• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.237-260
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• 2000

According to the study of Jik-Ryoung(直領) consulting chronicles of the Chosun Era, Jik-Ryoung had been worn for various uses as official outfit, ordinary attire or clothes for the celebration of their coming of age, wedding ceremonies, funeral rites, and religious ceremonies, etc. from the beginning to the end of the Chosun Era. The conclusions are shown briefly as follows. 1. There are several terms of Po(袍) related to Jik-Ryoung in the chronicles under the name of Jik-Ryoung Ui(直領衣), Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung(衣撒直領), and Jik-shin(直身). Jik-Ryoung Ui is the other name of Jik-Ryoung that they called it when it was used for funeral rites and religious ceremonies. The chinese Ye-Sal(曳撒) was called the Ui-Sal Jik-Ryoung in Korea, but this is different with Jik-Ryoung regarding its divided up and bottom style. Jik-Shin is almost same as Jik-Ryoung. 2. During the latter period of the Chosun Era, we can find diferent frequency in use of the Jik-Ryoung. Jik-Ryoung was shown constantly in the cases of that ding, Chinese Prince and lower-level constantly in the cases of that king, Crown Prince and lower-level officials wore it for funeral rites and lower-level officials, artisans, merchants, humbles and slaves wore it for official outfit. Uses of the Jik-Ryoung increased for military officers'outfits, in contrast to decreasing of uses for ordinary attires of king, Crown Prince, and the commons, and official outfits of civil officials. 3. These different aspects mean the change of estate and role. For the basic four ceremonial occasions the ceremonies of coming of age, marriage, funeral, and ancestor memorial-, it appeared constantly. Therefore the social role had been maintained also by then. As an official garb, the role for official uniform of petty official maintained by the end of the Dynasty. But from the latter 1600's to the former 1700's, the roles for official garbs of civil officials and military officers decreased and increased respectively. Before the Hideyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, ordinary social clothes had orders by people's social status who wore them ; those were Dan Ryoung(團領), Hong Jik Ryoung(紅直領), Jik Ryoung(直領), Cho'l Rick(철릭) in the order named. After the war, various Po(袍), Shim Ui(深衣), Jung Chi Mak(中致莫), Chang Ui(　衣), Jang Ui(長衣), Ju Ui(周衣) and so on had been worn until the King Young Jo(英祖)·Jung Jo(正祖) period. In result, the social role of Jik-Ryoung was reduced as the uses decreased more and more. For a mourning dress, it had a same aspect as the case of ordinary social wear. 4. Considering the color, they used blue for the clothes for doing-up-the-hair ceremony, white for mourning clothes, and white, black for ancestor memorial ceremony clothes. On the official outfits of officials, dark blue and black were used mostly. And lower-level officials'clothes had white, red, and green on them. They used red and green for the plain dresses. 5. Examining the materials, clothes for the celebration of one's coming of age were made of high quality silks, Kwang Hwa Dan(廣禾緞). Also, they made clothes for funeral rites of rough and thick linen, and made clothes for religious ceremonies of linen and hemp. The official outfits were made of practical materials like cotton, hemp and ramie. Cotton, pongee and satin were used to make ordinary attire.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.1
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• pp.106-122
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• 2014

This study is based on the official Chinese history of the ancient Korean(中國正史朝鮮傳) clothing and ornaments, and also tries to discover, study, and adjust the system of the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. Ancient Korea has very poor official records of its clothing and ornaments. Therefore, this study had no choice but to rely on the official Chinese history to cover for the lack of resources. The official Chinese history documents are not only important for studying ancient Korean history, but also important for studying about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments. This research selected historical documents about the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments from fifteen different Chinese dynasties' official documents, and then systematically classified the documents in order to compare them. All these processes confirmed the following subjects. In regards to the Kwan(冠: general hat), the hat types included Check, Byun(弁), Jeol-poong(折風), Jowoo-Kwan(鳥羽冠), So-gol(蘇骨), and Na-kwan(羅冠). These Kwan(冠) were influenced from Chinese clothing and ornaments. Gold and silver decorations on the Kwan(冠) were influenced from the Scythai culture. The feather decorations on the hat were residual of the bird worshiping culture or the hunting lifestyle. These things show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the North. But the use of Jo-woo(bird feather) was common around the globe in many ways during the ancient times, regardless of area and period. The official Chinese history describes men's hair style as Choo-gyul (椎結) or sometimes pronounced, Choo-gyul(椎結). These seem to describe the topknot. Women had various types of hair styles such as Yu-byun-bal-su-hu (wear women's hair in a braid). The official Chinese history show that the ancient Korean clothing and ornaments originated the clothing and ornaments from the north. The ancient Korean clothing and ornaments influenced and were influenced by its neighboring countries.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.61-71
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• 2020

