• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.24
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• pp.121-142
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• 1995

The Expressionism took shape in the early twentieth century, so called as the time of change and innovation which intermediated between the time of extreme prosperity and peace and the time of disruption. This study is based on the wide sense of Expressionism out of various concepts of Expressionism. The afore-mentioned phenomenon was emphasized all the more in the French Expressionism and it is the most important and substantial object in the Art to make a direct transference of emotion , feeling and thought and it could be regarded as one of characteristics of the French Expressionism . In Addition, the Expressionism produced " Aesthetics on Ugliness "Aesthetics des H lichen )" in creating work of art. It was an expression of the Existentialism based on Humanism for modern people who lived at time of nihility and such artistic movement accepted polarity and ambivalance concepts claimed by Nietzsche into three specific fields in accordance with thought and technique in the work of art and those are the Intuitional Expressionism. Cubistic Expressionism and Fantastic Expressionism. This study makes a close analysis of costume style trends on the basis of the categorized Expressionism enumerated as above. The characteristics of Intuitional Expressionism is that poverty and a sense of alienation dominated all society and thus the social reality brought a trend of social participation . This social reality effected significantly modern costume style and a reformative costume turned up at last . This reformative costume was classified into Gar onne look, Military look and Lingerie look by characteristics of style in order to make a close examination for the relationship between social reality and the reformative structure. Cubistic Expressionism effected costume forming and changed costume style through " Deformation " and " Distortion" in forming technique , and also it has developed geometrical style of costume, which could be symbolized by mechanism. And on the other hand, this Cubistic Expressionism has emphasized exaggerated expression ability to produce rigid and stiff style of costume. Fantastic Expression pursued basic artistic worth from the primitive and ethnic customs and accepted fantastic oriental Exoticism . This Fantastic Expressionism effected costume style of twentieh century and such designers as Lon Bakst, Paul Poiret, Elsa Schiapareli adopted intentive primary color. It also applied " Depaysment" to modern costume style , which introduced avant-garde design to give an impact through destruction of the existing traditional concept. This study also analized seven major representative costume designers of the early twentieth century. They are L on Bakst, Paul Poiret, Madeline Vionnet, JeanPatou, Gabriel Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. These designers deployed creative costume design work with peculiar expression technique based on the French expressionism. The costume study related to art history was so far made mostly to approach costume forming but only a few study is found to have approached idealistic background of art history in connection with creating costume. From that point of view, it is profoundly significant for this study to analize idealistic background and characteristics of Expressionism and relationship between costume and expressionism and to examine modern costume of twntieth century in conjunction with technical characteristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.eristics and spiritual sense of Expresionism.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.2
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• pp.261-276
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• 2010

The analysis of an art trend in the principle dimension starts by observing the object of work in the perspective of formative composition and recognizing it as a universal system. It can be said that it is consistent with an interpretation method for a form theory of formal history by Heinrich W$\ddot{o}$lfflin, a leading form critic in art criticism. Hence, the purpose of this study was to find out what are the formative principles in Renaissance Classicism as a design principle to be applicable to modern fashion by reviewing the formative characteristics of Renaissance Classicism Architecture with which W$\ddot{o}$lfflin directly dealt. As for the theoretical literature review, I used W$\ddot{o}$lfflin's theoretical framework and looked at the Renaissance Classicism Architecture that he studied and examined the possibility of utilizing his theory as a layout principle and the characteristics. As for analysis of design cases, I applied the aforementioned architecture layout principle to modern fashion and conducted case study analysis to delve into distinctive layout principles found in fashion. The study showed that the Renaissance Classicism Architectural Style is marked by linearity, planarity, closing and multiple unity: linearity was expressed in the observation form in fixed frontal view and an emphasis on a tangible silhouette homeogenous and definite line structures; planarity was achieved in the form of paralleled layers of frontal view element, planarity style, and identical and proportional repetition of various sizes.; closing signified the pursuit of complete and clear regularity, and architecture developed in a constructive phase through organizational inevitability and absolute invariability.; multiple unity was expressed in self-completedness and independent parallel of discrete forms and harmony of emphasized individual elements in a totality. Applying these layout characteristics of the Renaissance Classicism Architectural style and to see their individual expressive features, I found out that in adopting layout principles of the Renaissance Classicism Architecture to modern fashion, it turned out to be an emphasis of individual silhouettes, a flattened space, completed objects, organic harmony among independent parts: the emphasis of individual silhouettes was expressed in individual definitiveness of formative lines of clothes in accordance with body joints and an emphasis on formative lines of clothes; the flattened space was marked by single layer structure, planarity of elements of clothes, and listing arrangement by appropriate proportion.; the completedness of the objects was expressed by the stationary state where overall image is fixed, the construction of homogeneous and complete space, and absolute inevitability of internal layout in proportion; lastly, organic harmony of independent parts was stressed in independent completedness of each detail, and organic harmony of the whole. The expressive features would lead to a unique expression style of linear emphasis, proportion, constructive forms, and two-dimensional arrangement. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.173-182
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• 2010

