• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.543-562
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• 2024

This study used persimmon juice, shuliang, and mud to develop the color of hanji fabrics. Persimmon juice and shuliang were used to perform single and mixing dyeing with heat treatment using the pad-dry-cure (PDC) method. Next, mud dyeing was performed, and the hanji fabrics dyed with persimmon juice and shuliang were developed into Yellow Red (YR) Munsell colors with very low values and chroma. Through scanning electron microscopy, the persimmon juice and shuliang were observed to be evenly treated on the hanji fabrics using the PDC method. Furthermore, the presence of iron ions in the dyed fabrics was confirmed using inductively coupled plasma-mass spectrometry analysis. The stiffness of the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was the greatest, while it gradually decreased for the fabrics treated with mixing and mud dyeing. With mixing dyeing, the colorfastness to washing improved to grade 4, whereas with mud dyeing, the colorfastness to alkaline sweat greatly improved to grade 4~4-5. Based on these findings, this study confirmed that it is possible to develop hanji fabrics with differentiated textures and colors while ensuring practical colorfastness through mixing and mud dyeing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.509-514
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• 2019

Cotton fabrics were treated with gelatin to enhance dyeability and color strength when using Caesalpinia sappan dye. Gelatin was used as the protein and a pad-dry- cure method was used for the treatment process (2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14g/l concentration). Pretreated fabrics were mordanted with 10% alum. Fabrics were then dyed with freeze-dried sappan wood water extract powder form. Dyed samples were assessed in regards to dyeing behavior and color fastness. Comparing untreated and gelatin treated samples from the SEM images indicated that the Gelatin treatment (10g/l) resulted in an enhanced surface roughness that was relative to that of untreated cotton. Padding cotton with gelatin at 6g/l concentration afforded dyed fabrics with a 2 times increase in the K/S value over that of untreated fabrics. All dyed samples were red color with a significant enhancement in the sample color strength (K/S) being observed for pretreated samples. pH values favor dye absorption with pH 7 yielding the highest color strength. Dyeing at an elevated temperature resulted in a lower color strength and reddish-dull color. Longer dyeing times created greater color strengths for untreated and gelatin treated cotton. Increased dye concentrations resulted in higher K/S values for both gelatin treated and untreated cotton. As for color fastness, gelatin treated and untreated cotton fabrics dyed with sappan wood extract showed a relatively low rating in washing fastness (color change 1 rating), light fastness (1 rating), and rubbing fastness (wet:1-2, dry:3-4 rating).

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.525-534
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• 1998

Cotton fabrics were finished with mixture of BTCA(1,2,3,4,-butanetetracarboxylic acid) and polyalkyleneoxide-modified amino-functional silicone by pad-dry-cure process to achieve better DP performance with a higher retention of physical properties as compared to those of finished with BTCA alone. The results indicated that BTCA improved the wrinkle recovery but reduced significantly the tensile and tear strength of the treated fabrics. Whereas silicone imparted a lower wrinkle recovery, a lower loss of tensile strength than BTCA, in addition improved considerably the tear strength owing to reduction in inter-fiber and/or inter-yarn frictional forces. The concentration and curing temperature needed to enhance physical properties were as follows; for BTCA treatments 6%, at 18$0^{\circ}C$, for silicone treatments 1% at 14$0^{\circ}C$. This optimum concentration of silicone was observed by using the mixture of BTCA and silicone. The wrinkle recovery and DP rating of cotton fabrics treated with mixture of 4% BTCA and 1% silicone at a curing temperature of 17$0^{\circ}C$ was similar to those of treated with 6% BTCA at a curing temperature of 18$0^{\circ}C$, and other performance properties observed were; an increase in tensile strength, extension, toughness, abrasion resistance and moisture regain due to the reduction of BTCA concentration and curing temperature, futhermore an improvement in bending and surface properties due to the lubricating effect of silicone. On the other hand 1% aqueous silicone solution showed the lowest surface tension. Such nonionic surface activity resulted in a more uniform and rapid deposition of BTCA on the fiber or fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.11 no.3 s.25
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• pp.57-65
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• 1987

