• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.113-129
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• 1999

The purpose of this study is to discover the changes and characteristis of modern knitwears from the 1920's to the 1990's. The result of this study is as follows: The popular knitwears in the 1920's had a simple boxy-line and modern unisex image with a sporty look. The knitwears in the 1930's-1950's had seen more short, feminine detail and texture, fit silhouette with syntheyic fibers. In the 1960's, the knitwears of sporty look and unisex style was popularized by young peaples, and crochet with handkniting by the fiber artists was popularized. In the 1970's-80's, the layered looks and unisex styles of knitwears were popularized by influence of a ecology mood and a woman movemant. And various patterns was developed with the computer machine. The items of outer knitwear was increased by the use of fancy yarns and the knitwears as the total fashion was popularized. In the 1990s, the knitwears had a very forceful characteristics by the mixed style and the technique of design developed into the post-modernism. The key words of the character of the modern knitwears are funtional pursuit, unisex, high value, hightechnique, art. By the change of the life style and the develope of technical innovation, the knitwears will be the key item to leading the fashion in the 21th.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.1 s.66
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• pp.113-126
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• 2007

Since the ancient times, black has been the most valuable color. Also, it has played a more important role in a history of fashion than other colors. In general, black was regarded as a color of negative images. However, as people have recognized the aesthetic value of black color, they have expressed unique and various images of black through the medium of clothes. This studies on images of black dress for woman was based on reference to literatures and valid investigations. The images toward black clothing are categorized by study participants' perceptions according to age, marital status and education. The result was as followed. Dignity and modernity were the most frequently cited image of black dress among women followed by feminine, sorrow, sensuality, and abstinence. Age significantly affected the recognition of black dress images. Woman showed significant difference in recognizing dignity, modernity, sensuality, and sorrow in black dress according to their age. Woman more strongly recognize dignity and modernity in black dress when they are younger, while increasingly recognizing abstinence and sensuality in black dress as they become older. Marital status significantly affected woman's recognition of black dress. They showed meaningful difference in recognizing dignity, modernity, and abstinence in black color. In sum, single women recognized more easily dignity and modernity in black dress and less easily abstinence than married women. Women also showed the trend with relation to education level. In general, as women got higher education, they also increasingly recognized dignity and modernity in black dress.

• Journal of English Language & Literature
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• v.56 no.5
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• pp.797-821
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• 2010

This paper aims to explore how Millay's love sonnets rewrite the carpe diem tradition in the complicated ways. This paper redirects critical attention away from Millay's individual experience and inner self toward the scene of literary history, suggesting that there may be more historical consciousness in Millay's sentimental and feminine "gesture." Rewriting the carpe diem tradition, Millay's sonnets reveal an awareness of the dependence of the carpe diem poems' discursive logic on the woman's coyness, its inability to accomplish its triumph over woman or time (death) without her posited reluctance. Contrary to Andrew Marvel's "To His Coy Mistress," the speakers of Millay's sonnets could never be accused of the sexual coyness; they are outspoken in their defiance of both death and lovers whose possessiveness resembles death's embrace. Moreover, as Stacy Carson Hubbard points out, by converting female sexual experience from its status as a onetime closural event to repeatable one, hence an opportunity for the general and emotional irritability productive of narrative, Millay seizes for the woman the power of "dilation" in both its sexual and its verbal forms. Furthermore, this paper argues that the woman's sex no longer invites analogies to things secret and sealed, preserved or ruined in Millay's sonnets. The woman's promiscuity implies a rejection of monumentalizing love, as well as a refusal of the fixing inherent in the carpe diem's fearful invocation of the movement of time. Throughout the love sonnets, the speaker's sexualized body produces nothing but ephemera. For Millay, this body spends its powers in hopes of having them, and the force of this spending is a perpetual and willful forgetting, which makes possible the repetition of love's story. Ultimately, Milly disturbs our critical categories by rendering permeable boundaries between modern literature and dead form of classic literature, the female speaker and male speaker.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.14 no.3 s.43
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• pp.53-76
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• 2005

Through a field study of the folk houses, 'Closed ㄱㄴ Type' in Goyang-si, Gyonggj-do, focused on the dweller's life by the method of ethnographic interview, observation, and physical survey. L and opposite L type of inner and outer buildings form a closed inner court, and innermost backyard for woman is enclosed by fence. Form and space of the house contains dweller's traditional life. Outer space of a front gate becomes semiprivate space, for thrashing and piling up harvest and raising vegetables and pigs. Confucius principle does not fully dominate dweller's life of ancestral rite at Daecheong floor, and separation of man's and woman's quarter. Superstitious worship activities took place for lord of site and house. In everyday life, Anbang, inner main room, is assigned for parent's quarter instead of woman's quarter, and Geornbang, next room, was for son's family. Anbang has symbolic meaning for a place of deathbed. House contains agricultural activities, crop harvesting, thrashing, putting into storage, hulling rice, and keeping grain near kitchen. At present, rooms are needed more; sheds are made into rooms, rooms are enlarged toward outside, half outside space like Daechong floor becomes interior space by sash screen. And modern facilities of kitchen and bathroom are equipped for convenience. At the end, meaning and generative principle of those forms are discovered.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.102-114
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• 2000

