• Title/Summary/Keyword: Mongolian costume

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A Study on the Shape, Characteristic, and Investigated Design of Goryeo-Achungunsura-Jisun (고려 아청운수라 질손의 형태와 의미 규명 및 고증 디자인 연구)

  • Choi, Jeong
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.1
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    • pp.135-146
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the $13-14^{th}$ century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the $14^{th}$ century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the $12^{th}$ century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.

A Study on the Transformation and Transformational Factors in Mongolian Women's Costumes -Focusing of Women's Costumes of Mongol.Yuan Era - (몽골여자복식의 변천 및 요인에 관한 연구 -몽골.원 제국기 복식을 중심으로-)

  • 최해율;남윤자;조우현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.52 no.4
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    • pp.111-123
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to correctly understand the shaping process of Mongolian women's costumes, which had close connection with Korean costumes. 'Nomadic' factors of Mongol costumes are trousers and jacket, with deel(袍) pleated in the waistline for horse riding, and knee-covering narrow-sleeved long dress for men and women alike for protection against the cold. However, Married women wore bogthag(gogo: ) containing symbols derived from nomadic way of life. 'Foreign' factors are divided into two kinds; foreign culture applied to Mongolian costumes(woven stuff, Koryo style), and transformation in costumes to adjust to the environmental alteration owing to extended territory(pigap(比甲), Jacket and skirt), the last of which served as the chief distinction between nomadic and Y an fashions. 'Religious' factors are unique patterns and colors while retaining their symbolism. Some aspects(mongke tengri or eternal sky) of Shamanism is reflected in avoidance of washing, while positive effect of Lamanism is evidenced in yellow cosmetic applied on the forehead and 16 sky devil dance clothes.dance clothes.

Luxury value-based segmentation, brand personality, and purchase behavior of Mongolian female consumers (몽골 여성 소비자의 명품 소비가치 세분화와 브랜드 개성 및 구매행동에 관한 연구)

  • Amarjargal, Ganbold;Kim, Jonghoon;Park, Jee-Sun
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.26 no.3
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    • pp.427-449
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    • 2018
  • The current study aimed to segment Mongolian female consumers based on luxury consumption values and to compare lifestyle, demographic characteristics, purchase behavior, and perceived brand personality among the segments. The survey was administered to consumers who had purchased luxury products in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia. A total of 184 surveys were used for data analysis. Exploratory factor analysis revealed five luxury values: quality value, hedonic value, conspicuous value, social value, and unique value. Using the five luxury values, clustering analysis was conducted, showing that there were four distinct segments: passive shoppers, showoffs, rational value groups, and hedonists. ANOVAs and chi-square analyses revealed that these four segments differed in consumption values, demographic characteristics, lifestyle dimensions (including appearance consciousness, leisure orientation, life enjoyment, and achievement orientation), and purchase behavior (including purchase frequency, price of products purchased, and product selection criteria). Moreover, value segments showed differences in five dimensions of luxury brand personality: sincerity, professionalism/attractiveness, excitement, materialism, and sophistication. The results suggest that consumption values serve as a significant basis for segmentation. Furthermore, the current study indicates that value segments can be described as consumers' perceived brand personality. The study concludes with a discussion of the results, theoretical and practical implications, and limitations.

Mongolian National Costumes Reflected in the Oral Literature and Popular Rituals

  • Shin, Kang;Chultemsuren, R.
    • International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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    • v.3
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    • pp.37-49
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    • 2003
  • In the oral literature of the Mongolians such as folk-tales, legend, epics, poetry, songs, riddles etc., there are endless examples describing various stories about the origin of the costumes, ornaments and accessories, or the way how they were designed and changed with the times and how they correspond with relevant customs, public rituals and etiquette in general. In this paper we argue that every piece of the Mongolian national costumes and wear in general has specific meaning and symbolism, which is still the miraculous universe waiting to be unveiled properly. As for the Mongolians, the costumes and accessories mean the treasury of intellectual culture of their own as well as their daily necessities of life. There are still many undiscovered features of ancient national culture, apart from characteristics of various tribes and clans of the Mongolians.