The purpose of this study was to investigate the optimum treatment [condition for the Durable press finish of viscose rayon fabrics. Three types of commercial N-methylol crosslinking agents were applied to the fabric utilizing the pad-dry-cure technique. Changes in physical properties were evaluated for the various resin and catalyst concentrations. For DMU, the effect of different catalysts, $MgCl_2$ and $NH_4Cl$, were also compared. DMU treated fabrics showed in crease recovery angle, tensile strength and tearing strength but drastic decrease in abrasion resistance. DMDHEU and MDMDHEU treated fabrics were similar in most physical properties. However, DMDHEU treated fabrics were better in crease recovery angle and stiffness, and MDMDHEU treated fabrics were better in tensile strength, tearing strength and abrasion resistance. For a given resin system, crease recovery angle, tensile strength and stiffness increased with a increase in resin concentration. Tearing strength showed very little change, while abrasion resistance was decreased significantly as the crease recovery angle was increased. For the treatment of DMU, $MgCl_2$ catalyst was much better than $NH_4Cl$ in all physical properties. When $NH_4Cl$ catalyst was used, strength reduction and discoloration were observed. As the catalyst concentration increased, crease recovery angle, stiffness were increased. Tensile strength and tearing strength were increcased than control but at high catalyst concentration, the strength were decreased and abrasion resistance was significantly lowered. DMDHEU and MDMDHEU were more sensitive to catalyst concentrations than DMU.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.25-34
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• 1996

Diphenyl ethanolamidophosphate(DPEAD) was synthesized for the purpose of developing a new flame retardant for cotton fabric. As the intermediate material was used diphenyl chlorophosphate(DPCP) and it was synthesized by using phosphorus oxychloride and phenol as the starting materials. The final product DPEAP was obtained by the reaction of DPCP and ethanolamine. The flame retardancy of cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP through pad-dry-cure(PDC) process was examined at various conditions. The physical property change of the DPEAP treated cotton fabrics were investigated by examining the drape stiffness, the wrinkle recovery, and the tensile strength. The results are summarized as follows: (1) DPEAP has shown excellent flame retardancy on cotton fabrics in comparison to other flame retardants for cotton fabrics available commercially. (2) The optimal condition for PDC process found was that the curing temperature was 16$0^{\circ}C$, the DPEAP concentration was 10%, the catalyst $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration was 7.0%, and the fixing agent hexamethylol melamine (HMM)/DPEAP weight ratio was 1/8. (3) The wrinkle recovery of the processed fabrics increased with increasing DPEAP concentration. (4) The drape stiffness of the cotton fabrics treated by DPEAP have shown essentially no change until increasing DPEAP concentration to 15 %, however DPEAP concentration exceeds 20% the drape stiffness increased drastically with increasing DPEAP concentration. When DPEAP concentration is kept constant the drape stiffness increased with increasing $({NH_{4})_{2}HPO_{4}$ concentration and HMM/DPEAP weight ratio. (5) The tensile strength of the processed fabrics was lower than that of untreated fabrics, but the tensile strength retention increased with increasing DPEAP concentration.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.244-251
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• 2016

Viscose rayon filament fabrics have been called 'artificial silk' and beloved as summer clothing materials for a long time in Korea. This is because the viscose rayon filament fabrics reveals glossy surface and cool touch feeling compared to other conventional fabrics composed of staple fibers. Therefore, we tried to prepare the higher value added viscose rayon filament fabrics for summer textile products. In this study, we applied gallnut extract to the viscose rayon filament fabric to develop summer fabrics with natural color and multi-functions such as antibacterial and antioxidant properties. This process also pursue eco-friendly and multi-functional fabric finishing from the natural material "gallnut". In addition, various pre-treatment with cationizer, chitosan, or chito-oligomer was applied to the finishing process to improve the finishing efficacy and durability. Consequently, it was found that the active component of gallnut extract was successfully incorporated to the viscose rayon filament fabric through a pad-dry-cure process. And, the treated viscose rayon filament fabrics showed excellent antibacterial and antioxidant properties. Therefore, it was expected that the rayon filament fabrics treated by gallnut extract could be used as effective summer fabrics preventing the growth of bacteria and skin ageing as well as providing cool touch feeling. However, the pre-treatments were not that meaningful on the functionalities but effective on coloring.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.577-586
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• 1993

Pesticide protective clothing has not been frequently worn due to its lack of thermal comfort. It is important to develop fabrics which can allow the wearer to work in comfort. One of the possible way to achieve the goal is to produce fabrics with a water- and oil-repellent finish which would resist pesticide penetration but maintain some breathability. The purpose of this study were to evaluate the pesticide barrier properties of untreated and water- and oil-repellent finished nonwoven fabrics. Three types of nonwoven fabrics(Tyvek, Sontara and Kimlon) were used as test specimens. By pad-dry-cure method, each of the specimen was treated with fluorocarbon. The pesticide barrier properties (amount of pesticide penetration and residue) were measured by the gas chromatography. The performance properties of untreated and treated specimens were evaluated with respects to water pepellency(KS K 0590), oil repellency(AATCC 118), water resistance(KS K 0591, AATCC 42), water vapor transmission (KS A 1013) and air permeability(KS K 0570). The results of this study were as follows : 1) The untreated Sontara showed much more amount of pesticide penetration than untreated Tyvek and Kimlon, while the treated Sontara showed little amount of pesticide penetration. 2) After laundering, the amount of pesticide residue in the untreated and treated Sontara was less than that in Tyvek and in Kimlon. 3) Water- and oil-repellent finish improved water repellency, oil repellency, and water resistance of specimens. 4) The untreated Sontara and Kimlon showed higher water vapor transmission and air permeability than untreated Tyvek. Water vapor transmission and air permeability of treated specimen decreased compared to those of untreated.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.103-112
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• 1998

