• Journal of the Korean Wood Science and Technology
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• v.48 no.2
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• pp.154-165
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• 2020

To assign the functionality of the regenerated fiber from waste MDF(wMDF) made of pitch pine, we examined the dyeing characteristics of natural dyes, sappan wood as a polychromatic natural red series, monochromatic gardenia as a yellow series, and indigo blue series. For nonemordanting dye, the colors of regenerated fiber dyed by sappan wood and gardenia were reddish yellow (YR) and yellow (Y) series, respectively, and dyeing conditions were appropriate a 30 ~ 50 g/L of dyeing materials at 60 ℃ for 60minutes of dyeing time. We obtained regenerated woody dyed fibers (Re-WDF), YR to the red (R) series by premordanting with Al and Cu mordant for sappan wood and the purplish red (RP) series by Fe premordanting. In the case of gardenia, only Y series colors were developed in nonemordanting dye or all three mordants. Indigo dye produced Re-WDF with greenish yellow (GY) tone at 1%, green (G) tone at 3%, and blue (B) tone at 5% concentration or more. Re-WDF with indigo showed the best light fastness followed by sappan wood and gardenia. In particular, the light fastness of Re-WDF with gardenia was very poor. The light fastness was somewhat improved by premordanting(Fe>Cu>Al) both sappan wood and gardenia dyes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.859-867
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to identify the focus of key issues - the view, the trouble, supplementary measures and future divection research, and commercialization${\cdot}$ popularization on natural dyeing. Delphi tests were performed with 36 professional in the academic, the industrial, and the art world. Questionnaire of 1round composed of open-ended question related the view, the trouble, supplementary measures and future divection research and commercialization${\cdot}$popularization. And a 5 point Likert Scale was used to evaluate them in 2 and 3 round. Results of this study and the order of importance in the focus of key issues are as following: The trouble are immoral business ability, using of excessive mordant and lack of standardization. Supplementary measures and future divection research are dyer education, choosing stuff on natural dyeing and consumer education${\cdot}$publicity. And commercialization${\cdot}$popularization are the development of brand, the production of specific goods by regional groups, high-grade articles and the certification system in quality.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• v.30 no.2
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• pp.76-81
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• 2012

In this study the natural colorant was extracted from black bean seed coat in aqueous solution and used to dye silk and cotton fabrics. To obtain the optimal dyeing conditions it was examined at various dyeing condition (temperature, pH, time and liquor ratio). The dyeing behavior and the depths of shade which were evaluated in terms of K/S and CIELAB color difference values of the dyed and mordanted fabrics were also investigated. The dyeing fastness evaluated standard light and wash fastness tests. The obtained results were as follows ; The most K/S value of silk and cotton fabrics were obtained when the pH was 4.0 and 4.8, respectively and it increased slightly with dyeing time passes when the dyeing temperatures were at $40^{\circ}C$ and $60^{\circ}C$ but, it increased at $80^{\circ}C$. The color of silk fabrics changed from yellowish red to yellow at only Fe mordanting among various mordanting. Sn and Ti mordanting of silk fabric and only Ni mordanting of cotton fabric increased the $L^*$ values, but the others decreased. The light fastness of silk fabrics showed 4-6 grade without mordant, 4-5 grade with Al, 3-4 grade with Cu and Sn, and 2-3 grade with Fe as mordant, and that of cotton fabrics showed 1-2 grade without mordant, 2-3 grade with Fe, 2 grade with Cu, 1-2 grade with Al and Sn as mordants. All mordanting coluld not improve the light fastness of fabrics. Washing fastness(fade) of silk fabrics showed 2 grade without mordants and 2-3 grade with mordants and those of cotton fabrics showed 4 grade with Cu, 3 grade without mordant and with Al, Sn and Fe. All of the washing fastness(stain) of both fabrics showed 4-5 grade.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.3-14
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• 2016

