• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.31 no.5
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• pp.573-585
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• 2023

Comprehending the prevailing ideals of the body within a specific era requires grasping the intricate interplay between social phenomena and the evolution of clothing. Accordingly, this study investigates the distinctive facets of the perception of the Neo-Confucian body as reflected in men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty. We examine a comprehensive body of scholarship, literature, and historical records concerning the body and dress. Additionally, we also employ a framework developed by M. Y. Kim, which categorizes the Neo-Confucian body in three ways: as the natural body, the cultural body, and the body as a fully-realized moral subject. Our findings unveil three crucial insights: firstly, guided by Neo-Confucian discourse positing appearance as a manifestation of innate energy (氣), men's dress was deliberately designed to demarcate stylistic distinctions in women's dress; secondly, the Chinese gwan (冠) was employed as a tool of self-cultivation (修身) to symbolize the legitimacy of Joseon's Neo-Confucian governance; and thirdly, sim-ui (深衣), a philosophical emblem of Confucianism extensively represented across through an intensified exploration of historical sources, served as a means to consolidate the political standing of the Neo-Confucian faction. As a consequence of these factors, the attire of noble men conferred upon them both sexual and moral ascendancy as political entities; men's dress became a visual manifestation of the legitimacy of their power, thus embodying Neo-Confucian ideals. This study carries significance by applying a discourse analysis approach to Korean dress research and elucidating the factors underlying the development of men's dress during the Joseon Dynasty.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.275-284
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• 2014

This study aims to suggest the patternmaking method of men's slim-fit four-panel jacket sloper in their 30's. The researcher collected four kinds of existing slopers and carried out appearance and movement evaluations twice. Then the researcher's sloper was developed by modifying and supplementing the existing sloper with high scores in the evaluations. The results are as follows: First, when comparing the existing slopers, ease on the chest varied from 13 cm to 17.8 cm. Actual measurements or formula method were used for the armhole depth, waist line, and hip line. It was one-third of armhole length for the sleeve cap height in most existing slopers. Second, the researcher's sloper had excellent scores in the appearance and movement evaluations (front neck depth, ease on the chest, front dropped length, ease on the sleeve cap, and the position that separate the two piece sleeves on the back). Third, the suggested sloper, has 13~14 cm for ease in the chest circumference and 2.5 cm for front dropped length. It sets to chest/4+2 cm for armhole depth, height/4+1 cm for waist line placement, and height/8 for hip length. The sleeve cap height is one-third of armhole length. These results will be useful when the industrial technical designers develop various jacket patterns.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.1-12
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• 2010

This study diagnosed difference of preference about demand performance with design of men's suit according to demographic characteristic and figured out Needs of adult man consumers for men's suit. This study is survey research. In order to collect data, a questionnaire was used. To analyze the collected data, fact analysis, $\chi^2$, ANOVA, Duncan's multiple comparisons and the rest were carried out with using SPSS 14.0. Result of this study could get as following. According to silhouette and color, there was difference to age, attainments in scholarship and preference according to job. Also young people preferred fitted-silhouette and in occasion of color, all of them preferred best black. It was no difference according to demographic characteristic in preferring pattern but preferred best solid on the whole. Demand performance of men's suit appeared by five main causes of design, practicality, comfort, appearance appropriateness, another person awareness and functional materials. And most main causes showed difference according to demographic characteristic.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.16 no.2
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• pp.101-120
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• 2016

The primary purpose of this study is to explore the daily lives of gay men and assess their interests in fashion and appearance management with the goal of better understanding the roles or meanings of fashion in their lives. In-depth interview method was adopted and the responses were analyzed qualitatively. Six homosexual men were interviewed, and the outcome of each conversation was recorded and analyzed; each man had a different background and thus showed different behavioral patterns. The life patterns distinct to Korean gays, the importance the highly patriarchal society places on family lineage and mandatory military service, for example, were discussed. Even though the interviewees asserted that their interests in fashion is not related to their sexual orientation, fashion was utilized as a means of self-expression by these gay men.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.4
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• pp.605-618
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• 2014

