• Title/Summary/Keyword: Nineteenth century

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A Study on Glamour Look Expressed in Fashion (Part I) (현대패션에 표현된 글래머 룩에 관한 연구 (제1보))

  • Hahn, Soo-Yeon;Yang, Sook-Hi
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.30 no.8
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    • pp.1288-1300
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    • 2006
  • Glamour in fashion, which stands for attractive physical feature with certain mystique, has been used without accurate analysis thereof. This thesis is purported to provide comprehensive study of glamour in fashion and to contemplate glamour look reflected in fashion history, thereby to establish the styles of glamour expressed in fashion trends and to provide the basis which can be utilized in the categorical basis of fashion design. For such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the glamour in fashion, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The glamour expressed in the fashion design can be classified into the following six aesthetic values: luxury, excess, masquerade, appropriation, sensuality and decadence. In the modern history, glamour looks in fashion design started out as so-called Blooming Age Glamour Look, dating from the late nineteenth century to the late 1920s, which was represented by luxurious haute couture style of courtesans. Thereafter Golden Age Glamour Look appeared in the movie costumes in the Hollywood from the late 1920s to mid-1950s. Sensuality, decadence and masquerade are the central features. Subsequently, Pop Age Glamour Look appeared with fashion styles of pop stars, which can be characterized by appropriation and excess. In the 1980s and the 1990s, Glamour Renaissance Look appeared as glamour looks which were spread out to people in various classes, which is characterized by luxury and appropriation. Based upon the foregoing historical survey, there are four representative styles in glamour looks, including (1) luxury glamour derived from Blooming Age Glamour Look, (2) hyperfeminine glamour derived from Golden Age Glamour Look, (3) kitsch glamour derived from Pop Age Glamour Look, and (4) romantic glamour derived from Glamour Renaissance Look.

National Development and Regionalism in Spain (스페인의 국가발전과 지역주의)

  • Ahn, Young-Jin
    • Journal of the Korean association of regional geographers
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    • v.7 no.3
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    • pp.1-13
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    • 2001
  • This paper is to examine what implications the regionalism in Spain has for its national development during the last two centuries. Since the beginning of the nineteenth century the regionalism (including territorial nationalisms in periphery) has played a central role in the history of Spanish state-formation. On the one hand, a strong regional identity was related to a structural weakness affecting Spanish nation-building and accused of forging the separatist national movements in the Basque, Catatonia Galicia and so on. On the other hand, the regionalism has contributed to enforcing the Spanish national consciousness in complex and contradictory ways. Therefore, on the contrary to our common understandings of regionalism, the Spanish regionalism has both enforced and counteracted the Spanish nationalism. In the late 1970s after the collapse of Franco regime, the long history of the Spanish regionalism resulted in a state system based on the regional political decentralization.

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Ultrasonic characterization of exhumed cast iron water pipes

  • Groves, Paul;Cascante, Giovanni;Knight, Mark
    • Smart Structures and Systems
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    • v.7 no.4
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    • pp.241-262
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    • 2011
  • Cast iron pipe has been used as a water distribution technology in North America since the early nineteenth century. The first cast iron pipes were made of grey cast iron which was succeeded by ductile iron as a pipe material in the 1940s. These different iron alloys have significantly different microstructures which give rise to distinct mechanical properties. Insight into the non-destructive structural condition assessment of aging pipes can be advantageous in developing mitigation strategies for pipe failures. This paper examines the relationship between the small-strain and large-strain properties of exhumed cast iron water pipes. Nondestructive and destructive testing programs were performed on eight pipes varying in age from 40 to 130 years. The experimental program included microstructure evaluation and ultrasonic, tensile, and flexural testing. New applications of frequency domain analysis techniques including Fourier and wavelet transforms of ultrasonic pulse velocity measurements are presented. A low correlation between wave propagation and large-strain measurements was observed. However, the wave velocities were consistently different between ductile and grey cast iron pipes (14% to 18% difference); the ductile iron pipes showed the smaller variation in wave velocities. Thus, the variation of elastic properties for ductile iron was not enough to define a linear correlation because all the measurements were practically concentrated in single cluster of points. The cross-sectional areas of the specimens tested varied as a result of minor manufacturing defects and levels of corrosion. These variations affect the large strain testing results; but, surface defects have limited effect on wave velocities and may also contribute to the low correlations observed. Lamb waves are typically not considered in the evaluation of ultrasonic pulse velocity. However, Lamb waves were found to contribute significantly to the frequency content of the ultrasonic signals possibly resulting in the poor correlations observed. Therefore, correlations between wave velocities and large strain properties obtained using specimens manufactured in the laboratory must be used with caution in the condition assessment of aged water pipes especially for grey cast iron pipes.

