• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.997-1005
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to measure the sensibility and preference of American consumers for domestically-manufactured cotton fabrics through 7-points scale questionnaires and the 4-dimensions and 8-axes system. The key words included such images as masculine-feminine, new-old, casual-classic, and ambiguous-orderly. The images of cotton fabrics were classified through a cluster analysis. This research also included an investigation of relationship between sensibilities for cotton fabrics and their physical characteristics. The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were classified into 4 groups: 'feminine sensibility,' 'masculine sensibility,' 'new sensibility,' and 'casual sensibility.' This result represents that American consumers' sensibility is simpler than Koreans'. The order of preference was 'feminine sensibility', 'masculine sensibility', 'new sensibility', and 'casual sensibility.' The sensibilities of cotton fabrics were explained significantly by stiffness, weight, weft density, value, and chroma. Specifically, those were more influenced by color characteristics such as value, chroma, and hue than by physical characteristics. We should be able to tell a difference in the reaction of a trading country's consumers and domestic consumers to domestically-manufactured cotton fabrics through comparing this research with the previous work(Shin & Lee, 2002). Additionally, we will be able to establish a basic strategy for successfully advancing Korean fabrics into the American domestic textile industry. In this way we can expect to increase the competitive power of our domestic clothes brands.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.696-704
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• 2003

The main purpose of this study is to examine the gay men's clothing attitude and preference according to gender role, for reviewing their clothing culture. Specifically, this study focuses on 1) investigating gay men's clothing attitude(brand orientation, conformity, fashion leadership, sexual attractiveness), 2) identifying their clothing preference, 3) comparing the difference of lifestyle, and 4) comparing the difference of their preference color and wearing the accessary, according to their gender role. Futhermore, this study compares those factors between gay men and heterosexual men. The data was collected from 168 persons(76 gay men and 92 heterosexual men) in LGHRF(Lesbian & Gay Human Rights Federation), Korea Gaymen's Coalition and adult men living in Seoul. To analyze data, the methodology adopted in this study is frequency, t-test, and ANOVA. The results found in this study are as followings: First, sexual attractiveness was significant factor for the gay men's clothing attitude and not concern about conformity. According to the gender role, bottom, who have much of the woman in composition, was more higher for the fashion leadership than top, who have a propensity for masculine. Second, gay men prefer to masculine, simple and casual style. According to the gender role, 'top' was more likely to masculine, simple and formal style rather than 'Bottom'. Third, Gay men were much more concern about a cultural life style. Furthermore, a preference color for both group was blue. Especially, gay men tended to prefer a chromatic color. The implication getting from conclusion in this study was to study Gay men's taste for a fashion, clothing attitude and their preference to purchase, etc., in considering their buying power for clothing in a fashion market.

• 영어영문학
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• 제56권5호
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• pp.931-946
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• 2010

This paper examines the role of gender ideology in early British and American detective fiction focusing on the female detectives. Since a detective's attributes honor and idealize such traditionally masculine qualities as independence, intelligence, heroism, and bravery, the woman detective fiction has potentiality to operate against the established gender norms. The narratives about women in pursuit of justice and order through their criminal investigation can allow women to possess the masculine rationality and power. The subversive possibility inherent in the woman detective fiction is, however, contained by the representation of the female detectives and the negotiation through narratives. A female detective is represented either as unfeminine and thus unattractive and unlikeable or as desperate for survival. Her threatening potentiality is easily dismissed as that of an inadequate woman or a desperate one. The compromise in narratives is effected by the following three ways: first, a female detective is assigned to investigate crimes as an assistant to the male detectives; second, staying within the domestic sphere, she solves crimes by using her expert knowledge of the domestic service; and third, her detective narrative ends with the conventional marriage plot. Confining the female detectives within the conventional feminine roles and domains, the woman detective fiction supports and reestablishes the dominant gender ideology.

