• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.205-205
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• 2022

본 연구에서는 심해 선형파 조건에서 수중 투과성 방파제 주변의 유속장에 대해 nonhomogeneous Riemann-Hilbert problem을 이용한 해석해 및 수치해를 도출하고, 이를 반사계수와 투과계수를 산정하는 데에 활용한다. 여러 개의 얇은 투과성 판이 일렬로 배열되어 수중에 고정되어있고 규칙파가 작용하는 경우, Riemann-Hilbert problem을 정의할 수 있다. 본 연구에서는 얇은 판으로 이루어진 수중 방파제에 대한 homogeneous Riemann-Hilbert problem을 푸는 것을 넘어, 투과성 판으로 이루어진 수중 방파제에 대해 nonhomogeneous Riemann-Hilbert problem을 정의하고, 이에 대해 무한경계조건과 판 근처에서의 유속장 경계조건을 이용해 해석해를 유도하였다. 투과성 방파제의 경우 permeable boundary를 가지므로 제시한 상황은 기하학적 비선형성을 지닌다. 이에 대해 투수성을 기초로 미소 매개변수를 정의하고, 섭동법(perturbation method)을 이용해 유속장에 대한 leading order solution과 first order solution을 도출하였다. Leading order solution은 Evans (1970) 등의 선행연구에서 제시한 해와의 비교를 통해 그 타당성을 검증하였고, First order solution을 이용해 반사계수와 투과계수를 산정하여 방파제의 투수성이 유속장에 미치는 영향을 고려하였다. 아울러 수치해를 도출하여 해석해의 결과와 비교 및 분석하였다. 본 연구에서 제시한 해석해는 방파제에 가해지는 힘을 산정하는 등 다양한 방향으로 활용 가능하며, 향후 수치해나 실험값을 비교, 검증하기 위한 기초 자료로써 활용될 수 있다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.166-179
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• 2018

This study aims at numerically investigating the water-surface characteristics such as wave height distribution depending on the current direction around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters in wave-current coexisting field which has not been considered in detail so far. In addition, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy, which act as the main external forces of formation of salient, are also examined. For numerical analysis, olaFlow which is open source code of CFD was used and the numerical tests included different types of target waves, both regular waves and irregular waves. Numerical results indicated that wave height variation with wave following or opposing a current behind the submerged breakwater is closely related to turbulent kinetic energy. Furthermore, it was found that weaker longshore currents are formed under wave-current coexisting field compared to the non-current conditions, and transport flow is attenuated. As a result, it was possible to understand the influence of current existence and direction (following and opposing) on the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.153-165
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• 2018

In this study, the performance of irregular wave field generation of olaFlow is first verified by comparing the frequency spectrum of the generated waves by the wave-source using olaFlow and the target wave. Based on the wave performance of irregular waves of olaFlow, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters, which act as the main external forces of the salient formation, are numerically investigated. The numerical results show that as the gap width between breakwaters decreases, the wave height in the center of the gap increases and as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.32 no.2
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• pp.122-134
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• 2020

On the many coasts of South Korea, including the eastern side, it has been recently increasing the coastal disaster such as the severe coastal erosion and road damage swept away by the wave. As one of the alternatives to prevent the coastal disaster, it has been widely studied the coastal disaster reduction method by the Low-Crested Structure (LCS) in the many countries including several European countries. In this study, the olaFLow model is used to simulate the permeable LCS and wave field of the LCS through the three-dimensional irregular waves numerical analysis on the basis of the previous research. From the numerical analysis, it is evaluated the H_rms, nearshore current and time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy. In addition, the pattern of nearshore current and spatial distribution of time-averaged turbulent kinetic energy are compared with the case of submerged breakwater under the irregular wave fields. As one of significant results, it is confirmed that the pattern of nearshore current is different with the case of submerged breakwater.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.26 no.5B
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• pp.563-572
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• 2006

In designing the coastal structures, the accurate estimation of wave forces on them is very important. Recently, the empirical formulae such as Goda formula are widely used to estimate wave forces, as well as 2-D hydraulic and numerical model tests. But, sometimes, these estimation methods mentioned above seem to be unreasonable to predict 3-D structure of wave pressure on the coastal structures with 3-D plane arrangement in the real coastal area. Especially, in case of consideration of phase difference at harbor and seaward sides of the large-sized coastal structures like a composite breakwater, it is easily expected that the real wave pressures on each section of coastal structure have 3-D distribution. A new numerical model of 3-D Large Eddy Simulation, which is applicable to permeable structure, is developed to clarify the 3-D structure of wave pressures acting on coastal structure. The calculated wave forces on 3-D structure installed on the submerged breakwater show in good agreement with the measured values. In this study, the composite breakwater is adopted as a representative structure among the large-sized coastal structures and the 3-D structure of wave pressures on it is discussed in relation to the phase difference at harbor and seaward sides of it due to wave diffraction and transmitted wave through rubble mound.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.28 no.6
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• pp.332-349
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• 2016

