• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.22 no.6
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• pp.405-414
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• 2010

In the study, experiments are performed in the mixing region combined wave and current to investigate the characteristics of local scour around a slender pile. Wave generator and current generator are used for the experiments and currents are co-directions with the waves. The local scour depths around the pipeline are obtained according to the various pipe diameters, wave periods, wave heights, and current velocities. The experiments show that the maximum equilibrium local scour depth increases with pipe diameter, wave period, wave height, and current velocity. Using the experimental results, the correlations of scour depth and parameters such as Shields parameter ($\theta$), Froude number (Fr), Keulegan-Carpenter number (KC), Ursell number ($U_R$), modified Ursell number ($U_{RP}$) and ratio of velocities ($U_c/U_c+U_m$) are analyzed. In the mixing region combined with waves and currents, The Froude number of single parameters is the main parameter to cause the local scour around a slender pile due to waves and current and this means that current governs the scour within any limits of the currents.

• Journal of the Korean Society for Marine Environment & Energy
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.36-41
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• 2013

In this paper time series wave data are simulated using wave spectrum with random phases of the wave signal. The simulated wave signals are used to study the effect of the sampling rate on the ocean wave characteristics. Effect of sampling rate on wave data which include extreme wave such as freak waves are examined and various wave characteristics including abnormality index (AI), kurtosis of wave profile and maximum wave height are examined. Various wave heights are decreased as the sampling rate decreases. The zero-th moment of the wave spectrum does not affect much on the sampling rate but the second moment are greately affected on the sampling rate. The error due to the sampling rate is decreases as the wave period increases. The error in significant wave height based on the wave spectrum $H_s$ is smaller than that on the time domain method $H_{1/3}$. AI index and kurtosis of wave profile do not deviate much from the exact date as long as the sampling rate is greater than 1 Hz. Ocean wave measurement with the sampling frequency higher than 1 Hz will result the error less than 5% in estimating the height of extreme waves.

• The Sea:JOURNAL OF THE KOREAN SOCIETY OF OCEANOGRAPHY
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• v.3 no.1
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• pp.9-15
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• 1998

Hourly meteorological data from a marine buoy ($34^{\circ}49'00"N$, $125^{\circ}46'00"E$) operated by the Korean Meteorological Agency were obtained from July, 1996 to February, 1997. From the data air-sea heat fluxes and marine meteorological characteristics around the area are estimated. The maximum outflux of sensible heat from the sea surface occurred in January (monthly mean value, 12.6 $Wm^{-2}$ and the maximum influx to the sea occurred in July (monthly mean value, 5.5 $Wm^{-2}$). This means that the sea is heated in summer while it loses its heat in winter, and that there is inequality between the absolute values of the two seasons. The outflux of the maximum latent heat occurred in November (monthly mean value, 86.5 $Wm^{-2}$) and reach a value of 300 $Wm^{-2}$, and the maximum influx occurred in July (monthly mean value, 4.6 $Wm^{-2}$). Big difference is shown in their absolute values when the wind becomes strong. The outgoing latent heat flux reaches its maximum in autumn, and it maintains the high value through the whole winter. According to the wave data analysis, the significant wave heights are larger in winter than in summer. The periods of the significant waves are 4~6 sec. In winter, waves propagated from north and northeast are dominant because of the winter monsoon, while in summer waves from south, southwest, and west are relatively frequent.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.33 no.4
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• pp.139-147
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• 2021

In this study, waves were defined using the water surface elevation data observed from the HeMOSU-1 and 2 marine meteorological observation towers installed on the west coast of Korea, and correlation analysis was performed between wave parameters. The wave height and wave period were determined using the wave-train analysis method and the wave spectrum analysis method, and the relationship between the wave parameters was calculated and compared with the previous study. In the relation between representative wave heights, most of the correlation coefficients between waves showed a difference of less than 0.1% in error rate compared to the previous study, and the maximum wave height showed a difference of up to 29%. In addition, as a result of the correlation analysis between the wave periods, the peak period was estimated to be abnormally large at rates of 2.5% and 1.3% in HeMOSU-1&2, respectively, due to the effect of the bimodal spectrum that occurs when the spectral energy density is small.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.26 no.6
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• pp.397-404
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• 2014

