• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.5
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• pp.699-707
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• 2013

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Thuja orientalis extract were 100% v/v, $80^{\circ}C$, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods with increasing mordant concentration. Light colorfastness and washing colorfastness of Cu or Fe mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Thuja orientalis extract was showed effective bacterial reduction. The dyed and mordanted fabric with Thuja orientalis extract showed a superior ultraviolet protection property.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.432-437
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• 2011

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Rheum undulatum L. extract was investigated. The proper colorant concentration, dyeing temperature, dyeing time, and pH for the dyeing of silk fabric with Rheum undulatum L. extract were 90% v/v, $90^{\circ}C$, 80 minutes and pH 3, respectively. In various mordanted methods, the K/S values of mordanted methods were higher than those of unmordanted methods. Light colorfastness of mordanted silk fabric was improved by mordanting. The antibacterial properties of dyed and mordanted silk fabric showed a high reduction rate, and Cu mordant was showed the most effective bacterial reduction.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.3
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• pp.511-527
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• 2024

The aim of this study was to impart color to bacterial cellulose (BC) fabric using various natural plant-based dyes-namely, gardenia jasminoides, green tea, and pomegranate peel. A protein pretreatment was also applied to improve the BC fabric's dyeability and mechanical properties. The BC fabric's dyeing and mordanting conditions when using plant-based natural dyes were determined by changes in the K/S values. The dyeability of BC samples dyed with green tea or pomegranate peel improved when they were pretreated with soy protein isolate (SPI) prior to dyeing. Moreover, the SPI pretreatment was efficient in improving the BC fabric's tensile strength and flexibility. This study proposes a method for dyeing BC fabric that uses plant-based natural dyes and confirms the effects of the protein pretreatment on the fabric's dyeability and durability.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.29-38
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• 2009

Natural dyes seem to be more profitable on human and environment, and recently they could be considered as a better alternative to synthesized dyes. The aim of the current work was to investigate the dyeing property and antimicrobial activity of commercial cotton fabrics dyed with kumazasa (usually called in japan) which is known as conventional japan bamboo leaves. Actually, the dyeability and antimicrobial property of dyed fabric with natural mordant/dyeing was compared with synthetic mordant/dye process. The results of this study obtained are as follows. The apparently colour of kumazasa leaves extract dyed fabrics showed with light green or slightly yellow-green. In colorfastness to washing, ${\Delta}E$ and K/S values of dyed fabrics with natural chitosan as mordant used was shown to be more excellent results, than was synthetic mordant used. However, the decrease rate was recorded nearly 50% when washing repeated 20 cycles. In result of antimicrobial effect for bacteria, the dyed fabrics didn't show the significant antimicrobial activity to the both dyed with and without mordant. Results of this investigation considered that low-cost, natural, bio-mordant are relatively effective in natural coloration.

• The Korean Journal of Community Living Science
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.143-154
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• 2017

This study was conducted to develop fabrics using non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes made from curcuma and coffee extract. The natural dyes were applied to non-printed cotton fabrics using the dip dyeing method, and the pattern was hand-printed onto the dyed fabrics to make dyed printed-fabrics. The four types of developed fabric samples were compared to analyze the effects of the dyeing materials and printing on the hygienic properties of curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics. The findings were as follows. First, air permeability of both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics was greatly affected by the presence of patterns, although the type of dye did not seem to have an effect. Printing greatly reduced air permeability of the fabric, and coffee-dyed fabric showed greater reduction of dyeing method than curcuma-dyed fabric. Moisture regain also tended to decrease with printing, but the change was much smaller compared to air permeability. Second, increased UV blockage was observed in curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics with patterns compared to non-printed fabrics, showing that printing enhanced UV blocking. Third, deodorization rate tended to increase sharply for both curcuma- and coffee-dyed fabrics until 30 minutes and gradually increased thereafter to yield 30% for curcuma and 50% for coffee at 120 minutes, demonstrating higher deodorization of coffee dye. Coffee-dyed fabric showed an antibacterial rate about twice as high as that of curcuma-dyed fabric, and the observed data suggest that curcuma-dyed fabric had an insignificant level of antibiosis. Fourth, printing significantly enhanced wash, sunlight, and compound colorfastness of the two types of dyed fabrics. The effect of printing was most dramatic on sunlight and compound colorfastness, which are aspects in which natural dyed fabrics perform poorly in general. Eventually, the development and application of biologically- and environmentally-friendly fabrics with natural dyes correspond with increased interest towards the wellness and healthy attitudes of modern society.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.156-164
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• 2003

