• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50
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• pp.129-144
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• 2000

In the history of the costume of Western Europe one of the most interesting apects is that the silhouette of women's dress has been continuously evolved. There can be various origins in this changing silhouette but the most important origin is that clothes of any period are the reflection of the architectural political religious and economic background against which they are worn they must also be djusted to the texture and design of the materials produced at the time and of course there is always the basic instinct of sex attraction. The changing line in men's and women's clothes has been demanded by each period but man's great active life did not required the development of exaggerated line which could restrict his movements. Exaggeration in men's clothes has usually been confined to accessories only details could be simplified or abandoned altogether in time of action. However Woman has no great concern in these restrivtions and when an era demanded an exaggerated silhouette she developed it to the utmost limit with out any hesitation plunged herself into whalebone cane and steel for the desired line and then later to adapt herself to a changing world just as without any hesitaion abandoned all these artificial props. In this study first of all the origin of the corset and the evolution of silhouette will be chronologically studied and rearranged on the basis of written materials such as text books theses and catalogs which are related to corset In this section the most important backgrounds-social religious and economic-which caused the chages of silhouette will be scrutinized in a time order. Then the shapes and functions of corsets will be looked into in a more detailed way. In addition the materials and decorations which were preferred to achieve the desired silhouette will be examined. Finally underwear which was and has been worn for cleanness protection the shapes of outer clothes and erotic mood will be studied.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.255-268
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• 2011

This study carefully explored today's preferable beauty images, analyzed Korean adult purchasing trends of functional underwear and market analysis of the most popular items and their designs. Information and methods are based largely on reference book material as well as analysis of real domestic data. The paper's research timeline simply spans the last three years, as in accordance with project parameters. Helping improve body shape, foundation literally means 'substructur' and 'base'. The formativeness in these adult foundations typically has three main category classifications. First, natural modern image. This is where we find natural beauty including that which embodies a cool modern sense. Here, you can often see such patterns as either stripes and dots, or simply no patterns at all. Colors are green, red-brown, incarnadine, or khaki from a natural or basic human body color. Its products are marketed as both solid and durable eco-friendly materials, and lace-seethrough. Fashion's natural modern image is undoubtedly the most popular style purchase choice among both genders. Second, sweet romantic image. This mainly consists of two concepts : a sweet and romantic theme, and visual appeal. Patterns include flowers, lips, heart, stars, candies and various other appealing characters. Its main colors are pink, yellow, red, purple, and violet. Products are decorated with laces, frills and ribbons. Since only men's semi-girdles carry such designs, this fashion foundation is largely a women's world. While men show an obvious interest in foundation, they still mostly prefer the choice of natural modern images. Third, mystic sexy image. This is defined as all feminine images of mysterious and classic sexual beauty. Patterns are variously expressed as paisley, flowers, and geometric. Colors are largely purple, blue-green, royal-blue, cobalt, and black. Products are commonly decorated with beading, spangles, hot-fixes and so on. While this image can be found in all kinds of women's foundations, it typically appears only in men's corsets and girdles.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.203-219
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• 2007

The education chance and job opportunity of women have increased in the 19th century. Also, women tried to get the right and chance equal to men in this period. Therefore, the population of women participating in the sports have increased. And comfortable and practical pantaloons which men have been wearing were suggested to women. This study investigated the characteristics and change of women's sports wear relating to social change in the 19th century. The results of this study were as follows: 1. According to the social change, women participated in the sports activities with the opportunity equal to men, and the appropriate women's sports wear was needed. 2. Pantaloons which were suggested as the clothing reform movement became popular with the development of sports wear. 3. Simple, effective, comfortable and easy style sports wear was preferred. 4. Women accepted men's sports wear positively. 5. The women's sports wear varied according to the various kinds of sports. 6. The healthful design was preferred and harmful design was excluded. 7. Underwear was improved functionally and simplified. 8. The main materials were flannel, wool, tweed, homespun and serge, and the mail colors were brown, dark blue, gray and black.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.5
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• pp.53-64
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• 2000

