• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.1
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• pp.1-19
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• 2024

The purpose of this study is to examine the color characteristics of menswear in different cities, focusing on the Paris, Milan, New York, Tokyo, and London collections. To answer the research question, the sampled colors were classified according to their hues and tones for frequency analysis and cross-analysis. The results are as follows: 'Red', which appeared frequently in the S/S and F/W seasons, was a core color in menswear design, and regardless of the season, 'blackish tones' were most commonly used. The cross-analysis uncovered a significant difference in the trends of hues in the F/W season between the cities. The colors that were more frequently used among the cities were as follows: 'blue-green' in the Paris collection, 'blue' and 'purple' in the Milan collection, 'purple' and 'purple-blue' in the London collection, 'yellow' in the New York collection, and 'red' and 'green' in the Tokyo collection. This study illustrates the significance of the F/W season's use of colors in menswear design and discovered through analysis that hues, rather than tones, were used to express individuality. These results are expected to be used as basic data for the analysis of menswear design trends.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.222-239
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• 2021

In this study, six mainland Chinese designer brands-Xander Zhou, Sankuanz, Sean Suen, Feng Chen Wang, Pronounce, and Angel Chen-were selected that had their works presented at both Chinese and global fashion shows between 2016 and 2021. By analyzing the design characteristics of each brand, it is possible to understand the style characteristics and trends of Chinese menswear designs. A case study approach was adopted utilizing literature data, whereby 1663 photos were collected from the fashion information website POP (www.pop-fashion.com). Changes in Chinese men's image and the menswear market were identified. The design characteristics of modern Chinese menswear are as follows. First, the results from analyzing the target brands show that each brand has a distinct personality. Compared with the traditional or formal style, urban casual and sports styles (based on street style) account for a larger proportion. Second, the boundaries between different styles are becoming ambiguous, and contrasting styles are harmoniously expressed by breaking down boundaries through changes and combinations of colors, materials, and details. Third, after examining the overall trend, 2018 was a watershed point, after which the design trend has changed from either conservative or exaggerated to a practical and everyday style, demonstrating a genderless trend.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.74-87
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• 2012

Many fashion designers were inspired by arts. Not only arts itself but also the sprit of the artist links with fashion. This study based on French artist Yves Klein who died in 1962, at the age of 34. Klein created over a thounsand works in only seven years. Among the his various art collections, it is focused on Yves Peintures, I.K.B(International Klein Blue) and Sponge sculpture. The extracted some of core concepts including aesthetic of Klein about color and line, space perception in monochrome and expansion of monochrome toward three dimensional sponge sculptures were transformed into fashion design. As a result, Yves Sweats project, which is T-shirts project based on Yves Peintures, designed as a three-dimentional expansion of Monochrome and it was shown at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Tranoi homme trade show in Paris. Also Yves Klein collection was designed as a ready-to-wear menswear collection that was presented at Fall/Winter 2011-12 Seoul Fashion Week.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.5
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• pp.52-71
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• 2020

This study examines the color characteristics of the usage of the color pink in menswear by analyzing its usage status and method. It involves an empirical research method establishing the frame of the study through a document study centered on trend, gender neutral considerations, and the utilization of the color pink in men's fashion, by analyzing the characteristics of color and tone by extracting the pink color shown in menswear collections as well as analyzing and categorizing the fashion image and genderless characteristics. Analyzing the color and tone of the pink color shown indicate that bright, light and pale tones had higher proportions. Pink color can also be said to be utilized as a design element that gives off a younger and more vital color image in menswear. Further, the use of brighter and softer pink colors can be interpreted as reflecting modern society's demands of masculinity to change into a more sophisticated and soft image. To analyze the characteristics of the color pink utilized in gender neutral fashion, fashion images were presented as the analysis standard. An image grouping technique was used to classify pink while utilizing genderless types-fashion style. The result showed that even with the same pink color, the fashion image can vary with different methods of expression in terms of clothes and styling. The results of this study can serve as basic data for planning fashion design concepts as it analyzed pink-using fashion images and the genderless concept type.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.2
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• pp.353-364
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• 2016

This study analyzes French designer Hedi Slimane who has received recent attention from the fashion world. He changed sub-culture 'Rock Fashion' into high fashion and altered the stereotype of the existing menswear with the skinny look. His extreme slim-fit style also has changed the menswear market dramatically. Hedi Slimane was mainly inspired by various rock music genres from the 1960 to 2000s such as glam rock, psychedelic rock, grunge rock, and garage rock. He showed in his own rock style when creating his collection. The collections inspired from the specific rock music and style were selected from Dior Homme (2001F/W-2007F/W) and Saint-Laurent (2013F/W-2015F/W), and analyzed by the 4 genres of rock music and fashion style as follows. First, glam rock style appeared in Dior Homme 2005F/W and Saint Laurent 2014S/S with glamorous full make-up, animal printings, and glitter textures. Second, psychedelic rock style appeared in Saint Laurent 2015S/S with flower patterns, afro hair, fur vests, and western & ethnic bohemian styling. Third, grunge rock style appeared at Dior Homme 2005S/S and Saint Laurent 2013F/W with messedup hair, destroyed jeans, and layering style. Fourth, garage rock style appeared mainly at Dior Homme 2006 S/S with messed-up hair, slim suit, fedora, and sneakers. This result is expected to be used for research and development on modern rock style for contemporary menswear.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.1-15
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• 2022

