• 감성과학
• /
• 제21권1호
• /
• pp.143-154
• /
• 2018

본 연구는 친환경적이고 감성적인 패션상품의 색채기획을 위한 자료를 제공하고자 수행되었다. 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색 후 무매염 견직물과 4종의 매염제(Al, Cu, Fe, Zn)를 처리한 견직물에 대하여 색채특성을 측정하였다. 또한 복합염색 후 매염처리된 연두색 견직물에 대하여 여대생을 대상으로 색채감성과 색채 선호도를 조사하였으며, 색채특성과 색채감성이 색채 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽/괴화로 복합염색된(무매염) 견직물은 선 염색한 쪽 농도가 $10g/{\ell}$이면 녹색, 쪽 $20g/{\ell}$을 사용하면 청록색을 나타내었으며, 4종의 매염제를 사용하여 처리시 거의 모든 경우 연두색을 나타내었다. 연두색을 나타내는 복합염색된 견직물 10종의 색채감성을 요인분석한 결과, 유쾌성, 품위성, 편안성 요인으로 분류되었으며, 이러한 색채감성은 쪽 농도와 매염제의 종류에 따라 대부분 유의한 차이를 보였다. 또한 복합염색된 연두색 견직물의 색채특성과 색채감성요인 간에는 대부분 유의한 상관성을 보여, $L^*$값, $b^*$값, $C^*$값이 크고 $a^*$값이 작을수록 유쾌성과 편안성 감성을 더 강하게 느끼며, $L^*$값이 작고 $a^*$값이 클수록 품위성 감성을 더욱 느끼는 것으로 나타났다. 따라서 쪽과 괴화로 복합염색하고 매염처리한 연두색 견직물의 색채감성요인을 예측변수로 활용할 수 있는 색채 선호도 예측 회귀식이 제안되었다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
• /
• 제44권2호
• /
• pp.93-98
• /
• 2002

천연쪽 색소를 사용하는 의한 견직물의 염색 방법을 확립하고자 시험결과 환원제인 Sodium Hydrosulfite를 사용한 경우 염색온도가 3$0^{\circ}C$에서는 30분, 5$0^{\circ}C$에서는 10분 염색 한 것이 표면 염착농도(K/S)가 가장 높았고, 염색액의 pH 7.4 정도인 환원제 및 염료량을 4 g/l일 경우에 가장 높았다. 1회 염색직물의 표면염착농도(K/S)는 개선은 7.20, 기존염색 방법은 1.09이었으며, 염색 직물의 분리한 색소와 염료색소는 모두 청색색소와 적색색소의 2개의 성분이었고 분자량은 262이었으며, 기존과 개선 모두 정균율은 99.8%이상으로 항균성 이 우수하였다.

• 복식문화연구
• /
• 제28권5호
• /
• pp.669-676
• /
• 2020

The purpose of this research was to revive the bathochromic effects of wool fabrics by using natural dyestuffs with minimum heavy metallic mordants. The natural dyestuffs used in this research were the indigo plant, Phellodendron amurense, and Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 1 was pre-dyed five times with indigo. Sample no. 2 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense. Following the same method as sample no. 2 with an additional Phellodendron, Sample no. 3 consisted of a pre-dye five times with indigo and twice with Phellodendron amurense. Sample no. 4 was pre-dyed six times with indigo and then once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 5 followed the same method as no. 4 with an additional dye of Caesalpinia sappan. Sample no. 6 was pre-dyed five times with indigo and then once dyed with Phellodendron amurense and once dyed with Caesalpinia sappan. The results were as follows: first, all samples showed deeper colors. Second, according to the results of the surface K/S measurement, the surface K/S of wool fabrics was >20. Third, the results of lightfastness measurement showed superiority over grade 4 in samples no. 1, 2, 3, 5, and 6. However, sample no. 4 was grade 3. In the colorfastness to washing measurement, sample no. 2 showed greater superiority than grade 3-4, while samples no. 1 and 3 were grade 3. In addition, the colorfastness to dry cleaning for all samples was satisfactory or excellent by more than grade 3.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제20권3호
• /
• pp.3-12
• /
• 2017

본 연구에서는 인체 친화적이고 환경 친화적인 패션제품 소재기획을 위한 기초 자료를 제시하고자 수행되었다. 이를 위해서 4종의 섬유소 소재를 대상으로 염색조건을 달리하여 천연 쪽 염색을 실시하여 색채특성과 색채감성을 평가하였으며, 이러한 특성이 선호도에 미치는 영향을 분석하였다. 쪽 염색된 직물은 모두 중, 저명도와 저채도의 남색(PB)을 구현하였다. 이들 직물의 색채특성은 섬유종류와 염색조건에 따라 유의한 차이를 보였다. 쪽 염색된 직물에 대한 색채감성은 스포티 감성, 클래식 감성, 내추럴 감성 등 3가지 요인으로 분류되었다. 이러한 색채감성은 섬유종류와 염색조건에 따라 부분적으로 유의한 차이를 나타내었다. 또한 쪽 염색 직물의 색채특성과 색채감성 요인 간에는 부분적으로 유의한 상관관계를 보였다. 쪽 염색 직물의 색채 선호도에 영향을 주는 요인으로는 색채감성 요인 중에서 클래식 감성과 스포티 감성, 색채특성에서는 $L^*$값인 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국작물학회지
• /
• 제57권3호
• /
• pp.209-214
• /
• 2012