The purpose of this study was to investigate the historical changes of western men's underclothes in the first half of the 20C and analyze functions and features of men's underclothes. This study was to utilize many literatures in the analysis of historical changes of western men's underclothes. In the 1900's, the attached collar was giving place to the detachable, and the coloured shirt for day wear was becoming accepted. The correct wear fur various occasions was given. Double collar was the favourite for day wear. The dress-shirt protector worn over the dress-shirt front. Men preferred to vest and pants in one as a combined garment. In the 1910's, underclothes were permitting freer movement, but what was still more significant was the glowing inclination to reduce the layers which covered the body. The new conception of decency which was beginning to appear continued to characterize underclothing the symbols of social rank, expect for formal occasion, were declining. For day the white shirt was being displaced by the soft-fronted shirt. In the 1927-1930's, Underclothes were reduced in number, extent and thickness. Underclothing had lost two of its original function : it no longer preserved the warmth of the body, nor did it disguise its essential shape. Both sexes discarded the use of white underwear, In the 1930's, men saw an increasing preference for the coloured shirt. Combinations became increasingly popular and the singlet were displacing the under-vest in the 1930's. All undergarments were very commonly in natural colours. In the 1940's, for evening dress. shirt was plain linen front and square cuffs. Short trunks reached to mid-thigh, had a front waist yoke with three button fastening. Underclothes were pursued ease and activity.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.261-271
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• 2000

In order to investigate the function and feature of western men's underclothes in the second half of the 19C, in this study, the historical changes of western men's underclothes are compared the first half of the 19C with the second half of the 19C. In the second half of the 19C, the useful function to ease for body was important. In the 1860's, for day-shirt, the tucked panels was disappeared and the front was pain. But the evening dress-shirt continued to show an expansive front tucked. Coloured shirts was used for country and sporting occasions. Ready-made underwear was used. In the 1870's, the plain breast was introduced and the Gladstone collar was used. Paper collars and dickeys were unfashionable. The drawers was composed a gusset at the back of the waistband. The dress of one generation was became the livery of the next. In the 1880's, a new feature was one stud and the use of pique for the breast. Coloured shirt was composed of stripes across the breast. In the 1890's, height of the collar steadily increased. The coat-shirt and regatta shirt became popular. The nice choice of shirt, collar and tie was a matter of supreme importance .The social status of the white shirt was further threatened by fancy coloured shirts. The mode of relaxation affected sports shirts. By the close of this period, both sexes accepted the hygienic rule of wool next the skin.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.6 no.1
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• pp.19-29
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• 2003

The 3D measurement data expected be useful to give appropriate garment fit and development of MTM(Made-to-Measure) CAD software. The researcher surveyed the need and use of national anthropometric data of the apparel industry. 17 Korean apparel manufacturers participated in the study. The need of anthropometric data at 5 different apparel business sectors was measured: men's suit, women's dress, casual-wear, underwear, and active sportswear. The result of the survey shows that height and bust, waist, hip circumferences are needed by all of the business sectors. The body measurements at the scye and upper arm area were need most by the men's suit manufacturers. The women's foundation garment manufacturers were well prepared for the use of the 3D body scan data and they expected the potential benefits of 3D body scan data would be great. The researcher also conducted a case study and found a pro and con of the using 3D body scan data for apparel product developing process. In the current stage of technical advance, a reasonable method was required to get nude like scan data for the women's foundation garment manufacturer. The researcher concluded that the apparel designer could use the 3D scan data for developing tremendous style garment design and pattern making.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.2
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• pp.37-45
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• 2006

Jean Paul Gaultier, debuted in 1970's and referred to as a bad boy in Paris fashion industry with his abnormal and ingenious ideas such as skirts for men, underwear outfit, etc, is a leading fashion designer. This study nay find its meaning from the fact that this study defines how the voluptuous beauty, one of the figurative beauties inherent in Jean Paul Gaultier's design, expresses in the movie costume and understands the world of the designer's fashion to provide a foundation to fashion designers who are looking for a new area where they can actively involve in. For the study, the 'The Fifth Element (1997)', in which the voluptuous beauty, Jean Paul Gaultier's representative figurative beauty, is fully revealed, and also it is his latest movie he participated in as costume designer, was selected and costume design is analyzed using DVD screen capture program. Also, this study reviewed his design with his collections from 1997 when he was invited to Haute Couture and began to actively perform his works down to date and also referred to numerous materials, fashion magazines, movie magazines, Internet data and etc. From the results of analyzing Jean Paul Gaultier collections, firs, the beauty he is pursuing is projected broadly in three types- the voluptuous beauty from clothing innovation, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature, the voluptuous beauty from exposure. Second, the movie ${\ulcorner}$The Fifth Element${\lrcorner}$ is well revealed the world of Jean Paul Gaultier's art presenting visual amusement and variety of attractions. Finally, the results of analyzing costume by characters say that the clothing innovation and the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Leeloo's costume, the voluptuous beauty from exposure on Korben Dallas's costume, the voluptuous beauty from unpolished nature on Zorg and Ruby Rhod's costumes are well shown respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.44 no.1
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• pp.33-52
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• 2020