The works of the Futurism were developed along with manifestos and statement in publishing. Futurist aesthetic and ideological agenda on futurist fashion displayed in manifestos on clothes. Futurist fashion propagated in consummate Futurist style through the written manifesto. The Futurists anticipated much of modern fashion phenomenon. In Futurist Men's Clothing, men's clothing is aggressive, agile, dynamic, simple and comfortable, hygienic, gay, luminous, volatile, asymmetric and variable. In Futurist Manifesto on Woman's Clothing, woman is now a principal agent of revolt, a walking synthesis of the audacious, performance-oriented aesthetic of the futurist universe. For Futurist woman's clothing they claimed ingenuity, daring, and economy. The Futurist Manifesto of Italian Hat was continued with their provocative style and radical ambition. Their innovation will rescue a lagging Italian expert and restore the Italian male to his former Iatin Vigor. Speed, dynamic, utility, and funtionality are the main characters. In Futurist Manifesto of Italian Cravat, Futurist cravat is called Anti-cravatta, which is anti-traditional style and made of unconventional materials. In general, the Futurist argued for clothes that promoted simple and functionality. These Futurist fashion project were invention of the new style, avant-garde style, in daily wear and were realized for the renewal of taste in clothing design as a modernizing factors.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.4 s.113
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• pp.126-142
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• 2007

The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.61 no.6
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• pp.74-85
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• 2011

In modern fashion, accessories are recognized as indispensable articles for the completion of a look. Scarf and muffler has attained significance as a main fashion item. The purpose of study was to analyze the motifs of special material for muffler design on special material, and to seek unique and decorative effect using three dimensional method on the flat surfaced textile to give novelty. This study introduced technique of applying embroidery onto special materials such as fur and leather to achieve variety of texture effect. The results are as follows: Six designs were proposed. Each work has different detail and silhouette, and the unique motif design using embroidery with cotton, nylon, and bead on fur, leather, wool, and satin. This will be a method to develop value-added products in fashion and formative arts.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.20-30
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to examine the influence of European middle class, ethos to costume. This study is concerned with historic situation about enlightment and French revolution, and the change process of costume before and after the French Revolution. In order to investigate the relationship, this studies include the phenomenon of costume in the basis of thoughts of the age (enlightment), political event (French revolution) and social system (middle classes). The Influence of enlightment to costume of man and children were which emphasized practical aspect. Children costume was developed independently from costume of adult before French revolution. French revolution played a roll in silhouette, color, texture of costume for man. Especially pantalons which names Sans-culotte generalized as modern clothing for man. Women freed from corset because of the influence of neo-classicism for a while. However, costume of woman did not change much because women were excluded from of enlightment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.1 no.1
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• pp.53-70
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• 1997

The purpose of this thesis is to make clear particulartity of young adult generation which leads industry in their demands so that fashion trends are foresaw, and to describe style of costume satisfied with picture of new male. This thesis is to consider young adult style of costume in terms of double root described by W$\ddot{o}$lfflin in the internal meaning and the external form, so as to analyze their unique style. In conclusion, domestic young adult style of costume is embodied in the internal meanings of individuality, aestheticism and new classicism in terms of the external forms which means body-priority-form by open-form, whole-form, integration-form, rounded-form, indeterminate-form. With these results, domestic fashion industry is demanded to be from classic to modern expressions so as to be reflected in sophisticated masculinity of young adult.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.155-162
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• 2012

Design characteristics of the space depends on the type of design. This study organized gender perceptual characteristics from terminology that is used in the process of obtaining information about corresponding space intended to represent design types and the images which were selected by design experts. The results from the study are concluded as in the followings: First: in the Modern type, the males show "the somewhat high difference of the images" from formality and decoration. Also, the study shows that males perceive very high in "the very high difference of the images" from spatiality, formality, and decoration. Second: in case of modern and minimal types, females perceive the spatiality and the males perceive formality and decoration. This study shows that modern type contains a lot of adjective, which means the man overwhelmingly perceives than the woman perceives in the decoration of modern type. Third: while males in modern and minimal types perceive formality and decoration greatly, they perceive spatiality greatly in natural types. In contrast, females in modern and minimal types perceive spatiality greatly, but perceive decoration slightly larger in natural types. These results tell us that the gender can appear differently depending on which types. This study analyzed gender perception characteristics to the design types, which were selected by a group of design experts. The difference between the types of design occurs in the differences of space sense and image by gender. Through analyzing the differences of spatial types, it is clear that different genders perceive different characteristics.