This study looks at 'Corporate Social Responsibility' which is required for the fashion industry and brands in modern times. The American fashion brand known for its corporate social responsibility activities, 'Patagonia' is the case study for this research. The purpose of this study is to make suggestions to eco-friendly, outdoor and casual apparel fashion brands that want to introduce corporate social responsibility programs by considering the case of Patagonia's "Worn Wear" campaign. The method of this study was to review corporate social responsibility, previous studies on Patagonia, and literature, such as domestic and foreign media, Patagonia's official homepage, specialty publications, and media. The study concerning corporate social responsibility is focused on Patagonia's "Worn Wear". Worn Wear is Patagonia's system that repurchases and repairs products from Patagonia's own consumers. The study found that the well known corporate social responsibility led to increased sales. Patagonia's social responsibility activities are thought to be part of the brand identity that goes beyond marketing. In the Worn Ware case, repurchasing products from consumers and reselling them or reprocessing them resulted in increased sales, increased consumer engagement, and higher brand attention. The suggestion for a fashion company or brand in a category similar to Patagonia that is looking to engage in corporate social responsibilbty is to adopt and continue a campaign that 'consists of a successful marketing image, connecting memories and new experiences, separated shopping channels while diversifying the creation of distribution and contact channels'.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.5
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• pp.657-670
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• 2003

It is quite common today for bride to wear white-colored wedding-dress in wedding ceremony. When does the color date back to? What does the “white” mean? Which other colors had been used for wedding dress and why? This research paper aims to answer those historical questions through literature review. It is found here that the “white” began to be generally accepted for a wedding dress color in the 18th century, and that the color became an official one since the marriage of Queen Victoria's (i.e. 1840). Prior to that, other colors were taken rather than the “white”. In ancient Greece and Roma, “Red” and “Yellow” were used to remove devils or to bring fortune. In medieval society, luxurious wedding dresses were popular and various colors were adopted in order to show up family power among leading classes. The “White” has meant purity of bride since the 18th century. However, two world wars in the 20th century happened to lead some brides in economic difficulty wear “black” colored wedding dress for a practical reason. After the world wars, some light colors such as white, beige, ivory are to be used in wedding dress.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.219-235
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• 1981

Jik-Ryoung was originally desinged to be worn by lower-class people in the reign of King Woo(A.D 1387, Goryeo) when official dresses and headgear were redsigned according to Ming's (明) style. It was observed that Jik-Ryoung was the same Po(袍) as Dan-Ryoung(團領) except its straight collar. Nowadays we can find through documents and original forms of Jik-Ryoung itself that Jik-Ryoung prevailed from the beginning to the end of the Yi Dynasty. Lower class people wore this coat until King Sejo(世祖), but from that time the Jik-Ryoung could be worn only by the Noble class as street clothes and home wear as well. Middle class people wore this coat as an office wear. Its style had changed from narrow sleeves and Moo (무, a reinforcing cloth strip) at the beginning to widers and Moo after the middle years of the Dynasty and finally fixed its style to sewing upper parts of Moo together. While red, white, and blue were the common colors, silk, hemp, cotton, and ramie were preferred materials to be made of.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.23
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• pp.211-223
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• 1994

It was aimed to study the costume of Koryo dynasty based upon the one hundred and ten pictures of the writtened Budist scripture. The costume to study were made about 400 years during the King Mok-jong(1006) to the first year of the king Kong-yang based upon the Avatamaka Sutra and the Sutra of the Lotus. 가) Men's wear : 1. Hair style and hair dress : 1) Man bored a hair and put on the hat such as a Kuan, Kun, and Mo. The young boys binds his hair up one, two, and three knots, and tied up with a hair ribbon. A kinds of hats were Tung-t'ien-kuan(Yuan-yu-kuan) and Chin-hien-kuan and as a court dress. The man wore pok-여 as an official uniform and wore a pok-du , kun-mo as an everyday dress and wore a helmet as a solidier's uniform. 2. Clothes : 1) They wore Yuan-yu-kuan and Chin-hien -kuan as a court dress, and wore belt, boots, pleated decorated ling skirt also. They wore round shape collor big sleeve jacket, small sleeve long coat, belt , boots as an official dress. 2) the soldiers wore helmet, scarf, yangdang-kap , hung-kap, bak-kap, we-yo-kap, kun-kap and jok-kap and carries arms. 3) The young boys bind his hair up one, two and three angle shape an tied up a hair ribbons. 나) Women's wear : 1. Hair Style and hair dress : high rank ladies made their hair top knot (one, two, or more knots) and tied with hair ribbons , and decorated with precious stone, pan shape head dress , wheel shape head dress. 2. Clothes ; 1) high rank ladie's wore kun -kyun attached jacket , and jacket sleeves decorated pleats and pleats decorated on skirt, apron, back apron, knot belt, scarf.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.83-98
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• 2012

