• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.118-132
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• 2010

The purpose of the research is to develop a systematic model to interpret makeup signs through a case analysis of makeup shown in Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear collections from 2001 to 2010 and to prove an importance of makeup as a communication medium to deliver social and cultural values. This research employed Panofsky's Iconology theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) pre-iconographical description, (2) iconographical analysis, and (3) iconological interpretation. Alexander McQueen's makeup was analyzed with the three steps in order. As a result of the pre-iconographical description step, makeup styles (icons) in his collections are identified which are Egyptian style, Gothic style, Androgynous style, Victorian style, Fantasia style, and Futuristic variant style. The iconographical analysis step identified that the elements used in his makeup are inspired by his identity and life. In the final step of iconological interpretation, the researcher concluded that Alexander McQueen's makeup expresses social, cultural, and aesthetical value of the time period when the collection was created. His makeup shows postmodernism that accepts a diversity of views (the pluralism) and humanism, romantic narcissism that is his personality trait, and avant-garde that pursues a new, creative aesthetics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.1
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• pp.60-76
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to present the viewpoint on the 'clothes' as a part of art works which has the kunstwollen(artistic will) and the philosophy of a creator rather than just an outfit. For the literary research, this study investigates the history of Iconology and the E. Panofsky's theory. In order to make up for the limitation of Panofsky's iconology, applies the theories of H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. For the case research, Vivienne Westwood is selected because her fashion works have been mentioned as the artistic pieces by many fashion critics or the presses. Also Westwood has different social and cultural contexts which based on the periodic background, social influences and cultural actualities. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, in order to read the symbolic meaning, the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness of the fashion designer's works properly, the systematized interpretation method is necessary. Second, the creative works of Vivienne Westwood have been influenced by the various external elements. Especially her national background and identity are the main elements which have governed her creation. Third, Vivienne Westwood creates her works not just to wear but to incorporate the ideology and the philosophy of herself. She expresses the kunstwollen and the aesthetic consciousness through her works. Forth, Vivienne Westwood pursues the communication between the human being and the world. Fifth, fashion makes various attempts to combine with different artistic fields. The 21st century fashion has developed to new direction with diverse trials and combinations. Fashion is not just making clothes, but accepting and delivering the history and culture, expressing and communicating empathy, and combining the different fields harmoniously.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.9
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• pp.76-87
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• 2007

Since the emergence of postmodernism, as interest in human has increased, human face image is being highlighted as one of the themes that are addressed the most. Making the images of faces and individuals shown in costumes the subject matter, this thesis examines the internal values immanent in the images in more depth and understands them based on the Panofsky's iconological interpretation scheme. This study aims to identify designer's purposes and even their unconscious intention through iconological interpretation of faces shown in the fashion and images shown in human image, and further to present basic materials in the fashion design. This research used literature reviews and case studies, and used Panofsky's iconological interpretation theory as the scheme in order to interpret the symbolic significance implied in the images. The images of faces and individuals shown in costumes were classified into six types through historical reviews, and based on the types the images of faces and individuals shown in the fashion since the 20th century were examined. The iconological analysis of the images of faces and individuals shown in costumes based on the classification of types according to historical reviews showed parodies, cultural identity, commercial use, eroticism, respect for heros and its fiction. This study has found that all such things finally return to humanism that humans should be valued and loved the most.