• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.1-8
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• 2002

This article is to study the ancient Korean make-up based on ancient men's and women's facial decoration. The adornment is mainly about make-up, but I didn't employ make-up in this article on the ground that it isn't an appropriate concept in men's case. The study on the ancient Korean make-up has been conducted on the basis of Goguryeo mural paintings excavated in the tombs. Contrary to the Baekje and the Silla Kingdoms, Goguryeo women's make-up carne to fashion like China. The Goguryeo mural paintings depicted women's make-up which painted their faces white and lined on the eyebrows to make them raise toward their foreheads after removing their own eyebrows. They outlined their mouths smaller than their own and, in some occasions, applied make-up differently on the upper lip and the lower lip. As the time passed by, women applied the blusher, which attests to the fact that make-up of those days was considerably developed. Unlike women, men didn't put on cosmetics but they grew beard as a symbol of adults. The beard had a diversity in shape such as goat-shaped and fan-shaped beards. It can be understood that women's make-up was applied as a manifestation of adults like men's growing beards.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.1
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• pp.159-171
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• 2018

The apron, which corresponds to an important clothing form, changed according to the taste, age, appearance and meaning of the wearer as well as from past to present. Decorative function and practical functions appear in the costumes of the East and West. Anak No. 3 tomb, Korea's 4th century Goguryeo tomb mural, was depicted in the form of a woman wearing a white apron and working in the kitchen, which is similar to that of a current kitchen, and the shape and purpose of the apron is similar to the present one. The characteristics of Korean aprons are summarized as western similarity, traditional reproducibility, and practical functionality. The U-shaped apron with the hem decoration of Goguryeo is similar to the apron of Crete with a rhombus pattern and hem decoration. Despite differences in time, it can be seen as traces of a cultural exchange across the East and the West. In addition, Korean skirts were decorated with wrinkles and a hem decoration based on rectangles. It is a reproduction of a traditional skirt and is different from a Western apron with a chest strap. In the Anak No. 3 tomb mural, women were wearing the first aprons that showed a practical functionality and not a decorative use.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
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• v.20 no.12
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• pp.460-470
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• 2020

In modern life, interior decoration has been transformed into a psychological synergistic effect of space, greatly affecting human sensibility. The main point of view in this paper is to study the discovery of new decorative effects and the possibility of products that can replace imported tiles, which account for more than 60% of the walls of indoor spaces closely related to daily life. The solution is to create point tiles using color glass plaster techniques developed in 2018 and to explore the possibility of decorating art walls to meet consumers' purchasing needs using simulations. The four patterns applied to the a paintbrush, resist printing, cutting technique, and inlaid patterns, and the traditional color development effect of the medium color suited to our sensibilities was studied. In addition, through simulation, art walls and acrylic using color glass styles were also used in the kitchen, living room and empty space of the bathroom. Based on this research, ceramic point tiles with a new perspective will be explored and the interior using walls will be activated.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.14 no.5 s.52
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• pp.80-88
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• 2005

The ondol is a uniquely Korean system of providing warmth to room. The ondol rooms never use daily life furniture because the ondol warms the floor surface where people sit. Finally, the ondol floor changed the traditional housings inner space. Before use ondol where daily life furnitures[sang(상) and Tap(탑)] are installed in the room. The origin of daily life furnitures are the ancient tomb mural of Koguryo Period. The daily life furniture can be classified as three large groups in the ancient tomb mural of Koguryo. First, a single seat[Jowa-sang(좌상)] of set up a screen[병풍]. The second, It make possible Many peoples take a seat with no decoration seat[Tap(탑)]. The third, uptodately table and chairs. A radical difference between sang(상) and Tap(탑) whether set up a screen[병풍]. The meaning of sang(상) and Tap(탑) in Koguryo ancient tomb provided Oksa-jo[옥사조] in Samkuk-sagi[삼국사기] with several valuable leads to help solve the sang(상)'s meaning. Furthermore, It will be start ponit of study on constructive shape of inner space in those days.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.2
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• pp.1-20
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• 2010

