• 한국의류학회지
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• 제48권2호
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• pp.382-396
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• 2024

"Keunmeori", the grand headdress with various decorations attached to thickly braided and raised hair has been used as a bride's formal attire since the Joseon Dynasty, and in the modern period, new styles known as goegye and hyuche appeared as formal attire for civil weddings. Goegye was formed from a round wooden pillar wrapped with hair and decorated richly with ornaments; getting married with goegye meant that the wife was officially married. Hyuche was made by braiding the hair into two long plaits and decorating it with colorful fluttering hairpins and gold leaf hair ribbons. Hyuche was originally formal attire for a princess at her wedding, and it is thought to have been less frequently used in the private sector due to its higher cost than goegye. The style of goegye appears to have been influenced by the susik, the highest formal attire for a queen, and in particular, the decorations on the circular top part of the susik were presumed to have been similarly reproduced in folk weddings. Goegye changed in various aspects according to the social environment and atmosphere of the times, and was also used as formal attire for a prince's wife.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2004

Since Korea disclaimed to open the ports, Korean architecture has met the impetuous transformation. Although there would be various factors of this transformation, the new-coming architecture by missionary seemed to be a significant one, and many researches have been carried out on this theme in diverse viewpoints. However, because these researches have preponderated on the Catholic tradition, it is deficient for clarify the whole history of mission architecture. Therefore, this research has the meaning to enrich the history of Korean modern architecture by making balance. First of all, this paper is focused on the activities of one missionary, Graham Lee. He is a practical missionary at the beginning, his architecture made a critical influence in Korean traditional architecture. Graham Lee was born in Rock Island, Illinois, 1861, and he determined to become a missionary through grown up. He spent his boyhood by working as a plumber for his purpose and studied in a university afterward. Graduating of McComick Theological Seminary, he was nominated as a pioneer of Pyeng Yang Mission Station and set foot in Korea, September of 1892. Since then he started to erect missionary facilities in Pyeng Yang, such as Well House(1898), Pyeng Yang Central Church(1900-1901), Pyeng Yang Academy(1902). These all his works are designed with eclectic style which shows western and Korean traditional style intermingled. This unique characteristic made a profound influence to the Korean mission architecture afterwards. Especially, the L-type plan of Pyeng Yang Central Church, which is first shown by him, is recognized very unique, and this plan type had been spread all over the country. Therefore the L-type plan became the peculiar feature of the early Korean churches. Furthermore, working with Korean carpenters, he taught them new skills of modem buildings. After that, they were expanded out northern part of Korea and took the roles of master builders. According to this expansion, his particular style had got spread and had been settled as a unique eclectic style in Korean modern architecture. In the conclusion, he is evaluated to be a critical pioneer missionary, who left a big influence on the frame work of Korean modern architecture in the transitional times.

• 한국산학기술학회논문지
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• 제17권6호
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• pp.360-371
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• 2016

폴 루돌프의 플로리다 지역 주택은 2차 세계대전 이후 형식적인 근대 건축에서 탈피한 다양한 공간 구성, 지역 재료 및 구법의 사용으로 지역적 특성을 반영한 사례이다. 플로리다 주택 작품은 시대적, 지역적인 특성을 기반으로 하여 공간의 확장 및 연결 그리고 지역 환경을 고려한 재료 및 구법, 구조 시스템을 표현해야 한다는 설계 개념이 반영된 건축이다. 플로리다 주택의 특성은 공간 확장 및 외부 공간 연결 기법으로 목재 구조체를 중심으로 한 공간 확장과 가변적 공간구현 그리고 외부공간의 적극적인 연계성을 유도하기 위하여 다양한 방법(스크린 지붕, 오픈 지붕, 내부 파티오)을 사용하였다. 그리고 지역 재료 사용 그리고 지역 환경에 적합한 디테일 및 구법 사용으로 플로리다 지역의 석회암과 사이프러스 목재를 주된 재료로 사용하고, 고온 다습한 기후에 적합한 디테일과 지역 건설 환경을 고려한 구법을 사용하였다. 폴 루돌프의 플로리다 주택 연구를 통하여 현대 건축의 지역성을 고려한 계획에 구체적으로 적용 가능한 공간적, 기술적 적용 방법에 대한 모범사례로서 제안하는데 그 의미를 찾고자 한다.

