• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1315-1322
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• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.288-295
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• 1999

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties in tencel fabrics by repeated washing & shear and tensile deformation. The obtained results are as follows. After performing repeated shear tensile deformation, RT of tencel showed higher increase rate than that of cotton and rayon, whereas its WT and EM was a smaller decrease rate than that of them. This means that tencel's resistance to tensile deformation was the greatest. In the repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, tencel's 2HB, 2HG and 2HG5 showed a remarkable increase rate. In terms of deformation frequency, the greatest change rate appeared at the time of 1000 cycles of repeated shear tensile deformation and 15 times of repeated washing. In the hand value and THV, KOSHI showed a higher increase rate for tencel than for cotton and rayon in both repeated washing and shear tensile deformation, and NUMERI showed a higher increase rate. In the THV the change rate of rayon and cotton could be rarely seen but for tencel, it decreased. tencel's change rate of thermal insulation value by materials was 1.08%, and it increased as the washing frequency increased, compared to the grey fabrics, whereas the change rates of cotton and rayon were 0.74% and 0.22%, respectively. The qmax decreased in the order of cotton>tencel>rayon as the washing frequency increased.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제5권3호
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• pp.267-272
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• 2003

Tactel(Nylon66) union fabrics were woven with the specification of 70d/34f nylon as warp for sport wear jacket. Weft yarn has three types; 100% cotton yarn, nylon core-spun yarn and nylon-polyurethane covering yarn as weft. Fabric structers were plain, twill and satin weave structure with the air jet loom. The mechanical properties of 8 fabrics were measured with KES-F and primary Hand Values and Total Hand Values were calculated. The results of the study were as follows: 1) There was little difference among LTs of N/CM fabric groups. RT of the fabrics with CM100's was bigger than that of fabrics with CM80's, resulting that the fabrics with CM100's have better formability. In terms of weaving structure, twill fabrics have shape deformation. 2) In comparison of RTs with weft yarn type, RT of N-PU covering yarn was the highest, followed by Nylon core-spun yarn and cotton yarn. Thus, the fabric with N-PU covering yarn has better stability of shape deformation. 3) Stretch yarn could express an excellent silhouette formation and twill and satin structures were better structure to make curvature on human form. 4) 2HG/G value of nylon core-spun fabrics was larger than that of N/C fabrics, but the silhouette formation of N/C fabrics was excellent. 5) The RC of N/PU was the highest, followed by N/P, and N/CM. 6) Koski of N/PU fabrics was the highest, Numeri of N/PU and N/Co-I were relatively higher than the others. THVs of N/CM-IV and N/CO-II were lower than the others, resulting that, twill structure was better than plain structure for a sport wear uses.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제10권2호
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• 대한기계학회논문집A
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• 제36권7호
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• pp.805-811
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• 2012

신뢰성 기반 최적설계의 효과적인 수행을 위하여 개발된 단일루프 단일벡터 방법은 신뢰성 해석의 계산과정을 제거함으로써 최적설계 시 발생하는 과도한 계산비용을 줄일 수 있다. 하지만 성능함수의 오목한 정도가 심할 경우, 수렴을 하지 못하고 발산하는 경향을 보인다. 때문에 일반적인 단일루프 단일벡터 방법은 낮은 수렴성과 부정확성 문제를 내포하고 있다. 본 연구에서는 공액경사도법을 이용한 단일루프 단일벡터 방법을 제안한다. 공액경사도법은 이전 반복과정의 최대가능손상점에서 계산된 방향 벡터들을 이용하여 현재 설계점에서의 최대가능손상점을 산출하기 위한 새로운 방향벡터를 구하고 이 방향벡터를 이용하여 현재점에서의 최적화를 수행한다. 이를 다양한 수학예제에 적용하고 다른 방법들과 수치적 성능 비교를 통해 제안한 방법의 유용성을 검증한다. 공액경사도법을 이용한 단일루프 단일벡터 방법은 성능함수 특성에 크게 영향을 받지 않으며 수렴성을 크게 향상시킬 수 있다.