• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.45-53
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• 2003

Rei Kawakubo is known for her provocative aesthetics: she often deliberately seeks beauty in what is seen by convention as taboo. With her highly informed and invariably provocative aesthetic, Rei Kawakubo has advanced historical forms of dress using radical functional and structural transpositions. She is considered as a pioneer showing firmly important elements of modern fashion design in her works by fashion journalists. In this paper, I'd like to analysis features of modern fashion design through Rei Kawakubo's works. I will analysis important elements of Rei Kawakuvo's design and devote study of the connection between the feature of her design and the feature of modern fashion design.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.34
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• pp.91-107
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• 1997

For the purpose of this study is the re-searcher investigated the concept and background of kitsch and the character of Kitsch in the paintings with focus on the Surrealism and Pop Art. In this study it was focused that how the shapes and materials was expressed in the modern fashion. Surrealism in paintings is lead thoughts and art movement to humanism of be-having man and pursuit of mental sub-stance of human beings expressing un-conscious word and transforming image in new way by the methods Automatism and Depaysements. Pop Art in paintings is used to objects common and cheap in the popular con-sumer's society. That is to say Pop Art sublimated con-sumptional culture of mass as art. And this phenomenon is appeared in the modern fashion which have influencedon the shapes and materials in design. Kitsch's character was researched in terms of shapes materials in the modern fashion with focus on the Surrealism and Pop Art and their aspect are summarized as follows: 1. In he aspect of shapes it appears that the shapes in the modern fashion is that of play through the method distor-tion or modification of dress. It was un-derstood that the cause of the dreaming and fantasy in the childhood. In the aspect of materials it apepears that the materials in the modern fashion is that of exagerated-decoration through using of object which is various asses-sories flower doll etc. 2. In the aspect of shapes it appears that the shapes in the modern fashion is that of disharmoney disorder and unsuit-ableness. The major cause of that is be-cause of Antistandard fashion I the aspect of materials it appears that the materials in the modern fashion is that of sarcasm pleasantness. It was reviwed that the major cause of the wit or humor comes from the image of the masses makes use of such as plastic fun-ny picture can coin etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.981-991
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• 2003

The purpose of this study is to observe the cultural phenomenon in modern society from the point of view of pastiche, analyze the characteristics of pastiche, create a framework for studying modem fashion and body ornamentation, one of the facts of cultural phenomenon and, based on these aspects, will observe the pastiche phase, which occurred in body ornamentation of modem fashion in the late 1990's Collections. The characteristics of pastiche is that it transcends meaning, alters the usage of objects, raises the beauty of alienation and pursues temporariness. Observing pastiche, according to its definition and characteristics, as it appears in body ornamentation of modem fashion, the results were as follows: First of all, in terms of transcending meaning, body ornamentation of modern fashion is a mixture of all past styles. Secondly, use of objects in body ornamentation of fashion has shown the use of things which have never been used in accessorizing before, such as birdcages, bones of body, castle. Third, in terms of the raising of the beauty of alienation, accessories from countries, which were not high interest groups in the past, such as piercing, scar, corpulent, are being used as high-fashion accessories in body ornamentation of modern fashion. Fourth, in terms of the pursuit of temporariness, external ornamentation in body ornamentation of modern fashion is seen as permanent changes to the outer body, such as tattoos, piercings, hair color and the more temporary changes, such as coloring.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.6
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• pp.63-79
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• 2012

Modern art is getting more comprehensive and diversified regardless of genre in many forms due to the pluralism and anti-aesthetic trend of the time which is impacted by post modernism. This atmosphere is also applied to fashion illustration which creates synergy effect in cooperation with many different genres. This study selected Matisse' paper cut-out as the subject which would reflect the minimalism and ionism of modern plasticity. By taking this as the motive for fashion illustration, I made seven illustration works with the subject of minimalism of form and color. The conclusion of this study is as following. First, Matisse's paper cut out has controlled plasticity related to the modern ionism and it well fits the modern trend and sensibility which is appropriate for motive of fashion illustration. Second, by upgrading the technique of Matisse' paper cut-out in a modern way such as combination of hand drawing and computer graphic using Photoshop, I was able to make originative and creative illustration works with background and patterns that were closely connected with each other. Third, applying the fashion illustration to other various products is being well received now and I made my illustrations that could lead to follow up studies to apply the fashion illustration to other different products. Matisse' paper cut-our has forms, colors and patterns that can contain both commercial and artistic value. Therefore it is quite feasible for follow up research to apply into many different areas.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.749-759
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• 2007

As the traditional style is treated as one of the important themes in fashion recently, how to apply the formative character in Korean and Japanese traditional dress to modern fashion is searched through actual analysis of photograph material, Both design formative elements were confirmed by clothing and fashion department majors through visual data so that 20 pieces of them were selected as final analysis object. Korean traditional dress form in modern fashion emphasizes curvaceousness as plane division. On the other hand, that of Japanese shows straight line, layered, belt, big look through up & down connection style. Color in Korean traditional dress prefers white and original color and modern fashion displays the natural beauty through harmony of similar colors ; that of Japanese based on natural color such as persimmon color cherishes natural beauty and implicit moderation showing harmony of various original color with brilliance and neutral color. While texture in Korean traditional dress was fine and exquisite, that of Japanese preferred coarse and tactile ones. In motif, Korea was natural and geometric but Japanese variously used complex and geometric ones. Likewise, the result suggests that the formative character in Korean and Japanese modern fashion affects the modern dress format as new aesthetic sense and takes on more complicated and subtle aspect in basic form, not just use so far.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.111-121
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• 2004

