• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.1-10
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• 2008

Yellow, one of the five direction colors, is a prevailing color in artificial dyeing. The color has implied and symbolized wealth and power since ancient times. Yellow has been extracted mainly from flowers. Shapes, colors and scents of flowers not only have enriched emotional mentality, but have also been used for medicinal herbs, and dyestuff since the very old days. Coloring matter from flowers is very beautiful, and it has been used for dyeing textiles. Textile dyeing have formed a color culture and developed a dyeing culture since ancient times. Flowers include a variety of color matters, and can be easily obtained around us. Therefore, flowers have been a widespread natural dyestuff. It is well known that beautiful colors can be extracted from flowers, which are eco-friendly and non-polluting. In addition, flowers are easily provided. In this study, yellow wild flowers were selected as subjects. Seven flowers with color matters distiguishable through the naked eye were used: Korean forsythia, golden-wave, Mongolian dandelion, sunflower, conflower, chelidonium and chrysanthemum. Coloring matters were extracted from the seven flowers, which have been used to create a variety of colors through various dyestuffs; and the colors have been analyzed and presented. Dyeing and coloring matters were tested and analyzed, and several types of dyestuff had also been scientifically measured after treatment.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권2호
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• pp.288-296
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• 2019

This study examined the proper dyeing conditions, color fastness and functionality for wool fabrics dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf extract. FT-IR and UV-Vis spectrum analysis showed that tannin and flavonoids were contained in the extracted colorant. The dyeing of wool fabrics using Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf was good without pretreatment or mordant treatment. Optimal dyeing conditions for wool fabrics were a colorant concentration of 70%(v/v), dyeing temperature of $100^{\circ}C$, dyeing time of 100 minutes and dyebath pH of 5.8. Color fastness of dyed wool fabrics to washing, rubbing, perspiration was good, whereas light was grade 3. The UV protection rate and deodorization rate of wool fabrics dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf improved. Reduction rate of Staphylococcus aureus/Klebsiella pneumoniae were excellent at 99.9%. Therefore, it was confirmed that Chamaecyparis obtusa leaf can be used as environ-mentally friendly natural dye.

• 복식
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• 제4권
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제4권1호
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• pp.73-84
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to investigate the natural dyeability on extract of Aloe Vera princeps. The experimental items were divided into the mordanting method, component of fabric, extracting portion, and kind of mordants. The experimental study was done to by laundering, abrasion(dry/wet), perspiration(acid/alkali), light fastness test and color difference by C.C.M system. The summerized finding resulted from experiments and investigation are suggested as follows: First, in the C.C.M test on mordanting method, color difference was significantly improved when mordants were treatmented. And the premordanting method showed the highest color difference. Second, in the C.C.M test on component of fabric, color difference of silk was higher than cotton. It was considered that silk has -$\NH_2$, -COOH, -OH more than cotton. Third, in the C.C.M Test on extracting portion, color difference of extracting in skin of Aloe leaf was three times higher than that of inside lump. Forth, in dyeing-fastness on mordants, laundering fastness showed 3 ~ 4 grade nearly. In perspiration-fastness(acid/alkali), Al(4~5/4~5) was the highest. In abrasion-fastness(dry/wet), cotton(4~5/4~5) was higher than silk (4~5/4) in all mordants. In light-fastness, silk(2~5) was higher than cotton(1~2) generally and especially Cu mordant of silk(4~5) was the highest. Sixth, in color difference analysis on 7 mordants Cu(29.9), Fe(28.7) and Cr(28.9) showed the highest in silk. And Cu(12.7), Fe(10.42) and Sn(10.43) showed the highest in cotton and Al(23.6, 8.0) showed the lowest in silk and cotton.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.331-336
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• 2017

Bacteria exist everywhere and continuously come into contact with daily surroundings and humans. Super bacterium methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, resistant to methicillin, has recently appeared. The morbidity and rate of death associated with super bacteria infection has increased. This study investigated the antibacterial activity of fabrics naturally dyed with Chamaecyparis obtusa leaves extract against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus. Fabrics were left for 15 min in a natural dyeing solution prepared by extraction from C. obtusa leaves using 11.3% (o.w.f) with a fixed liquor ratio of 1:22 at $40^{\circ}C$. The dyeing process was conducted using three different mordants; subsequently, the K/S value of the dyed fabrics increased in the order of None < Cu < Fe < Al. The color fastness property of the fabrics to washing, dry-cleaning, and rubbing was found to be excellent and ranked in the 4-5 grade. The color fastness to light of natural dyeing is low in most cases and has the problem that the dye color soon becomes bleached. Yet, in most cases cloth dyed with retinispora leaves, the color fastnezz to light was good with a third to fourth grade. Non-mordant fabrics, aluminum mordants, and copper mordants also showed better antibacterial properties (99.9% reduction) against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus, compared to the control fabrics. The dyed fabrics showed the same antibacterial activity even after three washes. The results highlight the strong potential of fabrics naturally dyed with C. obtusa-extract as a medicinal material with excellent antibacterial function against methicillin-resistant Staphylococcus aureus.