OLAFOAM is the powerful CFD code and is an expanded version of $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$, for wave mechanics simulation. The $OpenFOAM^{(R)}$ does provide many solvers to correspond to each object of the numerical calculation in a variety of fields. OLAFOAM's governing equation bases on VARANS (Volume-Averaged Reynolds-Averaged Navier-Stokes) equation, and the finite volume method is applied to numerical techniques. The program is coded in C++ and run on the Linux operating system. First of all, in this study, OLAFOAM was validated for 1) wave transformation inside porous structure under bore and regular wave conditions, 2) wave transformation by submerged breakwater under regular wave condition, and 3) regular wave transformation and resultant vertical velocity distribution under current by comparison with existing laboratory measurements. Hereafter, this study, which is almost no examination carried out until now, analyzed closely variation characteristics of water surface level, wave height, frequency spectrum, breaking waves, averaged velocity and turbulent kinetic energy around porous submerged breakwater in the wave and current coexisting field for the case of permeable or impermeable rear beach. It was revealed that the wave height fluctuation according to current direction(following or opposing) was closely related to the turbulent kinetic energy, and others.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.23 no.1
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• pp.79-92
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• 2011

In this study, wave pressure of short-period gravity waves and tsunami acting on the upright section of the horizontal-slit type caisson placed on the impermeable or permeable seabed, which is a well-known permeable breakwater with a good wave controlling ability, are investigated via numerical simulations. Further, the permeable seabed was modeled as the porous media with porosity of 0.4. Using the numerical results, the effects of the seabed conditions on the wave pressure on the front wall and inside wall of the chamber have been studied. In the numerical simulations, short-period gravity waves and tsunami(solitary wave or bore) with the same amplitude to the gravity wave are considered. A numerical wave tank is used, which is able to consider a gas-liquid two-phase flow in the same calculation zone. Numerical results show that the wave pressure of the tsunami was 3~5 times higher than the short-period gravity waves acting on the front wall and it was 2~4 times higher than the short-period gravity waves acting on the inner wall.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
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• v.28 no.1B
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• pp.115-123
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• 2008

In the present study, a three dimensional hydrodynamic characteristics around the fully submerged dual breakwaters with a sand beach has been investigated numerically using a 3-D numerical scheme, which can determine the eddy viscosity with LES turbulence model and is able to consider wave-structure-seabed interaction in 3-dimensional wave field (LES-WASS-3D), recently developed by Hur and Lee (2007). Based on the numerical experiments, strong vortices can be generated fore and aft edges of the structures, and propagate lee sides. Thus relatively large circulation flows are occurred around submerged breakwaters. The 3-D flow hydrodynamic characteristics have been examined by mean flows and mean vortices for various x-y, x-z sections and y-z layers. Wave height distribution and wave set-up around and over submerged breakwaters, and breaking point migration toward shore side is discussed in detail.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.31 no.3
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• pp.180-198
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• 2019

In recent years, countries like Europe and Japan have been involved in many researches on the Low-Crested Structure (LCS) which is the method to protect beach erosion and it is regarded as an alternative to the submerged breakwaters, and compiled its results and released the design manual. In the past, studies on LCS have focused on two-dimensional wave transmission and calculating required weight of armor units, and these were mainly examined and discussed based on experiments. In this study, three-dimensional numerical analysis is performed on permeable LCS. The open-source CFD code olaFlow based on the Navier-Stokes momentum equations is applied to the numerical analysis, which is a strongly nonlinear analysis method that enables breaking and turbulence analysis. As a result, the distribution characteristics of the LCS such as water level, water flow, and turbulent kinetic energy were examined and discussed, then they were carefully compared and examined in the case of submerged breakwaters. The study results indicate that there is a difference between the flow patterns of longshore current near the shoreline, the spatial distribution of longshore and on-offshore directions of mean turbulent kinetic energy in case of submerged breakwaters and LCS. It is predicted that the difference in these results leads to the difference in sand movement.