• Title/Summary/Keyword: Nomadic Costume

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Scythai's clothing type and style - focusing on the relationship with ancient Korea - (스키타이 복식 유형 및 형태에 관한 연구 - 고대 한국과의 관계를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim, So-Hee;Chae, Keum-Seok
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.20 no.1
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    • pp.61-77
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    • 2018
  • The primary focus of this thesis is to look at Scythai's historical, geographical and ethnologic background in order to understand Scythai's garment types and styles as described in Scythai-related documented records, previous studies and excavated artifacts. Based upon this, another objective lies in comparing and contrasting this information with ancient Korean garments to identify what kind of relationship exists between the two. The result from this study's objectives is summarized as follows. Firstly, ancient Korean and Scythai share similarities in art work, craftwork, accessories and the like, which allows us to make a guess at the relationship between ancient Korea and Scythai of that time. Secondly, Scythai garments are based on the tight and well-fitted Caftan Yugoje, which is tightly fit to the body, as well as including garments similar to the drapery Kiton and Tunic found in ancient Greek garments, from which can be seen that the garment of culture medium passing between the East and the West had nomadic horse-riders' ethnic characteristics and Eurasian characteristics. Thirdly, ancient Korean Scythai garments were found to have homogeneity in their garment culture in that northern nomadic cultural district's Hobok-Goseupje, i.e., open-front Caftan Jeogori and pants called Sangeuihago is its basic with a triangular cone hat shape (transformed hat) and boots, which is the basis for considering that ancient Korea exchanged culture with Scythai, who once lived as active northern nomads. However, it can also be seen that ancient Korea and Scythai garments differed in form depending on region, weather, culture, custom and the like. As such, Scythai and ancient Korea have an aesthetic bond because northern nomads and Scythai exchanged their cultural traits of the times. The evidence supports this idea as it seems that the characteristics of garments that can be considered to be Scythain in style are also commonly discovered in ancient Korean garments.

The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history (중국 소수민족의 복식 연구(1))

  • 박춘순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.26
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    • pp.175-206
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    • 1995
  • The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

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A Study of the 'Hobokko' (I) (호복고 독해 연구(1))

  • Park, Chun-Sun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.7
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    • pp.60-75
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    • 2008
  • A history of Chinese Costume is that of the accept and the struggle between the 'Shen- Yi' of Han(漢) race and 'Ho-Bok' of foreign races. There are the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' in their representative documentary. They are quite significant materials for the researchers of the Oriental costume. The purpose of this study about comparing and analyzing the 'Shen-Yi Ko' and the 'Ho-Bok Ko' give a guidance to Chinese costume's researchers. The results of study are as follows: The 'Shen-Yi', having made a dress joined an upper to the low clothing together(上衣下裳) and deeply covered the parts of all the bodies, was named, had appeared the Spring-Autumn & warring state period(春秋戰國時代) and later the former Han Dynasty(前漢). Not only everyone in spite of men and women, without distinction of rank, high and low alike but also even the court dress(朝服) and from latter Han Dynasty(後漢) only the housewives could have worn it. The 'Shen- Yi Ko' disappeared its records and remains and at present nothing leave behind. The 'Ho-Bok' is a costume of the nomadic horse-riding people among the foreign races, then influenced upon the Chinese costume. The style of the Chinese costume consists of 'Yi Sang'(衣裳) and the 'Ho-bok' of foreign races, 'Yi Ko'(衣袴). The 'Yi Ko'((衣袴), derived from the King Muryoung of Cho Dynasty, had greatly been changed the chinese men's clothing and After that 'Ko Sup'(袴褶). The Chinese have enjoyably and familiarly the accepted 'Ho Bok' for a long time.

The Study on the Scythian Costume II - Focused on the depicted Scythians on Persian Reliefs - (스키타이 복식 연구 II - 페르시아 왕조 부조에 묘사된 스키타이인을 중심으로 -)