This study is aimed to measure the physical colorimetric property according to three conditions, natural dyestuffs (Gardenia, Sappan wood, Lac, Gardenia blue, Mugwort, and Indigo), fabric types (cotton, silk), and presence of mordant (without, with), and then to evaluate the psychological sensibility. Also, to perform analysis of variance (ANOVA) to find out the differences of physical properties according to the three natural dyeing conditions, and to analyze the relationship between physical property and psychological property by Pearson's correlation analysis and then suggest the prediction model by regression analysis using SPSS program (ver. 21.0). Finally, to propose a certain sensibility image map of naturally dyed fabrics, MDS (Multidimensional Scaling) was used, and as a result, Gardenia dyed fabrics having the color sensibilities such as 'hard' and 'heavy' were suggested to evoke masculine image, and to evoke feminine image, Sappan wood and Lac having 'bright', 'transparent', 'soft' and 'light' sensibilities were suggested. Natural image might be induced by using 'subdued' Mugwort dyed fabrics, and active image might be induced by using 'showy' Indigo dyed fabric.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.29 no.4
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• pp.268-275
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• 2017

As the substitute of synthetic coloring materials for hair dyeing, we selected some natural ones of three primary colors such as sappan wood, logwood(red), gardenia blue(blue) and amur cork tree(yellow). Mixed colorants and metallic mordanting technique were used to widen the color space of dyed samples. In view of similarity in morphological and chemical structure, wool was adopted as the reference material for human hair to evaluate the color properties of hair dyeing. The color properties of the dyed samples were evaluated by using CIE $L^*a^*b^*$ and Munsell color systems. The addition of an alum or ferrous mordants was effective to expand the color space of hair and to increase the colorfastness to washing and light more than the rating of 1. Displaying the dyed samples by using Munsell color system, better linearity of hue values between the dyed samples of wool and human hair was shown when alum mordant was used.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.21 no.1
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• pp.166-176
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• 2017

This study is fundamental research on how to be able to scientifically quantify and reproduce a natural dyeing procedure. By dyeing silk fabrics, the establishment of a reproducible dyeing method was sought. Juglans mandshurica has been known as one of the most widely used black vegetable dyes. Repetition conditions and combination dyeing were performed with Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts to express a deep black color. Juglans mandshurica cortex, gallnut, clove, and Eclipta prostrata L. extracts were suitable for black coloration and showed a darker black color when combined with iron mordant. Specifically, Juglans mandshurica cortex and clove can be used for deep black coloring. Color fastness when washed or dry cleaned was found to be strong with a grade of 4-5 and fastness to light was rated at a 3-4. The grade of color change when exposed to rubbing and perspiration was good at a 4-5. In regards to functional property aspects, it showed excellent results with a 99% deodorization rate at 120 minutes of dyeing time, 97.1% UV protection rate, and 85.9% and 62.3% bacterial reduction against Staphylococcus aureus and Streptococcus pneumoniae, respectively. Therefore, it is considered that the extract from the Juglans mandshurica cortex is of great value as an eco-friendly, natural dyestuff.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.3
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• pp.47-57
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• 2007

This study focused on the properties natural dyeing and natural material and on the development of functional material for well-being in apparel industry. Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini is used as natural dyeing material which had been reported that have curable effect for unbalanced immunity, geriatric diseases like urinary tract system, diabetes, hypertension, arthritis, tinnitus, hyperhidrosis and women's diseases like hypermenorrhea. And this material also has anti-cancer effect so that can restraint cancer cells. 3 kinds tester of cotton, wool and silk are dyed by boiled with each dye (flower, fruits, bark of tree) as first dyeing and dried in the shade. These testers are done by post-mordanting method. Aluminium Potassium(Alk(SO4)2), Cuprie Sulfate($CuSO4{\cdot}5H2O$), Stannous Chloride($SnCl2{\cdot}2H2O$), Ferrous Sulfate($FeCl2{\cdot}4H2O$), Titanium Sulfate 24% aqueous solution(Ti(SO4)2) are used as mordants. Dyeing results of Comus officinalis Siebold et Zuccarini flower and bark are shown as yellow color series. And dyeing result of fruits is pink color series. Silk shows the best dyeing property. As the point of view for dyeing property, Ti, Sn, Fe would be the properchoice for mordant. Following results are extracted in this study. Yellow color is resulted in dyeing with Cornus officinalis flower as non-mordanting condition. Yellowish red color is come from dyeing with Comus officinalis fruit as non-mordanting condition. Grayish yellow tone is resulted in dyeing with bark as non-mordanting condition. Orange tone color with Ti-mordanting, green tone color with Sn-mordanting and gray tone color with Fe-mordanting is resulted respectively. However light-fastness of Comus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is very low as 1 or 2 level in non-mordanting condition, Comus officinalis flower dyeing is turned out 3 or 4 level and fruit dyeing is 4 or 5 level, bark dyeing is 2 or 3 level with Ti-mordanting respectively. Eventually Comus officinalis fruit has the best light-colorfastness property among all of dyes. dry cleaning colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, perspiration-colorfastness of Cornus officinalis(flower, fruit, bark) is good as 4 or 5 level in Ti-mordanting condition, With these results, this study could conclude that dye-ability, colorfastness problem is getting better after mordanting process and practical usage would be possible.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.391-398
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• 2007

