• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.81-95
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to analyze the newtro fashion style and extract key descriptive terms for visual image evaluation based on the style. To achieve this, a literature review, case study, and survey were conducted. The results are as follows: 1) Newtro fashion exhibited a variety of styles depending on the items being considered. In particular, the windbreaker style is composed of windbreakers, sweatshirts, and training pants, the blazer style consists of blazers, sweatshirts, and denim pants, and the padding style is characterized by short padding, sweatshirts, and jogger pants. 2) A total of 28 terms were identified as vocabulary to represent the visual images of newtro fashion. Among these, 17 terms appeared with a frequency of 30 or more times across the three styles. Commonly used terms included 'emotional', 'desirable', 'empathetic', 'unique', 'moody', 'retro', 'sophisticated', 'stylish', 'vintage', 'confident', 'youthful', 'trendy', and 'modern'. 3) By examining terms with a frequency of 50 times or more, the visual images associated with each style were compared. For the windbreaker style, the newtro fashion image was predominantly described as 'desirable', 'youthful', 'modern', 'stylish', and 'emotional'. The blazer style was associated with 'retro', 'unconventional', 'stylish', 'trendy', 'empathetic', 'modern', 'intricate', and 'unique'. In the padding style, the newtro fashion image was characterized as 'youthful', 'intricate', 'cute', 'stylish', 'modern', 'unique', and 'confident'.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.19-28
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• 2020

This study investigated the annual frequency and clothing type by extracting puff sleeves designs from overseas fashion collections from S/S and F/W 2017 to S/S and F/W 2019. Specifically, it analyzed production characteristics and pattern methods by the type of puff sleeve design, and found the following: In terms of the percentage of puff sleeves by season, S/S 2019 was the highest. Since Newtro, with a 1990s sensitivity, was the mainstream trend during the S/S 2019, power puff sleeves, a signature of the Newtro style, accounted for the greatest portion of this design feature. In terms of the type of clothes with puff sleeves, 'dress' (54.3%) was the highest, followed by 'shirts/blouse' (27.5%), 'jacket/coat' (12.5%), and 'padded coat/jacket' (5.7%). Specifically, puff sleeve patterns were found mostly in the 'dress' category, more than 47% every season, while the figures were more than 23%, 9.3%, and 2.6% in 'shirts/blouse', 'jacket/coat' and 'padded coat/jacket', respectively. In other words, puff sleeve designs were more common in 'dress' or 'shirts/blouse' than in a 'padded coat/jacket'. In general, the shoulder length is reduced to prevent the shoulders from looking broader because of puffs. In contrast, recent puff-sleeve styles differ from those introduced by modern fashion designers in that they have drop shoulders with puffs attached. Furthermore, as constructive and over-exaggerated sleeve patterns appeared, puffs were applied to diverse sleeve styles including mutton leg and Mameluke styles. The analysis results of this study will contribute to the development of the fashion industry through small quantity batch production pursuing unique styles and serve as the basis for further studies on the configuration methods of puff sleeves. This study will be used in various ways, including as educational material on sleeve patterns. Through the analysis of sleeve patterns, this study tries to provide basic data for planning the design of puff sleeves and helping to diversify the ladies' apparel market in the future.

• Journal of the Korea Convergence Society
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• v.11 no.12
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• pp.113-123
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• 2020

In this paper, big data analysis was conducted for past and present fashion trends and fashion cycle. We focused on daily look for ordinary people instead of the fashion professionals and fashion show. Using the social matrix tool, Textom, we performed frequency analysis, N-gram analysis, network analysis and structural equivalence analysis on the big data containing fashion trends and cycles. The results are as follows. First, this study extracted the major key words related to fashion trends for the daily look from the past(1980s, 1990s) and the present(2019 and 2020). Second, the frequence analysis and N-gram analysis showed that the fashion cycle has shorten to 30-40 years. Third, the structural equivalence analysis found the four representative clusters. The past four clusters are jean, retro codi, athleisure look, celebrity retro and the present clusters are retro, newtro, lady chic, retro futurism. Fourth, through the network analysis and N-gram analysis, it turned out that the past fashion is reproduced and evolves to the current fashion with certain reasoning.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.5
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• pp.789-804
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• 2022

Retro fashion is emerging among young people as an approach to discovering a new meaning in Korea's historical culture. Research on Korea's unique retro fashion culture is required because there is no research on retro fashion culture based on Korea's historical background. Therefore, this study examined how retro fashion culture has progressed based on Korea's historical background from a nostalgic perspective. All retro-related newspaper articles from 1950 to 2020 were collected, and content analysis was conducted for each semantic unit. The results revealed that personal nostalgia is based on personal experience and is extending to younger generations. In terms of nostalgia in interpersonal relationships, the younger generation reinterpreted the fashion culture of the older generation after the 2010s. In terms of vicarious nostalgia, a retro culture reminiscent of the 1990s with a background in economic development and consumption culture appeared after 2012. The youth culture and university culture of the 1970s and 1980s were reinterpreted as street fashion. Since the late 2010s, the younger generation has been exhibiting cultural nostalgia, believing that the historical Korean culture is not outdated but has a unique heritage formed during the modernization process. Symbolic nostalgia appeared in Korean fashion culture during modernization.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.28 no.4
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• pp.429-445
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• 2020

The purpose of this study is to provide ideas for the development of bag design by analyzing the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe given the newtro trend pursuing analog sensitivity in modern society. The methods and scope of this study are as follows. First, the related literature and internet data were reviewed in order to examine the expression types and characteristics of the bags of the West and East. Next, the definition and characteristics of tassel and fringe decoration in terms of the history of clothing were analyzed. Finally, the expression types and aesthetic formativeness of tassels and fringe were derived through the analysis of modern bag design shown in the fashion collections since 2010. The bags decorated with the tassels and fringe bring a variety of visual effects depending on the attachment position, direction and material composition, concentrating the gaze and radiating original style. In this study, the expression of tassels and fringe in modern bag design was classified into three types: surface decoration, shape variability, and object combination. Next, the aesthetic formativeness of modern bag design using tassels and fringe as decorative elements appeared through the mixture of heterogeneous materials and playfulness through imagination, exaggeration through extension of length and volume, and retro characteristics through reinterpretation of tradition. This study is expected to contribute to creative ideas of modern bag design which requires a global sense, which has been used in various cultures for a long time.