Cotton fabric was treated with chitosan by pad-dry(-cure) method to impart antimicrobial properties. Four chitosans of different degree of deacetylation (DAC: 65~95%) with similar molecular weight(MW: ca. 50, 000) and one chitosan oligomer(MW 1, 800, DAC 86%) were used. In order to improve the durability to laundering of antimicrobial activity for the fabrics treated with chitosan oligomer, crosslinker or binder was included in the finishing formulation. Antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus aureus and Proteus vulgaris was evaluated by the Shake Flask Method. The treated fabrics were laundered up to 20 times according to AATCC Test Method 60-1986 or JIS 0217-104 and antimicrobial activity of the laundered fabrics was evaluated. The antimicrobial activity was increased with the increase of concentration and degree of deacetylation of chitosan. And the cured fabrics showed better durability to laundering than the not-cured fabrics according to AATCC Test Method 60-1986. Crosslinker and binder decreased antimicrobial according of the fabrics treated with chitosan oligomer and were not effective to improve the durability to laundering according to JIS 0217-104. (Korean J Human Ecology 1(1) : 103~112, 1998)

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.3 s.151
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• pp.481-486
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• 2006

There are attempts to utilize Hanji for apparel material, but, the reason that the strength and durability of Hanji decrease to a great extent in the wet condition, restricts the usability of Hanji. In order to improve the resistance against water, Hanji was treated with silicone type water repellent agents. The treatment was carried out by conventional pad-dry-cure method. The optimum treatment condition was obtained by varying the concentration of repellent agent, curing temperature and time. Water repellency was tested by spray rating method. Wet and dry tensile strength, tearing resistance and abrasion resistance were examined after the treatment. Flexural stiffness and wrinkle recovery angles of hanji were also measured. In result, the optimum condition of treatment was at resin concentration of 40g/l, catalyst concentration of 20g/l(half of resin concentration), curing temperature of 160$^{circ}C$, curing time of 120 sec. Flexural stiffness of Hanji was hardly increased and wrinkle recovery angle of Hanji was improved a little by resin treatment. After the treatment, in dry condition, tensile strength and tearing resistance were little changed but abrasion resistance was improved. In wet condition, tensile strength, tearing strength and abrasion resistance were improved.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.2
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• pp.350-361
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• 1996

The objectives of this study mere 1) to investigate whether the different nonwoven fabric types influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pesticide protective pants, 2) to detect whether the different finishes treated to the nonwoven fabrics influenced on the objective and subjective wear performances of the experimental pants, and 3) to detect the relationships between objective wear performances and subjective wear sensation. Three types of nonwoven fabrics (T (Tyvek$\textregistered$), 5 (Sontara$\textregistered$) and K (Kimlon$\textregistered$)) were used as test specimens. By pad-dry.cure method, each of the specimen was treated with fluorocarbon compound for water-oil repellent finish (Tw, Sw, Kw). And each of specimen was treated with organic silicon quarternary ammonium salts and then treated with fluorocabon compound for dual functional finish (76, 50, Kd). Using the three water-oil repellent finished fabrics and the three dual functional finished fabrics, six experimental protective pants (Cl (Tw), C2 (Sw), C3 (Kw), C4 (76), C5 (56), C6 (Kd)) were made according to the same pattern suggested by the Rual Guidance Office. The wear trials of experimental pesticide protective pants were performed in a conditioned vinyl plastic hothouse ($30\pm1^{\circ}C$, $70\pm5%$R.H., 0.25m/sec air velocity). The measurements of skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity on the subjects were obtained by the themohygromenter. The subjective wear sensations were measured using previously developed thermal, humidity and overall comfort scales. The results obtained from this study were as follows: 1) There were siginificant differences among nonwoven fabric types on the objective and subjective wear performances, therefore, the skin temperature, microclimate temperature and humidity of subjects who wore the experimental pants made with Sontara were siginificantly lower than those who wore the others. And, the experimental pants made with Sontara were assessed as more comfortable than the others in terms of the subjective thermal, humidity and overall wear sensations. 2) There were no significant differences between two finish types on the objective and subjective wear Performances. 3) The microclimate humidity on the thigh was highly correlated with the overall subjective comfort sensations and the next highly correlated one was the mean skin temperature. That is, the higher the microclimate humidity and the mean skin temperature, the higher the overall subjective comfort sensation ratings which mean the overall subjective sensation was very uncomfortable.