A Study on the Term 'Cholik' (철릭의 명칭에 관한 연구)

  • Lee Eun Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.12 no.3 s.28
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    • pp.363-371
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    • 1988
  • The present paper mainly conerns with the four controversial issues: the exact period in which the Cholik was introduced into Korea, the morphological characteristics, the phonological and semantic aspects of the term itself. First, upon the political and serial ground, the Cholik was introduced at the later part of mid-koryo dynasty. Second, the original form of 'Cholik' was modeled after the Mongolian 'pyok-jok-po', an outwear with pleated skirt. Third, the term 'cholik' was derived from Mongolian 'terlig'. It came through China with the Chinese letters but the term maintained the Mongolian sound. The variety of the present pronunciations like 'chorik', 'chonik', 'chomni' and various notations in Chinese letters could be attributed to different phonological changes and analogy. Last, th original meaning of cholik was somewhat similar to 'militia' or 'soldier', but the social function of the wearer gradually discolored to indicate only the costume for lower officials or the military uniform.

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A Study the Costume of Kublai Khan of the Kublai Khan on a Hunting Trip (원세조출엽도 중의 세조 복식 연구)

  • Koh Bou-Ja;Choi Kyu-Soon
    • The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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    • v.13 no.4 s.57
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    • pp.658-670
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    • 2005
  • Kublai Khan on a Hunting Trip were painted by Liu Guan-dao. This painting gives us very important information for understanding cosume of Yuan dynasty because of realistic description. We studied the name of costume of the king Shizu in this painting by using the way of comparison his costume with another paintings, the records and archaeological finds. This study showed that the costume of the king Shizu is judged to be Jisun, the traditional costume of Mongolian own meaning one colour. The name of each is the Yinshu warm hat, being making into the for of a kind of rodents, the Yinshu Jisun, the Red colour Jisun, being railed on the robe, and the Cloud boots cover. And we found that the decoration on the neck and sleeve tib of the Yinshu Jisun had been made by sable furs, and the decoration on the surface had been made by tails of them, going by the name of Rondes at that time. It also showed that the meaning of one colour of the Jisun is not only just appearing one colour on the one person but also being able to appear two set of one colour.

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The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history (중국 소수민족의 복식 연구(1))

  • 박춘순
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.26
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    • pp.175-206
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    • 1995
  • The costume culture of China is as old and varied as her long history. As China is a multiracial nation and consists of fifty-six min-ority races including Han race, there are not only fifty-six different costumes in China but each races' costume habit is very different. Therefore, Chinese penninsula can be considered an enor-mous exhibition center of the costumes. This study undertook on the assumption that the costumes' mainstream of Korea and east-northern Asia as well as that of China could be examined by investigating the minority races' costumes in the east-and west-northern areas of China. The process of evolution of the costume of a particular people, country or area is subject not only to constraints related to geography such as climate, topography or local products but is also affected by numorous environmental influences including cultural, economic, social and even pol-itical ones in terms of the selection of material, styling, color and standard of tailoring. In other words, things like philosophy of life, religious be-lief, aesthetic outlook, moral code, class system, degree of affluence, and cultural exchange will all be reflected directly or indirectly by features of a people's or country's style costume. Of course, there are several factors affecting to the style of costume of the minority people in China. However, the only three factors-geo-graphical and environmental, production method, and religious belef-will be touched in this study. First of all, the geograghical and eenviron-mental factor would be the decisive one because the costume should be designed to overcome the constraints of climate and geographical environ-ments. Accordingly, each race has an unique style of costume. The costume of the minority races in the northern parts are loose and wide, and made of warm furs. For instance, Mongolian robe has the quality of anti-wind, anti-cold and warmness, and the width of a sleeve is narrow and long. Secondly, the costume style can be said to be limited by the production pattern, when the geo-graphical environment was affected to decide the costume style, the production pattern was together affected to it . In case of Mongolian robe, they should satisfy the dual condition as the practical function. One is the condition that they should be fitted to the climate, and the other is the condition that they should be suit-able to the nomadic life. Mongolian robes are suitable to the nomadic peoples because they are designed for not only overcoming the cold wind and weather but being used as the bedquit at night. The costumes of Hoche people was made of the skin of the fish and wild animals because of their main means of living being fishing and hunting. Accordingly, their costumes are dur-able, warm and water-proof. Finally, the style of the costume is affected by the religious belief. In other words, the pattern in fashion is closely related with the religious be-lief or ancestor worship and nature worship. Ac-cordingly, the symbols of these worship are often emerged in the decoration of the costume. The design of costume of the people in the northern areas of China is very simple. It is related with their monotheism. On the other hand, the costumes of twen쇼 minority races in the east-northern parts of China can be devided into three racial groups such as the long robes of Man people and Mongols, Tunics of the peoples in the west-northern areas, and the pants and jackets of Hoche people. The minorority races all has not only the unique costume habit but their costumes are also related with their living style and production means.

