• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제24권5호
• /
• pp.619-627
• /
• 2000

Historically, dyed textiles were symbols of status and, because of their expense, reserved only for people of wealth and specalist, Early dye sources probably included plant, animal and mineral extracts. As synthetic dyes have been developed, beginning with synthetic indigo in 1897, reliance on natural dye sources diminished. But renewed interest in natural dyes is fueled by a pro-environment consumer aware of the ecological liabilities of the dye industry. Han Jee was imported from China where it was influenced to period of the three kingdoms(Silla, Baekje, Kokuryo). After that, Han Jee was used for paper in old Korea for long thime before paper was came with civilization. In this paper, dyeing of Han Jee with loess were investigated according to dyeing temperature, dyeing time, loess concentration, and effects of additives. As a reuslts, λmax of Han Jee dyed by loess was 710nm. ΔE values of Han Jee increased by loess concentration, dyeing time, dyeing temperature. Dyeing with additives treatment increased dyeability. Especially, Han Jee treated with aluminium acetate shows the largest dyeability of the Han Jee. The Han Jee dyed loess had very good lightfastness.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
• /
• 한국염색가공학회 2012년도 제46차 학술발표회
• /
• pp.101-101
• /
• 2012

천연가죽에 색상을 부여하기 위한 염색공정에서 종전의 합성염료가 아닌 자연에서 추출한 천연염료를 이용하여 블루색상을 가지는 피혁 제조 공정을 확립하였다. 피혁에 적용 가능한 블루색상을 가지는 천연염료 중에 쪽 염료가 유일한 상황이다. 가죽 무게 대비 5%의 쪽염료를 가죽 제조 드럼에 투입하여 100분간 충분히 회전시킨 후에 가죽의 유연성을 부여하는 가지제를 12% 추가로 투입하여 블루 색상을 가지는 가죽을 제조하였다. 그 결과 마찰견뢰도, 일광견뢰도, K/S가 우수한 피혁 염색공정을 확립하였다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제6권1호
• /
• pp.34-45
• /
• 2004

The purpose of the study was to investigate weaving, traditional dyeing, fiber material, pattern how carpet developing according to Turkey area for using the data that can rear to the export strategic industry for carpet production and development that is correct in culture. The result are followed: 1) Life of the age was expressed in color and pattern using according to geographical environment, climate, lifestyle, religion etc. 2) In the case of weaving, there is Kilim, Soumak that appears only weft on the surface as plane weaving without knot and carpet of knotted pile weaving and knot of carpet is duplex knot difference with carpet of the other country. 3) In the case of textile material, there is use most wool fiber that can get easily from breeded sheep by nomads. 4) In the case of dyeing, did the local traditional color to use dye extracting in dyeing material that can get easily in the area. Red that can extract in madder that can get easily in which area of Turkey, dark navy blue of indigo dye that indigo plant fermentation and cream beige that is wool's natural color were exposed representative traditional color of Turkey carpet. 5) Pattern was advanced uniquely as culture of the area; weaving person's sensitivity and desire are reflected through centuries. Amulet, riches ＆ honors, fecundity and happiness appeared most pattern in any area.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권9호
• /
• pp.77-94
• /
• 2010

It was the era, from 1876 to 1910, that some dramatic changes, including an influx of foreign dyes and the beginning of the modern dyeing manufacture, happened in Korea. This paper explores what dyes were sold in the market in this period, who was the main seller of the goods, and how the dyers produced their products. A wide range of natural dye stuffs coexisted with the various kinds of aniline dyes, alizarin dye and synthetic indigo in the market. Coloring materials had been sold by hwapi-jeon, a group of official merchants who acquired a privilege of monopoly from the government. However, the dyes were also traded by sang-jeon and yakguk merchants in the nineteenth century. Most of the synthetic dyes sold in Korea were produced in Germany or in Japan later, and imported in large amount by Chinese, Japanese and German merchants. Yet there also existed Korean merchants and peddlers who sold the goods to the local consumers. Dyers were male and female who belonged to the middle class. They received the orders and payments from the government or merchants. Not only did they dye textiles, threads, cotton, paper and leather, but they also redyed clothes. Indigo dyers were differentiated from other dyers. Modern dyeing manufacture, which was presumably forced to keep pace with the productivity of the weaving process, appeared in the 1900s. It was a branch of the modern weaving manufacture.

