• Title/Summary/Keyword: Ocean Waves

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A Proposal for Criterion of Sudden High Waves in the East Sea (동해에서 돌연고파의 기준 제안)

  • Kim, In-Chul;Oh, Jihee;Suh, Kyung-Duck
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.28 no.3
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    • pp.117-123
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    • 2016
  • One of the major characteristics of the swell-like high waves, which occur in the East Sea mostly in winter with large height and long period, is its suddenness associated with the rapid development of high waves from a calm state of sea. To represent such suddenness, in this study, the term sudden high waves is introduced. To propose the criterion of sudden high waves, comparisons were made between the wave measurement data at Gangneung and Wangdolcho for eight years from 2005 and the record of marine accidents and property damage on the coast of Gangwon-do Province and Gyeongsangbuk-do Province during the same period. It was found that most of the accidents occurred when ${\Delta}(H^2L)/{\Delta}t$ was approximately greater than the top 20% or $88.6m^3/hr$, which is therefore proposed as the criterion of sudden high waves. The used variable represents the rate of increase of the wave energy in one wavelength, including not only height and period but also suddenness of high waves.

Numerical Simulation of Irregular Waves Over a Shoal Using Parabolic Wave Model (포물형 파랑모형을 이용한 수중천퇴상 불규칙파의 수치모의)

  • 윤성범;이정욱;연영진;최병호
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.13 no.2
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    • pp.158-168
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    • 2001
  • A numerical model based on the wide-angle parabolic approximation equation is developed for the accurate simulation of the directional spreading and partial breaking of irregular waves. This model disintegrates the irregular waves into a series of monochromatic wave components, and the simultaneous calculations are made for each wave component. Then, the computed wave components are superposed to get the wave height of irregular waves. To consider the partial breaking of irregular waves in the computation the amount of energy dissipation due to breaking is estimated using the superposed wave height. The accuracy of the developed model is tested by comparing the numerical results with the experimental measurements reported earlier. In the case of non-breaking waves a considerable accuracy of the model is observed for both regular and irregular waves. On the contrary it is found that the accuracy is significantly degenerated for the case of breaking waves. Some analyses for the accuracy degeneration are presented.

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An Experimental Study on Breaking Waves (쇄파 발생에 관한 실험적 연구)

  • 이동연;주성문;최항순
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.37-43
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    • 1996
  • Breaking waves were generated in a 2-D flume. A piston-type wavemaker was operated in accordance with signals which consist of elementary harmonics with appropriate phase differences. These phase differences were estimated by using a linear wave theory so that wave crests were to be concentrated at the same position. The stroke of wavemaker was controlled to create plunging-type breaking waves. The signal with small amplitude could not generate breaking waves. In the case of moderate amplitudes, various breaking waves could be obtained. Most of breaking waves were spilling type. Only when the wavemaker was operated with appropriate amplitude, plunging-type breaking waves were generated. The parameters of breaking waves are the wave steepness and the frequency bandwidth. If the central frequency was low, breaking waves were not generated. Based on experimental data, we found that the wave height of breaking inception was H = 0.0113 gT$^2$. We also made computations by using a mixed Euler-Lagrangian scheme under the assumption of potential flow. The numerical results show good agreements with tank measurements.

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Hydraulic Experiments of Stem Waves due to Multi-Directional Random Waves along a Vertical Caisson (다방향 불규칙파에 의한 직립벽 주위의 연파특성)

  • Yoo, Hyung-Seok;Kim, Kyu-Han;Jung, Eui-Jin
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.22 no.6
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    • pp.429-436
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    • 2010
  • Hydraulic experiments were conducted to analyze the characteristics of stem waves due to multidirectional random wave incidence with the different incident angles of main wave direction. Both multi-directional and uni-directional random waves were used to generate the stem waves and their results were compared with each other. The experiment shows multi-directional random waves developed along the vertical wall tend to increase as the incident angle increases similar to the uni-directional waves. Moreover, the stem wave widths were almost same as those in uni-directional random wave cases. However, the experiment demonstrate the stem wave heights were significantly smaller in multi-directional random wave cases than in uni-directional random wave cases.

