• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.35
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• pp.325-341
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• 1997

One of the noticeable trends of female wear in 1990s is the Outwearization of Underwear as it is called 'Lingerie look' This trend meaned 'Exposure Fashion' raised splendidly its head to the whole stage of fashion destrying the tradional concept having divided the fashion between outwear and underwear by Madonna an Americal populer singer showed up in front of the audience wearing the corset-dress as a stage custome. This corset-dress which can not be recognised whether it is underwear or outwear has been diffused into the mass as a fashionable trend re-gardless of any reason; therefore discrimi-nation of wear by space by far that is underwear should have the sstandard telling between private and public sector has been gradually tumbled. By the way what has propelled desigers to introduce the style continuously having the underwear motive such as outwear almost as same as underwear or underwear worn on out-wear etc. and has made it a fashion trends? How do we accept this "Ligerie look'fashion" The rearch on vogue of outwearization of underwear started by the questions above can be summarized as the followings The division between the sprit and the ma-terial-economic shrinkage by the collapse of the bubble economy in the late of 20 century and expectation for the next century doubt by changes of international politics dynamics for the next century and increasement of psycho-logical tention by the environmental destruc-tion etc, has been extended to break the sense of value down These frustration of the tra-ditional values and dissatisfaction on the pres-ent have reflected on the fashion pursuing some more sensational style to increase the ex-posure of the body. The revolution of wearing bouncing the con-servatismhas outwardly expressed underwear of the private sector. Therefore the spatial concept of wear which for the public sec-tor has been fallen into pieces and has broken the wall of the concept fixed by outwear on underwear. in addition the stage costome for the popular people like Madonna has not been limited by the specularity any more and has been assimilated with the normal wear on the street to take the distinction for away. The circumstances of the late of 20 century pursuing sensation and making sex commer-cialized have accordance with the outweari-zation of underwear. there it is on the basis of Minimalist's dogmatism has been expressed the maximization of expoure in the pubric space to popularize bra pants(knickers) as outwear. The reaction on the attribute of hiding and shanding has brought 'See-Through fashion' with the transparent materials, The contemporary doubt recalling the mem-ory of the past has sublimated corset which was an instument of toture for women into Romanticism to introduce it to fashion with the development of a new material not to be a tool of any oppression and maltretment any longer. The popularization of outwear like underwear what's more has brought high quality of underwear. There it has called for the variety of materials such as knit demin and velvet etc, and has urged the famous designers to enlarge their working boundaries to underwear designs, Besides outwearization of underwear has been popular even in the Orient which has the con-servative opinions on exposure ; so changes of the thoughts can be seen among the establish-ment generation on exposure of the body. As the more high tech information publi-cized and the more technology and media digitalized the more expression being analog the pursue for the new in fashion with vision never been seen and even though it is imprac-tical the experimental designers have drived the freedom beyond the traditional roles of the previous century. Consequently outwearization of underwear may be viewd as a trial as an expression responded the contemporary background. This trend in my opinion will have been lasted for a while by being proliperlated among lasted for a while by being proliperlated among the pub-lic who has the century-end anxiety and doubt and expectation for the next century.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.126-140
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to examine the fashion design applying to the hoop, which have become various since 1980. To do this, this study is investigated the origin and the changes of the hoop historically, then classified its types, and finally analyze the collections from 1980 to 2003. The hoop was appeared on the late 15th century. Then in the mid 16th century, bell-shaped farthingale was prevailed, followed by drum-shaped wheel farthingale and hausse-cul in England and France. In the 17th century, slim silhouette was popular, so that the hoop declined gradually. In the 18th century, panier and panier double were introduced which is to make side-expanded skirt silhouette. In the 19th century, crinoline and bustle were created. The hoops applied to modern collections are used various materials, techniques, and forms. It is a main item of historicism which appeared in the trend of post-modernism and the phenomenon of applying underwear to an outer garment like corset. The hoop is adapted into three ways: only with the frame of hoop, wearing a skirt with some parts of the frame exposed on purpose, and wearing a skirt on the frame, thus not showing the frame. Thus, it is thought that wearing a hoop as a frame is used an element of recreation of past fashion, at the same time it was affected by historicism which is a branch of post-modernism. Applying the hoop as an outer garment may be affected by eroticism which changed underwear into an outer wear in postmodernism and deconstructivism.