• 한국콘텐츠학회논문지
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• 제22권6호
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• pp.453-466
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• 2022

본 연구는 한국 성인 남성의 심리적 디스트레스에 있어서 성역할이 어떠한 역할을 하는지 살펴보고자 하였다. 구체적으로, 다차원적인 남성 규범에 대한 순응이 성역할 갈등을 매개로 하여 심리적 디스트레스를 예측하는지 검증하였다. 이를 위해 만 19~39세의 남성 참여자 358명을 대상으로 남성 규범 척도, 남성 성역할 갈등척도 그리고 일반정신건강 척도를 사용하여 본 연구를 시행했다. 연구 결과, 남성 규범의 하위 요인에 따라 남성 성역할 갈등을 매개로 하여 심리적 디스트레스에 미치는 영향이 상이함을 알 수 있었다. 남성 규범의 하위 요인인 '힘과 통제'와 '직업과 자립', '정서 억제'는 각각 성역할 갈등의 하위요인인 '여성성에 대한 공포'를 매개로 하여 심리적 디스트레스를 정적으로 예측하였다. 한편 남성 규범 중 '남성 리더십'과 '가족 부양자'는 심리적 디스트레스에 대한 부적인 직접 효과를 가졌으며, 성역할 갈등을 매개로 한 간접 효과는 유의미하지 않았다. 본 연구 결과는 남성 규범의 하위 요인이 심리적 디스트레스에 대해 각기 다른 기능을 가지며, 특히 성역할 갈등 중 여성성에 대한 부정적 정서를 야기함으로써 남성 규범의 역기능적 역할이 나타날 수 있다는 것을 시사한다.

• 복식
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• 제60권2호
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• pp.81-98
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• 2010

This study aims to examine the subjects of cultural power of the modernism and post modernism eras, and analyze how the change of power and subjects influenced fashion throughout the history from the microscopic perspective, and thus to explain the social relationship of the fashion phenomenon. The study findings can be summarized as follows. First, as the post modernism era which was being formed centering around Europe that was pursuing Haute Couture and formal masculine suits ended and the post modernism era started, America became the center of the world power, and the American equalitarianism and growing wealth among the general public spread over the world, and as a result, the ready-made clothes were propagated over the world, and various subcultures came to have multi-national tendency in the New Media society. Second, in the modernism era, the high class, whites, males, and the pre-existing powerful class were the subjects of cultural power. Although this changed in the post modernism era, as some of power moved from the high class to the middle class, the economically affluent general public, still the western world, males, and whites held the center of power. However, later, females, youths, the third world nations, and so on emerged as minor power, and when the New Media society started, the structure developed so that everyone can share cultural power.

• 수완나부미
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• 제5권2호
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• pp.81-99
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• 2013

Đoạn tuyệt is the representative of not only Nhất Linh's literary life but also of the Tự Lực Văn Đoàn [Self-Strength Literary Group]. Đoạn tuyệt's contributions are emphasized in the following aspects: 1) critique of the feudal family model, 2) an advocate of female and individual liberation, 3) nationalistic content, though rather vague. Based on analysis of gender power relations in the masculinization of femininity exemplified in the character Loan of the novel, this paper addresses the following points: - In Đoạn tuyệt, the woman is eager to free herself from feudalist ties not to construct her own identity but to identify her with men's identities. - The construction of new feminine identities was conditioned in new rising discourses of Western modernity-based nationalisms in pre-revolutionary Vietnam. - The feminization of masculinity echoes the crisis of Vietnamese masculine in facing colonial power.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제10권1호
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• pp.67-79
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• 2010

Cultural sensation by appearance of Elvis Aaron Presley is thought to have been greatly influenced by spread of popular culture beginning to form with the development of mess media in USA that was changed rapidly after the war, changing aspect of popular music in U.S.A through the media development and teenager culture of USA that has rapidly emerged. Elvis intended to change into 'music to be seen' deviating from 'music to be simply listened to' with expressing the conversion of sexual consciousness, defiance to older generation and a sense of value on wealth, and the like, and also suggested a new culture and style to the young people at that time. Flow of Elvis's fashion may be categorized into the classifications such as the fashion in the period. First, Formative period(before 1954) distinguished by pimp look and sideburns with tough image and wild clothes. Second, Establishment period(1954-57) may be categorized into the hot rockabilly style which showed a glittering fashion by brilliant and colorful costumes, the cool rockabilly style which changed him to a fashionable star of modem image(1958-60). Third, re-heyday(after 1968) where a brilliant and bold decoration was displayed. In Elvis fashion, the masculine sensualism, defiance to main value and expression of luxury and consuming culture, etc. are included as a unique aesthetic consciousness. 'Expression of masculine sensualism' represented the sensualism through sexual objectification of men's body by men's sexual ostentation which was prohibited. 'Defiance to main value' means that attempts of non-mainstream image for social class are expressed with an exercise of power by young people through the public. Although the Elvis look has fanned an anti-culture, it was expressed and accepted as having a normally capitalistic appearance. In addition, it being thought of as the standard, symbolizing a success and a wealth through the presentation of image which accepted this material benefit, we may classify this into 'expression of luxury and consuming culture'.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제20권1호
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• pp.157-172
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• 2016

