can be concluded that the bat patterns can be a great cultural commodity with high commercial values, if the traditional pattern is used as a unique element of the Oriental designs and altered and developed to attract consumers' attention.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권6호
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• pp.1023-1035
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• 2008

This study conducted a survey to find out dermatitis patients' preferred garment performance and their sentiment in spring/summer knitwears. SPSS 12.0 program was used for factor analysis, frequency analysis, T-test, ANOVA, and Duncan test. The result was as follows; First, in garments, patients required 'health hygiene', 'practicality in use care', 'skin contact' and 'easy movement'. Especially, 'skin contact' is an important property to be considered in patients' clothes. Second, in garment sensitivity, patients importantly considered 'modesty', 'feminine', 'boldness', 'decency', 'easy movement', 'youth', and 'simplicity'. Third, patients preferred simple and modest plain knitwear in light color with thin and soft fabric such as plain knit. And especially, dot pattern in knitwears should be avoided. Fourth, the preferred style of patients was that 'appropriately fit with suitable ease.' They also preferred 'front closed,' ; 'boat neckline' and 'V neckline'; 'raglan sleeve' and 'set-in sleeve'. For hem trim, they preferred 'rib'. Male preferred simple and plain style with round collar of 'tubular trim' and 'rib trim', while female preferred sophisticated and characteristic style with setin sleeve.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제8권2호
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.3-13
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• 1999

This study was performed for purpose of getting fundamental information requisite to wear velvet clothes that is more comfortable for the human body and also the environment. It was carried out in a human wearing test and thermal manikin test at the same time in a controlled-condition chamber. The experimental environment had a ambient temperature of 15$\pm$0.5$^{\circ}C$ with the relative humidity at 5$^{\circ}C$$\pm$5% and with air velocity at less that than 0.2m/sec. Velvet differ from common plain weaves in thermal properties because it's constructed in two parts one is ground part and the other part is pile part. In order to investigate the thermal resistance of velvet eight different combination of 4 velvet kinds and 2 lings kinds as experimental clothes. [(4 velvet kinds : Acetate cuprammoium Rayon Cotton Wool) (2 lining kinds : acetate viscose rayon)longrightarrow8 combination: Aa, Av, Ra, Rv, Ca, Cv, Wa, Wv: the simplified character] The results of this study can be summarized as follows : 1. For the regional thermal resistance the differences in eight clothes as well as differences in each part were significant. As a whole the breast part showed the highest thermal resistance and the leg part was higher than the shank part. The rank of the total thermal resistance was put at Wa>Wv>Ca>Cv>Aa>Av>Ra>Rv in this order. 2. Considered clothing microclimate microclimate temperature has a similar tendency to the total thermal resistance. It showed a significance in the differences of eight clothes and each parts. the belly part was highest in every combination. On the other hand for clothing humidity there was a significance between back and breast part only in the human wearing test. 3. It was indicated that CLO value was highly positively correlated with the clothings' weight and showed a high negative correlation with the air permeability.

• 대한인간공학회지
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.29-40
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• 1991

This study deals with a quantitative analysis of the effects of colors on learning effectiveness. First, sensuous or emotional factors that school children feel about colors of teachers' clothes are measured by SD method and analyzed by factor analysis. Second, sensuous or emotional factors to enhance learning effectiveness are measured by SD method from teachers, and principal factors are extracted by factor analysis. Finally, the analysis of interaction between the effects of colors and the learning effectiveness is done using the sensuous or emotional factors found from the previous two analyses. The results are as follows: (1) For in-class concentration, the principal factors are "stable", and "near" feelings. The colors related to these feelings are black, red, and blue. (2) For question inducing, the first principal factors are "soft" and "stable" feelings, and the colors are white and black. The second principal factors are "gentle" and "refined" feelings, and the colors are orange and black. (3) For extra-curricular activity, the principal factors are "artless" and "plain" feelings, and the color is blue.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권10호
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• pp.1390-1400
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to categorize the type of fabrics and to analyze weaving method on the silk fabrics from ewongun's Tomb. The conclusions of this research are as follow. 1) Among the 26pieces of excavated clothes,98% of them were made of silk fabric and among them 84% used high-quality non-patterned silk I would assume, therefore, that the tomb was owned by a person who had a dignified yet humble tagte of higher society. 2) The weaving methods of textiles are plain weave, twil1 weave, satin weave. Plain weave includes spun silk tabby, fine filament silk tabby, raw silk tabby, thine silk tabby, damask on tabby, twill weave includes twill damask with different directions, satin weave includes non-patterned satin damask,5-end satin damask(4/1 warp faces ground, l/4 wok faced pattern). As the result of literature survey, I settled the names of textiles as follows; tabby was called Myunju, Saeju, Saengcho, and Sookcho according to the kind and density of silk threads used; Damask on tabby was ca]led Hwamunju) Twill damask was called Hwmunnung Satin damask was ca]led Hwamundan if they bear patterns by themselves or Mumundan if they don't have any patterns on them.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.769-780
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• 2004