나주재래종과 새로이 선발된 나주2호의 지역별 재배시험 결과, 초장은 나주2호가 다소 컸으며, 분지수는 나주재래종이 나주2호 보다 많은 경향이었다. 엽면적은 나주2호가 더 넓었으며, 엽장폭비도 나주2호가 더 크게 나타나 둥근 잎 특성의 안정성을 보였다. 두 계통의 지상부 생중과 건중은 큰 차이가 없었으나, 지상부 전체에 대한 엽의 무게 비율은 나주2호가 더 높아 색소수율면에서 유리하였다. 인디고(indigo) 성분과 니람(泥藍) 함량은 나주2호가 나주재래종 보다 높게 나타났으며 실크로 생엽 이용 염색을 한 결과 청색을 더 많이 나타냈다. 따라서 엽 수량이 높고 색소 품질이 좋은 나주2호가 쪽 재배에 유리한 계통으로 판단되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제34권3호
• /
• pp.508-517
• /
• 2010

One-step reduction/dyeing method was optimized for wool dyeing with natural indigo dye in this study. The effects of reduction/dyeing conditions including dye temperature and time, the pH of bath, concentration of dye, and reducing agent on dye uptake and color were investigated. The dye uptake was higher with no addition of alkali. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 30min and the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range. Dye uptake improved with the increase of a natural indigo dye concentration with the same sodium hydrosulfite concentration. At a higher dye uptake, the fabric color became more purplish and the maximum absorption shifted from 660nm to 620nm. Color reproducibility was reliable with a color difference in the range of 0.41~1.43. Regardless of color strength, washing and dry cleaning fastnesses were good with a 4/5 rating, and fastnesses to rubbing and light were acceptable with a 3/4~4 rating.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제29권4호
• /
• pp.276-283
• /
• 2017

The aim of this study is to develop an effective dyeing process for black color on the silk fabrics, using natural Indigo, Madder, Amur cork tree, Alder, Logwood, and Gallnut. All natural dye materials were water-extracted, concentrated, and freeze-dried. Seven different processes were carried out and the color differences(${\Delta}E$) of black color with each process from the chemical black dyed fabric were compared. The light, washing, and rubbing fastness were evaluated. The black dyeing of the silk fabrics was well carried and excellent black color was obtained in every methods. The profound black color could be obtained by the subtractive mixture of the three primary colors of red, yellow, and blue in the order of indigo(blue) - amur cork tree(yellow) - madder or lac(red). Black color was efficiently obtained by iron mordant when logwood or alder fruit was used. The color difference(${\Delta}E$) from the black color with chemical dyestuff was the lowest in the indigo - amur cork tree - lac - iron method. Light fastness and washing fastness were excellent in all dyeing processes, showing grade 5. The fastness to rubbing was excellent as shown grade 5 in the dry samples of logwood - iron process and alder fruit - iron process.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제32권12호
• /
• pp.1963-1970
• /
• 2008

전통적인 니남쪽염료 제조법을 기준으로 굴껍질가루 대신 칼슘하이드록사이드를 사용하여 천연인디고분말염료를 만들었다. 제조한 인디고분말염료에 대한 텐셀의 염색성을 몇 가지 실험조건에서 조사하였으며 염색견뢰도를 측정하였다. 제조한 인디고분말염료는 약 15.5%의 인디고 성분과 0.757%의 인디루빈 성분을 함유하는 것으로 분석되었다. 환원과 염색을 자동염색기로 one-step으로 하였으며 환원제로 소디움하이드로설파이트를 사용하였다. 최대염착량은 $60^{\circ}C$에서 얻었으며 초기 20분 동안에 염착이 거의 이루어졌다. 본 연구의 실험조건 범위에서는 염료농도 4g/L까지는 2g/L의 환원제 농도에서, 염료농도 8g/L에서는 3g/L의 환원제 농도에서 최대염착량을 보였다. 텐셀은 염욕에 가성 소다를 넣지 않고 pH 5.75에서 염색할 때 훨씬 높은 염착량을 나타냈다. 염색견뢰도는 4/5-5등급으로 대체로 우수하였으며, 염착량이 낮을수록 더 높은 광퇴색을 보였다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제13권2호
• /
• pp.263-268
• /
• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• 펄프종이기술
• /
• 제48권3호
• /
• pp.57-65
• /
• 2016

Indigo (Polygonum tinctorium L.) is a typical blue dye which had been used from ancient times. This study was going to shade the complicated traditional methods extracting indigo dye by the fermentation and producing as adsorbate on calcium hydroxide, which says so called as the 'Indigo lime'. Accordingly we were going to make indigo through the hydrolysis of the hot water extractives of indigo leaves simply. During hot-water extraction, ${\beta}$-glucosidase which required hydrolysis of the linkage between indigo and glucose was not activated. To achieve this goal, indican was acid-hydrolyzed to glucose and indigo. The acetic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, and sulfuric acid were used for the hydrolysis of hot water extractives. The hydrolysis conditions of extractives performed in water bath at $80^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes and in an autoclave for 120 minutes. In the acid hydrolysis of extracted indican by hot water, the indican yields of acetic acid and hydrochloric acid hydrolysis were higher than sulfuric acid in water bath. Also, the indican yield of hydrochloric acid hydrolysis was better than sulfuric acid in autoclave. The hot water extracted indican was confirmed by HPLC analysis and its structure was confirmed by UV-Vis and FT-IR spectroscopy, compared with isolated indigo and commercial synthesized indigo. This improved extraction and hydrolysis methods can be replace the traditional indigo making method.