• 분석과학
• /
• 제29권6호
• /
• pp.283-292
• /
• 2016

범죄현장조사에 사용되는 인체에 유해할 수 있는 일반분말에 대한 대체수단으로 천연분말(오징어 먹물분말, 청대분말, 쌀분말)을 이용하여 비 다공성표면(유리, 플라스틱, 타일)상의 잠재지문을 현출(가시화)하였다. 현출된 잠재지문을 Automatic Fingerprint Identification System (AFIS)으로 분석한 특징점의 수를 흑색분말을 사용한 결과 특징점 수와 비교하였으며 또한 객관적이고 계량적인 평가방법의 개발을 위하여 각 분말로 가시화된 지문의 이미지를 농도계 이미지분석(densitometric image analysis)을 이용한 결과 값인 융선 피크의 면적값을 비교하였다. 천연분말들의 현출효과는 표면에 따라 다양하게 나타났다. 일반적으로 오징어 먹물분말은 대부분의 표면에서 좋은 현출을 보였으며 청대분말은 타일표면에서 그리고 쌀분말은 유리표면에서 최고의 현출을 보였다. 그러나 플라스틱 표면은 천연분말에 의한 지문현출이 가장 어려운 표면이었다. Field Emission Scanning Electron Microscope (SEM)를 이용한 이미지 분석에서 융선에 적절한 흡착력을 가지는 조건으로 천연분말 입자의 크기와 형태가 중요한 인자임을 확인할 수 있었다. 비록 기술적인 어려움으로 특징점의 수와 융선 피크의 면적값과의 상관관계를 볼 수는 없었으나 공평하고 객관적인 지문의 평가방법으로 기준 이미지의 사용을 통한 이미지 보정을 통하여 가능하리라고 사료된다. 저가의 저독성 천연분말은 추가적인 실험을 통하여 적절한 잠재지문 현출제로서의 가능성을 보일 것으로 사료된다.

• 한국자원식물학회지
• /
• 제18권3호
• /
• pp.417-423
• /
• 2005

쪽 생즙액의 염색조건에 따른 견직물의 염색성을 조사하기 위해 염액온도, 염색시간, 염액농도 염액의 pH, 매염제를 달리하여 견직물을 염색하였다. 염액의 온도에 따른 견직물의 표면색은 온도가 낮을수록 b값이 작아져 $-5^{\circ}C$와 상온에서는 녹색(G) 계열로, $40^{\circ}C$ 이상에서는 녹황색(GY) 계열로 발색되었으며, 염착농도는 온도가 높을수록 높았다. 염색시간은 표면색에 영향을 미치지 않았으나 염색시간이 길수록 염착농도는 증가하였다. 염액농도를 $1\%,\;2\%,\;3\%,\;4\%$로 조정하여 견직물을 염색했을 때는 청록색(BG) 계열로 발색되었으나 $5\%$에서는 B계열로 발색되었고, 염착농도는 염액의 농도가 높을수록 증가하였다. 염액의 pH에 따른 견직물의 표면색은 pH 7이하에서는 G계열을, pH 8에서는 녹황색(GY)으로, pH 9에서는 황적색(YR) 계열을 나타냈다. 염착농도는 pH가 높을수록 낮아졌다. 매염처리는 견직물의 표면색에 영향을 미쳤으며, 염착농도도 증가시켰다.

