• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.54 no.2
• /
• pp.121-133
• /
• 2004

This study is about japanese national suit. women's standard dress, and mompe, which were used as a means of controlling people's life and simplifying people's clothing during the chinese-japanese war(1937) and the pacific war(1941-1945). National suit was a semi-military uniform for men and it was the western style suit composed of jacket, under shirt, and pants. National suit was not popular during the early war, but it became popular afterward. Women's standard dress had the two kinds of styles : the kimono and the western style. Women's standard dress was not popularly distributed. Instead, many japanese women wore mompe, the active wear of standard dress. Almost all of japanese women wore mompe by the end of war because of its practical use. The effects of national suit, standard dress, and mompe on the rapid westernization of postwar japanese clothing can be summarized as follows. First, national suit and standard dress contributed to the official acceptance of the western clothes as japanese daily clothes. Second, national suit, standard dress, and mompe changed the traditional view of japanese on clothing and caused the rapid westernization of japanese clothing with the high emphasis on the practical and functional use of clothing. Especially, as japanese women wore mompe as the outer garment, mompe affected the view of japanese on women's body and it served as an important stimulus to speed the westernization of japanese women's clothing.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.26 no.3
• /
• pp.138-154
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to identify the characteristics of domestic American casual fashion trends using big data text mining analysis. 108,524 posts and 2,038,999 extracted keywords from Naver and Daum related to American casual fashion in the past 5 years were collected and refined by the Textom program, and frequency analysis, word cloud, N-gram, centrality analysis, and CONCOR analysis were performed. The frequency analysis, 'vintage', 'style', 'daily look', 'coordination', 'workwear', 'men's wear' appeared as the main keywords. The main nationality of the representative brands was Japanese, followed by American, Korean, and others. As a result of the CONCOR analysis, four clusters were derived: "general American casual trend", "vintage taste", "direct sales mania", and "American styling". This study results showed that Japanese American casual clothes are influenced by American casual clothes, and American casual fashion in Korea, which has been reinterpreted, is completed with various coordination and creative styles such as workwear, street, military, classic, etc., focusing on items and brands. Looks were worn and shared on social networks, and the existence of an active consumer group and market potential to obtain genuine products, ranging from second-hand transactions for limited edition vintages to individual transactions were also confirmed. The significance of this study is that it presented the characteristics of American casual fashion trends academically based on online text data that the public actually uses because it has been spread by the public.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.22
• /
• pp.313-332
• /
• 1994

The purpose of this study were as follows : 1) Investigate how to intluence Clothes with time background and trends of art-thought in the twenty century. 2) To understand chronologically how to change hair style Make-up and hair decor-ation. I. 1st and 2nd World War time(1920-1945) The women's social status and their sexual equality was promoted during in this time. 1) African Art Surrealism and Expression art were doninated. 2) The popalar trends were tutular silhoutte (Slim and long) boyish Style and military lookwere popular. 3) The popalar trends of were Eton Crop. short bob gaconne hair style cloche hat. page boy hair style were popular. 4) The trend of make-up which specially. emphasized eye make-up and imitated movie star make-up and make shining redish of lip and nails were popular. II. The stage of modernism(1945-1969) cold war time between communism and capi-talism and promotin of women's human rights were established in this time. 1) Pop art avantgrade art were catched up 2) The popular trends of were new look Kior's line silhoutte mini skirt and young fashion. 3) The popular trend of hair style was french twist. Pill Boxs hat curly bob style were prevalenced and they some what dwarfed hair style. 4) make-up natural make-up was popular. III. The stage of high economic development (1969-1990) Increased population economic development were tend to specialize with anti-social action such as Hippie and Punk groups. 1) Op art Androgynous post-modernism Punk and neo-modernism were catched up. 2) Clothes : classic style of reactionism layered look Punk-fashion avantgrade fashion and pantalon suits were prevalence. 3) Hair Style : Twiggy's short hair style the geometric hair cut natural long hair Spike hair unsex-hair style. 4) Make-up : diversified individuality were prevalence The result of this study indicated that the value's of recognize the importance of total fashion that is the harmonization of clothes hair style and make-up.