The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze the perception of men's fashion before and after the COVID-19 pandemic. TEXTOM allowed the collection of Big Data based on the term 'men's fashion'. As for the data collection periods, Jan. 1, 2018 to Dec. 31, 2019 was set as the pre-COVID-19 era, while Jan. 1, 2020 to Dec. 31, 2021 was set as the post-COVID-19 era. The top 50 words in terms of appearance frequency were extracted from the data. The extracted words were processed using network centrality analysis and CONCOR analysis using Ucinet 6. Research findings were as follows. 1) In the pre-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', 'daily look', 'suit', and 'department store'. These words came up with a high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis discovered that 'men', 'fashion', 'men's fashion', 'brand', and 'suit' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and styles', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'collection'. 2) In the post-COVID-19 era, the appearance frequency of 'men' was the highest, followed by 'fashion', 'brand', 'men's fashion', 'discount', 'women', and 'luxury'. These words also displayed high TF-IDF values. Network centrality analysis found that 'fashion', 'men', 'brand', 'men's fashion', and 'discount' had a high level of connectivity with other words. CONCOR analysis showed four significant groups: 'fashion item and style', 'fashion show', 'purchase', and 'situation'. 3) Before the outbreak of the pandemic, men were interested in suits to wear to the office, daily look, and fashion shows in Milan and Paris. They often purchased menswear in multi-brand and open stores. However, they were more interested in sneakers, casual styles, and online fashion shows as social distancing and working from home became common. Most purchased menswear through online platforms.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.63 no.3
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• pp.61-77
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to analyze the concept and characteristics of parody, and consider how parody was reflected in Thom Browne's collection centering on the expressive method. Thus, this study will attempt to shed new light on the creative possibility and artistic value of parody in men's fashion design. The methods are as follows. The ideas, characteristics and expressive methods that represent parody was considered by referencing various related books, papers, art critiques, etc. Based on this theoretical study, a case of Thom Browne's collection (Thom Browne menswear: 2004 S/S-2012 F/W) was observed to find types of parody, attributes and significance. Photo material was collected through websites such as www.thombrowne.com, www.style.com, etc. The type and characteristics of parody expressed in Thom Browne's collection was considered in the following aspects: imitative parody, critical parody and pastiche parody. Through such consideration, it was possible to realize the fashion designs that adapt Thom Browne's parody are very deliberate and calculative. The designs convey exaggeration, destruction of form, emphasis on discontinuity, transition into attraction, aesthetics of unfamiliarity, characteristic aspects of irrationality and contradiction. Through the study, it was possible to see Thom Browne's collection with parody adaptation shaping new creativity and broadening formative aspects in fashion design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.4
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• pp.99-116
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• 2020

This study examines the characteristics of Paul Smith's fashion from the viewpoint of Habitus. To this end, on the theory of Bourdieu's Habitus concept and theory of the field, we derive the attributes of fashion and fashion designers and Habitus that appeared in fashion from the viewpoint of Habitus. Based on this, the tendency of Paul Smith's Habitus tendency has been examined and how it is expressed in fashion design and store production has been investigated. The scope of the study is from 1977 to the present, and it covers Paul Smith's menswear and stores. Research methods are literature research and visual data analysis. The results of the study are as follows. The characteristics of Habitus' tendency in Paul Smith are childlike imagination and humor, vigorous curiosity and observation, paranoid collection and memos, and British tradition and craftsmanship. Paul Smith's Habitus propensity reflects the following features in fashion design and store direction. First, a unique mix of wit or list structure, second, respect for uniqueness and discrimination with respect for the local image, and third, the new male image was presented to contribute to the diversification of consumers, and fourth, sensitivity and emotion reflecting his Habitus propensity. It is a friendly space for communication. As a result of analyzing and applying to Paul Smith, it was found that the special Habitus characteristics possessed by designers in fashion are important and impart a great influence.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.26 no.4
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• pp.32-51
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• 2022

This study analyzed the characteristics and expression techniques of men's fashion bags and their aesthetic and formative values in modern men's fashion from the perspective of neo-deconstructivism. The study subjects were men's fashion bags appearing in four collections in Paris, Milan, London, and New York in the 2019 S/S-2021 S/S season. As a research method, the characteristics and expression techniques of the new disintegration of men's fashion bags were analyzed and categorized through prior research and literature research. The results of the study are as follows: First, the neoclassical characteristics of men's fashion bags caused 'Re-creation' to appear as the dissolution of the design principle and structure of the bag, and it was derived as 'decomposition of form' and 'decomposition of dress method'. Second, the 'Inclusive Diversity' of modern men's fashion bags of neo-deconstructivism appears in the form of gender demarcation and dissonance coordination. Third, 'Playfulness' in men's fashion bags involves the pursuit of fun through unconventional changes in the shape, size, and design of the bag, and it sometimes provides a fresh, new play experience through unpredictable design elements. Fourth, the 'Pursuit of new values' in male's fashion bags was a characteristic wherein the boundary between DIY attire and daily clothes and high fashion by the individual selection of consumers was blurred. This work is meaningful in that it conducted a basic study of men's fashion bags by examining the modern men's fashion bag from the perspective of the philosophical trend of neo-deconstructivism and categorizing its characteristics.