• Acta Via Serica
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.25-49
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• 2020

This essay, based on an oral presentation, provides the non-specialist, with an evaluation of the Mongols' influence and China and, to a lesser extent, on Russia and the Middle East. Starting in the 1980s, specialists challenged the conventional wisdom about the Mongol Empire's almost entirely destructive influence on global history. They asserted that Mongols promoted vital economic, social, and cultural exchanges among civilizations. Chinggis Khan, Khubilai Khan, and other rulers supported trade, adopted policies of toleration toward foreign religions, and served as patrons of the arts, architecture, and the theater. Eurasian history starts with the Mongols. Exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Los Angeles County Museum of Art confirmed that the Mongol era witnessed extraordinary developments in painting, ceramics, manuscript illustration, and textiles. To be sure, specialists did not ignore the destruction and killings that the Mongols engendered. This reevaluation has prompted both sophisticated analyses of the Mongols' legacy in Eurasian history. The Ming dynasty, the Mongols' successor in China, adopted some of the principles of Mongol military organization and tactics and were exposed to Tibetan Buddhism and Persian astronomy and medicine. The Mongols introduced agricultural techniques, porcelain, and artistic motifs to the Middle East, and supported the writing of histories. They also promoted Sufism in the Islamic world and influenced Russian government, trade, and art, among other impacts. Europeans became aware, via Marco Polo who traveled through the Mongols' domains, of Asian products, as well as technological, scientific, and philosophical innovations in the East and were motivated to find sea routes to South and East Asia.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제2권3호
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• pp.121-136
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• 1998

The purpose of this study was to present a new research method of stage costume by designing and making the stage costume of Yean-GaeSoMoon(淵蓋蘇文) in Peking Opera Du Mu Guan (Korean; Dog Mog Guan, 獨木關). The stage costume of Peking Opera was formed on the basis of the Chinese traditional stage costume in the Qing period, however the style of stage costume was beautified the costume of Ming period and here contained the factors of successive costumes. But the stage costume of Peking Opera didn't have the same rank system with real history costume and didn't have demarcation according to period and history. In the stage costume of Peking Opera, the color is cultural language that can inform spectators of sex, age, personality, position of characters. The pattern of decoration also symboled the personality and characteristic of the character. Yean-GaeSoMoon in the play wore green armour (Chinese; ru ying kao 綠硬靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), red mustache (Chinese; hong ran kou 紅髥口), crown (Chinese; da e zi 大額子), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴) and Xue RenGui wore white armour (Chinese; baikao 白靠), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲), shoes (Chinese; hou di xue 厚底靴), hat (Chinese; za jin 扎巾). By historical materials, Yean-GaeSoMoon was a nationalist who uphold national sprit and the greatest hero of the age and a charismatic politician who combines literatural arts with military arts. Considering these reviews, defined the thema of his new costumes' image as "the flying bird which has three legs"(三足鳥), the bird which symbolized the sun and immortality in Koguryo fresco. On the basis of this image, presented three types of Yean-GaeSoMoon's stage costume. Yean-GaeSoMoon as the minister in the court wore black gown (Chinese; mang pao 蟒袍) of dargon pattern which symbolizes harisma who opening the heaven. He as the general who directs war wore red mantle (Chinese; dou peng 斗蓬) which symbolizes the blue dragon that soaring into the sky, as the officer who fights the enemy's general wore green armour (Chinese; gai liang jia 改良甲), red pants (Chinese; hong ku 紅褲) which symbolizes the flying Sward that blowing violently. By wearing these stage costumes, the image of Yean-GaeSoMoon could changed from the fierce general of minority race who likes to fight, to the Koguryo general who fights against enemy at the risk of his life for Koguryo's autonomy. Through this study once again we could realized that stage costume played very mportant part In outstnding the characteristic of actor in the Peking Opera.

• 감성과학
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.71-82
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• 2016

시대가 급속히 변화함에 따라 남성의 라이프 스타일, 개성, 가치관 등이 다양하며 과거에 비해 남성복에 대한 기호도 변하였을 뿐만 아니라 또 남성복 시장이 증대되었고 전에 없던 새로운 스타일이 많이 등장하였으나 활발한 여성복 감성 연구와 달리 남성복의 스타일에 따른 감성 연구는 미비한 실정이다. 이에 20대 남성들이 주로 착용하는 스타일을 7가지 대표 자극물로 선정하고 자극물로 제시하여 각 스타일에 대한 소비자의 감성을 조사하였다. 스타일 1 (정장), 스타일 2 (라이더재킷+스키니 팬츠), 스타일 3 (블루종+스트레이트 팬츠), 스타일 4 (박시한 가디건+하프 팬츠), 스타일 5 (야전상의+스트레이트 팬츠), 스타일 6 (루즈핏 재킷+스키니 팬츠), 스타일 7 (야구점퍼+스트레이트 팬츠) 등 남성복 스타일에 따른 감성의 차이를 조사하였으며 성별에 따른 남성복에 대한 관심과 지식정도 차이를 비교하였고 남성복의 선호와 실제착용 간에 차이가 있는지 분석하였고 라이프 스타일 유형에 따른 선호하는 스타일을 측정하였다. 그 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 남성복은 다양하고 세분화되었고 남성복에 대한 관심과 지식은 남성이 여성보다 높게 나타났다. 둘째, 남성복에 대한 감성은 스타일에 따라 유의한 차이가 있었지만 이는 성별에 따라 다르지 않았다. 셋째, 20대가 가장 선호하는 선호스타일과 실제로 즐겨 입는 착장스타일 간에는 차이가 존재하였는데, 일치하는 비율은 66.1% 이었고, 불일치하는 경우는 33.9% 이였다. 선호도와 실제 착용도가 가장 높은 것은 스타일 3 이었으며, 가장 선호되지 않고 착용되지 않는 것은 스타일 5 이었다. 넷째, 내향적보다 외향적 라이프 스타일을 지닐수록 더 다양한 스타일에 대하여 선호도를 나타내었다.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.46-66
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• 2016