• Journal of the Korea Academia-Industrial cooperation Society
• /
• v.17 no.10
• /
• pp.27-33
• /
• 2016

Military textiles with breathable waterproof materials are expanding as form of winter clothes. Waterproof moisture-permeable clothes are very important for soldiers to survive in cold weather operations because they prevent loss of body heat from the penetration of water into the human body. Korea military uses the water resistance and moisture permeability to test the performance of waterproof moisture-permeable materials. Moisture permeability is measured according to the amount of evaporated water vapor passing through a fabric under specified temperature and humidity by using acetic acid potassium presented in KS K 0594. However, the test procedure for measuring the moisture permeability in the standard is presented only briefly and the preparation procedures for the test in accredited testing institutions are applied differently, leading to significant deviation of the results. This paper compares the procedures of testing institutions and examines the factors that affect moisture permeability. Finally, we propose a procedure to reduce the deviation of results and apply the proposed procedure in testing institutions. Our analysis results with one-way ANOVA under significant level (0.05) confirm that the deviation of results is reduced.

• Journal of Conservation Science
• /
• v.33 no.5
• /
• pp.363-370
• /
• 2017

The aim of this study was to obtain information about two early-20th Century clothes, for which the "National Memorial Museum of Forced Mobilization under Japanese Occupation" has sought to receive preservation treatment. Optical microscopes and a scanning electron microscope were used to investigate the weaving of the clothes, and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy(FT-IR) was used to investigate the fibers. Cloth A is believed to be a Japanese half sleeved inner wear(Hanjuban) used by women. Cloth B is believed to be working clothing that was checked by an Osaka plant. This was verified by a book written by the Japanese army. Both of the clothes were made mostly from cotton, although the inner wear also used viscose rayon on the neck collar. The button on the working wear was made of urea formaldehyde resin, an early precursor to plastic.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.7 no.2
• /
• pp.230-241
• /
• 1999

The purpose of this study is to classify frequency of advertisement and types of advertisement by items and to analyze a primary factors were factors were reflected in the costumes by a policy of rule under the Japanese rule. Data was MaIl Shin Bo\`s advertisement connected with costumes from 1910 to 1945 years. The results are as follows : 1. The order of the advertisement\`s frequency was footwear, cosmetics, soap[, headgear, western style clothes, precious metals and so on. 2. The type of the advertisement was a format that transmits informs in all items. Cosmetics, hairdye and shampoo applied positive appeals. 3. In the military government, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 37.5% and a shoe store was the first order. A shoes and headgear were high level, because of these were essential imports and were allowded as a proper articles for a western style clothes by a civilized policy. In the political periods of civilization, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 54%. This result indicates industrial development of this period. Soap was the first order during 1924∼1933 and cosmetics was the first order during 1934∼1940. High level of the advertisement\`s frequency in these imports were reflected by a cultural policy as a link of an appeasement measure In the political periods of a racial liquidation, the advertisement\`s frequency connected with costumes was 8.5% and the advertisement\`s order by items was cosmetics, a shoe store. The reason was that reflected the phases of the times that was serious by a shortage of goods and an reinforcement of wartime\`s attitudes throughout war.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.9 no.1
• /
• pp.51-69
• /
• 2007