In 2009, two national universities were integrated into one and the following was newly named Gangneung- Wonju National University. Therefore, this university requires consolidation and promotion of UI(University Identity) as a college brand in order to secure and enhance its competitiveness. The purpose of this study was to design and develop campus-wear, ultimately, it can be used as a part of the Gangeung-Wonju University's UIP policy. A qualitative approach of searching==incorporating books, dissertations, and web-based information==was taken to investigate theoretical backgrounds. The campus-wears were collected from the selected universities in Korea and abroad for the distinct design development. The result of the research are as follows. The concept for the design planning was "wit, exciting & challenge for campus life". The developed UI had focused on expressing positive images of the University. Six items were chosen for the campus-wear design. The goal was to demonstrate practicality and fashion trend. The color arrangement primarily focused on the University's official color and pursued a bright, breeze look. The detailed techniques used for the actual production were printing, embroidery, and accessories. The UI products may not only instill the members of the university with the spirit and pride by strengthening the sense of belonging, but also create a synergistic effect in education by boosting the university promotion and by newly establishing standing as the integrated university.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.29
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• pp.171-182
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• 1996

This thesis is concerned with the study of the court attire the typical attire of the ju-dicial world in a point of time that more than 100 years have passed since the introduction of the modern judical system. In recognition of the fact that compiled data of the official uni-form or attire in Korea are insufficient this study placed its signification on the provision of information with focus on attire. As a result of studying court attire in Korea the conclusion was made as follows: Firstly Official attires in Yi Dynasty were divided by wearing embroidered insignia on the breast and the back of an official robe ac-cordint to court rank as well as by wearing Sa-mo in wadded clothes of Dan-ryeong and attaching all sorts of appurtenances including bands and shoes The Minister of Justice was equipped with Ho-pyo Dae-sa-heon equipped with Hae-chi the mayor of Seoul equipped with Un-an In the era of the Kng Young-jo the minister of Justice had no change in its of-ficial robe but the mayer(Pan-yun) of Seoul (Han-sung-bu) had Un-an(wild geese in clouds) changed into Un-hak In the King Ko-jog era the minister of Justice had Ho-pyo changed into Ssang-ho and the mayor of Seoul had Un-hak changed into Ssng-hak on embroideved insignia on the breast and back of an official robe. Laws and regulations concerning court attire began with the In-judgement Full-dress Uni-form Requlation for official-level Clerical Staff below the ordinary staff the Issue No. 14 of the Royal Ordinance in 1906 provided as $\ulcorner$the matter cincerning the Dress Regulation of the Tribunal staff of the Cho-sun Government-General$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 222 of the Royal Ordi-nance in 1911 and changed into$\ulcorner$the Regu-lation on the Dress of Judge Prosecutor At-torney and Law Count Clerk$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 12 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1953 affter the establishment of Korean Government since emancipation from the Japanese rule and into $\ulcorner$the Regulation concerning the Court Attire of Judge and law Court Clerical Staff$\lrcorner$the Issue No. 516 of the Supreme Court Rule in 1966. The judicial system in Korea is the system introduced from the foreign country rather than autogenously developed. And it came to pass through the Japanese colonial period it the beginning that it took root in Korea n was not stabilized in harmony with our native tradition. Accordingly the attare regulation in the judicial system took root in our society by accepting the Japanese attire regulation as it was and judical officials have come to wear the count attire similar to that of the Japanese imperialist era due to its influence though Korean independent goverment was established together with liberation form the Japanese rule. The more regrettable thing is that the current court attire has maintained the form greatly influenced by the U. S. court attire. Fortunately as the judicial circles have recently raised their voices for change in the court attire it has been told that the forma-tion of a meeting for a new court attire has been under way. The birth of the court attire into Which our tradition is sublimated is expected. This study end up with thinking that the must Korean thing is the most global thing in this era that people in the world are clamoring for globalization.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.5 no.1
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• pp.14-27
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• 2002