  • Yi-Chang, Youngsoo
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.18 no.1
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    • pp.149-168
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    • 2016
  • The Saka were a large group of Eastern Iranian nomadic tribes on the Eurasian Steppe. The sythian figures shown on the Persian reliefs are esteemed as the only empirical material in the range of scythian costume researches. The study of the scythian culture is an important part in the research of possible connections of our cultural roots with this region. The investigation was initiated by the theory, that the korean people emigrated from the Eurasian region, so that their origin can linked to eurasian riding people. The aim of this study is to organize the scythian clothingform in a typological system. This results shall be used as the starting point for research investigating the origin of the korean clothingform. This study refers to data, which has been extracted from reviews of literature, articles and excavation data of German Archaeological Institute. Results of this study are as follows: The basic form of clothing shown on the Persian reliefs is the upperjacket with narrow sleeve and trousers. This basic form is divided into two different types. 1)The median tunicform upperjacket('Sarapis') and median narrow trousers('Anaxsirides'), which is bound with its end shoes. 2)The Scythian 'Cutaway' upperjacket that is cut from the front in the middle to the knee with the diagonal lines and relatively wide trousers. They wore high pointed hats with flaps over ears and the nape of the neck. The first median type is dated from the $6^{th}$ century BC. and the second type can be found on reliefs from the $5^{th}$ century BC. Reliefs. In the meantime appeared a mixed form, namely scythian Jacket and median trousers. From this analysis could be observed that scythian clothingform has changed by median type to the scythian type. The Scythians shown on the Persian reliefs are divided into three group according to the regions where they lived: Saka-paradraya, Saka-tigraxauda, Saka-haumavarga. Clothingstype is different depending on the group. The clothesform is also used as a good parameter to distinguish scythian groups.

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A Study on the Footwear Culture of northeast Asia -Focusing of on wha, hye, lee- (동북아시아 신 문화에 관한 연구-화,해,리를 중심으로-)

  • 이순홍
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.35
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    • pp.135-149
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    • 1997
  • In this thesis the northeast Asian footwear culture are examined,. in order to search the origin It started from the cradle of ancient civilization such as Meospotamia Egypt Indus and ancient China civilization region prior to the northeast Asia. The results are: On account severe intense climates and rough road as well ancient people starts to put the shoes on. Primitive form of ancient footwear put into the two categories: Chinese in the central land begins to put the shoes named Lee. After making contact with nomadic northern races boots named Wha is adopted functionally and taken throughout China. oreans wear the shoes both boots and shoes named Lee. Japanese walked with bare feet and simul-taneously Dagetta was used for rice farming. The changes of footwear is mainly in-fluenced by the factors such as climate con-dition social economic prohibition func-tional elements and aesthetic standards. Cli-mate conditions have influence upon the footwear materials form and foot exposure, The functional elements influenced on the ways of wearing shoes. Decorated patterns and materials of footwear is under the influnece of social economic prohibition and also affected by aesthetic standards(Tab 1-4) In accordance with pattern function materials of footwear the type and characteristics of footwear in China Korea nd japan came out with diversity(Tab 5-9)

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Body Modification in Fashion Illustrations Based on the Theory of 'Corps sans Organes' of Deleuze (들뢰즈의 기관 없는 신체론에 기반한 현대 패션일러스트레이션의 신체특성)

  • Lee, Jee-Hyun
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.61 no.9
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    • pp.27-38
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    • 2011
  • This study focused on the body modification in fashion illustration based on 'Corps sans Organes' of Deleuze. An argument about the changes of ideal body to define the aesthetic consciousness of times has lasted for a long time. Therefore, analyzing body modification in fashion illustration to express the ideal beauty could be effective motives to understand the changes of ideal bodies related with socio-cultural meanings, and be helpful to understand the overall trends of modern fashion illustration. To classify the types of body modification, the concept of 'Corps sans Organes' of Deleuze was used as an analyzing tool. As the final result, the characteristics of body modification could be divided into three groups; the fragmentation of bodies, the pastiche of bodies, and the abstraction of bodies. First, in the fragmentation of bodies, which is related with flexibility, pluralism, and subjective views on body, the bodies were separated as molecules. Second, the elements of pastiche of bodies could be subdivided into five sub-groups; sex, plants, animals, texts and figure, and machines. The pastiche of bodies was used to extend the limitation of human capabilities and to reinterpret the human identities. Last, the abstraction of bodies based on contingency, indeterminacy, and subjective associations could be related with the nomadic and indefinite body images. The body modification could be considered as the context of nomadism, indeterminacy, and virtuality of modern-times, and it would be the basic data to understand the body modification in fashion illustrations.

