• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.7
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• pp.55-62
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• 2004

Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.12
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• pp.53-58
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• 2011

This study investigated ingredient of the pigment of wall painting piece of women parade of Gaemachong Goguryo that the National Museum of Korea kept. XRF, a non-destructive analyzer, was used to investigate ingredient of the pigment. At the analysis, not only cinnabar/ vermillion(HgS) but also hematiae(Fe₂O₃) was used to produce red, and carbon was done to produce black, and lead white was done to produce white. The face was painted by mixture of not only cinnabar/ vermillion but also hematiae: No coloring was done depending upon situation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.161-167
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• 2006

The purpose of this research are to identify the nature of artistic beauty of Kokuryeo dresses and to apply the artistic beauty, formative uniqueness, and esthetic value of Kokuryeo in the modern Korean dress design for creation of new designs. Significance of this research lies in the fact that beauty of traditional dresses possesses highly valuable importance for application to modern fashion design processes. Kokuryeo dresses basically comprised of Yu, Sang, Go and Po, and contains within abstract beauty along with emphasis on geometric elements like dots, lines, and surfaces. Red, Black, Violet, Verdant and scarlet colors were moderately used against the mainly white canvas, and different colors were often used for the top and the bottom. Silk, Hemp cloth and Wool were used for different social levels or ranks, and from the wide variety of colors and patterns of the dresses, such as Round-patterns, Cloud-patterns and Vine-patterns, worn by the people illustrated on the wall paintings, it appears that various materials were used. Vertical hems, Yu (shirts), Sang (skirts), noblemen's dresses, kings' dresses, etc. from Kokuryeo tomb wall paintings were applied, and various dying methods, natural materials and sewing methods were used to recreate the unique features of Kokuryeo dresses in modern designs in an attempt to recreate the esthetic value of Kokuryeo dresses.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.27 no.4
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• pp.451-458
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• 2011

This study aims at identifying wall painting production technique of Songsanri No. 6 tomb based on optical examination and scientific analysis along with the investigation of written records of ancient wall paintings. The result displays that bricks with mortar were used for the construction of the wall, and masonry joint were made of lime, sand and gypsum. The surface of brick were plastered with black and thereafter with white lime. Finely sifted clay on the top of the white surface, were applied not with plasterer's trowel but with a brush for making ground surface. The clay are mineral particles smaller than $30{\mu}m$ of silt. The wall paintings of Sonsanri No. 6 is the only example of making ground layer with clay for painting of Sasindo (literally four heavenly animals painting) among remaining wall paintings of ancient tombs. The historical value of the painting should be attributed not only in terms that it displays a rare production techniques which were never discovered in any other paintings in Korea and Asia, but also it might had been uncompleted when the tomb were closed, even though it considers the fact that the wall painting were discovered in damaged condition in 1933.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.2
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to compare the style of clothing by type of the Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe based on the examination of the literature centered on the historical relationship between Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe. The research results are as follows. First, it was found that both the apparels of Goguryeo and Xianbei Tribe had hemp cloth with the V-neckline with the blocked front part and hemp cloth with the open front that is worn by overlapping the straight collars of the upper garment. Both men and women wore the garment of the straight line collar that is worn by folding towards the left or right, or upper garment of the round shaped collar. Women wore an upper garment with short sleeves on top of the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes while men wore pants for the lower garment, and women wore skirt and apron with triangular cloth decoration on top of the skirt. Second, Goguryeo Anak Tomb No. 3 mural painting(year 357) shows that apparel worn by the lady who is the wife of the owner of the tomb is similar to the apparel worn by the lady in the lacquer painting for folding screen of the Sima Jinlong Tomb ancient painting on the woman of chaste reputation in terms of the form and structure.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.46 no.4
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• pp.4-23
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• 2013

Songsalli Ancient Tombs of Gongju consists of seven tombs. King Muryeong's tomb, the seventh tomb, is a brick chamber tomb discovered during the drainage works for the fifth and the sixth tombs in 1971. The excavation at the time focused on topographic surveys of the tomb entrance and the inside of the burial chamber as well as collection of the remains. The burial mount survey confirmed the status of some stone slab remaining and lime-mixed soil layers, but the survey did not examine the exterior structure of the whole tomb as the mounds were removed even more deeply. The excavation revealed damages to the bricks and mural damages due to moisture and fungus in the sixth and the seventh tombs. Between 1996 and 1997, Gongju National University conducted a comprehensive detailed survey of Songsalli Ancient Tombs including a geophysical survey, with an aim to identify the root causes of such degradation. Based on the results, repair took place in 1999 and the fifth, sixth and seventh tombs were placed under permanent conservation to conserve the cultural assets. General public is currently denied access. The purpose of this study was to conduct a three-dimensional resistivity and GPR surveys on the ground surface of the fifth, sixth and seventh tombs of Songsalli Ancient Tombs in order to understand the underground status after repair. The study also aimed to understand the thickness of all the tomb walls and exterior structure based on GPR inside King Muryeong's tomb. The exploration on the ground surface found that the three tombs and soil adjacent to the tombs had resistivity as low as 5 to $90{\Omega}m$, which confirmed that the soil water content was still as high as that prior to the repair work. Additionally, GPR found that the wall construction of the burial chamber of King Muryeong's tomb was approximately 70cm in thickness, while the structure was of 2B with two bricks, about 35cm in length, put together longitudinally(2B brick masonry). The pathway to the burial chamber was of the 2B structure just like that of the burial chamber walls, while its thickness was 80cm with an eyebrow-type arch connected to it. Also, the ceiling exterior appears to have an arch structure, identical to the shape inside.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.55 no.3
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• pp.6-20
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• 2022