This thesis aims to analyze the costume changes according to the ideological transition through the portraits of Napoleon Bonaparte. This study selected 32 color pictures of Napoleon, which was taken during his time as a general to his ascension as Emperor (1785-1815). The study qualitatively analyzed the traits and costume elements in view of the items, color and ornaments of the costume, while studying the effects of the ideological transition. The costumes of Napoleon were categorized into three parts: general, governor and Emperor. Firstly, Napoleon most frequently wore the navy uniforms when taking the portraits as a general. The uniform gave Napoleon the image of strength, youth and intelligence, which reflected the ideology of enlightenment. Secondly, the red-colored administrator uniform, combined with a military coat with culotte, was worn to make the governor look intelligent, which would ascribe to the ideological demand of the enlightenment. Lastly, his portraits as emperor showed him in long white tunica, combined with red-colored coronation cape ornamented with embroidery, ermine fur, and the crown of laurel. This costume denoted both the enlightenment and also the neoclassical trend aspiring for the return to the Greek and Roman era. In this way, the portrait of Napoleon might be expected to reflect the periodical change of the ideology through describing the transition of the costumes. It might be evident that his image of the strong general changed to that of an intelligent governor, which was in demand when the enlightenment idea became popular. When Napoleon became the emperor, his image changed into that of a Roman emperor, which implies that neoclassical ideas were used as source of influence.

• 복식
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• 제57권6호
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.14-30
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to establish how main characters' mental states are expressed through costumes and makeup by understanding and analyzing the relationship between the costumes and the makeup in the movie "Anna Karenina" and to compare the 19th century Russian costumes. The study methods are a literature review and an empirical case study. The results are as follows. First, the costumes in "Anna Karenina" are a mixture of late crinoline and early bustle style in general. However, the costumes were altered after the actress's movements and acting were considered. Regarding colors, Anna wears a lavender robe as the virtuous wife, a wine-colored robe for love and death, and a white robe for innocence, thus reflecting her mental states; through the colors, her changes of mental state are expressed. Second, the costumes of Alexei Vronsky, are similar in style and colors to those of mid-late 19th century Russian military uniforms. White, blue and black costume colors are used to describe his situations and emotional changes. Third, Alexei Karenin wears 19th century costumes of dark and achromatic colors without decorations, representing his conservative, authoritative character. However, he showshis rage with a wine and red-colored costume at the end of the movie. Fourth, regarding the makeup in the movie, Anna wears makeup of a soft pink-gold color influenced by 19th century naturalism. Male characters express their characteristics with their beards and hair styles. Vronsky's Hollywood mustaches and wavy blonde hair show his charm, and Karenin's chin curtain beard and bald head reveal his conservative character. The costumes of the three main characters in the movie are not very different from 19th century style in general, but mental states and situations are expressed through accessories, and colors maximize all of the effects. Through this research, it is illustrated that the costumes and makeup in a movie can not only express characters' emotional changes but also show the relationships between the characters in different scenes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제30권1호
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• pp.88-101
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• 2022

Molybdenum is used in electrical contacts, industrial motors, and transportation materials due to its remarkable ability to resist heat and corrosion. It is also used to flame coat other metals. This study investigated, the thermal characteristics of the molybdenum sputtered material, such as electrical conductivity, and stealth effects on infrared thermal imaging cameras. To this end, molybdenum sputtered samples were prepared by varying the density of the base sample and the type of base materials used. Thereafter, the produced samples were evaluated for their surface state, electrical conductivity, electromagnetic field characteristics, thermal characteristics, stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras, and moisture characteristics. As a result of infrared thermal imaging, the molybdenum layer was directed towards the outside air, and when the sample was a film, it demonstrated a greater stealth effect than the fabric. When the molybdenum layer was directed to the outside air, all of the molybdenum sputtering-treated samples exhibited a lower surface temperature than the "untreated sample." In addition, as a result of confirming electrical properties following the molybdenum sputtering treatment, it was determined that the film exhibited better electrical conductivity than the fabric. All samples that were subjected to molybdenum sputtering exhibited significantly reduced electromagnetic and IR transmission. As a result, the stealth effect on infrared thermal imaging cameras is considered to be a better way of interpreting heat transfer than infrared transmission. These results are expected to have future applications in high-performance smartwear, military uniforms, and medical wear.