This study aims to compare the ease of men's slim pants patterns, and to analyze the fit and appearance through the 3D virtual garment system. The study selected four educational materials and one industrial pattern of slim pants for a total of five items. The CLO 3D Modelist program was utilized to carry out the appearance evaluation through virtual wearing and opacity, and a comparison was performed regarding the clothing pressure when the virtual model was standing and walking. The results of our comparison of the patternmaking for slim pants showed that pattern C pants had the greatest ease on the waist circumference, while B pants showed no ease. The C and E pants also had the most ease on the hip measurement. In the appearance evaluation, A pants received the most favorable results, followed by D, E, B, and C, in descending order. The clothing pressure appeared to be mainly red on the waist, crotch, and hem when standing in all pants, so the clothing pressure was high. While walking, the stress appeared to be different for the left and right parts of the body, and the most significant difference was observed on the thigh area.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.157-175
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• 2014

This study aimed to develop appropriate jeans patterns for men in their twenties. The study discovered designs and materials that were most commonly used by investigating preferred jeans brands for men in their twenties, and among them three brands were selected. The study carried out a fitting assessment aimed at research subjects who had the average body type of men in their twenties and who wore jeans of the selected brands. Then, the study designed research patterns by taking as a basic pattern the patterns of the company who received the highest score and modifying any part that revealed a problem. After making the research jeans in twice, a fitting adequacy assessment was undertaken in order to identify any difference between the existing jeans and the research jeans. As a result of the appearance assessment, the problems shown in appearance overall was confirmed to be improved as it received a higher assessment compared with the existing jeans overall. As a result of the fitting assessment, the study collected the assessment results of waist measurement, hip circumference, thigh circumference, and fit of back central line laid slope ease. Based on the result, the study confirmed the parts to be modified and proposed slim fit jeans patterns in consideration of the body type characteristics of men in their twenties.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.51-72
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• 1998

Futurists objected the existent style, that is the conventional fashion, and took part in these disciplines of fashion to make clothes the instruments being able to represent the individuality. Giacomo Balla and fortunato Depero, pain-ters who in 1915 were to work with Diaghilev's company, were the first to see clothing as a dynamic interfaced between th body and the atmosphere, between physical gestures and the urban context, which could be translated into encounters between forms and colours, volumes and architecture. For them, clothing began to exist as an object and an event, something to be removed from a mainly static conception and made mobile, active. The interaction between movement and clothing was based on the relativity of perception : the appearance and disappearance of the body produced points without dimension or duration which served, as Balla wrote in the Futurist Mnaifesto of Men's Clothing to“renew incessantly the enjoyment and impetuous movement of the body”. The historical achievement in the effort for the reformation of Futurist, Art to Wear. First, for Futurist, clothing is removed from a static conception and focused on dynamics. Second, Balla used asymmetry in men's clothing. Moreover he supposed dynamic men's clothes by using optical intersection. Third, the after image of Chronophotograph represented rapidity. This rhythmic expression is the fore-runner in Optical and Kinetic Art of Visual Art. Fourth, Futurist emphasized flexibility in fashion. They aimed to create‘Clothing Machines’whose parts would interact to aceelerate the real and virtual, inner and outer movement of the human being. Fifth, the variety and short life of cutting skills and colors are focused and‘Fast Substance’in fashion is admitted by Futurists. Futurist concern with clothing was not lim-ited its appearance in terms of cut and colour. What important was also the way it appeared and disappeared according to fashion. It was a“fast substance”, able to reflect rapid, sudden changes of social and aesthetic taste. To reach to the aim of internationalization, Gesamtkunstwerk in our Art to Wear, it is extremely meaningful to examine art fashion which is created under the conception of Gesamtkunstwerk production of avang garde artist in the early 20th century and look at formative conscious of truth, goodess and beauty synthetically which they faced on their works of art.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.5
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• pp.636-643
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• 2008