The restoration of cultural heritage materials is an important research theme. This study improved the existing cultural heritage restoration method and attempted to establish a restoration system for cultural heritage data based on historical documents and visual materials. Recognizing the limitations of existing studies, this paper attempted to restore cultural heritage data through interdisciplinary research. In addition, 3D restoration was carried out after restoration in 2D form based on literature documents rather than existing visual sources. The object of restoration that was selected was "Jeol," which represents the power of the king of Koguryo. Koguryo's Jeol is a type of flag. Jeol appears in the mural in Anak Tomb No. 3. Rather than using only photographic materials of murals, the restoration was carried out through cross-validation of literature data and materials on archaeological art history. This is important in that the restoration carried out in this study is an accurate restoration with a historical understanding based on the literature of the relevant cultural heritage. In this study, a restoration process based on historical records was established. A 3D restoration process was performed by adding and applying visual materials after the object was first shaped based on the literature data. Restoration based on literature and visual materials was carried out based on interdisciplinary research. Therefore, this study aims to build a digital restoration system for cultural heritages and to contribute to spreading the 3D digital restoration research of cultural heritages that can be applied to various platforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.4
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• pp.131-148
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• 2003

Mural Painting of Koguryo Dynasty. root of Korean traditional pattern. has 5 types of pattern in its 24tombs: Fire pattern. Sun . Moon pattern, Flying angel pattern. Hill.Tree pattern, Holy animal bird Pattern. These patterns had developed specially in 3 regions that are Hwanghae-region, Pyongan-region, Jipan-region. from 4th-7th Century. A lot of fire pattern has found at Pyongan-region in 5th century. The ceiling right above 'Dori' frequently had the pattern. The pattern is organized in 'Kyoho' method. The sun.moon pattern was shown in Pyongan-region in 5th century. '3-leg bird'. representative of sun, and frog, representative of moon. were drawn in the pattern in 6th century, rabbit was added with frog in the pattern. Flying angel pattern had found most in Jipan region in 5th century. The pattern was not found in 4th century. Two types of the pattern are angels playing $$\mu$ical instruments and angels preying. The hill tree pattern was simple, antique, and immature in the beginning. the pattern had developed with real description as a landscape picture after the beginning. this pattern has been categorized as a landscape painting. Holy animal and bird patternn had placed in supporting rock between ceiling and floor with the mean of protection in after life These pattern, which were previously influenced by Chines culture, were developed with a base of Koguryo own tradition and supported establishment of a characterized Koguryo Cloture. This study will be a basic document for modern fashion industry of 21 century.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.22
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• pp.99-108
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• 2008

This research aimed to provide a scientific methodology for removing white and black/brown coloured stains on the wall paintings of tombs of Jinpari No 1 and No 4. in the Democratic People's Republic of Korea. For the analysis of chemical composition of stains of the samples from the wall paintings, a microscope and SEM/EDX were used. The analysis confirmed that the fomula of white coloured stains should be $CaSO_4$ or $CaCO_3$ and the black/brown coloured stains should be $CaSO_4$ or $CaCO_3$ with soil deposition. Because of the difficulties of testing several cleaning solutions on sample patches of large area of the painting, the author considered a risk-free cleaning solution as being the most appropriate one, with Ammonium bicarbonate and Anion exchange resin showing satisfactory cleaning effect without visible side effects. For the removal of dense layer of stains, the research suggested that physical cleaning should be followed by applying a cleaning solution.

• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.6
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• pp.47-54
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• 2005

The elements of the pigments used on the wall painting in Ssangyeongchong (Tomb of Two Pillars) from Goguryeo in the Nampo area of Pyeongyang were analyzed to confirm their mineral compositions and features of the painting. Specifically, the non-destructive X-ray fluorescence spectrometer (XRF) was used. On the other hand, the mineral composition of the background and pigment layers were analyzed using an X-ray diffractometer (XRD). The results of these analyses suggested that the lips of the characters in the painting were painted with HgS, and their faces, painted with HgS(Cinnabar/ vermilion) mixed with CaCO₃. Note that lead white pigment [2PbCO₃·Pb(OH)₂] was found only on the bottom layer of the painting, indicating that the wall painting was likely to have been created using the Secco method.