The Mevelana sect is a spiritual Islamic group experiencing spiritual transaction with their god through a peculiar dancing as a form of religious ritual. The Mevelana, a sect of Islamic Sufism, has their head mosque in Konya in Turkey. Although Mevelana sect is regarded as heretic of Islam, it has exerted considerable influence on the Islamic religion through its peculiar religious worshiping form constituted in dancing and reciting poems. Nowadays, Turkey recognizes the Mevelana dancing as their precious cultural legacy of a long history, exerting public information efforts to give it for wider publicity of Turkey to the world. The Mevelana dress with ornament attired for the ritual dancing performance is regarded to symbolize a spiritual medium, which leads to conciliation with the eternity. The straight lines and curved line characteristic of the Mevelana dancer's trousers, skirt, jacket and such mirrors the image of the Orientals, which is in peculiar contrast with the white and gray colors of the dress with ornament. The impression of the spiritual Mevelana dressing in harmony with the dynamic dancing motion goes beyond mere a religious dressing. It is expressive of a graceful and sophisticated modern formative art, of which the mystic design gives an inspiration to the modern fashion. After Poiret, Islamic factors have emerged in the modern fashion. For instance, a hat with Arabic fashion lapel, a Fez hat of Turkish style, harem pants and such are still popular in the modern fashion. It seems probable that the Iraq War would far more activate the influence of Arabic culture to the modern fashion. By making an analysis on the religious background and formative characteristics of the Mevelana dressing, and by giving design examples on how the Mevelanan dressing has been applied to the modern fashion, this research suggests working out new designs by making a renewed application of their characteristics to the modern fashion.

• Journal of Digital Convergence
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• v.20 no.4
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• pp.499-512
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• 2022

The purpose of this study was to first look at genderless concepts that are different from Unix, and by grasping the trend of genderless clothes in modern fashion and examining their characteristics, we looked at genderless trends and characteristics in modern fashion. To this end, this study conducted a theoretical review and collection case analysis through domestic and foreign literature and fashion websites. Based on this, the characteristics of genderless clothes expressed in the collection were derived by analyzing designs with strong genderless tendencies in modern collections. As a result of the study, genderless fashion in modern collections could be derived from three visible results: innovation, rebellion, and future-oriented. In addition, modern genderless fashion contains various needs for mental gender and physiological gender, not simply physiological gender, and this is seen by interacting with the current social phenomenon in which gender distinction becomes ambiguous. Understanding and studying the genderless phenomenon, which has become a cultural phenomenon and popularity, hopes that many follow-up studies related to genderless clothes will be conducted in the future.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.38 no.5
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• pp.611-626
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• 2014

Reading and foreseeing fashion trends is crucial and difficult in the fashion industry due to accelerated and diversified changes in fashion trends. We use network analysis to investigate fashion trends from 2004 to 2013 in order to find the inter-relevance among fashion trends. We extracted words from fashion trend info for women's wear provided by Samsung Design Net, created a 2-mode network of seasons and trend languages, and visualized this network using NodeXl program. Fashion trends repeated a unique pattern during the period. In the first half (2004-2008), retro modern, feminine modern, and ecological modern were dominant trends in consecutive order. The years 2009-2013 witnessed distinctive fashion trends in S/S seasons and in F/W seasons. 11F/W, 12F/W and 13F/W seasons were characterized by artistic creative style. From 2010, natural style dominated S/S seasons. 10S/S and 12S/S seasons were distinguished as a calm natural style that reflected a peaceful and simple life. In 11S/S and 13S/S seasons, soft natural style emerged as a sign of increased importance of inner spirit and natural energy. A seasonal reappearance of trends was observed every two years in S/S seasons that enabled the prediction that 14S/S will see another version of natural style. A macroscopic trend for the last 10 years was represented by the keywords 'modern' and 'natural'. 'Modern' involved the past styles such as 60's, Baroque and the origin of human life. 'Natural' was connected with design elements such as material, silhouette and color. Managerial implications and future study directions are discussed based on the results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.129-143
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• 2001

The purpose of this study is to pigeonhole theoretical notions of asymmetry and historical flow of asymmetry designed dresses, understand the trend of asymmetry design in modern fashion and find out its plastic character. The result of this study is as follows. The asymmetry is un-harmony artistic structure that unbalanced left and right in designing. The asymmetry fashion were seen that drapery dress of Egypt, Greece, Rome in ancient times and design by strong color contrast in heraldry and hose, accessory in the middle ages. In modern times, it was seen as complicated and mixed appearance by the influence of post-modernism. The asymmetry designs in modern fashion are shown varied styles by asymmetry of silhouette, detail, fabric, wearing method. The characters of these are a sense of de-construction, formative sense, and exaggeration The asymmetry design must be made by cutting, sewing, and high degree of technique through the latest skill and study.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.327-337
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• 1999

Primitive men's primordial formative activity derives from incarnation contained in intensive vitality and strong creativity mind. The trend of modern fashion requiring the boundless imagination can be called that it, just, itself, has something in common with basic spiritual activity that primitive men had. What is concerning how modern fashion designers have developed formative language through enchanting primitive art is as follows. 1. The nature's mysterious power appears to be transformed into personified image. The incarnation for acquiring beauty, power, prestige of genius appears in the form of personification, making use of mask in modern fashion. 2. As for primitive men, the whole universe has a potentiality as a symbol. The symbolism of primitive art based on religion and myth appears in modern art as the form of presenting oppositional objects together in one space. 3. Primitive art is the purest form and the most unpolluted. This shows the natural quality being assimilated into nature, which is expressed in modern fashion as intensity, free-spirit, simplicity, etc. 4. The primitive men's anxiety to the outside world appears as impulse. The geometrical form of primitive art occurred in the shape of impulse appears in expressional form of modern fashion. 5. The real existence in primitive art inducing real materials and objects, in themselves, into formative world appears in modern art in the way of expression such as repetition, enlargement, exact reproduction.