The purpose of this study is to identify the ritual dress used by the 12 religious bodies of Dankun followers to help understand the teachings of these currently operating religious groups in Korea. The findings from the survey and related literatures are used to analyze the characteristics of these ritual dresses in terms of their items, construction, form, and color. The results of the study are as follows: first, most of the religious groups of Dankun followers have established the code for ritual dresses and they are named as 'chaebok'(제복, sacrificial robes), 'yebok'(예복, ceremonial dress), 'chungbok'(정복, formal attire), 'pubbok'(법복, Buddhist formal dress), or 'tobok'(도복, Taoist garments). The official headgear is usually named as 'chaemo'(제모), 'soogun'(수건), 'moja'(모자), or 'yoogun'(유건, 儒巾). Though, there are some groups which do not use any specific names for headgear. Second, the ritual dresses of most groups are composed of the 'hanbok'(한복,韓服) or usual Western-style dress, a traditional outer wear, 'po'(포,袍), and a headgear, as a basic attire. Third, the traditional 'hanbok' is worn as a base garment and an outer wear is worn above. The different types of outer wear are used: mostly 'chaksu jueui jikyoun po'(착수주의직령포, 窄袖周衣直領袍) for men and 'kwangsu jikyoung po'(광수직령포, 廣袖直領袍) and other various styles for women. The headgear from the ancient times are worn by both men and women. Fourth, the most frequently-used color for ritual dress is white for both men and women's dress. The colors from the Yin and Yang ideology are also used in the ritual dresses. Finally, the kinds of materials are not considered as an important element for the ritual dresses.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.123-133
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• 1981

If we are to define that the traditional costume is a comprehensive expression of the culture, thoughts, and arts of a country, it is needless to say that the traditional costume would have always reflected the social and cultural aspects of the times. In order words, the cultural contemplation of a certain people at some point the history is only possible when we observe the distintive features of the costume worn by the people of respective times. Although the Korean people had the native costume of its own from the times of the Ancient Choson to the Three Kingdoms of Koguryo, Paekche, and Silla, the Chinese influence on Korean traditional costume became somewhat pronounced ever since the Silla strenghtened the political ties with the T'ang dynasty in China, and it came to a climax when the dual structure in Korean native costume, being compounded with the Chinese touch, continued to be prevailed from the era of the Unified Silla to the Koryo and throughout the succeeding Yi dynasty, thereby copying the typical aspects of Chinese pattern in clothing and dresses worn by the ruling classes, namely the goverment officials including the Kings. Therefore, it is our aim to study the pattern of Chinese influence on our traditional costume, as well as social and cultural aspects by way of contrasting and comparing our official outfit system, which had been developing in dualism since the era of the Unified Silla, with that of China, and to trace in part the Korean traditional costume. In comparing our traditional official outfit system with that of China, we have basically concentrated on the comparison of the official outfit systems during the periods of the Three Kingdoms, the Koryo, and The Yi dynasty with that of corresponding era of Chinese history, namely the dynasties of T'ang, Sung, and Ming, and followed the documentary records for the comparison. Koreans had fallen into the practice of worshipping the powerful in China and begun to adopt the culture and institutions of the T'ang dynasty since the founding of the Unified Silla. From this time forth, Korean people started to wear the clothes in Chinese style. The style of clothing during the period of the Koryo Kingdom was deeply influenced by that of the T'ang and Sung dynasties in China, and it was also under the influenced of the Yuan dynasty(dynasty established by the Mongols) at one time, because of the Koryo's subordinative position to the Yuan. At the close of the Koryo dynasty, the King Kongmin ordered the stoppage on the use of 'Ji-Joung', the name of an era for the Yuan dynasty, in May of the eighteenth year of his rule in order to have the royal authority recognized by a newly rising power dominating the Chinese continent, the Mind. Kind Kongmin presented a memorial, repaying a kindness to the Emperor T'aejo of the Ming dynasty in celebration of his enthronement and requested that the emperor choose an official outfit, thereby the Chinese influence being converted to that of the Ming. As a matter of course, the Chinese influence deepened all the more during the era of the Yi dynasty coupled with the forces of the toadyic ideology of worshipping the China, dominant current of the times, and the entire costume, from the imperial crown and robe to the official outfit system of government officials, such as official uniforms, ordinary clothes, sacrificial robes, and court dresses followed the Chinese style in their design. Koreans did not have the opportunity of developing the official outfit system on its own and they just wore the official outfit designated on separate occasions by the emperors of China, whenever the changes in dynasty occurred in the continent. Especially, the Chinese influence had greatly affected in leading our consciousness on the traditional costume to the consciousness of the class and authority. Judging from the results, Koreans had been attaching weight to the formulation of the traditional outfit system for the ruling classes in all respective times of the history and the formulation of the system was nothing more than the simple following of the Chinese system.