This thesis is about "manggon" that holds down man's top knot hair and its accessaries "pungjam", "kwanja". manggon was seen first time in the mural of Donwhang kae won chon bo during T'ang period (713-756). The "Tu Aek Ra" manggon shown in this mural would be the origin and beginning of maggon's usage. Also the "Sha" that was placed on top of the hair for decoration purpose is believed to be a former form of "manggon" Before the short hair cut was enforced, wearing the "kwan"(head gear) was considered as an impotant etiguette. Thus the head gear was treasured and the manggon which was the most essential piece to cover down the hair before to put on the head gear was regarded as the most important piece. However, since the manggon was tied very tightly around the forehead, manggon caused some sickness. From my private collections of man's head gears and ornament, 121 items were selected and used for analysis and the followings were found: 1. Pungjam was divided into 8 categories according to its shape and a research was made on its unique structural characteristic on each categories. 2. Kwanja's material and design that were used are all in accordance to the historical recordings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.183-199
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• 1995

Among many different approaches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by including political , militarial , economical , cultural , and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes according to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations invariety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physical activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed it role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Based on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving . Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating wit feathers . Jowoguan(조우관) is one of the examples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect , this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however men and women wear were claryly distinguished. Unlike other clothes that were restricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume . Monks wore black clothing (내의) that was influenced from China and the Western Regions(서역). To emphasize their religious power, Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of fire and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.25
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• pp.185-199
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• 1995

Among many different approches of study of history of Kokuryo clothing culture, this study attempted to understand the costume by in-cluding political, militarial, economical, cul-tural, and religious aspects of Kokuryo society. It also included pictures in mural tumbs and old studies in Kokuryo costume. Clothing culture related to political life clearly differenciated social status by restricting styles and colors of clothes accord-ing to peoples social status. Generally people in high social status wore clothes with detailed decorations in variety of colors, and also used more fabrics than people in low social status. Costume was also affected by military life style that needed to meet the vigorous physi-cal activities. High rank worriors wore iron scaled shielded clothes with red decoration on it which identified different ranks of the worriors. Economy also contributed its role to affect the clothing styles in Kokuryo. Baseed on old studies of costume, this study focused on people's life styles that included hunting and weaving. Hunting clothes were differentiated by decorating with feathers. Jowoguan is one of the exemples. Since weaving was a major economic power or factor, silk and flax were very popular. People even used those fabrics to pay tax. Regarding cultural aspect, this study emphasized on song and dance wear along with active wear. Song and dance wear specially decorated with poka dots, however means and womens wear were claryly dis-tinguished. Unlike other clothes that were re-stricted in colors and styles, song and dance wear were decorated in variety of colors. Lastly this study presents religious aspects of Kokuryo costume. Monks wore black cloth-ing that was influenced from China and the Western Regions. To emphasize their religious power. Gods in the pictures of mural tumbs wore clothes with wings and feathers. God of five and agriculture wore simple dresses without much decorations which represented simple life style of working class.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.228-235
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• 2011

The 卍 shape which is used as an aesthetical feature for traditional architecture can be seen in the stair railings of the house shaped ceramic potteries in the Eastern Han dynasty(A.D. 25-220) but with the introduction of Buddhism, it has been widely used for the decoration of the sarira(small crystals of the cremated monks) case. After the shape was seen in the Yungang and Dunhwang grottoes mural paintings, the use of it has been expanded. In Korea during the excavation of the Gyeongju Anapji which was the Eastern palace of the Shilla dynasty, a 卍 shaped wood which had been used as a handrail was found and this shape was also used in the railings of the Shilsangsa Baekjangarn temple stone pagoda and lantern and in the sarira case excavated in the Songrimsa temple stone pagoda. In Japan, the Nara period(A.D. 710-794) when there were many cultural exchanges with the Korean peninsula, the handrails of the 2ndfloor of the main hall of Hoyu-ji temple has a 卍 shape. This can be confirmed that this shape has been widely used as a design in Asian Buddhist architecture. Gilsangoonhae(吉祥雲海) which is the symbolic meaning of this shape means for long life and luck which had been used generally for the window designs of temples, palaces, and houses. In this study, it is giving the definition the beginning and the symbolic meaning of the 卍 shape which is being used from the ancient times until nowadays and the change of this shape used for window designs.

