• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.3 no.1
• /
• pp.54-64
• /
• 1991

To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.12-22
• /
• 1994

Time evolution of linear water waves on a constant depth generated by a disturbance is analyzed by asymptotic methods; stationary phase, steepest descents and leading wave approximation. In order to verify the derived formulae of surface displacements for 1-D and 2-D waves. surface displacements are calculated and plotted from both the formulae and a numerical integration. The existing results for surface displacements are verified in which the leading amplitude of 1-D waves during the evolution decays as f- T/B, the rest of the wavetrain as t$^{-1}$ 2/ and the rest of the wavetrain of 2-D waves as t-1. But it is shown that the leading amplitude of 2-D waves decays as t 5/6 which is different from Kajiura's result t$^{-4}$ 3/.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
• /
• v.2 no.1
• /
• pp.1-11
• /
• 2016

The objective of this paper is to present an analytical solution in deep water waves and verify the validity of the theory (Shin, 2015). Hence this is a follow-up to Shin (2015). Instead of a variational approach, another approach was considered for a more accurate assessment in this study. The products of two coefficients were not neglected in this study. The two wave profiles from the KFSBC and DFSBC were evaluated at N discrete points on the free-surface, and the combination coefficients were determined for when the two curves pass the discrete points. Thus, the solution satisfies the differential equation (DE), bottom boundary condition (BBC), and the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) exactly. The error in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) is less than 0.003%. The wave theory was simplified based on the assumption tanh $D{\approx}1$ in this paper. Unlike the perturbation method, the results are possible for steep waves and can be calculated without iteration. The result is very simple compared to the 5th Stokes' theory. Stokes' breaking-wave criterion has been checked in this study.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.17 no.1
• /
• pp.21-31
• /
• 2005

In this study, derivation is made of a one-grid source function for the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu (1993) in order to generate nonlinear waves internally. The energy velocity approach used in the line source method is verified analytically by the fractional step splitting method. The source function method is verified by generating accurately nonlinear waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases. It is found that numerical solutions by the source function method are the same as those by the line source method.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.18 no.1
• /
• pp.1-14
• /
• 2006

This paper presents the techniques developed using the line source method to internally generate waves on an arc in a rectangular grid system. For five different types of wave generation layouts, quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. (1997). The fifth type of wave generation layout, consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle, showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.19 no.6 s.67
• /
• pp.22-28
• /
• 2005

We investigated the characteristics of the overflow/wave overtopping, induced by the storm surge and high waves in Masan bay and Busan Coast during Typhoon 'Maemi', which landed at the southeast coast of the Korean peninsula on September, of 2003, causing a severe inundation disaster. Characteristics of the water level, increase by the overflow / wave overtopping, were discussed in two patterns. One is the increase of water level in the region, located inside of a bay, like Masan fishing port, and the waves are relatively small. The other is in the open sea, in which the waves act directly, as on the seawall in Suyong bay. In the former region, the water level increase was affected by the storm surge, as well as the long period oscillation and waves. In Masan fishing port, about $80\%$ of the water level increase on the quay wall was caused by the storm surge. In the latter one, it was greatly affected by the wave run-up. In Suyong bay, about $90\%$ of the water level increase on the seawall was caused by the wave run-up.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.19 no.6
• /
• pp.586-595
• /
• 2007

The analytic solution of wave scattering of monochromatic waves on a pile breakwater by an eigenfunction expansion method is extended to the case of directional irregular waves. The scattering wave spectrum and the force spectrum can be expressed from the reflection coefficient, transmission coefficient and the wave forces obtained from changing frequencies and incident angles in monochromatic waves. By numerical integration of 2-dimensional spectrum which is function of frequencies and incident angles, the representative values for the scattered waves and wave forces are obtained and the dependence of the transmission coefficients and wave forces on the directional distribution function, the principal wave direction, the submergence depth, and porosity is analyzed.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.30 no.4
• /
• pp.153-165
• /
• 2018

In this study, the performance of irregular wave field generation of olaFlow is first verified by comparing the frequency spectrum of the generated waves by the wave-source using olaFlow and the target wave. Based on the wave performance of irregular waves of olaFlow, the characteristics of the velocity field including the average flow velocity, longshore current and turbulent kinetic energy around the three-dimensional permeable submerged breakwaters, which act as the main external forces of the salient formation, are numerically investigated. The numerical results show that as the gap width between breakwaters decreases, the wave height in the center of the gap increases and as the gap width between breakwaters increases, the longshore currents become stronger. As a result, it is possible to understand the formation of the salient formed behind the submerged breakwaters.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.7-14
• /
• 2011

Numerical simulations were performed for the evaluation of wave and current loads on a fixed cylindrical substructure model for an ocean wind turbine using the ANSYS-CFX package. The numerical wave tank was actualized by specifying the velocity at the inlet and applying momentum loss as a wave damper at the end of the wave tank. The Volume-Of-Fluid (VOF) scheme was adopted to capture the air-water interface. An accuracy validation of the numerical wave tank with a truncated vertical circular cylinder was accomplished by comparing the CFD results with Morison's formula, experimental results, and potential flow solutions using the higher-order boundary element method (HOBEM). A parametric study was carried out by alternately varying the length and amplitude of the wave. As a meaningful engineering application, in the present study, three kinds of conditions were considered, i.e., cases with current, waves, and a combination of current and progressive waves, passing through a cylindrical substructure model. It was found that the CFD results showed reasonable agreement with the results of the HOBEM and Morison's formula when only progressive waves were considered. However, when a current was included, CFD gave a smaller load than Morison's formula.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
• /
• v.32 no.1
• /
• pp.11-16
• /
• 2020

The rotational stability of an interlocking caisson breakwater was studied. Using the analytical solution for the linear wave incident to the infinite breakwater, the phase difference effect of wave pressures in the direction of the breakwater baseline is considered, and Goda's wave pressure formula in the design code is adopted to consider the nonlinearity of the design wave. The rotational safety factor of the breakwater was defined as the ratio of the rotational frictional resistance moment due to caisson's own weight and the acting rotational moment due to the horizontal and vertical wave forces. An analytical solution for the rotational center point location and the minimum safety factor is presented. Stability assessment formula were proposed to be applicable to all design wave conditions used in current port and harbor structure design such as regular waves, irregular waves and multi-directional irregular waves.