In this study, textile designs were developed by applying Norigae for motives, were digital-printed for it's eco-friendly, delicate and short printing time and as final products, necktie, bag and bedding was developed with them. The purposes of this study were to develop a unique textile design, and then to enhance the competitiveness of Korean textile industry in the world market and pass down a Korean traditional fiber art cultural legacy. The results are as follows Norigaes are a sort of Korean traditional ornaments worn on women's Korean traditional costume. These can vary in color, material, shape, composition and said to have very high artistic value from the standpoint of the modern view. And these are symbols of happiness and women's longing of Korean traditional society. So Norigaes are worthy of applying Korean traditional motive for modern textile design. The textile designs applied a Norigae in this study were estimated comparatively high.

• Korean Institute of Interior Design Journal
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• v.16 no.2 s.61
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• pp.278-286
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• 2007

Postmodernism, the theory and philosophy that swayed the world in the late 20th century, can be interpreted in various ways as a critical reaction against modernism as well as, in one way, the logical extension of modernism itself. Thus, an extensive understanding of the social and temporal background of the birth of postmodernism and a macroscopic and correlative approach toward the related artistic circles, especially art, were carried out before a formative discussion on the furniture design of postmodernism. Postmodemism in the field of furniture design shares the history of birth and spirit with Memphis, the progressive design group established by Ettore Sottsass in Milan, 1980. This study identifies the formative features of pestrnodernistic furniture design around those works that express the trend of postmodernism, in particular, chairs, as well as the designers who participated in the first Memphis exhibition at the Milan Furniture Fair. By identifying such features, the correlation between postmodemism and those features expressed in the works of postmodernism paintings were examined. The works of Anselm Kiefer, a German nee-expressionist who became famous through the Venice Biennale 1980, and five young Italian trans-avant garde authors were selected as the scope of this case study. The characteristics of postmodernism in modern art were analyzed in terms of themes, shape, and content and were derived as follows; Firstly, borrowed and past-oriented themes, secondly, deconstructive, atypical, plural, emotional, and intuitional shapes, and thirdly, basic, metaphorical, and abstract content, The formative characteristics of chair design in postmodemism furniture design are as follows; Firstly, deconstructive, symbolic, and abstract shapes, past-oriented, reactionary, and primitive colors and closing, as well as the characteristic of delivering commercial and metaphorical messages. The subjects and motives of art have been succeeded by the characteristics of color and closing in furniture, the shape and techniques of fine arts by the characteristics of furniture shape, and the content of art by that of furniture. They share key words and characteristics.

• Journal of architectural history
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.29-40
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• 2015