• 박물관보존과학
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• 제20권
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• pp.61-76
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• 2018

국립중앙박물관 소장 피갑 유물의 전시와 안전한 보호를 위한 보존처리를 진행하기에 앞서 갑옷의 특징과 종류를 파악하여 안전하고 정확한 보존처리의 기초자료를 위해 이론적 연구를 실시하였다. 연구 결과 첫째, 갑옷의 명칭은 색, 재료, 신분, 갑옷의 부위까지 함께 나열하여 세부적인 특징의 차이에 따라 기록하였다. 명칭을 표기하는 순서는 대부분 색상과 직물, 다음으로 철이나 가죽 등의 재료가 나열되며, 앞부분은 의(衣), 뒷부분은 갑찰의 재료, 또는 신분만으로 명칭을 기록하였다. 둘째, 갑옷에 사용된 재료는 직물, 가죽, 금속이며, 철갑(鐵甲), 피갑(皮甲), 지갑(紙甲), 엄심갑(淹心甲), 단갑(緞甲)등으로 분류할 수 있다. 셋째, 갑옷의 구조와 착장방법에 따라 크게 4가지의 유형으로 나뉘며 국립중앙박물관 소장 피갑 4점은 그 중 임진왜란 이후부터 19세기 말, 20세기 초까지 입혀진 보편적 양식인 포형(袍型) 갑옷 양식에 포함되며 보군(步軍)이 착용하였던 갑옷임을 확인할 수 있다.

• 한국농림기상학회지
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• 제3권3호
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• pp.135-142
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• 2001

이 연구는 강원도 지역의 시계열 기상자료와 산불발생현황자료를 이용하여 시ㆍ군별 산불발생유형을 구분하고자 지역간 기상요인과 발생원인 그리고 산불발생 일을 근거로 한 지역별 유형화 구분을 목적으로 시도되었다. 기상요인에 의한 산불발생 유형화에서는 최근 6년간의 강원도 소재 기상대의 기상자료를 적용하였으며, 지역과 산불발생원인과의 관련성 규명과 산불발생일의 불일치계수를 이용한 수량화된 다차원척도법 유형화에서는 최근 10년간의 산불발생현황자료를 적용하였다. 연구결과를 요약하면 다음과 같다. 첫째, 강원도 동해안산불과 같은 대형산불에 관련되는 기상요인으로는 평균온도, 최저온도, 최저초상온도, 평균풍속, 최대풍속 등으로 규명되었다. 둘째, 산불발생원인과 지역간의 관계를 도식화한 대응일치분석 결과에서는 지역과 산불발생원인과의 관계에서 가장 확연히 구분되는 지역으로는 '강릉'의 경우로 '방화'와 깊은 관련이 있는 것으로 나타났으며, '삼척'은 '입산자실화'와 '철원', '화천', '양구'지역은 군사훈련과 관계하는 것으로 보여지며, '속초'와 '춘천'의 경우에는 '쓰레기 소각'과 '담뱃불'이 타지역보다 밀접한 관련성이 있는 것으로 나타났다. 마지막으로 산화발생일을 근거로 각 시ㆍ군의 산불발생 유사성 정도 및 유형화 구분을 위한 다차원척도법 적용결과에서는 강원도 18개 시ㆍ군 지역이 5개의 유형으로 분류되었는데, 유형 I로 구분된 지역으로는 삼척, 강릉, 춘천, 원주, 홍천, 횡성으로 나타났으며, 유형 Ⅱ는 동해, 태백, 양양, 평창지역, 유형 Ⅲ은 정선, 철원, 화천지역, 유형 Ⅵ는 고성, 인제, 양구지역이, 그리고 마지막으로 유형 V는 속초와 영월지역으로 구분되었다. 지금까지의 도출된 연구결과들은 산불현황자료와 기상자료를 기초로 하여 도출된 결과를 근거로 제시하였고, 지역별 산불발생 특성을 보다 체계적으로 구분하기 위하여는 이외에도 지역별 임상요인과 지형 및 사회적 요인에 대한 검토들이 병행되어야 할 것으로 판단된다.의 경쟁이 생장에 영향을 미치는 것이 사실이다. 따라서 앞으로의 연구에서는 지형, 토양, 미기후 조건, 그리고 임목 간의 경쟁관계가 종합적으로 고려된 환경요인에 의한 생장특성을 파악하는 연구가 필요하다. 아울러 본 연구에서와 같이 지형기후학적 방법에 의하여 추정된 미기후를 통하여 보다 정확한 결과를 얻기 위해서는 무인자동기상관측 망의 설치를 통하여 이를 검증하는 작업이 필요하다.deling of self-similar traffic.ti colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.Standards for Livestock Products of Korea". The measured mean concentrations of Ca, Fe, Zn were generally higher than lower limit of labeled value(above 80% of labeled value). The mean concentration of sodium was lower than upper limit of labeled value(below 120％ of labeled value).