Hydraulic Experiments of Stem Waves along a Vertical Wall due to Unidirectional Random Waves (직립벽을 따른 일방향 불규칙파의 연파실험)

  • Lee, Jong-In;Choi, Jun-Woo;Yoon, Sung-Bum
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.49-61
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    • 2008
  • This study investigates the characteristics of stem waves along a vertical wall generated by obliquely incident random waves through laboratory experiments conducted in a wave basin and numerical simulations using REF/DIF S model developed by Kirby and $\ddot{O}zkan$(1994). The investigation is focused on the effect of random waves on the propagation characteristics of stem waves and the difference or similarity between monochromatic and random waves. The results of REF/DIF S model are compared with laboratory measurements and good agreements are obtained. The relative significant wave height along a wall is almost same with monochromatic condition, but the wave pattern along normal to the wall shows a significant difference.

Numerical Simulation of Overtopping of Cnoidal Waves on a Porous Breakwater Using the Boussinesq Equations: Comparison with Solutions of the Navier-Stokes Equations (Boussinesq 식을 사용하여 Cnoid 파의 투수방파제 월파 해석: Navier-Stokes 식 결과와 비교)

  • Huynh, Thanh Thu;Lee, Changhoon;Ahn, Suk Jin
    • Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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    • v.31 no.2
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    • pp.41-49
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    • 2019
  • We approximately obtain heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater using both the one-layer Boussinesq equations (Vu et al., 2018) and the two-layer Boussinesq equations (Huynh et al., 2017). For cnoidal waves overtopping on a porous breakwater, we find through numerical experiments that the heights of cnoidal waves overtopping on a low-crested breakwater (obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations) are smaller than the heights of waves passing through a high-crested breakwater (obtained by the one-layer Boussinesq equations) and larger than the heights of waves passing through a submerged breakwater (obtained by the two-layer Boussinesq equations). As the cnoidal wave nonlinearity becomes smaller or the porous breakwater width becomes narrower, the heights of transmitting waves obtained by the one-layer and two-layer Boussinesq equations become closer to the height of overtopping waves obtained by the Navier-Stokes equations.

CFD Simulation about Green Water on a Fixed FPSO in Regular Waves

  • Ha, Yoon-Jin;Nam, Bo Woo
    • Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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    • v.3 no.4
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    • pp.174-183
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    • 2017
  • Numerical simulations were performed about the green water problem of a FPSO. Three regular waves in head sea were tested. A rectangular box-shaped FPSO was considered and it is assumed there is a vertical wall on the deck. For the numerical simulations, an open-source CFD code, OpenFOAM, was applied to solve the present problems. Focus is on wave fields around the FPSO, water flows and impact pressures on the deck. For the validation, the present calculation results were compared with the existing experimental of Lee et al. (2012) and Changwon university in KTTC Cooperative Study Report (2015). The statistical values and spatial distribution of the peak pressures are directly compared with the experimental data. Some discussions are made on the effects of the domain breadth on the Green water impact pressure.

Acoustic Characteristics Applied to Seafloor and Sub-bottom Survey (해저지형${\cdot}$지층탐사에 적용되는 음파특성)

  • Kim, Seong-Ryul;Lee, Yong-Kuk;Jeong, Baek-Hun
    • 한국지구과학회:학술대회논문집
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    • 2005.09a
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    • pp.42-50
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    • 2005
  • The electromagnetic (light) waves are limited to penetrate the media, ie, water and sea-bottom layers, due to high energy attenuation, but acoustic (sound) waves play as the good messenger to gather the underwater target information. Therefore the acoustic methods are applied to almost of ocean equipments and technology in terms of in-water and sub-bottom surveys. Generally the sound character is controlled by its frequency. In case that the sound source is low frequency, the penetration is high and the resolution is low. On the other hand, its character is reversed at the high frequency. The common character at the both of light and sound is the energy damping according to the travel distance increase.

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Application of Directional Wavelet to Ocean Wave Image Analysis (방향 웨이브렛을 적용한 해양파 이미지 분석)

  • Kwon S. H.;Lee H. S.;Park J. S.;Ha M. K.
    • Proceedings of the KSME Conference
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    • 2002.08a
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    • pp.377-380
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    • 2002
  • This paper presents the results of a study investigating methods of interpretation of wave directionality based on wavelet transforms. Two-dimensional discrete wavelet was used for the analysis. The proposed scheme utilizes a single frame of ocean waves to detect their directionality. This fact is striking considering the fact that traditional methods require long time histories of ocean wave elevation measured at various locations. The developed schemes were applied to the data generated from numerical simulations and video images to test the efficiency of the proposed scheme in detecting the directionality of ocean waves.

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