• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.225-234
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• 2014

The 2011 Tohoku earthquake triggered extremely destructive tsunami waves which propagated over the Pacific Ocean, Atlantic Ocean through Drake Passage and Indian Ocean respectively. A total of 10 tide-gauge records collected from the UNESCO/IOC site were analyzed through a band-pass digital filtering device to examine the observed tsunami characteristics. The ray tracing method and finite-difference model with GEBCO 30 arc second bathymetry were also applied to compare the travel times of the Tohoku-originated tsunami, particularly at Rodrigues in the Indian Ocean and King Edward Point in the Atlantic Ocean with observation-based estimates. At both locations the finite-difference model produced the shortest arrival times, while the ray method produced the longest arrival times. Values of the travel time difference however appear to be within tolerable ranges, considering the propagation distance of the tsunami waves. The observed tsunami at Rodrigues, Mauritius in the west of the Madagascar was found to take a clockwise travel path around Australia and New Zealand, while the observed tsunami at King Edward Point in the southern Atlantic Ocean was found to traverse the Pacific Ocean and then passed into the Atlantic Ocean through the Drake Strait. The formation of icebergs captured by satellite images in Sulzberger in the Antarctica also supports the long-range propagation of the Tohoku-originated tsunami.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.54-64
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• 1991

To accurately estimate the rate of sediment transport in shallow water bodies, it is necessary to investigate the irregular waves transformation characteristics and nearshore currents produced by random sea waves. Most of studies on numerical models for nearshore currents are based on the theory of monocromatic waves and thus, very few nearshore models take into account the effect of irregularities in the hight, period and directional spreading of incident waves. The numerical simulation model for nearshore currents used in this paper considers the effect of irregularities of incident waves, based on Individual Wave Analysis. The computational results are compared and shown in a reasionable agreement with the experimental data.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.12-22
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• 1994

Time evolution of linear water waves on a constant depth generated by a disturbance is analyzed by asymptotic methods; stationary phase, steepest descents and leading wave approximation. In order to verify the derived formulae of surface displacements for 1-D and 2-D waves. surface displacements are calculated and plotted from both the formulae and a numerical integration. The existing results for surface displacements are verified in which the leading amplitude of 1-D waves during the evolution decays as f- T/B, the rest of the wavetrain as t$^{-1}$ 2/ and the rest of the wavetrain of 2-D waves as t-1. But it is shown that the leading amplitude of 2-D waves decays as t 5/6 which is different from Kajiura's result t$^{-4}$ 3/.

• Journal of Advanced Research in Ocean Engineering
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.1-11
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• 2016

The objective of this paper is to present an analytical solution in deep water waves and verify the validity of the theory (Shin, 2015). Hence this is a follow-up to Shin (2015). Instead of a variational approach, another approach was considered for a more accurate assessment in this study. The products of two coefficients were not neglected in this study. The two wave profiles from the KFSBC and DFSBC were evaluated at N discrete points on the free-surface, and the combination coefficients were determined for when the two curves pass the discrete points. Thus, the solution satisfies the differential equation (DE), bottom boundary condition (BBC), and the kinematic free surface boundary condition (KFSBC) exactly. The error in the dynamic free surface boundary condition (DFSBC) is less than 0.003%. The wave theory was simplified based on the assumption tanh $D{\approx}1$ in this paper. Unlike the perturbation method, the results are possible for steep waves and can be calculated without iteration. The result is very simple compared to the 5th Stokes' theory. Stokes' breaking-wave criterion has been checked in this study.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.17 no.1
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• pp.21-31
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• 2005

In this study, derivation is made of a one-grid source function for the extended Boussinesq equations of Nwogu (1993) in order to generate nonlinear waves internally. The energy velocity approach used in the line source method is verified analytically by the fractional step splitting method. The source function method is verified by generating accurately nonlinear waves as well as linear waves for horizontally one-dimensional cases. It is found that numerical solutions by the source function method are the same as those by the line source method.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.1-14
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• 2006

This paper presents the techniques developed using the line source method to internally generate waves on an arc in a rectangular grid system. For five different types of wave generation layouts, quantitative experiments were conducted under the following conditions: the propagation of waves on a flat bottom, the refraction and shoaling of waves on a planar slope, and the diffraction of waves to a semi-infinite breakwater. Numerical experiments were conducted using the extended mild-slope equations of Suh et al. (1997). The fifth type of wave generation layout, consisting of two parallel lines connected to a semicircle, showed the best solutions, especially for a small grid size.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.19 no.6 s.67
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• pp.22-28
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• 2005

We investigated the characteristics of the overflow/wave overtopping, induced by the storm surge and high waves in Masan bay and Busan Coast during Typhoon 'Maemi', which landed at the southeast coast of the Korean peninsula on September, of 2003, causing a severe inundation disaster. Characteristics of the water level, increase by the overflow / wave overtopping, were discussed in two patterns. One is the increase of water level in the region, located inside of a bay, like Masan fishing port, and the waves are relatively small. The other is in the open sea, in which the waves act directly, as on the seawall in Suyong bay. In the former region, the water level increase was affected by the storm surge, as well as the long period oscillation and waves. In Masan fishing port, about $80\%$ of the water level increase on the quay wall was caused by the storm surge. In the latter one, it was greatly affected by the wave run-up. In Suyong bay, about $90\%$ of the water level increase on the seawall was caused by the wave run-up.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.19 no.6
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• pp.586-595
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• 2007

The analytic solution of wave scattering of monochromatic waves on a pile breakwater by an eigenfunction expansion method is extended to the case of directional irregular waves. The scattering wave spectrum and the force spectrum can be expressed from the reflection coefficient, transmission coefficient and the wave forces obtained from changing frequencies and incident angles in monochromatic waves. By numerical integration of 2-dimensional spectrum which is function of frequencies and incident angles, the representative values for the scattered waves and wave forces are obtained and the dependence of the transmission coefficients and wave forces on the directional distribution function, the principal wave direction, the submergence depth, and porosity is analyzed.

• Proceedings of the Korea Committee for Ocean Resources and Engineering Conference
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• 2003.10a
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• pp.309-316
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• 2003

In this paper, The statistical properties of ocean waves in the sea area of Hong-do, Korea are examined based on 1998-2002's wave data from a directional wave buoy. Wave data aquisition rate, mean wave heights, frequency of wave direction are summarized. Wave height and period scatter diagrams and n-years return period wave heights are estimated. Wave periods of maximum wave heights are also estimated. Large amplitude wave characteristics during the typhoon Prapiroon in 2000, Rusa in 2002 are also examined.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.346-351
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• 2017

The aim of this paper is to apply the Crowhurst-Zhenquan scheme to one-dimensional Madsen-Sørensen extended Boussinesq equations. In order to verify the application of the aforementioned scheme, the propagation of solitary waves was simulated for two different cases of submarine topography; e.g., a plane beach and submerged breakwater. The simulated results are compared to the results of recent studies and show favorable agreement. The behavior of progressive waves is also investigated.