• 한국의류학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.507-518
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• 2006

This study aims to prove that traditional patchwork wrapping cloth can be a creative motive for modem fashion, and the application of it can be a way of expressing not only the pride in our cultural heritage but also the originality of fashion design. The analysis of the plasticity of 108 patchwork wrapping clothes has come up with the following findings: Firstly, the plane structure consists of 41 basic forms and 67 applied ones. Secondly, 61 contrast color harmony and 47 similarity color harmony. Thirdly, the fabric consists of 88 silk clothes, 19 ramie clothes, and 1 silk and ramie cloth. Fourthly, 47 unlined clothes and 61 lined ones. The study also expresses the analyzed plasticity of patchwork wrapping cloth for fashion with the following findings: Firstly, basic plane structures, contrast color harmony, silk cloth and the press flower coating technique become one piece dress to express splendid and elegant image. Secondly, application plane structures, similarity color harmony of natural dyeing method using persimmon, ramie cloth and the press flower coating and over lock technique become a jacket and a blouse to express calm and dynamic image. Thirdly, the needling and over lock technique used to patch clothes has become a desirable way to express fabric with unique surface effects. Fourthly, the press flower coating which modernizes embroidery in patchwork wrapping. cloth has become a new technique which can create high values with its extended the visual effects of the material. Fifthly, Patchwork wrapping cloth in Chosun Dynasty has now become a motive for modem fashion design to express tradition and creation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.77-87
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• 2008

Modern fashion industry creates complex and multiple fashion by amalgamating and mixing all elements that emerged in fashion without limiting them to a specific genre. The results of study are as follows: First, with regard to the conceptual differences among poor look, anti-fashion, and resistance fashion and the background. second, As aesthetic categories of poor beauty, its image with the feeling of poorness, beggar-likeness, worthlessness, poorness, and uncleanness is divided into the beauty of moderation, deconstruction, unfinished beauty, natural beauty, and ostentatious poor beauty based on the formative characteristics and poor look. Third, Oriental and Western poor images are comparatively analyzed. The poor beauty found in Oriental fashion, which is based on Zen aesthetics, seeks loneliness, poorness, and simplicity as an empty origin and features internal meaning that expresses the purity of poor beauty itself and external form that is visualized through no decoration, no color, and asymmetry in material and composition. The poor beauty in the West features non-form of no shape, asymmetry and disharmony and the characteristic in its contents is "distortion", and the characteristic in its expression features external form of "incorrectness" and internal meaning implying modem humans' frustration, resistance to materialism, and skepticism about mechanicalism.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.12-27
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• 2004

The Tuck, an important component of modem clothing design, was analyzed through various sources of literature comprised chiefly of domestic and imported fashion magazines from 2000 to 2003. The results were as follows: 1) The Tuck was organized in horizontal, perpendicular, oblique and radial directions. Application methods included repetition, gradation, radial arrangement, sequence and alternation of individual lines. 2) The Tuck was found in a variety of forms and uses. But due to structural characteristics, its function is more psychological and aesthetic than functional. The aesthetic properties of the Tuck included rhythm, optical illusion, abstraction, and material. The structural property of the Tuck occasionally substituted bust or waist darts. 3) The individuality and originality of the Tuck was used in unpredictable ways to give spatial ornamentality and emphasis on material. This enabled aesthetically unique designs to arise. To summarize, the Tuck, a component of clothing design as a formative art, was used in a variety of methods towards developing creative clothing design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권7호
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• pp.1003-1013
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• 2009

This study offers data that can be used to direct the styles of black dresses by looking into the characteristics of coordination in black fashion, which is continuously appearing at modem. fashion collections with a unique aesthetic value and image. This study examined the characteristic of fashion coordination of black color: First, to look at the fashion image of black color, second, to look at the characteristic of black color coordination appearing in black fashion, and third, to look at the method of coordination appearing in black color. This study collected and selected 560 black pictures that showed the fashion collections from 2005 S/S until 2007 F/W. As for data analysis, the researcher made a content analysis by classifying the pictures by item, material, accessory, and a coordination method. The research results are as follows: First, the fashion image of black color was expressed as sexy feminine, modern chic, modern future, genderless, and avant-garde images. Second, the fashion coordination of black color has the characteristics of sexiness and dignity by the use of body exposure, concealment, and a subdued line that expresses a modern, minimal atmosphere. The mix & match of materials expressed the monotony of one color as refined beauty and the use of accessories appeared to bring the image into relief. Third, as for the coordination method, pants on skirts, pants on dresses, piece coordination of code matching, plus- one coordination through vivid colors and accessories, and cross-over coordination relying on shape, material, and sense were prominent.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권7호
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• pp.926-937
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• 2005

The analysis category of Art to Wear was text analyzed from the research material of 100 projects put together by fashion specialist. The conclusion of Art to Wear was comprehended the general features of it were compared and analyzed from a semiotics context. According to this analysis, the formative features of modern Art to Wear is categorized into three different dimensions from a semiotics light. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of syntactic dimension was divided as an open constructed shape of Space Extension, non-typical Deformation, Geometrical Plasticity. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of semantic dimension express symbolic meaning through metaphorical sign. These sign reflect the body image of the life and death and its objective of Abjection, Hybrid of discultural appearance and the image of Hyper-reality, which are features used to comprehend the inner meaning. The formative features of modem Art to Wear in the light of pragmatic dimension divided the artist emotion and meaning system delivered by Emotive Image, the Phatic Image that arouse inner signification and the Poetic Image which contain artistic and aesthetic meaning within it.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권9호
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• pp.1308-1319
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• 2002