This study aims to measure stretch rate of standard weight in the direction of the knit stitch course by the difference in the way of weaving rib stitch, the most elastic stitch of all the knit stitches and to apply features of rib stitch to the knit pattern. The reviewer examined the sample knit for test with 100% wool, 2/48's 2, 12 gauge, and then made knit patterns and sample clothes for test considering stretch rate of standard weight of 10gf, l5gf, 20gf, 25gf based on the results from the former test, and finally estimated the try-outs for sample clothes. This study came out with the following results. From the functional estimate of knit patterns made by standard stretch rate of each stitch, the l5gf weight sample clothes of 0×0 and 1×1 rib stitches looking similar to plain stitch. For the bust, B/4-1.0㎝ knit pattern was made of 0×0 stitch, B/4-1.2㎝ of 1×1 rib stitch. In conclusion, because rib stitch has the much higher stretch rate in the direction of the course than other stitches, low stretch rate of standard weight should be applied to the case of making knit wear. It is expected that this will lead stable sizing and measurement system when used in making knit patterns, and satisfy knit wearers' various needs.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제2권1호
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• pp.97-112
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to make basic data for the activation of saenghwal Hanbok industry through the survey on the present condition of saenghwal Hanbok works. Data were collected and analyzed from 124 works. The results were as follows: (1) Most works was small scale. Most works solo it 5,000,000 won and less per month, and was 20 pyung and less. (2) In 75 works the material used saenghwal Hanbok was cotton and hemp cloth, and in 53 worked. (3) Most works varied in design and materials mainly, preserved the traditional line, and preferred the active and practical design. (4) Saenghwal Hanbok wore it for plain clothes in the thirties and forties.

• 복식
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• 제30권
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• pp.295-306
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• 1996

A large quantity of exhumed clothing found for recent 20 years has becom-e the material for making a concrete clarification of the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty. Exhumed clothing means the clothing found in the coffin when the grave of the ancestor buried several hundred several hundred years ago is removed to another pla-ce and it is almost comprised of ordinary clothes of the grave-owner not mourning clothes as well as clothing and ornaments in the period between the 15th cen-tury and th 19th century. This research is intended to inquire into the kind of chimas in the 16th century before the Imjin Japancese Invasion of Korea during 1592-1598. The after effect of the Imjin Japanese In-vasion was generally reflected in clothing them and the structure of clothing in the Chosun dynasty began to overshadew its di-chotomy with the Imjin Japanese I vasion of Korea as the point. Accordingly this research is concerned with the study of the chima system of the early Chosun dynasty which shows that there is a common point of the identical form though clothing was exhumed in different graves. Therefore it was possible to grasp women's clothing that was fashionable at that time The object for research is the women in the upper class of the 16th century whose representative characteristics are depicted as follows: 1. Women in the upper class wore the splendid clothing similar to the ordinary clothing of court ladies. 2. The division of ordinary chima and ceremonial chima appeared in the concrete. 3. Ceremonial chima had its extra width and length and exhibited its exaggerated silhouette. in particular it had a various forms of over-pleats made at its center front which play a role in supplementing discomfort in walking. This associate bustle and crinolin styles through which the modern design of clothing can be glimpsed. 4. The opposite phenomenon was shown that has been perceived up to now such as folding at the right plain seam the treatment of the edge-and the like. 5. The elaboration of manual needlework shows the culmination of women's workmanship.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.13-26
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to analyze the preference of design and body shape for korean baby-boom generation women. For this study, in-depth interviews were carried out to 11 women who were born in 1955~1963. They are called korean baby-boom generation. The results were as follows; 1) Korean baby-boom generation women care to their body shape, and they make much of the balance of body, not just looking slim. 2) Korean baby-boom generation women become more interested in their clothing, and they want to look with casual image than elegant image before. But overweight women preferred elegant image. 3) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer mix-match style for everyday clothes, but they prefer suit-set for formal wear. 4) When Korean baby-boom generation women choose of jacket or coat color, they consider more of their body-shape than season color. 5) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer plain style and jacquard with metal yarn. 6) Korean baby-boom generation women prefer out-door cloth fabric, at special time, they choose pure wool and pure silk. At ordinary time, they like more comfortable fabric like cotton mixed spandex or wool mixed spandex blends.