• 감성과학
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.403-412
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• 2010

본 연구는 천연염색 견직물의 색상과 톤, 염료 및 매염에 따른 색채감성 이미지 요인의 차이를 고찰하여 천연염색 견직물의 색채감성 이미지 스케일을 구축하고자 하였다. 다양한 국내 외 시판 천연염료로 단일 및 복합염색을 실시하여 얻은 대표적인 66개 색채의 동일한 견직물을 대상으로 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 연구 결과로서 추출된 색채감성 요인 중에서 '유쾌성'은 Blue와 Green, vivid와 bright의 색채이거나, 치자황과 치자청, 황토, 홍화씨로 염색, 또는 알루미늄으로 매염하였을 때 강하게 인지되었으며, '자연성'은 Purple Blue, light, light grayish, pale의 색채, 또는 빈랑자, 오배자로 염색하였을 때 높게 평가받았다. '현대성'은 Green, Blue Green, Blue의 색채에서, 염료로는 생쪽과 치자청, 철 매염시에 높은 평가를 받았으며, '매력성'은 Red, Red Purple, Purple과 dark, 염료로는 오배자, 랙, 꼭두서니, 매염제로는 알루미늄 또는 구리를 사용하였을 때 더 강하게 느껴지는 것을 알 수 있었다. 나아가 천연염색 견직물의 색채 특성과 감성 이미지 형용사 간의 관계에 의한 시각적 이미지 스케일을 구축하였다. 따라서 본 연구의 결과는 색채감성 지향 천연염색 직물 및 의류 제품의 기획 및 설계를 기초데이터로 활용될 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.224-232
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• 2010

The natural dyeing of fabrics with persimmon juice(astringent persimmon, sweet persimmon, astringent and sweet persimmon mix) was investigated. After dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with persimmon juice, we evaluated the dyeability of persimmon juice, the observation of fabric surface with high magnification video microscope, physical properties and color fastness with the conditions of repeating times of dyeing and variables of mordants. The results obtained from this study were as follows: The fabrics dyed with astringent persimmon have shown the highest color difference, while the fabrics dyed with sweet persimmon and the fabrics dyed with astringent and sweet persimmon mix have shown similar color differences. With the increase of repeating times of dyeing, the brightness of fabric decreased. However, $a^*$ value increased gradually, so that it became dark brown color. The $a^*$ and $b^*$ values of dyed fabrics with Fe-mordant have dropped significantly, so that they have shown achromatic colors. But the fabrics treated with other mordants have shown yellowish brown colors. On the surface of the fabrics, threads were bonded together by the viscosity of persimmon juice. Regardless of the types of persimmon juice, stiffness was increased after dying, while crease resistance was decreased. The water repellency of silk fabrics were improved than cotton fabrics after dyeing with sweet persimmon juice, but in case of cotton, it hasn't changed. Washing fastness was improved with the EM(Effective Microorganism)-fermented liquid treatment, and rubbing fastness of two fabrics was better in dry condition than in wet condition.

• Plant Resources
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.206-209
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• 2002

This study was performed to investigate the effect of Mentha arvensis Herba extract on the treatment of chromaticity and colorfastness. Mentha arvensis Herba has been used as a Korean medicine. It is effective in headache and stress. It is also good as a aphtha and in treating cold. In the long history of Korea, dyeing has been applied for a means representing the grace of natural and inner esthetic consciousness of man. Vegetable dyes give us such great benefits, diversified color, but no pollution. And ramie fabric has distinctive features such as beautiful brilliance, elegance, and strong durability. So, it is regarded as a special product of Korea traditionally. These studies were carried out to treat with acetate iron, dichloride copper and alum with a mordant to ramie fabric. The ramie fabric was died with Mentha arvensis Herba extract. The results of experiment showed as follows: First, the chromophoric degree was the highest in acetate iron but not distinction in another mordants. Second, the light colorfastness was the highest in non treated and dichloride copper, but alum was the lowest. Third, the discoloration was alum and dichloride copper showed first grade in washing colorfastness. Abrasion colorfastness was not significant in this test. According the previous results, Mentha arvensis Herba has an efficiency in removing aphtha and in treating cold. So it is considered that Mentha arvensis Herba can be applied effectively to headache and stress.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권5호
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• pp.778-789
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract was investigated. Mixed components of flavonoid and tannin seem to be the components of guava leaf extract. The temperature and time for dyeing of silk fabrics with guava leaf extract were $40^{\circ}C$ and $90^{\circ}C$ for eighty minutes, respectively. The dyeing equilibrium was shown at the fourth time of repeated dyeing. The highest K/S value was recorded at pH 3. Fe-mordanted fabrics showed the highest K/S value. High K/S values were shown in the post-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $40^{\circ}C$ and the pre-mordanting of dyed fabrics at $90^{\circ}C$. After repeated dyeing and mordanting, various color change occurred with mordant treatment. Surface colors were changed to YR color in alkaline water extract and to Y color in acidic water and ethanol extract, respectively. The washing fastness was level 3-4 for Sn-mordanted fabrics and level 4 for Fe-mordanted fabrics, and the dry cleaning fastness also showed very excellent result with level 4-5. The rubbing fastness was satisfactory with level 3-4. The light fastness was above level 4 only when Fe-mordanting was conducted, and the rest of dyed fabrics was not fast enough. In the antibacterial activity, the powder of guva leaf extract showed 99.9% of high antibacterial activity and Staphylococcus aureus showed 99.6% in dyed fabric. All dyed fabrics showed higher deodorization and UV protection rate than control fabric.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.