• 한국항해항만학회지
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• 제33권5호
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• pp.361-368
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• 2009

지금까지의 집합주거를 살펴보면 건축의 역사를 통해 일반적 혹은 보편적으로 생각되는 형태가 존재함을 알 수 있다. 왜냐하면 집합주거는 형태적으로 변화가 어렵기 때문이다. 최근 세계적인 해양강국인 네덜란드에는 이러한 전형적인 형태와는 매우 다른 집합주거 작품들이 많이 건립되었다. 이 연구는 바로 이러한 작품들의 형태적 특징에 초점을 둔다. 네덜란드 독특한 집합주거들은 현대사회의 다양한 요구를 만족시키기 위한 시도임과 동시에 근대건축의 전형적인 형태들을 탈피하고자 하는 노력의 결과이다. 일반적인 형태의 집합주기에 대하여 이러한 독특한 형태의 건축물은 유형학적 측면에서 볼 때 건축적 신-유형이라 할 수 있다. 이러한 맥락에서 이 연구의 목적은 현대 집합주거건축의 유형적 변화에 내재된 의미를 밝히는 것이다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제24권6호
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• pp.45-55
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• 2015

After the Korean war, two major attempts were made to reconstruct Gwanghwamun Gate as an important part of Korea's lost cultural heritage. In December 2006, the Korean government replaced the concrete gate with a wooden one, yet traces of the attempts made in the 1960s to transform Gwanghwamun Gate and the main road remain to this day. At the time, the Third Republic of Korea, sought to legitimize itself in the name of modernity, and went on to modernize the architecture and urban landscape of Seoul. The location and design selected for the rebuilt Gwanghwamun illustrated the symbolic relationship between historic heritage and urban development. The reconstruction of the gate began as part of the Third Republic's project to restore the Central Administration Building and culminated in the transformation of the main road in front of the gate. By reconstructing the traditional gate using concrete, the military government intended to convey the message that we could inherit our proud tradition using modern materials, and that we should actively adopt the new technologies of the modern era. This study begins with the premise that the Gwanghwamun reconstruction project of 1968 represents the application of new technological thinking to Korea's architectural style, and has two objectives. The first is to summarize the reconstruction process and method using the records and drawings from the 1968 project, which was then under the leadership of architect Kang Bong-jin. The second is to analyze the characteristics of the architectural style and structure of the reconstructed Gwanghwamun so as to reinterpret the relationship between Korean tradition and modern technology.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권1호
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• pp.55-65
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• 2014

This study analyzes music visualization characteristics in modern fashion based on Wassily Kandinsky's music visualization theory. Alexander McQueen's 2014 Spring Ready-to-wear Collection (as inspired by Mondrian's paintings) was selected as the research subject. First, an analysis of Mondrian's paintings based on Wassily Kandinsky's theory shows that music visualization characteristics can be categorized into spatiality, mobility, and duality. Second, McQueen applied Mondrian's paintings to the overall design, structured the model's shape in the painting, or created patterns using colors and lines that introduced them in clothes; symbolic forms were also introduced as part of or a decorative factor of the clothes. Third, spatiality refers to the creation of a feeling of space through emptiness or fill using lines, colors, and shape. Musical atmosphere such as dissonance were expressed in clothing through the application of color contrast, lines and silhouette dynamics, and symbolic format and patterns by Mondrian. Fourth, mobility generally refers to motion caused by a certain stimulus. Mondrian expressed vibration, internal resonance, sound level in music that emphasized color irregularity, primary color contrast, and rough brush touches as well as free and organic patterns. McQueen expressed this with primary color contrast using different materials, rough touch based on texture, and pattern repetition through transformation. Fifth, duality generally refers to the artistic effect caused by overlap. Mondrian created a resemblance of dissonance and music through line and color as expressed through the duality of clothing design components based on the artistic sense of the designer.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.737-754
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• 2015