Early Architecture of A. Dixon and Art and Craft Quality (건축가 A. 딕슨의 초기작품에 나타난 예술과 공예운동의 특성)

  • Hwangbo, A.B.
    • Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
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    • v.20 no.3
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    • pp.263-268
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    • 2019
  • This article intends to shed a light on the British architect Arthur S. Dixon (1856-1929). He is largely regarded as a pioneer of the English Art and Craft Movement, yet his works are not widely known nor carefully studied. In search of Dixon's architectural characteristics, this paper examined three notable buildings that he designed at the turn of the nineteenth century; Birmingham Guildhall, St. Andrews church and St. Basil's Church. These buildings were erected relatively early in his career as an architect, although he never fully immersed into the profession due to his commitment in family business management. His architectural design shows unique qualities of Art and Craft movement in terms of use of material, spatial arrangement, techniques, and craftsmanship while employing Romanesque as most relevant historic style for ecclesiastical purposes.

The Concept of Religion: Why It Matters and its Methodological History. What Questions are Posed to Us by "Their" Studies? ('종교'를 묻는 까닭과 그 질문의 역사: 그들의 물음은 우리에게 어떤 문제를 던지는가?)

  • Jang, Sukman
    • The Critical Review of Religion and Culture
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    • no.22
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    • pp.15-50
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    • 2012
  • This paper consists of two parts. The first part presents a review of academic studies on the concept of religion in Western countries; why the subject matters and how it has been discussed and evaluated. The second part contains a self-reflection of the conceptual analyses of religion from the Korean point of view; how we evaluate "their" studies and an attempt to understand the more than one hundred years of reception of the concept of religion in Korea. The idea of religion is an important part of the modern "map" that Korean society was obliged to accept in the middle of its crisis during the second half of the nineteenth century. Examining this process and the context of its reception can help to understand our intellectual and religious heritage. In this vein, it is of primary importance to consider how the modern concept of "Jonggyo" is different from the traditional concept of "Gyo".

The Country and the City: A Socio-Historical Reading of "Michael" (도시와 시골-워즈워드의 「마이클」의 경우)

  • Shin, Yangsook
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.57 no.1
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    • pp.27-49
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    • 2011
  • This article proposes to stay away from contemporary critical arguments concerning Michael's value system, which is construed mainly from his choice between his patrimonial lands and his son Luke. Presuming that Michael's value system as have been argued so far could never be the poet Wordsworth's own concern at the time of the composition of the poem "Michael," this article proposes to get back to the all too real socio-historical situation of the early nineteenth-century England. Mere consideration of the socio-historical situation, when combined with a close reading of the poetic text (a close reading of both the poetic story and the poetic history from which the story may be said to have been constructed), directs us to the poet working on the simple paradigm of 'the country and the city at war with each other' but the victory having been given to the city already. The guarantee contract for a supposedly prospering nephew's debt and the letter from another prospering relative in London are undoubtedly the key elements that lead us to the war paradigm. Michael's family members, each and all including Michael himself, and all of their village people, have been imbued with the city's commercial values, which renders them all the more easier victims within the war context. Luke's defeat in the city is viewed as being really the consequence, rather than the cause, of Michael's defeat, which became apparent as soon as the news of the latter's financial disaster reached his ear. Michael should therefore be regarded as one of the typical English countryfolk of the time, with whom Wordsworth often, but not always, identifies himself. Insofar as the economic view or attitude is concerned, there certainly is a distance between Michael and Wordsworth, this article argues.

The Americanization of a Canadian National Icon Anne of Green Gables (캐나다의 국가적 아이콘 『빨강머리 앤』의 미국화)

  • Kang, Suk Jin
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.54 no.4
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    • pp.561-577
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    • 2008
  • L.M. Montgomery's Anne of Green Gables is not only confidently labelled a Canadian classic but also placed as a national icon along with the moose, the beaver, and the Habs in Canada. Anne's 'Canadianness' is partly due to its location in the rural world of Prince Edward Island. The fictional Avonlea is described as the ideal space where Canadian spirit can interact with the personified surrounding landscapes through Celtic imagination. Additionally, the communal bond of Avonlea fully demonstrates Scottish Canadian identities. The Scottish national character of Avonlea is responsible for clannishness of the Cuthberts and the Lyndes. The disrespect to the French is also due to Scottish heritage in Avonlea. As an outsider Anne wants to be integrated into the community of Avonlea, and successfully adapts herself to the regional shared values. Meanwhile she partly challenges the strictness and rigidness of the born Canadian Avonlea residents. Despite its Canadian origin, Anne of Green Gables is accepted as part of the American canon of children's literature in the Unite States. The configuration of Anne as an American heroine is noticeable among American scholars: by relocating it to the US the female Bildungsroman in the nineteenth century America, a group of literary critics adapt Anne as an American girl for American readers. The heroine of Anne of Green Gables is linked to American novels such as Louisa May Alcott's Little Women, Kate Douglas Wiggin's Rebecca of Sunnybrook Farm and Gene Stratten Porter's A Girl of the Limberlost. Anne is even classified as another Caddie by American literary critics: Anne is placed at the center of Caddie Woodlawn Syndrome as another Wisconsin pioneer child. Canadian identity of Anne is intentionally excluded and Anne was reborn as an American girl in the U.S. In this context, Anne functions as a sign of nation and a site for cross-national identity formation.