The purpose of this is to analyze the aesthetics characteristics of our modern sports fashion, and thereby, discuss them in the light of the overall mentality or the 20th century, and thus, present the conditions or sports fashion design meeting modem people's divers aesthetics values and desired. Modern sports fashion sues can be categorized into futurist sports style, erotic sports style and American sheet sports style. And the 20th century mentality characterized by changes of lifestyle, identity and aspiration has influenced the aesthetic features of such sports fashion sues, which can be summed up as follows; first, the futurist sports style applies the functional items and details of active sportswear to design, while heralding a positive and hopeful message of technology and future by using the material of hi-tech functions and senses. This sports style was affected much by shift from social status, attraction and wealth to demonstration of state-of-the-art science, pursuit of functionality in terms of shapes and materials, convenience through See combinations of sportswear items or design elements. Second, the erotic sports style based on minimalism attempted to express the erotic body beauty indirectly by exposing some parts of body or using the material pressed against the body. This sports style was closely related with the changes of sexual identity such as neutral sexualism, bi-sexualism and homo-sexualism. Lastly, the American street sports style was born from black Americarns' sports and dances. This spors style pursues “youth” beyond TPO concept As mass media and commercial sports developed, the young generation copied sports stars' uniforms or fashions to share honor, wealth and youth with them. In sort, the American sheet sports style was affected much by the so-called “heroism”. Such a changed object of aspiration influenced the aesthetic characteristics of American shot sports style directly.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제33권11호
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• pp.1733-1743
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• 2009

The LOHAS trend is based on a present and future culture with a sustainable influence on the life of modem humans. This study examines the LOHAS trend to create a design that is practical and reflects a notion of LOHAS in quality. Design making is selected with three sub-themes under the concept 'With Us, Nature & High Touch' and the dress design that is suitable to the type and purpose of the parties following the concept. Theme A, "Neo-Classicism" is for a reception party. It made efficient use of 'Type of environmentally friendly material practical use + Type of multi-function design + Type of order production + Type of society morals design'. Theme B, "Between Virtual & Reality" is for a wedding reception. It made efficient use of 'Type of environmentally friendly material practical use + Type of multifunction design + Type of retrenchment design + Type of order production + Type of society morals design'. Theme C, "Arty Illusion" is for a cocktail party. It made efficient use of 'Type of Re-design + Type of nature motive practical use + Type of the higher sensitivity pursuit design + Type of order production + Type of society morals design'. This study explained that nature, environment, and a sense about society are put to practical use in fashion design through the creation of a fashion design to apply a LOHAS fashion design notion and a special quality.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.103-122
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• 2007

Fashion have been expressed by a face through various a period, social change, and various culture changing. Human expresses as "Transformation" by applying these needs of changing to the fashion. A origin tribe expressed its own self by using direct body transformation and extreme decorations in the past. However, human express creative and esthetic desire based on shape, material, and transformation method in the present time characteristics of the body. Exceptional transformation breaking a existing fixed idea appeared frequently due to dissolution through transformation which is positive expression method in the fashion from 20th century. As a results, followings are obtained in this study. First, human body transforms by using a tool or intermediation in investigation of aesthetic meaning for human body. The object, Transformation, is stably transformed by disintegration, distortion, exaggeration and simplification reduction, as design's sensitivity. Second, transformation from relation of clothing composition is expressed by extension, reduction, simplification, and dissolution. In transformation from original tribe's sensitivity, past decorative desire lead to transformation of human body. To give variable change from past to present fashion, external formative will is introduced. Then, extreme expression is made by direct transformation of clothing type. It seems to be accomplished that human body's expression method is continuously changed into extension, exaggeration, reduction, and dissolution from transformation method as described before. Transformation of modem fashion is expression method by creative supervision. Extreme transformation substituted body's each part is based on immanent play and representative satisfaction. Through these transformation, it is judged that variety of creative type is achieved.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2010

Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.123-134
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• 2012

As a mirror of its time, fashion exactly reflects the trend of today' s society. In addition, as a tool to satisfy our desire and express images, it brings diverse image changes in people's minds. This kind of pattern is frequently found in wedding images, especially in wedding dresses. When it comes to a wedding dress, in general, we often think of a modest and pure-white one. In modem times, however, people prefer a differentiated image which reflects their personality and ego. In other words, it is an important means of expressing their own personality by focusing on their active and personal aspects and getting away from the passive, stable and formative aspects in the past. These days, a combination of narcissism and eroticism is found on wedding dresses. This kind of trend has been expressed into romanticism. In terms of the latest sensitive wedding dress trend, unique and creative couture wedding dresses have appeared. Therefore, this study has classified this kind of trend into two categories; Formative and Design aspects. According to an analysis on the formative and design aspects of romanticism in wedding dresses, diverse characteristics were observed in shape, color, material and ornament in the Formative Aspect. In terms of design, the characteristics of sensuality, ornament, exoticism and compromise were observed.