• 복식
• /
• 제58권3호
• /
• pp.79-92
• /
• 2008

The purpose of this study is to develop knitwear design expressed not also Green but also LOHAS using natural yarns(wool and cotton) dyed with various natural sources(sappanwood, indigo plant, turmeric, cochineal, coffee, gallnut, and persimmon juice). This researcher tried to suggest solution scheme through the development of knitwear designs to break from the cottage industry and the limitation of design in Jeju and to preserve of traditional dye with persimmon juice simultaneously. Knitting is the formation of a fabric by the interlooping of one or more sets of yarns with hand knitting or industrial knitting. In hand-knitting, the two fundamental stitches are described as knit depending on the direction of the loop formation, front to back or back to front. In machine-knitting, the direction of loop formation is fixed, unless the stitch is mechanically transferred from front to back needle bed or vice versa. Industrial knitting technology can be divided into two main areas - weft knitting and warp knitting. Each has a different principle of construction. The majority of knitted fabrics for clothing are weft-knitted, and so this study is used weft-knitting and hand knitting technology. To achieve this purpose, researcher tried to present a lot of knitwear designs using yarns dyed with various natural sources focusing on Modern & Sophisticated Image and Elegance & Romantic Image to satisfy adult and missy consumer needs.

• 한국의류산업학회지
• /
• 제14권4호
• /
• pp.669-676
• /
• 2012

This study aims to compare the properties of natural dye stuffs, such as color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, to analyze the differences noted by expert groups regarding the properties of the stuffs, and to make a positioning of the stuffs. A survey of experts in academia, business, and the art of natural dyeing was conducted, with an evaluation of 23 types of the stuff's properties. There is a correlation between the properties of the stuffs, and evaluating dye stuffs differs according to the group to which it belongs. X-axis relates to color and Y-axis refers to fastness in the positioning of the stuff. There are different relationships between properties according to their group. Color is significantly associated with marketability in art experts however, fastness is closely connected with marketability in business. The stuffs can be divided into five clusters. Cluster I includes indigo and persimmon, and is marked by excellent color, dyeability, fastness, and marketability, Cluster II contains safflower and sappan wood, which are excellent colors, yet suffer from low marketability on account of their medium to low fastness. Cluster III includes red, purple, and brown dyes, and onion and rhubarb, and has medium properties. Cluster IV is mugwort and yellow dyes, except onion and rhubarb, and features low properties. Cluster V is loess, featuring medium color and low fastness.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제35권3호
• /
• pp.254-266
• /
• 2011

This study analyzes the state and products of shopping malls that sell naturally dyed products in Japan. In this study, 37 natural dyeing shopping malls were selected. The results of this study are as follows. There are many natural dying internet shopping malls located in the areas of Tokyo, Kyoto, and Okayama. The most frequent dyes were indigo, followed by akane, persimmon, mud, vegetation, and tea. The highest ordered product categories were accessories, followed by adult clothes, and interior decoration products. The most frequent products were adult hats, followed by towels (handkerchiefs), scarves, T-shirts, and bags. For the price of products, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ was the highest for T-shirts, with 2,000-3,000${\yen}$ and 4,000-S,000${\yen}$ for newborn baby and child clothing, 5,000-10,000${\yen}$ for hats and bags, 3,000-4,000${\yen}$ for scarves, and 1,000-2,000${\yen}$ for towels (handkerchief). Concerning product information, most of the shopping malls offer the product size and the product explanations, but over half of them did not show the properties or directions for handling the product.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제23권2호
• /
• pp.90-99
• /
• 2011

The aim of this study is to develope eco-printing method using natural pigments and chitosan as a natural binder. Three chitosans with different molecular weights were employed to find appropriate conditions including chitosan concentration and pigment/binder ratio. Dye uptake, color and fastnesses of the printed fabrics were evaluated to find optimum conditions within the range of experiments carried out in this study. The effectiveness of chitosan as a printing binder was examined in comparison with color, dye uptake, and fastnesses of conventional synthetic binder and guar gum. It was found that chitosans with low or medium molecular weight were appropriate. Using low molecular weight chitosan, optimum concentrations were 1.7% for charcoal, madder and chlorophyll, whereas 2.2% for ocher, yellow soil, indigo and cochineal. Regardless of molecular weight and concentration of chitosan, the color fastnesess of fabrics printed with mineral pigments were superior to those of the fabrics printed with plant and animal pigments. As pigment/chitosan ratio became higher, rubbing fastness was decreased by 1-3 grade. The colorfastness of printed fabric with chitosan binder was similar to that with synthetic binder, which was higher than that with guar gum.