Ginkgo leaves, which have been known as medical materials, were selected as new natural dyes in this study, in which it was examined whether they have the function of UV-blocker or not. Cotton, linen & Hanji(Korean traditional paper) were dyed with Ginkgo. Al, Cr, Cu, Fe and Sn were selected as mordants. UV-blocking rate of dyed samples was measured after dyeing and mordant treatment. The results of this study are as follows. First, most surface color of dyed samples was yellow except that Hanji mordanted with Cu was yellowish red. Second, dyeing repetition had positive correlations with K/S values of cotton ($r=.\;758^{**}$), linen ($r=.\;500^*$) and Hanji ($r=.\;819^{**}$), because K/S values were increased according to dyeing repetition. Third, solar UV-blocking rates had positive correlations with dyeing repetitions (p<0.01), because UV-blocking rates had increased according to dyeing repetition. Fourth, UV-blocking ability of Hanji was highest among samples, as UV-blocking rates of cotton and linen dyed after 3 dyeing repetition were up to 93%, Hanji's values were up to 98%. Therefore, it was proven that Ginkgo extracts used in this experiment as dyestuff have excellent dyeing ability and high UV-blocking ability. It is hoped that this work will lead to further research to confirm the physiological effects when human wear the clothes made from Hanji.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.242-248
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• 2008

This study was aimed to find whether the Chelidonium majus which grows naturally in Korean soil and has a various medical ingredient is valuable as a natural dyeing material and to examine the functionality of Chelidonium majus extract. As the test result of dyeing colorfastness, colorfastness to sunlight was 1st grade for all the dyed fabrics. The colorfastness to laundry for discoloration showed from 1st to 4th grade and that for discoloration showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. Colorfastness to perspiration, rubbing, and drycleaning showed from 4th to 5th grade through all the dyed fabrics. In the result of antibiosis test, the dyed cotton fabric showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli evenly when washed one, three, and five times, The dyed silk fabric, when washed one, three, and five times, showed the bacteria reduction rate of 99.0% for Staphylococcus aureus, but didn't showed the significant bacteria reduction. As the test result of sun protection test, in the case of the cotton fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one-time washing, S.P.F.(Sun Protection Factor) showed 20.4, the interception rate of UV-A showed 94.3%, and that of UV-B showed 95.2%. After five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 14.3, the interception rate of UV-A showed 90.0%, and that of UV-B showed 93.2%. In the case of the silk fabric which was dyed but don't use mordant, after one time washing, S.P.F. showed 30.5, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.9%, and that of UV-B showed 96.9%, after five-time washing, S.P.F. showed 31.0, the interception rate of UV-A showed 95.6%, and that of UV-B showed 96.7%.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.34-42
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• 2002

In order to investigate the light fastness of Korean knotweed extract, the concentrate were prepared and dyed to silk fabric under the various conditions, such as kinds of mordants, methods of mordanting, and the dye concentration. After the deed fabrics were irradiated for several hours, the color differences and K/S values were measured. Additionally, the light fastness of Korean knotweed extracts and Emodin in liquid solution was compared. The light fastness of silk fabrics deed with Korean knotweed extract was improved by the Introduction of Fe-mordant, but the surface colors on the dyed fabrics shaded into reddish and dark yellow by 80hours irradiation. Color difference of fabrics were increased wish concentrations of Korean knotweed extracts. So inconsistent fading behaviour was observed. Color difference of dyed fabrics increased remarkably at the early stage of fading and became slowly down except for Fe-mordanted fabric. Absorbance of Korean knotweed extracts and Emodin in liquid solution were extremely decreased with concentrations of colorants, so inconsistent fading behaviour was observed too.