• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.6
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• pp.48-61
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• 2010

Pearl gowns(Jeanju-eui)' of Princess Jekukdaejang which were imported from Yuan to Goryeo in 13'th century, but correct shape and detail were unkown. Princess Jekukdaejang was a queen of Goryeo and a daughter of Kublai Khan of early Yuan period, and pearls were the most precious jewel in Mongolia of medieval time. It is possible that the shapes of Jeanju-eui were nomadic mogolian women's costume or very new style yet in early Yuan just like sleeveless long vest. In the period of Yuan, pearls were beaded on the stiff thin fabric for summer or ornaments of ladies. Big pearls were made use of point spot of pattern or line of pattern, and small pearls were usually used to fill up devided parts or to bind outline. The shapes of deducted pearl gown are five kinds of women's deel and four kinds of long vest, and deducted parts for pearl decoration are golden band from shoulder to wrist and on the knees of gown, cloud shape collar, patches on the breast and on the back, slant collar, and patterns of fabric. Red color(the favorite color of Yuan ladies), artifical pearls, ramie, and golden brocade with the gloss of satin are selected as stuffs for sample of pearl gown, but 'reproducting old fabrics' was the most important problem in making correct pearl gowns. Suggested is a cooperation with fabric makers to develop alternate fabircs with patterns just like Yuan's.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.7
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• pp.95-109
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• 2003

The style of different styles of clothing have been developed by not only the natural environment and social effects. but also by various variables such as the peculiar cultures and religions of different ethnic groups. It is naturally accepted without question that the origin of trousers was derived from the Skytie race in the modern style of dress. And the style of those trousers has changed and developed throughout a long history in different environments and surroundings. As part of the research of the process in this styles of clothing, it is essential to know how the fabric of trousers has been developed and how the styles have been changed because of different weather conditions and different religions. Nowadays, Eurasian countries was scattered from western and eastern Asian countries to middle Asian countries such as Russia, Uzbekistan, Kazakistan, Turkey, Turkmenistan, Iran and China. These countries are located on the way to the Silk Road. They are fully developed in a cultural area among the different religions. In terms of cultural aspects within the different religions, men's trousers had developed the traditional style of this dress as one of the importnat items on the cultural basis. The ranges and types of these traditional trousers are divided by the regions, such as west and southern Asia, central Asia and China. Pakistan, Afghanistan, Iran, Iraq, Syria, Lebanon, Turkey. Jordan, Saudi Arabia, Kuwait and Israel was a part of the west and southern Asian countries which were located between western countries and eastern countries. This tribes wore Shalwar trousers which is a wide style of trousers. Shalwar in the western and eastern Asian region has a specific feature by the each nation but has the same distinctions such as by using very wide and loose style and tying a fine thread around the waist. Some central Asian countries consisted of part of China, Turkmenistan. the Republic of Tajikistan. the Republic of Kyrgyzstan and the Republic of Afganistan. These style of trousers are compound types which appeared with mixing Draperian Greek culture. So it can be inferred from this data that the horse-riding nomadic trousers which had been handed down from Skytie tribe through Persia. The style of the trousers in those regions has small pieces. The style of the trousers in China, which is located on the way to the far eastern countries, has developed new trousers put together two pieces of the textile. These widen trousers can be worn by using a sash belt. So we can find out that those trousers of countries which mentioned above have a common point and a rule.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.5
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• pp.769-785
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• 2018

This study focused on similarities between modern philosophical Nomadism and the thoughts of Korean people as well as analyzed the correlation between modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. This study aims are as follows. First, to establish aesthetic characteristics by examining modern Nomadism and Korean thoughts. Second, draw the principles of design expressions of modern Nomad fashion and Korean traditional costumes. Third, analyze correlations between them. The method of this study was a literature review and an analysis of related photos. The study results are as follows. First, Nomadic aesthetics are characterized by the formation of complex diversity with the variability of fusion and separation through liquidity in an ambiguous boundary; in addition, various possibilities and harmony are the characteristics of Korean aesthetics, held by a holistic thought based on the vision of the universe of Qi (氣). Second, Nomad fashion appeared as variable designs through repetition and the overlapping of forms, and irregular designs were noticed through repetition and the overlapping of circles, quadrangles, and angles in Korean traditional costumes. Third, similarities in the creation of liquidity, variability, and de-territoriality based on modules can be found; in addition, common principles can also be drawn from the appearing design expressions.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.7 no.1
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• pp.41-54
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• 2005