Some consumers question the safety of imported fashion products. We examine the effects of the use of an ecolabel, product category, and country of origin on consumer responses such as perceived physical risk, attitude towards a product, subjective norm, and intention to purchase imported fashion products. A sample of 508 adults in their 30s to 40s participated in online survey experiments. The survey experiments used 2 (the use of the ecolabel vs no label) × 4 (country of origin: China, Dominican Republic, Norway, and the United States) between-subjects and 4 (product category: men/women's wear, children's wear, underwear, and accessories) within-sub-jects factorial design. A total of 32 product-catalog images (stimuli) and eight versions of the questionnaire were developed. The use of the ecolabel is identified as having a significantly lower perceived physical risk than the no-label. The consumers' perceived physical risk also differs depending on product category and country of origin. Consumers perceive a higher physical risk about children's wear and underwear than other product categories as well as fashion products sourced from developing countries than from developed countries. The reduction of physical risk is found to facilitate consumers' purchase decision-making process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.25 no.2
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• pp.327-338
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• 2001

The purpose of this thesis is to study the aspects of sex identity in the contemporary mens fashion expressed through sexual image and taste in the half of twentieth century. The aspects of sex identity expression in the contemporary mens fashion can be classified by image, that is, homosexual, heroic, bisexual, and fetish. 1. The homosexual image has shown the tendency to emphasize the masculinity since 1950.60s. It can be found in \"Cowboys costume\" which is typical of American traditional fashion, and jeans and underwear fashion expressed by muscular men has homosexual characteristics which contain narcissism. 2. Based on mens traditional gender role, the heroic image emphasizes mens physical characteristics and expresses tough and offensive masculine beauty in mens suit which is free from the authority and formality. 3. The bisexual image denied the division of gender role by costume and destroyed the traditional sex model by resolutely applying womens costume such as skirts to mens fashion. 4. The fetish image is similar to bisexual image in that they wear womens costume, but different in that it expresses sexual desire or fantasy. It is expressed through brilliant color, leather and metal ornaments, and sensual element of women which emphasizes \"body\". This shows the sex identity of contemporary men who want more sensible and free life.sible and free life.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.5
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• pp.716-726
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• 1994

The present study was conducted to analyze the type of appeal and constituent unit's expression of apparel advertising appeared in women's magazine through content analysis. The research questions raised for this study were: (1) Are there any differences in the type of appeal between outwear and uderwear, men's and women's outwear, and formal wear and casual wear advertising ? (2) Are there any differences in the type of appeal and constituent unit's expression of apparel advertising between the late of 1980's and the begining of 1990's ? "Women Sense", founded on August 1988, was used as research materials for the study. And the period of analysis was from September 1988 to March 1993. In order to reduce biases of monthly issues in magazine, the apparel advertisements for analysis were selected from March, June, September and December issues. A total of 348 apparel advertisements were analyzed. The data gethered were analyzed using the frequency table, percentage and chi-square test. The results were as follows: 1. The emotional appeal was used more often for apparel advertisements. 2. There was no difference in types of appeal between men's and women's outwear. Both of them frequently used emotional appeal type 3. Rational appeal and sex appeal type were used more frequently in underwear advertising than in outwear advertisements. 4. It was emotional appeal type that usually used in both formal and casual wear advertising, and sex appeal was employed more often in casual wear advertising than in formal wear advertising. 5. Romantic appeal was employed more aften in the late of 1980's than in the begining of 1990's. Sex appeal and rational appeal were used more often in the beginning of 1990's than in the late of 1980's. 6. Emotional (28.7%) and Assertion Propose Headlines (21.6%) were popular in the late of 1980's. 7. Brand Name Headline was shown most often in the begining of 1990's. 8. Emotional, Factual and Mixed Copies were generally used at all types of bodycopy. while there was no difference in types of bodycopy between the periods. 9. Direct Approach, that a model introduced advertising goods to consumer, was mainly used in illustration. There was no difference in different types of illustration between the periods.