• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.1-10
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• 2008

Yellow, one of the five direction colors, is a prevailing color in artificial dyeing. The color has implied and symbolized wealth and power since ancient times. Yellow has been extracted mainly from flowers. Shapes, colors and scents of flowers not only have enriched emotional mentality, but have also been used for medicinal herbs, and dyestuff since the very old days. Coloring matter from flowers is very beautiful, and it has been used for dyeing textiles. Textile dyeing have formed a color culture and developed a dyeing culture since ancient times. Flowers include a variety of color matters, and can be easily obtained around us. Therefore, flowers have been a widespread natural dyestuff. It is well known that beautiful colors can be extracted from flowers, which are eco-friendly and non-polluting. In addition, flowers are easily provided. In this study, yellow wild flowers were selected as subjects. Seven flowers with color matters distiguishable through the naked eye were used: Korean forsythia, golden-wave, Mongolian dandelion, sunflower, conflower, chelidonium and chrysanthemum. Coloring matters were extracted from the seven flowers, which have been used to create a variety of colors through various dyestuffs; and the colors have been analyzed and presented. Dyeing and coloring matters were tested and analyzed, and several types of dyestuff had also been scientifically measured after treatment.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.43 no.2
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• pp.288-296
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• 2019

This study examined the proper dyeing conditions, color fastness and functionality for wool fabrics dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extract. FT-IR and UV-Vis spectrum analysis showed that tannin and flavonoids were contained in the extracted colorant. The dyeing of wool fabrics using Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf was good without pretreatment or mordant treatment. Optimal dyeing conditions for wool fabrics were a colorant concentration of 70%(v/v), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 100 minutes and dyebath pH of 5.8. Color fastness of dyed wool fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration was good, whereas light was grade 3. The UV protection rate and deodorization rate of wool fabrics dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf improved. Reduction rate of Staphylococcus aureus/Klebsiella pneumoniae were excellent at 99.9%. Therefore, it was confirmed that Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf can be used as environ-mentally friendly natural dye.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.331-336
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• 2017

Bacteria exist everywhere and continuously come into contact with daily surroundings and humans. Super bacterium methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, resistant to methicillin, has recently appeared. The morbidity and rate of death associated with super bacteria infection has increased. This study investigated the antibacterial activity of fabrics naturally dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves extract against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus. Fabrics were left for 15 min in a natural dyeing solution prepared by extraction from C. obtusa leaves using 11.3% (o.w.f) with a fixed liquor ratio of 1:22 at $40^{\circ}C$. The dyeing process was conducted using three different mordants; subsequently, the K/S value of the dyed fabrics increased in the order of None < Cu < Fe < Al. The color fastness property of the fabrics to washing, dry-cleaning, and rubbing was found to be excellent and ranked in the 4-5 grade. The color fastness to light of natural dyeing is low in most cases and has the problem that the dye color soon becomes bleached. Yet, in most cases cloth dyed with retinispora leaves, the color fastnezz to light was good with a third to fourth grade. Non-mordant fabrics, aluminum mordants, and copper mordants also showed better antibacterial properties (99.9% reduction) against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, compared to the control fabrics. The dyed fabrics showed the same antibacterial activity even after three washes. The results highlight the strong potential of fabrics naturally dyed with C. obtusa-extract as a medicinal material with excellent antibacterial function against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.403-412
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• 2010

This study was aimed to consider the influence of hue-tone, dyes, and mordants of naturally dyed silk fabric on color sensibility image factors and to establish color sensibility image scales of naturally dyed silk fabric by color and image descriptors. By single or sequential dyeing with various natural dyes commercially available in domestic and foreign market on the same silk fabric, a total of 66 colored fabric stimuli were prepared and they were used to evaluate subjective color sensibility image by 40 participants. As results, four different color sensibility image factors for naturally dyed silk fabric, 'delight', 'natural', 'modern' and 'attractive' were extracted. All of factors were significantly influenced by hue-tone, dyes, and mordants. Furthermore, by using color sensibility image adjectives and colors, multidimensional image scales were established, which leads to the conclusions that the results of this study help to design color sensibility-oriented naturally dyed fabric and apparel products.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.224-232
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• 2010

The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.

• Plant Resources
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.206-209
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Mentha arvensis Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Mentha arvensis Herba has been used as a Korean medicine. It is effective in headache and stress. It is also good as a aphtha and in treating cold. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Mentha arvensis Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Second, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Mentha arvensis Herba has an efficiency in removing aphtha and in treating cold. So it is considered that Mentha arvensis Herba can be applied effectively to headache and stress.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.778-789
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $40^{\circ}C$ and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $90^{\circ}C$. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.