In Korea, harbor tranquility is generally estimated by using both methods of investigating harbor calmness under abnormal wave condition and evaluating the harbor serviceability. The efficiency of the former method is questionable as the tranquility of a harbor is judged by a wave height criterion that is arbitrarily determined without rational basis. In case of the latter method, the utilization rate of a harbor is estimated by using the exceedance probability of wave height or the distribution of wave heights and periods that is obtained from longterm measured or hindcasted wave data. Use of long-term data is desirable in order to guarantee the accuracy of the exceedance probability. Meanwhile, the criterion for determining maximum allowable wave height for cargo handling works is too simple and has limitations for being used in an actual field condition. Problems of existing method for estimating harbor tranquility were verified by the wave observation data in Busan New Port. And the importance of the field observation data was emphasized. It is necessary to perform long-term wave monitoring inside and outside of major ports in Korea in order to establish more advanced standard for evaluating harbor tranquility based on such observed wave data.

• Ocean and Polar Research
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• v.29 no.1
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• pp.9-31
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• 2007

Most seismic sea waves in the East Sea originate from earthquakes occurring near the Japanese west coast. While the waves propagate in the East Sea, they are deformed by refraction, diffraction and scattering. Though the Boussinesq equation is most applicable for such wave phenomena, it was not used in numerical modelling of seismic sea waves in the East Sea. To examine characteristics of seismic sea waves in the East Sea, numerical models based on the Boussinesq equation are established and used to simulate recent tsunamis. By considering Ursell parameter and Kajiura parameter, it is proved that Boussinesq equation is a proper equation for seismic sea waves in the East Sea. Two models based on the Boussinesq equation and linear wave equation are executed with the same initial conditions and grid size ($1min{\times}1min$), and the results are compared in various respects. The Boussinesq equation model produced better results than the linear model in respect to wave propagation and concentration of wave energy. It is also certified that the Boussinesq equation model can be used for operational purpose if it is optimized. Another Boussinesq equation model whose grid size is $40sec{\times}30sec$ is set up to simulate the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis. As the result of simulation, new propagation charts of 2 seismic sea waves focused on the Korean east coast are proposed. Even though the 1983 and 1993 tsunamis started at different areas, the propagation paths near the Korean east coast are similar and they can be distinguished into 4 paths. Among these, total energy and propagating time of the waves passing over North Korea Plateau(NKP) and South Korea Plateau(SKP) determine wave height at the Korean east coast. In case of the 1993 tsunami, the wave passing over NKP has more energy than the wave over SKP. In case of the 1983 tsunami, the huge energy of the wave passing over SKP brought about great maximum wave heights at Mukho and Imwon. The Boussinesq equation model established in this study is more useful for simulation of seismic sea waves near the Korean east coast than it is the Japanese coast. To improve understanding of seismic sea waves in shallow water, a coastal area model based on the Boussinesq equation is also required.

• Journal of Korean Society of Disaster and Security
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.19-31
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• 2023

According to the climate change scenarios, the intensity of typhoons, a major factor in Korea's natural disaster, is expected to increase. The increase in typhoon intensity leads to a rise in wave heights, which is likely to cause large-scale disasters in coastal regions with high populations and building density for dwelling, industry, and tourism. This study, therefore, analyzed observation data of the Donghae ocean data buoy and conducted a numerical model simulation for wave estimations for the typhoon MAYSAK (202009) period, which showed the maximum significant wave height. The boundary conditions for wave simulations were a JMA-MSM wind field and a wind field applying the typhoon central pressure reduction rate in the SSP5-8.5 climate change scenario. As a result of the wave simulations, the wave height in front of the breakwater at Sokcho port was increased by 15.27% from 4.06 m to 4.68 m in the SSP5-8.5 scenario. Furthermore, the return period at the location of 147-2 grid point of deep-sea design wave was calculated to increase at least twice, it is necessary to improve the deep-sea design wave of return period of 50-year, which is prescriptively applied when designing coastal structures.