The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the transitional aspects of the power shoulders with a comparative analysis of the patterns observed from the late 20th century to the present. The method of study was through review of papers as well as phenomenological approaches. Books, domestic and international journals, and dissertations were studied as part of the paper review. Phenomenological study was performed by analyzing the pictures from late 20th to present; and categorized by 10 year time span i. e., 1980-1990, and 2002-2012. Hundred representative fashion photos were selected, respectively. As a result, the power shoulder found in late 20 centuries was largely limited to horizontal and diagonal shape, addressed mainly to the jackets; while they were straight, and wide shouldered, with emphasis on masculine style. On the other hand, in early 21 century, the power shoulder was applied in various forms of straight, diagonal, circular and ornamental with objects, not only to the jackets, but also to feminine styles such as one-piece dress, vest, and blouse. This finding may be attributed to the fact that the modern people desire newer trends and women tend to show off their ability in transcending those of men. The findings of analysis of the transitional aspects of power shoulder in this thesis might contribute as basic resources for anticipating the trends that might be revived in the future.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• 제5권1호
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• pp.26-41
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• 2005

In this study homosexuality as a discourse represented in contemporary fashion magazines is explored in context. The main concerns are the contemporary construction of homosexuality, fashion symbols to identify homosexuals, and relationships between homosexuality and heterosexual masculinity in fashion images today. After elaborating homosexuality conceptualized historically, an analytical framework from Foucault's discursive approach was made up to interpret the fashion spreads since 2000. As a result, as it is assumed that the concept of homosexuality is constructed by historical specificity, homosexual fashion styles are dynamic. So, it should be recognized that they are formed by power relationships with heterosexuality, and other social factors such as class, race, age, and consumer culture and market trends. On the basis of photographic themes and fashion looks homosexual images are classified into 3 kinds of versions, the effeminate trend setter, the masculine athlete or biker, and the neo camp. However, most of contemporary homosexual photographs are not also so conspicuously different from heterosexual ones. Therefore, in the contemporary structure at least from fashion images, homosexuals can be recognized equally with heterosexual people only except for sexual preference. Thus, homosexual fashion also shares a lot of fashionable products with heterosexual one, with often homosexuals' role as trend -setter.

• 영어영문학
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• 제54권4호
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• pp.579-597
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• 2008

This article discusses David Henry Hwang's M. Butterfly as a suggestive text for examining Western masculinity in crisis in the post-imperialist age, in which territorial imperialism is no longer valid. Previous scholarship on M. Butterfly has centered around the interlocking dynamics of imperialism, racism and sexism. Such critical attentions focus on how Hwang deconstructs racialized significations of the East and the West. In these discussions, the issue of gender is often addressed merely as a trope to represent the power relations between the East and the West. As such, gender as well as sexuality is highlighted as the very source of subversion of the power relations. My discussion departs from a critique of the gendered trope of the East and the West, highlighting a postmodern agent, the allegedly feminized character Song Lining: a Chinese actor who passes for a woman for political purposes in postcolonial China. Remaining an "inappropriate/d other" in the gendered imperialist discourse, Song becomes an emergent subject, who is capable of playing gender ambiguity for reclaiming a devalued identity, that of homosexual Asian man. Discussing how the central character Rene Gallimard's masculine identity is constructed in a cross-cultural space and how it evolves, I also argue that Gallimard's melancholic death signifies a historical unsustainability of imperialist masculinity in the postmodern/postcolonial age since World War II.