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A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century- (영상물 제작을 위반 고증 의상 디자인 연구 -13-14세기의 고려양과 몽골풍의 귀부녀 복식을 중심으로-)

  • Choi, Hai-Yaul
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.1 s.110
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    • pp.176-186
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to reconstruct upper class women's costume of 'Mongol-pung' and 'Goryeo-yang' in a civilization-exchanged period between Mongolia and Korea, for making movie or soap opera costume and historical animation. 'Mongol-pung' was a cultural influence from Mogolia to Korea. For example, sleeveless bi-gap(比甲) and half-sleeved dap-ho(搭忽) were put on by many women at that time. On the basis of old literature, I suggest a 'Mongol-pung' costume as a set of seeran-chulrik(膝欄 terlig), em-broidered bigap, dapho of meat-red color for women. 'Goryeo-yang' was a cultural influence from Korea to Mongolia. Due to old poem of Yuan, 'Short outer Jacket with square neckline, half sleeves, and clear color(方領過腰半臂)' was a representative of 'Goryeo-yang' in Mongolian royal women's costumes. Many women were dressed in it with short inner jacket and wide skirt. In the case of making soap opera costume, the budget of broadcasting station, appearence of nowaday's actor and actress, similarity between old fabric and modern fabric must be considered altogether.

Structural Characteristics of the Mongolian Costume called YosunOja - Focus on the Medieval Finds from the Tomb Minshui, Neimenggu - (몽골 요선오자의 구조적 특징 - 내몽골 명수묘 출토 요선오자를 중심으로 -)

  • Kim Moon-Sook
    • Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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    • v.6 no.3
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    • pp.9-18
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    • 2004
  • This study focuses on the medieval Mongol costume called YosunOja. This dress consists of a blouse and a skirt, and some lines on the waist part. The purpose of the study is to analyse the structural characteristics of this costume, especially on the medieval remains from the tomb Mingshui in the district of Neimenggu. It can be analysed that this costume has three structural characteristics, which are the functional structure, sumptuous one, and the idea of Buddhism. The functional structure consists of the style with a blouse and a skirt, which gives enough surplus for the movement, the back-slash for the ease of the riding, and the dart in the front line which eliminates unnecessary surplus. The sumptuous structure is the many lines of the waist which show the maximization of the decoration, the extraordinary long sleeves, and the use of the expensive gold brocade which shows the wealth of the dresser. And also, the cutting of the fabric into the numerous segment may mean the medieval Mongols believed in Buddhism.

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A Study on Moja of Jilson in Yuan Dynasty (원대 질손복 중 '모자'에 관한 고찰)

  • Choi Kyu-Soon;Bao Ming-Xin
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.2 s.101
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    • pp.125-133
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    • 2006
  • The term Moja(毛子) is the name of Jilson(質孫), the traditional costume of Mongolian own meaning one colour. Mo generally means woolen or worsted fabric, so most scholars also regarded Moja as the same. This paper studied the kind of fabric of Moja by using the way of studying the cultural exchange between ancient Korea and China. This study showed that Moja is ramie instead of woolen or worsted fabric. It also showed that its name was born the long history of the cultural exchanging process between China and Korea. Moja was written as Musi(木絲) or Mosi(沒絲) at China in early period, and changed to Mosi(毛施) in ancient Korean. It was changed to Chinese Maozi in later period.