Mu-Guan(武冠) is a headgear of northern nomadic people's costume, Ho-Bok(胡服). It became a part of Chinese(中原) Costume through the adoption of Ho-Bok(胡服) by King Muryong(武寧王) of Kingdom of Cho(趙). Chinese(中原人) did not use it as the formal costume of high class but the Costume military or low-level classes because Chinese(中原人) reguad it as a practical costume only for low-level classes. In this process, Mu-Guan(武冠) and it's clothes had got changed. It became high in shape by an influence Hsien-pi(鮮卑族)'s headgear and became generous in it's going with clothes for Chinese(中原) Costume. It needs to attend that Mu-Guan(武冠) could be found in Koguryo(高句麗)'s mural paintings. Mu-Guan(武冠) of Koguryo(高句麗) had kept the same pattern from middle of 4C to late of 5C. Actually Koguryo(高句麗)'s Mu-Guan(武冠) was similar with Han(漢) dynasty's, but It was quite different from Qin(晉) or Wei(北魏) dynasty's which belong to same period with Koguryo(高句麗)'s. It is possible to guess at Koguryo(高句麗) advanced Mu-Guan(武冠) as their own. Koguryo(高句麗) could be aware of 'Changed Mu-Guan(武冠)'. Because there are frequent diplomatic event between Koguryo(高句麗) and Chiese Dynasties, Barbarian Dynasties. Moreover the guess have persuasion by the existence of 'Changed Mu-Guan(武冠)'in Jee-an(集安) district's mural painting as a Costume of holy person. In brief, It could be noticed that Koguryo(高句麗)'s Mu-Guan(武冠) is distinguished from Chinese and Barbarian dynasties' and Koguryo(高句麗) advanced Mu-Guan(武冠) in their own style.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.6 s.115
• /
• pp.172-183
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.116-127
• /
• 2002

The hip-hop fashion of the nineteens is just as important in hip-hop as in rapping, breaking, or graffitiwriting to young people. Hip-hop fashions major influences range from martial-arts moves, to street-gang uniforms and paraphernalia. Hip-hop fashion grew and evolved with the subculture. The identification with street-gang culture is important to hip-hop in general and still set the pace for hip-hop fashion. There are things that are necessary fashion components for each segment of hip-hop life. So even prisons are now selling prison clothes. Explaining the look, The rawest street element is a jail element, so the strongest statement is a uniform with shirts and trousers that match perfectly, like a jail piece. Insiders can detect the away of gang and prison culture on the iconography of seemingly innocuous brands. Hip-hop glam is part of an evolution of hip-hop style. Rap's gone luxe, and it is women who are leading the high-fashion charge. They wear in diamonds and fur. Now it is a very glam. Now, many brands are upping their marketing activities through a focus on their women's lines in advertising, and featuring hot celebrities. There is also a lot of rethinking of looks going on. Sexy and tight is emerging as the style of choice in this market and fabrications are becoming more important, as designers refine and upgrade their women's line. The clothes of hip-hop glam were the ordinary with the extraordinary: Designer fur and leather with athletic team jerseys, Nike sneakers, diamond bracelets and mall brands like Guess and Fubu. The hip-hop musician's sporty hip-hop looks has amply young people. The hip-hop looks of baggy jeans, oversized shirts and rugged outerwear have become a part of mainstream fashion. Hip-hop fashion has the characteristics of being sporty. In the 90s, Military look has got one of the fashionable hip-hop fashion style. It does not have inner symbolic meaning or ideology but it only represents a fashion trend and revival fashion. Not only fashion designer but also hip-hop musician selected the trend for hip-hop fashion style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.706-718
• /
• 2014

Ideology which symbolizes the belief system about the order of human society represents itself in a concrete form through dress which reflects material and conceptual world. In the early 1960s Korea, where a civil revolution and a military coup took place, good examples of dress representing ideology could be found. This study investigates the dress representing ideology of the period, and examines its manifestation and aspect of transition. Literature survey and case study were conducted. The following results were obtained: First, dress representing ideology was symbolically verifying its differences and was changing with the course of time. There were the flow going down from the government, and the flow going up from the movement of the civilian. Through this process, design elements of ideological dress were combined in a dialectic way to form a new representational dress such as Jaegunbok. Second, costly and luxurious clothes meant a tool to rule over people, and the opposition was uniform meaning equality. In 1960 Korea, black waves of school uniforms appeared to lead the social change. A year later, the military government seized power in a 5.16 coup and it enforced uniform upon every people to achieve equal austerity and modernized spirit. Lastly, cotton, which was originated from Gandhi's movement in India, was symbolizing nationalism till the early 1960s in Korea meaning the funding own development with own resources.