The structural aesthetics of architecture are becoming an inspirational source for many fashion designers and have been reborn in structural fashion. This study planned to analyze the method of expression of structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design and the construction method to maximize such an effect on the basis of the construction characteristic of Santiago Calatrava as the representative architect of the structural aesthetic. According to the study, the structural aesthetics expressed in modern structural fashion design are as follows: 1) The symbolical formative aesthetic expressed by symbolical inference and analyzation; 2) the dynamic beauty of physic expressed by visual emphasis and dynamics; and 3) the asymmetric beauty of symmetry expressed by metastasis toward the boundary between balance and imbalance. In addition, to maximize structural aesthetics, we used repetition and a progressive technique based on rhythm, asymmetry, and incision-based variances, such as balance, polygon flux, and inference, and analyzation-based distortion as the structuring principle. The following expression methods for maximizing structural aesthetics were found: 1) symbolical and structural exaggeration of appearance; 2) detail technique expansion and material property diversification; and 3) the three-dimensional transformation of structure and shell expression. Structural fashion design was found to have maximized structural aesthetics by using such expression methods to secure artistic esthetics, destroy existing shapes and patterns, and create unique shapes.

• 한국가구학회지
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.328-340
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• 2008

This study examined the characteristics of furniture design in the early Modernism that occurred in the early 20th Century through the relationship with modern arts. The furniture design of the early Modernism was established in the early 20th Century based on the simplicity and honesty of the Art and Crafts Movement and Anti-Historicism in Art Nouveau. During this period, the necessity of mass production became critical due to the radical industrialization and new social demands. In such periodic stream, the furniture design of the early modernism pursued simplicity and geometric beauty based on functionalism. The efforts to discover the fundamental structure of furniture were intensified. It was not limited to furniture design but was also exercised in the huge periodic transformation that progressed in every field of art including architecture. The Modernism art has also been connected to Cubism and spread into an abstract direction. While questioning the potential essence and progressing the study on genuine characteristics, the Modernism art tried to return things into their substantial looks and reorganize them conceptually, rather than reproducing external objects. The furniture that was secondary to a part of architecture and interior accessory transcended its decorative purpose. It pursued the structure to follow its fundamental purpose as furniture. Such tendency corresponded to the direction that Post-Modernism followed. Likewise, both art and design had the revivable and abstract characteristics based on the identical objective in ideology. For this reason, the formative and geometric characteristics of the early modernism furniture design have a mutual relationship with modern arts. Particularly, such tendency intensified and progressed through the Bauhaus in Germany. Based on such facts, this study proved that the early Modernism furniture design in the 20th Century tended to appear in common arts including the art and design according to the social demand of the huge periodic stream. Furthermore, the ideology that was adopted in art and design, as well as its formative characteristics, was examined through the mutual relationship of modern arts and design.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.24-32
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to understand characteristic of expression in Korean style fashion design and investigated Korean style fashion design's deployment and design idea method as well as its esthetic value. The photographs for the research were selected from fashion collections during S/S 2003-F/W 2007 by four specialists in the department of textile and then analyzed with 288 final data. The results were as followings. First, the characteristics of design expression in Korean style fashion design were formation by separating partial shape from the whole, formation by shape's separation and repetition, and connecting formation by combination and transformation of parts. In the case of color, they were direct expression, contrasting formative expression, and gradual changing expression. In the case of pattern, they were the methods of filling, filling & emptying, and partial filling. Second, the deployments of Korean style fashion design were adding modern elements to traditional things, combining traditional elements and modern things, and adding traditional elements to modern things. The third, Korean style fashion design's idea methods were weaving, snatching, adding, and changing. Fourth, it was shown that esthetic values of Korean style fashion design were the interactive organism by building organic relationship, the optimum expressing beauty with minimum elements, the palpitation having dynamics and rhythmical beauty.