This study is on historiography of Modern Architecture since its beginning to present. As a critical review of the history of the writing history of Modern Architecture, this study tends to be a meta-history and criticism of historical text. This study try to analyse historiographical project of Modern architecture at specific phase since the beginning of modern architecture. The historiography of Modern architecture shows that writing a history is making a discourse of Modern architecture as a imaginative representation to define and justify Modernism in architecture. The analysis of canonic text since early 20th century proves that the history of writing history of Modern architecture played a critical role not only to shape of our ideal but the practice of architecture with a ideology construction in retrospect. With a name of truth or morality they made myths about the modernity in architecture. So we can find deep 'Hagelean Unconscious' in writing history of Modern architecture not even the first generation of historians but the second generation who were influenced by earlier writer in spite of their intention of revision and overcoming, which is in itself the key concept of Hegel's philosophy of History. Under this kind of 'operative' discourse our view point of Modern architecture were confined and the historiography of Modern architecture itself was narrowly defined as a kind of melodrama that a few architect and work of art matters. The rise of critical history fundamentally has changed the way of seeing and writing the history of Modern architecture. but it has also a new kind of dilemma as regard to writing history and involving practice. This review of historiography traces the texts of historians as like Pevsner, Giedion, Banham, Rowe, Tafuri, Frampton, and Curtis relating to different discours making. When we consider Benjamin's famous concept of constellation, writing history necessarily is a kind of montage making in time and we always need to recognize the historicity of historiography.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.120-135
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• 2010

Since emotion, creativity, and imagination has become the source of creating added value, the purpose of this study is to grasp the concept of high concept which has appeared as a major key word of modern culture and analyze the types of emotional expression found in modern fashion. Study methods were focused on literature review and case study. The literature review was conducted by news stories at home and abroad. The examples of case study were collected in fashion collection journals and related Internet web sites with their focus on from 2000 S/S to 2009 F/W to analyze emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion. The concept of 'high concept' suggested by Pink, Daniel H. lays on stress on ability to creative emotional value or cultural artistic value hidden behind the functional value, to make stories, and to combine ideas which do not seem to be connected with existing things. As a result of study, The forms of emotional expression found in high concept-reflected fashion included: art collaboration and art inspiration which were expressed through cross-category of culture and art; multi-culture design which expresses a mixture between western fashion and oriental costumes; funology design which expresses efficient value by high technology and fun value through humorous elements; and emotional digital design which can be transformed in function, shape and the use of materials representing light which is effectively used for fashion to represent fantasy or illusion connected with digital technology.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.116-131
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• 2010

As our world is becoming more and more globalized, nations tend to turn their interests towards their unique legacy and traditional culture. This research is intended to re-illuminate the Korean beauty through the Lotus Pattern, a traditional factor, from the Chosun Dynasty, and at the same time, analyze how its peculiar representation and figural elements can be reflected in modern fashion designs. The results will be an essential factor in creating exclusive and original designs. Research method was theoretical research from documents and to refer to positive data on preserved relics, and research contents consists of analysis on the use of lotus patterns in artworks that were exhibited during 2000 to 2008 by Korean and foreign artists. Results showed that lotus patterns that were used during the Chosun Dynasty are categorized by shape, composition form, and structural form. Applying these results, a total of 8 works were designed and created.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.1
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• pp.93-109
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• 1996

Madeleine Vionnet, a representative designer of the 1920′s, who made prefectly organized clothes with unique formativeness was the first to express fabric in a modern method and was called "The architect of fashion". This is because she developed a three dimensional design by expressing cloth-she rejected corset, should pad, etc-into elegant curved lines that do not stick to the body. By granting meaning to the beauty of the body and its movement in her own unique ways, she emphasized the formativeness in her work and gave shape to creative artistry. Expecially with the "Bias-Cut" she could express the lines of the body more flexibly and could make geometrical styles like the diamond shape dress or the triangle dress more effectively. Using the "Tired Bias cut" and "Handkerchief point" she let the skirt hemline dangle irregularly in geometrical forms, thus showing modern formative sense which forms a three dimensional solidness along the movement of the human body. Thus far, analyzed how the contemporary trend of art was reflected in her designs by studying her work; also investigated through her artistic characteristics and pattern method. Also be tried to find out what can be learned through her artistic view and superb formativeness as a designer.