A Study on the Hair Ornaments in the Period of the Three Kingdom States (삼국시대 머리 장신구에 대한 연구)

  • 김문자
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.9 no.5
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    • pp.712-722
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    • 2001
  • The purpose of this study is to classify of the Hair ornaments in old tombs of the Three Kingdom States. Hair ornaments was divided into Combs, Rod-like hairpins, Chae[;釵], Boyo[;步搖] Combs were 2 type in according to the tooth's space, wide-tooth comb[;梳] and fine-tooth comb(;比). The general name of two type was called Jeul(;櫛). Combs were excavated from the only ancient Silla tombs. Rod-like hairpins were called Gha(叉) or Jam(:簪). They were found in most of the old tombs in Goauryeo, Baekje, ancient Silla tombs. The style was L-type and embellished circular head-type. Chae(;釵) was understand Cha(:叉) that had two tongs. Chae(:釵) was generally U-type and rarely hairtweezers -type. Jakchae(;爵釵) was understand distinctive Chae(;釵) hanged with phoenix. This type was excavated from the only Baekje tombs of King of Muryeong. Boyo(;步搖) was originally a hair decoration of the northern nomadic tribes which had been introduced to the Wijin period. Boyo gained its popularity by the women in Dang Dynasty, hair ornaments were considered indicators of status and wealth. Boyo(;步搖) hair accessory features of which are suspended from a elaborate hairpin structure. Such pieces were designed to sway as their wearer walked. The bequest was not found, but we catch the Boyo(; 步搖) that was women'head decoration in painting of old tombs in Goguryeo.

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A Study of Ku -based on Chosun dynasty - (갖옷에 관한 연구-조선시대를 중심으로-)

  • 정복남
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.23
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    • pp.67-77
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    • 1994
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the origin of ku and changes of styles from ancient times to recent times. It will contribute to recent times . It will contribute the correct understanding of the historical change of clothing materials. For this study historical comparative method were utilized using documentary records and relic of ku. The results of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The fur clothes were the first clothes that human beings put on in order to protect human body against the cold. Ku was widely worn by many people in Asia dynasty. ku was an out fit for protection against the cold and it was made of animal fur. 2. The ancient times, the northern part of korean peninsular and Manchus were the mainfield of action of korean people. At this time, koreans preferred the ho-bok that the nomadic tribe used put on. But the territiory of unified Silla was limited to the southern part of korean peninsular, and it be supposed that ku was preferred only in a certain local community and social class. In Chosun dynasty , ku was also adopted as garment for protection against cold. During Sung-Zong and Chung -Zong era it was so popularized that both men and women in noble class preferred it. But in latter part of Chosun dynasty government worned the nation against extravagance in living, ku lots its popurality and it was modified into another garments such as gotzaugori, baeza and magoza.

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A Study on the Ancient Excavated Clothing in Xinjiang (新疆의 古代 出土服飾에 관한 硏究)

  • 김용문
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.4 no.2
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    • pp.187-206
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    • 1996
  • The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.

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A study on the Scythian costume (스키타이계(係) 복식(服飾)에 대(對)한 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Moon-Ja
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.11 no.4
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    • pp.204-220
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    • 2007
  • The background of Korean Ethnical Costume was originated from those northern mounted nomadic groups, which was Scythe style Costume Culture. Through the antique records and paintings of tombs bequests hereby describe the forms of Scythian Cotume (1) Headgear : There was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap, and Crown. (2) Clothes : Both Men and Women wore Jacket as upper garment with leftsided collars, narrow sleeves to the length of the hip line. As lower garment, they wore the tight Trousers and Kungo(:窮袴)that was attached with gusset. (3) Belts and Boots : On the upper garment bound the leather Belts that was hanged a hook that was shaped of animal form at the end. Scythian Buckles was divided into six groups, animal-shaped, animal's head shaped, animal fight-shaped, rectangle-shaped, rectangle openwork-shaped, genre scene shaped Buckle. To the Boots, they wore leather boots. (4) Ornaments : Ornaments divided into Dress Trimming(:Gold plaques), Earrings, Necklaces(;Torques), Bracelets, Rings. Scythian Gold Plaques were divided into several types according to the shape, animal style(curved beast shape, profile shape, head reversed over its back shape), round shape, quadrilateral form, star shape, flower shape, crescent shape, bundle shape, human appearance. Earrings consisted of a plain ring and pendant ring was a middle ornament hung from it to a pendants which hung was made of heart shaped leaves of the tree, beads-linked. Scythian Torques were divided into several types according to the shape, Torque with Terminal style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crescent-shaped pectoral style, Crown style. Scythian Bracelet were divided into 4 styles according to the shape, Bracelets with ends shaped like beasts style, Spiral style, Layers style, Crown with openwork style. Rings were rhomb-shaped and animal shaped styleRings (5) Animal motifs used in Scythian ornaments appears that in some cases the work was intended to be purely ornamental, while many times the motifs had symbolic meaning (such as the successful dominance of the aggressor over the victim portrayed in the attack scenes). Magical use of symbols may have been inten-ded to guarantee the power of the aggressor.