• 한국철학논집
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• 제32호
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• pp.215-249
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• 2011

본고는 서양 근대 문명 수용 초기(1890~1910)에 발생한 신구 관념의 대립과 충돌을 중심으로 전통 지식 체계의 변용을 역사의미론적으로 탐색함으로써 한국의 근대를 성찰하는 데 목적이 있다. 한국에서 신구 관념을 놓고 벌어진 주체 간의 투쟁은 전통개신론자들과 문명개화론자들의 주장에서 첨예하게 드러났다. 서양의 충격에서 비롯된 신구 관념의 대립과 충돌은 우주 자연으로부터 사회 정치체제, 학술?문화 등 모든 부문에서 인식의 전환을 요구하였지만, 전통 지식 체계를 이해하는 시각에는 다소 차이가 있었다. 신구 관념에 따른 전통 지식 체계의 구축과 변용과정에서 문명개화론자들에게 '구(舊)'는 단순히 과거의 '지나간', '오래된' 것이 아니라 파괴하고 제거하지 않으면 새로운 문명 건설을 방해하는 장애물이었다. 그러나 전통개신론자들에게 '구(舊)'는 '온고지신(溫故知新)'의 이념 속에서 다시 '신(新)'으로 거듭날 수 있는 가능성을 내함하고 있는 '개신(改新)'의 대상이었다. 박은식의 "유교구신론(儒敎求新論)"이나 한용운의 "조선불교유신론(朝鮮佛敎維新論)"은 전통 지식 체계를 '신학(新學)'으로 재편하려한 대표적인 시도였다. 보편성과 객관성, 합리성을 추구하는 과학적 방법을 수용함으로써 전통 지식 체계는 근대적인 학문으로 변화할 수 있었다. 그러나 신학(新學)으로 변화하는 과정에서 성학(聖學)으로서의 위상은 탈각되었고, 신앙과 종교적 전통 또한 약화될 수밖에 없었다. 이러한 전통 지식 체계의 변용과 '구학의 신학화' 과정에서 신구 관념의 교차가 발생하였다. 여기서 특히 신구 관념의 교차를 가능하게 한 '실(實)(학(學))' 개념에 주목할 필요가 있다. 20세기 전후 발간된 다종의 근대 매체는 신구 관념의 다층적 전개 양상을 여실히 보여주는데, 전통 지식 체계가 신학(新學)으로 변용될 수 있었던 계기로서 '실학'이라는 개념적 준거틀이 작동하였음을 확인할 수 있다. 물론 이 시기 실학이 지칭하는 대상은 대체로 서양의 학문인 '신학(新學)'을 표상하고 심지어 등치되기도 했지만, 전통개신론자들은 문명개화론자들이 점유하였던 '실학' 개념과 그 의미를 재해석함으로써 전통 지식 체계를 신학으로 바꿀 수 있었다. 이들은 과학 기술에 압도되어 점차로 거세되어가던 전통적 가치를 '신학' 수용의 토대로 인식하고, '실학(實學)'을 개념을 준거로 하여 '신학(新學)'을 재전유(再專有)(re-appropriation)하였다. 일제의 강점이 구체화 되어 전통 지식 체계의 주체적 변용 시도는 일정한 한계에 직면할 수밖에 없었지만 '구학의 신학화'는 '동도서기(東道西器)' 논리가 지닌 모순과 문명개화론의 탈주체성을 넘어서는 것으로 평가할 수 있다. 도덕 원리와 경쟁 원리가 충돌하고 '진화'와 '진보'가 대세인 현실에 대응하려했던 '동도서기(東道西器)' 논리는 이미 분리될 수 없는 도(道)와 기(器)를 분리 가능한 것으로 상정해야만 성립되는 모순을 안고 있었고, 문명개화론은 서양을 내면화하여 자기 비하와 멸시로 주체의 균열을 야기하고 전통 지식 체계로부터 단절됐다는 비판에서 자유로울 수 없기 때문이다.