The purposes of this study on various headgear at the age of the Persian Achaemenes are to analyze one cultural aspect of the Achaemenes Kingdom that made a great empire about 5th century B.C. and to understand the ancient Persian culture. It is widely recognized that the Persian region was an important place for cultural exchange between the East and the West through the Silk Road and its culture affected China and Korea. Therefore, it is necessary to study ancient culture in this region for further understanding of the Korean culture. However, research activities have not been satisfactorily conducted. This study is an attempt to elevate the interest in this subject. In this study, European archeological materials covering Naqsh-e-Rostam (a tomb of Darius), Apadana stairs, Darius palace in Persepolis, and Bistun(Behistun), the relief at the age of the Achaemenes Kingdom, were collected and analyzed. From this study, the following results were obtained. For crowns at the age of the Achaemenes Kingdom, two kinds of shapes are observed; Mitra, a kind of headband, in the early period and a cylindrical one in the later period. Mitra was also worn by chiefs trusted by the king. Further, slightly different styles of cylindrical crowns were observed, which is considered that kings might wear unique crowns to symbolize new period of their reign. In addition to crowns, various styles of headgear for subjects are observed, meaning that tribes conquered by the Persian empire used their unique headgear. Further, such different styles of headgear might be a tool for social classification. Representative styles of headgear include the semicircular one worn by the Median nobles, Strophion originated from the Elam's headband, and nomadic tribes' Baschlik observed in the Median relics.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.5
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• pp.629-647
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• 2017

As fashion has concentrated increasingly on inner values, it has become more directly connected with human life and society. This study analyzed anti-fashion, a movement that resists mainstream society and culture, which it views as causing inner conflicts such as competition, mammonism, consumerism, and egoism by fixating solely on the pursuit of growth and improvement. The study examined Kinfolk, an independent lifestyle magazine, to determine the essential values and principles that comprise this movement's refusal of mainstream modern society. The analysis of Kinfolk identified the following characteristics of, the Kinfolk lifestyle: essentialism, nature-friendliness, retro sensibilities, socio-ethical awareness, and diversity. Essentialism refers to the pursuit of essence, brevity, innovation based on tradition and slow life. Nature-friendliness involves communion with nature and humanity, animal-friendliness, de-industrialization, de-urbanization, and nomadic behavior. The components of the retro sensibility include nostalgia, and interests in vintage culture, and handcrafts. Diversity encompasses commonplaceness, various subcultures, agelessness, genderlessness, acceptance of other cultures, and new understanding. The analysis identified the tendencies of anti-fashion in Kinfolk magazine as simplicity, naturalism, resistance to novelty, ethics, and inclusiveness. Anti-fashion pursues the essential values of human life that have been lost or forgotten in modern society. It is important to pay constant attention to the values of minority, non-mainstream and indie cultures that represent anti-fashion. It exerts considerable influence and has great potential as an area for the development of various style-based paradigms rather than as a single fashion direction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.368-386
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• 1994

The primary purpose of this study was to identify the diversity and embellishment of American Indian clothing and relationship between culture and clothing in American Indian Culture Areas. After the introduction of European material culture, change in American Indian clothing was conducted. The result of the Study as follows: 1. The most influential factors affecting the diversity of American Indian clothing were environmental factors. Climates and geographical features, Raw material were reflected in clothing style and clothing material in each culture Area. 2. Economic situation and life style were shown to be influential to clothing development. The best known instance of this was greatly elaborated clothing and personal adornment of the Plains who had higher stand of life and nomadic life style. 3. Religious concepts were important factors influencing American Indian clothing. Indian tribes had different ritual performance they used particular motifs in clothing. Clothing, such as "ghost shirt", Apache medicine shirt and Pueblo ceremonial clothing, served hidden pur- poses. 4. Techenology was another factor identified in this study as influencing American Indian clothing. Especially, weaving skills of Southwest played a great role in textile development. Pueblo "manta" and Navaho "bil" were famous for Indian costume. 5. European material culture allowed great change of traditional native Indian clothing. American Indian had new material, new styles, new concept of clothing. 6. American Indian, although Indian applicated European trade goods, was actually quite conservative in retaining traditional designs and modes of decoration. Asthetics and traction of American Indian were reflected in American Indian clothing.d in American Indian clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.221-245
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• 1991