• Acta Via Serica
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• v.7 no.2
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• pp.1-38
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• 2022

Many knotted carpets from western China and Central Asia from 700 BCE to 700 CE demonstrate strong resemblances to the Assyrian-Persian stone reliefs and Hellenistic-Romanmosaics. Egypt reveals the earliest samples in plain linen fiber and carpets with colorful designs in the mural paintings. The Egyptian wall decoration in faience shows the motifs of waterlily in two variations in the design, both of which appear in the Assyrian floor thresholds designs. The same waterlily or four-petal design in the Egyptian and Assyrian stonework also appear in the Pazyryk knotted carpet in the same manner. The Assyrian thresholds show a composition with a central area and borders in a square or rectangular overall design, which again parallels the Pazyryk carpet. The ideas of composition and motifs commonly seen in the Hellenistic and Roman mosaics appear in the carpets of Central Asia and western China. The similarities between the stone mosaic works and carpets demonstrate clearly that the remote places and peoples in ancient times learned from, and exchanged with, each other the ideas and artistic styles, and integrated to create some local artistic traditions, thanks to the roles the easy-to-carry textiles played throughout the Silk Road. The carpets played their roles: as practical material for daily use, and as carrier of cultural information through their designs.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.49 no.2
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• pp.20-55
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• 2016

Koguryo's tomb mural paintings in North Korea are our precious cultural heritage which have been designated as UNESCO World Heritage property receiving high praise in the following criterion, i) exceptional creativeness of human being, ii) representative value showing the stage of development in construction history of East-Asia, iii) aesthetic superiority iv) uniqueness of building construction including tombs' ceiling. Mural paintings have been found from almost 100 tombs of the Koguryo dynasty out of 130 which are scattered across Huanren County, Lianoning Province, Ji'an, Jilin Province in China and Pyongyang in North Korea. Especially, most of them are gathered in Pyongyang from 4th and 5th century. Peculiarly, some of them have been constructed before King Jangsu's transfer of the capital to Pyongyang(AD 427). It can be regarded that Pyongyang territory had been under control of Koguryo and to become a new capital in the near future. And dense emergence of such tombs since the capital transfer from Gungnae City to Pyongyang during the reign of Jangsu is linked closely to the construction of tombs for rulers under strengthen royal authority of Jangsu and centralized system of authoritarian rule. Tomb mural paintings describe the owner's figure pictorially based on the truth just as in his living years. General lifestyles of ruling powers and sovereigns can be seen from the wall paintings portraying several buildings with various styles, figures, manners of living, which are considered that the tomb owner had led politically and sociologically in his life. In spite of not enough proofs to approve figure of architectures or "Gong-Po" in wall paintings on the tombs as those of Koguryo, it is persuasive with consideration for painting and decoration inside the tomb like wooden building in real life for the purpose of reenacting and continuing the tomb owner's luxurious life after death. "Du-Gong-Po-Zak" had appeared in company with Koguryo tomb murals and it can be found in most of the murals. And the emergence of substantial "Gong-Po-Do" can be counted more than a century ahead of the figure in murals. It could be a reasonable assumption as regards Koguryo tomb murals time of appearance match up with production period of Gahyungmyunggi(家形明器) and Hwasangseok(畵像石) Hwasangjeon(畵像塼) Design in the Mural Painting of the East-Han(東漢) Ancient Tombs in China. On this study, architectural "Gong-Po"s described in Koguryo tomb murals are categorized largely in "Bi(non)-Po-Zak-kye", "Jun(semi)-Po-Zak-kye", and "Po-Zak-kye" based on presence of "Ju-Du", "Cheom-Cha", and "Cheom-Cha-Sal-Mi" with developmental aspect, and, "Po-zak" is subdivided as "Bi(non)-Cheul-Mok" and "Cheul-Mok" types.