• Proceedings of the Korea Water Resources Association Conference
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• 2022.05a
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• pp.268-268
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• 2022

지진해일은 발생빈도는 높지 않지만, 한 번 발생하게 되면 막대한 피해를 일으킬 수 있다. 우리나라에서는 1,900년대 4건의 지진해일이 기록되었으며, 이로 인해 동해안 및 남해안 등에 인명피해 및 재산피해가 발생하였다. 또한 2011년 동일본 지진해일로 인해 후쿠시마 원자력 발전소 변전설비가 침수됨에 따라 냉각수 공급이 중단되고 방화벽이 파괴되어 방사능이 누출되어 큰 피해로 연결되었다. 이러한 피해를 저감하기 위해 지진해일 수치해석과 확률론적 분석방법 등 다양한 방법을 활용한 연구가 국내외 적으로 활발히 수행되고 있다. 본 연구는 확률분포기반 지진해일고 예측모델 개발을 위해 수치해석을 수행하여 지진해일고(tsunami heights)를 산출하고 결과값에 대한 적절한 확률분포 분석을 실시하는 것이다. 지진해일고는 원자력발전소에서 취수구를 통한 냉각수 공급가능 여부를 판단하기 위해 최대 지진해일고(maximum tsunami height)와 최저 지진해일고(minimum tsunami height)로 구분하였다. 지진해일 수치해석은 지진원(단층매개변수) 조사, 조사된 지진원 중 지진해일 수치해석 case 선정을 위한 파향선추적기법(wave ray tracing) 수행, 선정된 지진원에 대해 로직트리(logic tree) 기법 적용, 로직트리를 적용한 지진원 case에 대한 수치해석 순서로 수행하였다. 수치해석을 통해 산출된 최대 및 최저 지진해일고 자료를 기반으로 확률분포형을 선정하기 위하여 확률분포별 적합성 평가를 실시하였다. 선정된 분포를 기준으로 처오름 및 처내림높이와 관련된 다양한 변수간의 의존관계를 파악하였다. 향후, 파악된 의존관계를 기반으로 예측모델을 개발하여 수치해석 결과와 연계함으로써 국내에 적용할 수 있는 확률론적 지진해일재해도를 제시할 수 있을 것으로 판단된다.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.1-7
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• 2002

In the past, safety assessment on the site of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plants against tsunamis was carried out with probable maximum earthquake magnitude and related tsunamigenic fault parameters. Recently, however, based on the seismic gap theory, some seismologists warned about earthquakes of larger magnitudes than had been expected. In this study, we revaluated tsunami risk with a finite difference model based on linear and nonlinear shallow water equations. Firstly, we simulated the\`83 tsunami and compared the calculated water surface profile with the observed wave heights. Secondly, we evaluated the rise and drop of sea water level at the site of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plant with fault parameters of the past '83, '93 tsunamis and some dangerous faults. Finally, we showed that the cooling water intake facility of Ulchin Nuclear Power Plants would be safely operated in disastrous tsunamis.

• Journal of Korean Society of Coastal and Ocean Engineers
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• v.16 no.3
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• pp.142-151
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• 2004

A method for the determination of concrete armor unit weights with hydraulic stability and structural stability may be formulated in this paper. The hydraulic stability is analyzed by using Hudson's formula, the structural stability is also studied by evaluation of maximum flexural tensile stresses in armor unit induced by the impact loads and by comparison of those with the tensile resistance strength directly. The applicable criteria for concrete armor units can be represented as a function of design wave heights with return period, armor weights, and tensile strengths for the practical uses. In addition, reliability analyses for two failure modes are carried out to take into account some uncertainties. Finally, a series system for two-failure mode analysis can be made up straightforwardly, by which the optimal weights of armor units can be estimated with the various relative breakages, given the specific target probability of failure under the concepts of reliability-based design method.