• 대한가정학회지
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• 제43권8호
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• pp.1-12
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• 2005

Ash solutions derived from vegetation have been known for their good mordanting action. They are used as finishing agents because they are able to promote dye uptake. It is expected that the types of ash solutions may have been different worker by worker since the workers have employed easy-to-get plants, when we reviewed old literature. However, the ash solutions are being used without clear distinctions between their characteristics. In this study, camellia ash solution and rice straw ash solution were prepared according to traditional methods. Using these solutions as mordanting agents, natural dyeing experiments with Caesdpinia Sappan were peformed. Following the dyeing procedure, the effect of the type of ash solution on the color of the dyed fabric was evaluated. The results showed that the ash solution mordanting effect us not dependent upon the components of the ash solution. It was also demonstrated that the mordanting effect was not based on the action of the metallic ions in the ash solution. The pH values of the ash solutions were adjusted in order to investigate the effect of changes in ash solution alkalinity on the dyeing process. The pH values ranged from neutral or weak acidity to the alkaline range in order to evaluate the characteristics of the mordanting tv the ash solutions.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권1호
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• pp.115-124
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• 2011

This study provides an eco-friendly dyeing processing for chitosan fiber using Oenothera odorata jacquin as a dye. The effects of chemical mordants (Al, Cu, Fe) and natural mordant (Chestnut shell) on the color change for dyed chitosan fibers were measured by K/S values, L, $a^*$, $b^*$, H, V, C values, color fastness, and antimicrobial activity. The results are as follows. Dyeing conditions of Oenothera odorata jacquin on chitosan fibers were optimized to $70^{\circ}C$, 30 minutes and 200% on weight of fabric (o.w.f.). The pre-mordant concentration of aluminium (Al), copper (Cu) and iron (Fe) of chitosan fibers was optimized to 3% (o.w.f.) and 1% (o.w.f.), respectively. The post-mordant concentration of chemicals, such as Al, Cu and Fe, on chitosan was determined to 1% (o.w.f.). The hue of chitosan fibers by chemical mordants was measured to be reddish & yellow. The pre-mordant concentration of Chestnut shell of chitosan was optimized to 70% (o.w.f.). The post-mordant concentration of Chestnut shell on chitosan was determined to be 50% (o.w.f.). The hue of chitosan fibers by Chestnut shell mordant was measured to be reddish & yellow. The wet cleaning fastness of chitosan fibers was improved by a pre-mordant that used chemical mordants. In the case of the Chestnut shell mordant, the wet cleaning fastness was improved by a post-mordant. The dry cleaning fastness of chitosan fibers was excellent regardless of mordants and mordant methods. The antimicrobial activity of the chitosan fiber was shown at 99.9% and its excellent qualities remained after the dyeing and mordant processing.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권3호
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• pp.135-141
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• 2009

In this paper, Tagetes extracts were extracted from leave, root, stem and flower at $100^{\circ}C$ for 20 minutes. Silk fabrics were dyed with Tatetes Patula L. to investigate the dyeing properties in accordance with dye concentration, pH, temperature, time of pre-, simul- and post-treatment of mordants using the three types of mordants. As a result, the surface color of the silk fabrics was yellowish regardless of the types of mordants. However, the a values were decreased and b values were increased in the order of the dyeing using Al>Cu>Fe: Al mordanted silk fabrics were appeared in greenish yellow and Fe mordanted silk fabrics were done in redish yellow. K/S values of the silk fabrics treated with Fe mordant were 3 times higher than those of Al and Cu mordants according to the increase in dye concentration. This behaviour was shown even in the increase of mordant concentration due to the interaction of mordant and pigments of Tatetes Patula L. But, the types of mordants did not affect because the equilibrium was obtained in 20 minutes in a similar way. And it showed that the highest K/S value of the silk fabrics studied was pH 4 and $80^{\circ}C$ regardless of the types of mordants.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.197-206
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to dye hanji/cotton fabrics using persimmon juice and to investigate the change in the hand fabrics. Using the Kawabata Evaluation System, we have examined the changes in the physical properties, primary hand value and total hand value. The dynamic characteristics of hanji/cotton fabrics have been explored by tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. As a result, it can be seen that the linearity of load-extension and tensile resilience are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice and tensile energy is decreased in the same condition. These behaviors are shown in the compression properties. Although the mechanism of persimmon juice dyeing has been widely discussed, it means that the fabrics dyed with persimmon juice become stiffened and the elasticity is increased with the introduction of persimmon on the fabrics studied. Bending rigidity and hysteresis of the bending moment are increased with the increase of the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice. Also, Geometrical roughness, expressed in SMD is increased with increasing the concentration and dyeing times of persimmon juice, compared with as-received. It indicates that these results are due to the geometric structure of hanji yarn and the introduction of persimmon juice on the fabrics studied. The fullness and softness with the soft feeing are increased a little due to the tannin component of persimmon juice introduced on the fiber surface.

• Current Research on Agriculture and Life Sciences
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• 제30권2호
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• pp.76-81
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• 2012

본 연구에서는 검정팥 종피에 함유된 천연색소에 대한 연구의 일환으로, 천연염료로서의 적용을 위해 염색조건 즉 염색온도, 염색시간, 염색 pH, 욕비에 따른 K/S 값을 측정하여 적정 염색조건을 설정하고, 여러 매염제를 적용하여 색상변화에 미치는 영향 및 견뢰도를 측정하여 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. pH에 따른 염색성에서는 견직물의 경우 pH 4에서 가장 염착량이 많았고, 면직물의 경우에는 주어진 범위 내에서 는 pH가 높을수록 염착량이 많았다. 2. 염색온도와 시간에 따른 염색성은, 견직물의 경우, 염색온도 $40^{\circ}C$와 $60^{\circ}C$에서는 전반적으로 염착량이 낮고 시간에 따른 염착량의 차이도 크지 않았으나 염색온도 $80^{\circ}C$에서는 시간이 경과할수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 면직물의 경우도 견직물과 비슷한 결과로 온도가 높아질수록 염색시간이 경과될수록 K/S 값이 크게 나타났다. 3. 견직물에 대한 매염제 종류별 표면색의 변화에서는 Fe 매염포만 YR${\rightarrow}$Y 로 변화되었을 뿐 다른 매염제에서는 매염후에도 색상 변화는 크지 않았다. Sn 매염과 Ti 매염포는 무 매염포 보다 $L^*$값이 상승하였으나 나머지 매염제는 $L^*$값이 크게 감소되었다. 면직물에 대한 표면색의 변화는 견직물에서와 같은 경향으로 나타났으며, $L^*$값에 있어서는 견직물과 다르게 Ni 매염포만 무매염포보다 $L^*$ 값이 크게 나타났다. 4. 매염처리 전 견직물의 일광 견뢰도는 무매염이 4~6등급, Al 처리포는 4~5등급, Cu와 Sn은 3~4등급으로 나타났고 Fe는 2~3등급으로 가장 낮게 나타났으며, 세탁견뢰도에서는 무매염 2등급, 매염제 처리포는 전부 2내지 3등급으로 나타났다. 무매염 면직물의 일광견뢰도는 1~2등급, Fe 매염은 2~3등급, Cu 2등급 Al과 Sn은 1~2등급으로 매염처리에 의해 전혀 개선되지 않았으며, 세탁견뢰도의 경우 Cu매염이 4등급으로 양호하게 나타났으며 무매염, Al, Sn과 Fe는 3등급으로 나타났다.