It has been known that the natural colorants exhibit good dye-uptake toward cotton, silk, and wool fibers, while they do poorly toward synthetic fibers. This study utilizes the chitosan treatment in order to improve the dye-uptake for the natural fibers and to enable the synthetic fibers, whose dye-uptake levels are low, show better affinity toward the natural colorants. Since chitosan has $-NH_2$ group and -OH group in the structure, the dyeability of the fabric will be improved when the fabric is treated with the chitosan. Cotton fabric as one of the natural fiber fabrics and nylon fabric as one of the synthetic fiber fabrics were selected for this study. 1. In case of cotton fabric, the chiosan treatment takes effect for the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal, resulting in remarkable ${\Delta}E$ increase after dyeing. Chitosan helps in developing dark shade by increasing the uptake of the Caesalpinia sappan and cochineal. It does not, however, participate in the developing of the specific color as does a metallic mordant. 2. In case of dyeing cotton fabric with Gardenia jasminoides, the effect of the treatment with mordant and chitosan is not very pronounced. It is thought that the Gardenia jasminoides uptake is accomplished in a direct manner in the cellulose chains without the aid of mordant. 3. Air-permeability is decreased when the non-mordanted and non-chitosan treated cotton fabric is dyed with Caesalpinia sappan, cochineal, and Gardenia jasminoides. 4. In case of nylon fabric, premordanting and chitosan treatments are not highly effective in promoting the dye-uptake.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.180-199
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• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.46 no.1
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• pp.132-146
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• 2022

To explore the potential use of Ecklonia cava as a natural dye for textiles, silk fabric was dyed with Ecklonia cava extracted by hot water under varied conditions, including temperature, duration, dye concentration, mordanting, and pH adjustment. The fabric was also evaluated for fastness, sun-protective property, and deodorization. Ecklonia cava extract was estimated by FT-IR to have polyphenol as a main functional colorant in plants, while the existence of phlorotannins through the UV-spectrum method was also confirmed. The fabric was optimized for maximum dye uptake at a temperature of 80℃ for a duration of 50 minutes along all dye concentrations. The dyed fabric showed a hue of Yellow Red under all dyeing conditions while additional color tones, such as grayish and dark, were generated through mordanting and pH adjustment. Both good sun-protective properties and a positive deodorization rate were also recorded, with more than 20% (owf) Ecklonia cava extract on silk fabric. These results imply that Ecklonia cava has great potential to be used as an eco-friendly natural dye and in fashion goods with skin-health functions made of silk.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.399-407
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• 2003

The natural dyeing of silk fabric with Purple-Fleshed Sweet Potato (PSP) was investigated. The colorant was extracted with distilled water, and the color difference (${\Delta}E^*$) was increased with increasing the amount of PSP in extraction. The proper temperature and time for the extracting of colorant with PSP were $60^{\circ}C$ and 60 minutes. The optimum temperature, time and pH for the dyeing of silk with extracted PSP were $60^{\circ}C$, 60 minutes and pH 4 respectively. In various mordanted methods, the color difference values of post-mordanted silk fabric were higher than those of pre- and simultaneous-mordanted method. And the wide range of colors( GY, Y, YR, R, RP) were obtained according to various mordants, mordanting methods and mordant concentrations. Light colorfastness of the mordanted silk fabric was improved. Laundering colorfastness, dry cleaning colorfastness and perspiration colorfastness were shown to be good.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.18-28
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• 2008

The purpose of this study is to examine the Characteristics of Fashion Trends($1996{\sim}2005$) of Korea by the trend elements - style, fabric and color. The results of this study are as followed. During 10years, 'modern(18%)', 'elegant(11%)' and 'romantic(10%)' styles were shown in order, and colors of YR(17%), Y(14%), R(13%) and PB(11%) were shown in order. Considering tones, m(16%), d(12%), gy(11%) and s(10%) tones were in the order of frequency. In the fabric trend 'elegant(19%)', 'modern(14%)' and 'natural(14%)' images showed the high frequency. Since 2000's, style trends and fabric trends were subdivided, and the contrary images coexisted. The trend images of 'natural', 'retro', 'manish' and 'fun' were mainly used in fabric trend, and 'romantic' and 'classic' images were frequently used in style trend. The changes of trend images in style and fabric have been similar until the early 2000's but the cycle of trend of style became shorter than fabric trend. Therefore the cycle of fabric trend should be changed to be a short term and subdivided in company with style trend.