Korean Modern Army Physical Education through Thought Liang, qi-chao (양계초(梁溪超) 사상(思想)을 통해서 본 한국 근대 군(軍) 체육사상(體育思想))

  • Nam, duck-hyun
    • (The)Study of the Eastern Classic
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    • no.66
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    • pp.277-301
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    • 2017
  • The modern political scientist Liang, qi-chao (1873-1929), who insisted on the richness of China, was a major axis of Korean intellectuals in the nineteenth century. His patriotism for Chinese reconstruction oppressed by Western powers has greatly influenced Korea 's will to build a modern nation. There was military power and physical education at the center of Liang, qi-chao thought. He emphasized military strength through military strength with a strong stamina, so he mentioned the necessity of military and physical education. Based on the idea of this kind of Liang, qi-chao, the korean intellectuals believed that the Korean people should be born healthy through physical education. The initial introduction of physical education in Korea was integrated with the Military Sports. For the first time, Being introduced Western Sports in 1895, The fact that the army athletic gymnastics was first introduced into school education in 1896 proves this oneness. Moreover, Ethnic scholars continued to focus on fostering strong nationality through physical education based on the spirit of Liang, qi-chao, and was emphasizing the gymnastics of the military sportsman at the central idea.

Modern Control of Space and the British Empire's Management of Irish Territory (공간의 근대적 규율과 영국 제국의 아일랜드 영토 경영)

  • Lee, Sungbum
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.57 no.4
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    • pp.553-580
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    • 2011
  • This article addresses how the British Empire administered the discipline of space in nineteenth century Ireland. Space control is a part of modern disciplinary practices. I approach this issue in light of the two modern mapping of space: the geometric mapping of space and the Romantic mapping of space. The former, as seen in map-making, is characterized by imposing a standardized, stratified grid on space by eliminating local characteristics of nature. On the other hand, the latter, as shown in picturesque landscaping, aims to balance a close-up observation of nature and a far-sighted view of it, with the result of creating an ironic tension of local diversity and perspectival totality. These modern disciplinary projects of space repeat themselves in the British management of the colonized Irish territory. As the British conquer other lands, they put to good use both geometric and Romantic disciplinary methods of space. Supervising the Ordnance Survey of Ireland from 1824 to 1846, Thomas Frederick Colby, British Director of Ordnance Survey, made a mathematically strict and scientific mapping of Ireland as a scale of six inches to one mile. Parallelled to this geometric colonization of space, the Romantic colonization of space is efficiently used for the Empire's management of Ireland as well. British tourists and pro-unionist Anglo-Irish landed gentries transform it into the nature of picturesque beauty; Ireland's wild boglands turn aesthetically into desolate but beautiful scenery. Picturesque landscape in England is reborn as an aesthetics of desolation in Ireland.

Going Wilde: Prendick, Montgomery and Late-Victorian Homosexuality in The Island of Doctor Moreau

  • Canadas, Ivan
    • Journal of English Language & Literature
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    • v.56 no.3
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    • pp.461-485
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    • 2010
  • The present paper focuses on a specific aspect of H. G. Wells' The Island of Doctor Moreau (1896), namely the issue of homosexuality, particularly as it concerns Prendick, the novel's primary narrator, and Montgomery, Moreau's assistant on the island, both of whom are implicitly associated with homosexual identity-and suggested to represent various forms of repression or acceptance-their personalities, or psyche, explored in relation to other characters on Moreau's island, particularly the Beast Folk, as well as Doctor Moreau and his treatment of the creatures as an allegory of Victorian anti-sodomy legislation and its most celebrated victim, Oscar Wilde, who had been convicted for male sodomy in 1895, only months prior to the original publication of The Island of Doctor Moreau. In addition, this paper examines an extensive series of allusions to Oscar Wilde and to late-Victorian homosexual scandals, including that author's own conviction, allusions to others involved in the affair-some of which involve situational/plot analogies, while others involve echoes or semantic associations between the names of characters in Moreau and historical figures-as well as allusions and parallels involving the most recognizably biographical of Wilde's works, The Picture of Dorian Gray (1890). The deliberate, complex web of allusions and ironic implications of homosexuality, presented in this essay, thus, expands considerably upon existing scholarly work on a range of matters concerning homosexual identity and conduct within the context of social conventions and legislation in the late-Victorian period, as well as more broadly, in scientific and humanistic terms. In this respect, one key aspect of this essay is the exploration of the novel's setting of Noble's Island, which, among other things, includes topographical allusions to nineteenth-century scientific theories of anatomical anomalies in pederasts-namely those of the eminent French forensic medical scientist, Ambroise Tardieu (1818-1879), whose underlying framework of physiological adaptation, moreover, intersected with the scientific interests of Wells and of his protagonist. Beyond this, it is shown that, in Moreau, there is as a web of allusions to homosexual practice and those same anomalies, involving the character of Montgomery and his name.