• The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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• no.1
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• pp.109-144
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• 2003

Orientalness is a concept that expresses the collective identity of the Orient in relation to the West. The concept itself is mutable and defined by the relationship between the two regions at different points in time. Changes in the concept depend on a number of factors, such as cultural influence, the political balance of power between the two regions, and on the interpretative scheme that defines the relationship. In addition, the geographical notion of the concept evolves culturally, socially and politically. During this process, Oriental-ness becomes Oriental-ism at times. I will attempt to survey and measure the progression of Orientalness from its emergence in early 17th century to its subsequent transformation in modern Korea as reflected in art theory and art works. The recognition of the comparative characteristics of Oriental art began when the Orient was exposed to the art of the West in the late Ming dynasty during the early 17th century. The changes in the artistic climate in China affected the late Chosun. I will start with a brief introduction of this time and the birth of Orientalness. The concept gradually changed during the period of Enlightenment(開化期) towards the end of the 19th century, and during the colonial period( 1910-1945) it took on a new form. Establishment of the concept of "Orient"as a single, unifying concept spanning across cultures and national boundaries has been attributed to late Meiji period Japan, whose intention at that time is believed to have been to build a pan-Asia(亞細亞) empire with Japan at its commanding center. It has been stressed that the real motive behind the formation of one single cultural unit, where the shared common written language was Chinese and Confucianism and Taoism were the common metaphysical traditions, was to build one political unit. When the notion of a geographical unit of Asia was replaced by the concept of Asia as a cultural and political unit, a massive growth of interest and discourse were provoked around the concept of Orientalism. When Orientalism was being formulated, Korea automatically became member of "one Asia" when the country became colonized. For Koreans, the identity of the Orient had to be defined in cultural terms, as the political notion of a nation was non-existent at that time. The definition of identity was pursued at two levels, pan-Asian and local. If Orientalism was an elite discourse centered in pan-Asian philosophical and religious tradition, localized Orientalism was a popular discourse emphasizing locality as the byproduct of natural geographic condition. After the liberation in 1945 from colonial rule, a thrust of movement arose towards political nationalism. Two types of discourses on Orientalism, elite and popular, continued as central themes in art. Despite the effort to redefine the national identity by eradicating the cultural language of the colonial past, the past was enduring well into the present time. As discussed above, even when the painting themes were selected from Korean history, the tradition of using history painting as a manifestation of political policy to glorify the local identity had its founding during the Meiji period. The elevation of folk art to the level of high art also goes back to the colonial promotion of local color and local sentiment. Again, the succession of the past (colonial) ideal was defended as the tradition assumed a distinct modern shape that was abstract in style. The concept of the "Orient" is of relative and changing nature. It was formulated in relation to Western culture or civilization. Whatever the real motive of the adoption of them had been, the superiority of the Orient was emphasized at all times. The essence of the Orient was always perceived as the metaphysical tradition as a way to downgrade Western culture as materialistic. This view still prevails and the principle of Orient was always sought in Confucianism, Taoism, and Buddhism. Even when Orientalism was employed by imperialist Japan in an effort to establish her position as the center of the Orient, the spiritual source was still in Chinese philosophy and religion. In art also, the Chinese literati tradition became the major platform for elite discourse. Orientalism was also defined locally, and the so-called local color was pursued in terms of theme and style. Thus trend continued despite the effort to eradicate the remnants of colonial culture long after liberation. These efforts are now being supported politically and also institutionalized to become the aesthetic ideal of the modern Korean art.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Floral Art and Design
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• no.44
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• pp.101-121
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• 2021

The flower, a symbol of beauty representing beauty, exists as an aesthetic object throughout the history of mankind, and is one of the motifs most often used in plastic art. In this way, flower art is an art that embodies a form based on the theme of flowers. The flowers played a role in expressing human happiness and love by harmonizing beautifully with each other in shape and color. The flower pattern containing this symbolism is beautiful and excellent in decoration, and is applied not only to household goods, but also to art and fashion. The flower pattern is the most preferred pattern among patterns, and it is widely used regardless of the four seasons by changing the color according to the color and flowering time, and it is effective in stimulating the symbolism and psychological sense of humans, so it is used in design in various fields. In this study, the flower pattern, which is a symbol of beauty representing beauty and the motif of art, has been traditionally used in Korea, and is still loved in fashion and art even in modern times. We hoped to be active, and through this study, we tried to develop our own unique flower pattern and lay the groundwork for it to be commercialized.