The purpose of the study is to search for the existene mode of the modern cosmetology by not only understanding generally but also looking into the fundamental mental base and the aesthetic senses reflected in the literatuers and remans concerned with the traditional Korean cosmetology from anient times to modern times (1910). What are characteritic of in the systemetic study are summarized as follows : Chapter I The purposes and methods are systematized and the scop of study is specified. Chapter II The definition of cosmetology and osmetic indicates that the traditional cosmetology is a sort of whole deoration with costume. Chapter III It can hypothesized that since the Koreans were the northern nomadic tribe, in the beginning the cosmetology might have had a practical usage to protect themselves from the cold weather, and then gradually become to have a decoration meaning, and finally, with the development of various social culture, undergone the transition reflecting some characteristic of each era. Chapter IV While the female cosmetology had been much likely to accomodate the spirit of the times under the male, most of the male cosmetology had been done as a means to exhibit his social position, the tendency which had been prominent in the Yi dynasty. Chapter V Sinece beauty kits which were made of raw materials had been selg-supplying only to meet the small demand, their size were relatively small and had been given a menaing of a luchy omen or exorcism. Chapter VI Buddhism introduced bathing and incense, Confucianistic view of womanhood differentiated the cosmetology between Kissang and daughters of respectable citizens, and thin make-up was recomended. In addition, there many thoughts to have influence on the traditional cosmetology culture : body-and-soul unity, exorcism, naturalism, and short-lived beauty. Chapter VII Since the on-going movement of makeing use of the traditional cosmetic materials in order to apply to modern cosmetic may be a king of counter-vertical cultural phenomena to incorporate our own tradition with the modern cosmetology culture efficiently, the hope is that the findings of the study may contribute to the said efforts. In short, the study on the traditional cosmetology culture may be heloful in Looking into the existence of the modern cosmetology through its clarification of the nature of the traditional cosmetology culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.18
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• pp.211-223
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• 1992

The results of the researches in the wig and the Boyo are as follows. The wig is to be classified into Bu, Pyun, Chah, Cheh, and kwik, Bu is an ornamental hairpin used by the empress, and it is decorated with Boyo. Pyun is a wig made of braided hair. Chah is made of Bal which is put together by its lenath, and it was also called Picheh or Pisuck. It is made, one by one, of hair of the convicts and the low-class people. 초도 has a meaning of toupee, and it is used to look beautiful with its thick black hair. Kwik is a wig made of hair as if it is weaved out of thread, and it is rounded with a wire. In ancient times, it was also called chah, Pi, or Pi People wore different wigs according to their class and the use, in order of Bu, Pyun, and Chah. There are remains of the Han Dynasty. Boyo, just like the wig, was originally a custom of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the later Han Dynasty. It is also called Cho Song and has a different meaning from the Boyo attached to a crown before the Han Dynasty. It became much more beautiful in the Which in period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Tang Dynasty, which is due to the influence by the customs of the western Ho tribe. The name of hairstyling using wigs in each period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its properity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found. times, it was also called chah, Pr, or period, and things such as hair, black thread, lignum, and paper were used as materials. Since the wig had differed according to the disparity in social standing, it was prohibited to the general public, but it became in style later on. Wig also becomes popular in central Asia and gained its prosperity in the Tang Dynasty which is greatly influenced by the western countries. It is said in the records that the kobal Style had been exceedingly in fashion from the Ju to the Chung Dynasty, and the remains of the Han and Song Dynasty were found.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.4 s.103
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• pp.65-81
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• 2006

