• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.4
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• pp.727-739
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• 2021

The purpose of this study is to present the objective evaluation semantic scale of avant-garde design. Apparel majors were asked to express associative vocabulary, design development, and final design intentions for the avant-garde, and the final 70 copies were used for analysis. The results found the item style was shown often in the order of dress, coat, and combination of shirt and pants. In order, the silhouettes appeared as atypical, complex, square, and triangular; the decorations appeared as feathers, frills, and round sculptures; and the idea method appeared as extreme, association, and removal method. In examining the relations of associative words and idea designs, the dress had relations with associative words such as 'peculiar,' 'futuristic,' 'fancy,' 'Comme des Garcons,' and 'deconstruction.' As for the relationship between the idea design and the expression image vocabulary, it was found that 'one piece' recalled 'huge,' 'volume,' 'abundant,' 'peculiar,' and 'unknown,' while 'coat' recalled 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' and 'padding.' In conducting the word cloud technique, the overall design showed the central keywords were 'huge,' 'big silhouette,' 'unbalance,' 'feather,' 'structural,' 'unknown,' and 'frill,' in order.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.933-945
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• 1995

The purpose of this study is to examine the current foreign languages of clothing terms which have been misused, clarify the meanings and suggest the unified teams. The results are as follows. First, English and Japanese are great parts of the origins of the clothing terms in foreign languges which have been misused. And next, there were French, German, Portuguese and Spanish via English and Japanese. Especially, the misused foreign languages in styles, materials of clothing are also via English and Japanese. The compound words in Japanese are many parts of them and misused Japanese, Japanese via English, French, German, Dutch, Spanish, Poltuguese, and some terms can not be found their origin. (ex: 색채, 컬러, 카라) In case of the colors of clothing, the terms have the English marking rules and the Japanese pronounciation. And some unified terms are Korean, English, and Chinese letters. (ex: 빨강, 레드, 적색) There are lots of the misused foreign lagusges in sewing terms. On each case, the corresponding words in English and Japanese were suggested to understand easily. The most of the unified words were suggested in Korean. (ex: 하찌사시 $\rightarrow$ 하자시; padding stitch, 팔자뜨기) In clothing construction, there were lots of the misused terms in Japanese and the corrupted terms of Japanese. And so the explains and the unified terms were suggested. (ex: 구세토리, 몸새맞춤, 나찌, 가위집 (내기)) Finally, the origins of terms in western history of costume were clarified and analyzed the meanings : $\circled1$robe, $\circled2$ jacket, gipon, pourpoint, doublet, justaucorps, habit, flock(coat), cutaway, swallow tail coat, 배광, lounge suit, $\circled3$ coat Robe is the gown style garment which was used by men and women from the Middle ages, the jacket is a short, coat-like garment and coat is a long outer garment. Each origin is different, however the 'jacket' and the 'coat' were used confusely in the middle of 19th century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.1-16
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• 2003

Nowadays, retro to the past fashion is appeared just as often as new challenge and trial. The style of Renaissance Era is the most often revival theme for contemporary fashion. So, this study was focused on 16C of Renaissance costume. It is investigated the characteristics of Renaissance costume through referring the literature to be able to restore the past costume as through as possible with the object of building database for developing new design. This study is done in two different ways at the same time, direct study to restore and indirect study to refer. Direct one is of the past costume as thoroughas possible based on referring to the originals. The other is referring the costume historical literature The costumes to restore is chosen among 16C famous pictures on the basis of how much they can show the typical chracteristics of 16C costume. Materials including textiles and ornaments which are necessarily to restore were shopped in Dongdeamoon Market. Some materials had a problem to get exactly the same one in Seoul on 21C. After visiting imes, the materials is chosen as similar as originals. Three sets of costume were restored on the basis of referring "Pattern of Fashion" written by Janet Arnold. The costumes were restored by reinforcing bodice based on the size of waist and in every three works. The way of sewing is based on hand sewing for details and machin-sewing for seam. Quilting intl lining is uwed giving the fabric stiffness to maintain the form from the heavy padding. Also the part of piles on margins is used darts instead of gather, because of reducing bulkiness of seam. General closing methods are hook and eyes, and lacing with points.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.59-71
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• 2008

The purpose of this thesis is to analyse the style, color, and items of '06-07 F/W women's street fashion in Dalian. The cultural, racial and geographical uniqueness, asks for the analysis, based on the individual local area on the part of Korean fashion company desiring to launch into China fashion market. I would contribute to the understanding the preference of fashion in northeastern area, thereby, affording a fundamental resources for designing strategies for Korean fashion brands in China. The period of investigation is about 15 weeks from 23 Sep. 2006 until 6 Jan. 2007, with combined use of camcorder and digital camera. The site was Victory Shopping Plaza, in center of City, also with Mycal, Ansung, Dasang department store situated in the Economic Development Zone. Finally, 900 photos were selected for analysing. The result of this study are as follows: 1. Preferred clothing styles are jean casual 45.4%(409), sports casual 16.3%(147), character casual 8%(72), feminine 20.6%(185), Classic 9.7%(87). Compare to the former study about Spring, Sports casual showed dominant rate about 36.0% in casual style. In Winter, however, the preference were changed from sport casual to jean casual. 2. Preferred clothing items are parka/padding coat 32.3%(291), jumper 31%(279), T-shirts 16%(144) and jacket 7.5%(67) for tops, pants 91.8%(826) and skirts 8.2%(74) for bottoms. In the pants, straight pants 78.4%(648), bell bottom pants 10.9%(90), capri pants 7.4%(61), cargo pants 2.9%(24), bermuda pants 0.4%(3) were listed respectively. In the skirts, A-line skirt 51.3%(38), pleats skirt 25.7%(19), flare skirt 12.2%(9), semi-tight skirt 8.1%(6), tight skirt 2.7%(2) were listed. Finally the skirt length midi 75.7%(56), mini 18.9%(14) and maxi 5.4%(4) were listed. 3. Preferred colors are red 21.8%(196), white 21.6%(194), black 16.4%(148), yellow 10.0%(90), beige 9.3%(84), green 7.9(71) and blue 6.3%(57) for tops, and black 40.8%(367), blue 37.7%(339), gray 4.6%(41), white 4.3%(39) etc. for bottoms.