The purpose of this study was to establish the proper amount of eases according to the body type of men's bodice basic pattern. The 3 subjects in 30's men were selected for developing fitted pattern for each type. And the results of the wearing test for individual subject by distributing ease amount are as follows. The wearing test is administrated by a division of 12cm, 15m, and 18cm areas respectively after separating the fitted pattern for each type in a vertical and horizontal ways. There exists a significant difference in ease according to the measures of chest circumference of subjects. Also, it is shown that the more comfortable in function, the better visible in appearance as the ease gets proper. As to regions, the amount and ratio of ease chest circumference are increased in proportion to the size of the chest circumference. The scye depth is affected by the ease of chest circumference, while the ease of the interscye and the back breadth are lessened due to the effect of their appearances. And the side breadth is required as a buffer to complement the shortage of the interscye and the back breadth because the ease of either the interscye or the back breadth is partially transferred in motion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.3 s.102
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• pp.143-155
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• 2006

This study aims to examine the difference of body image and psychological well-being of men and women according to appearance management. The subjects of the study were 673 college students who lived in Seoul and metropolitan areas. Statistical analyses used in the study were factor analysis, Cronbach's a, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test and $\chi^2-test$. The results of this study were as follows; 1. The body image was categorized into the three factors of personal interest innce, anxiety about weight and physical attraction. Appearance management was categorized into the appearance management through clothing, strict diet therapy and daily appearance management. The psychological well-being was classified as seven factors which include the life goal, self-acceptance, positive personal relations, self-regulation, personal development, environment control and responsibility. 2. The appearance management was classified by 4 groups as below: Daily appearance management group, strict diet therapy group, appearance management through clothing group and no interest in appearance group. 3. There were significant differences among the four groups regarding body image, psychological well-being and life satisfaction. First, appearance management through clothing group had more interest in appearance than other groups. In the case of weight awareness, strict diet therapy group and the appearance management through clothing group intended to have more concerns over their weight. The strict diet therapy group seemed to have an overall lower level of psychological well-being than other groups. Lastly, the appearance management through clothing group had a higher level of life satisfaction.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.42 no.11
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• pp.137-150
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• 2004

The purpose of this study was to examine the effect of clothing color and exposure on stereotype formation of female appearance. The subjects for the research survey were 418 male and female university students in Taejon, Korea. The measuring instruments were a self-administered questionnaire and six written scripts which described a woman wearing clothing manipulated by clothing color and exposure variables. The collected data were analyzed using content analysis, T-test, crosstabs analysis, ANOVA, and Duncan's multiple range test. The results of this study were as follows. First, three dimensions (global image, appearance inference, and appearance evaluation) emerged from the subject responses. Clothing exposure had the greatest impact upon the stereotype formation of female appearance. The woman wearing exposed clothing was rated as 'sexy', 'confident', and 'glamorous' whereas the same woman wearing unexposed clothing was rated as 'slim', 'humdrum', 'ladylike', and 'neat'. Second, the gender of the subject played a role in forming stereotypes of women's appearance. The male subjects rated the woman wearing exposed clothing as 'sexy' and 'glamorous' whereas the 1em81e subjects rated the same woman as 'slim' and 'pretty'. Third, the male subjects evaluated the woman wearing expend clothing in much more negative terms than the female subjects did, indicating that men tended to use 'modesty' to evaluate the woman whereas women tended to use 'fashion trend' in addition to 'modesty' as the important criteria when assessing women dressed in exposed clothing. Fourth, the subjects judged the woman wearing exposed clothing to be an entertainer or prostitute in her early 20s. On the other hand, the subjects judged the woman wearing unexposed clothing to be either a university student or a professional business women in her mid 20s.