This is the study on the costumes of Parthian Period in Persia which had powerful influences on the Occidental and Western cultures in B.C 3 to A.D 3. With different types of Parthian costumes in each period, this study shows what types of costumes people used to wear and how they were co-related with its surrounding cultures. The ancient costumes of Korea had something to do with the elements of the Northern part at that time. To make an intensive study of Korean ancient costumes, these Parthian costumes which are known to those of northern nomadic tribes are studied to provide basis elements for study between the Korean styles and the exotic styles. The basic forms of the Parthian styles were jackets and trousers. They consisted of three kinds of jackets such as those to be adjusted In the front, tunics and coats. As for trousers, they were divided into three types such as those with horizontal pleats, round-side pleats and vertical pleats. 1) The jacket to be adjusted in the front was long enough to reach the hip and fit the body reasonably tight, and its neckline was shaped into V-type. It was a very popular style among the people of high and low classes. 2) The tunics had narrow sleeves. It was a one-piece pattern which reached the knees. It was settled with a belt on the waist. Its neckline was shaped into the round but its slit was not cleat. Its styles were into tight-fit and drapery ones. 3) The coats were almost similar to the jacket to be adjusted in the front with short length, but they were entirely long and open. They appeared later than the short jackets and the people of high class seemed to wear these styles. 4) 1'rousers with horizontal pleats - They had almost horizontal pleats on them, and they were a little tight. They seemed to be the early style in the Parthian period. 5) Trousers with round side-pleats - With saggy side pleats on them, these trousers had round pleats like a drapery style. This pattern was also considered Hellenistic elements shown in the Parthian costumes. The trousers consisted of the underdrawers and the leggings (called salwar or shalwar), which is thought to emphasize its functionality for its wearer to mount a horse with more ease. 6) Trousers with vertical pleats - With straight vertical pleats on them, these trousers had some volumes and bias decorations in the middle of them. These styles were thought to be worn by the ruling class of the Parthia from early to late period.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.29-43
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• 1991

Yu was a type of dress worn on the upper part of the body which was commonly used in Northeast Asia. It was originally used by the Northern race for the need of courtesy as well as protecting cold. It was believed that Yu in Northeast Asia, which was called Kaftan, was came from Scythai lived in North Eurasian land around the Black sea. Scythians were the first-formed horse-riding race in the world and their civilization influenced those of far Asiatic sector along the steppe route. As their power expanded, their costume culture transmitted to the East(China, Korea, Japan). The upper garment, Yu, was characterized by the left-sided collars, narrow sleeves belted at the waist to the length of the hip line and the tight trouser on the lower part, which we commonly called HoBok(胡服) style. 1. Yu in Northeast Asia was originated from the Eurasians, Scythian Culture. Being exchanged, active style costumes were widely used among Chinese, Koreans and Japanese throughout centuries' including $4{\sim}8$ century. 2. Chinese Yu had a style of wide-sleeves and right-sided collars. The traditional costumes of Han race are consisted of wide-sleeved Yu on the upper and long-skirt on the lower part of the body. Before the adoptation of HoBok during reign of King Jo Mooryung in 307. B.C., HoBok style had already found in the remains since the Sang period. There were various names among Yu during the Han period. Seup, Sean Eui, Kye, Kyu were one of the styles and several names were meant for collar and sleeves. During $4{\sim}8$ centuries, clothes of right-sided collar were found, superior to that of left-sided and narrow sleeves were widely used both the royal and the humble. Various styles of decoration were seen in Yu around neck, back and sleeves comparing other nations. 3. Yu, in Korea, was typical style of Northern-bound HoBok. Both men and women had similarity in Yu style, narrow sleeves, left-sided collar, belted at the waist and to the length of hip line. Influenced by Han race, in the $4th{\sim}8th$ centuries, dual system of collar was found. But we cannot see major change in Yu and finally was connected to the present. 4. The original design of the Japanese costumes was not similar to that of Northern nomadic hunting race, which was suitable for horse-riding activities. Owing to the climates along the island, we could see various conditions ranging from the cold and to the warm. Influenced by the climates, pulling over the neck(Pancho style) were major design in Japan. As Korea was advanced earlier than Japan, Korean landed Japanese territory showing clothes. So primitive costumes had changes in style. During the $4th{\sim}8th$ period. The Korean mode was found in Haniwa (which was built to make sacrifices to the dead King) and costumes in Jeong Chang Won. Among the costumes in Jeong Chang Won, we put 3 or more costumes to the category of Yu characterizing elements of Korea and Tang period. From the $4th{\sim}8th$ century, China, Korea, Japan fell into the same cultural category, Scythai. Styles in Yu among three nations, we saw little differences, basically along times. Originated from the West Asia, Yu was transmitted to the far East changing Chinese costumes, Koreans melted it into the traditional elements and then influenced Japan.