• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.712-727
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• 2014

Dahoejangs in the Joseon Dynasty were craftsmen who belonged in the Gyeonggongjang in Hansung government office. Out of 2,841 craftsmen who specialized in 129 types of work, 1 of them were Dahoejangs. Dahoejangs were craftsmen who made cords. However it was not passed down and currently Maedeupjangs are making cords and making Maedeup with the cords they have made. In the Uigwes the composition of Dahoejangs number and types of tools used in creating good for ceremonies are indicated. This study has found records of Dahoejangs from 50 Uigwes. The tools used were indicated as Haesagee, Hapsagee, Hapseongee, Yeonsagee, Sangsagee, Dahoegee, Yungjapan and some others. Haesagee is a tool that winds thread from a skein to a spool. Hapsagee is a tool that combines more than two yarns together. Hapseon is for combining thicker threads. Yeosagee is not a process of scouring for refining, but is assumed to be a tool to twisting yarn. There are no information left about the shape or working methods of Sangsagee but it is considered to be a tool for doubling several threads together. Based on the existing artifacts and painting of Dahoe, it is assumed that threads were woven on usually a round plate or bowl. Youngjapan is considered to be a tool for making tassels. This shows that Dahoejangs made tassels and it was completely separate from making Maedeups. There, it is evident that Dahoejangs made cords as well as tassels but the work of Maedeupjang were constricted to only making Maedeup with the cords given to them.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.10
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• pp.1-15
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• 2010

A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.443-452
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• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.4
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• pp.1-13
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.52-67
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• 2021

This study is an attempt to explore the roles of and the collaborative relationship between Daheojang and Maedeupjang. Daheojang and Maedeupjang share a similar manufacturing process. However, in modern times, Daheojang totally disappeared, and Maedeupjang was designated as an intangible cultural property. The present study will investigate the role of Daheojang and Maedeupjang based on the literature of the Joseon dynasty. Daheojang were craftsmen who made bands and strings of woven or twisted silk strands. They made mangsu and tassels or made knots to produce magnificent artifacts. Maedeupjang complete all steps of the process, from refining, dyeing, combining threads, daheo, maedeup, to the tassel. Daheojang in the Joseon dynasty was the center of this process. Daheojang belonged to almost all Uigwe because it used items ranging from large uso to cushion straps. Dahoe is a craft with various items and techniques. It has been widely used to produce majestic items like formal dresses, ritual ceremony pieces, and mountings, as well as daily items like jodae, pocket straps, and norigae. Based on the records of Uigwe in the late Joseon dynasty, the study explored the collaborative relationship between Daheojang and Maedeupjang. Sambang, the room where both Daheojang and Maedeupjang belong, was the room to produce the royal chair. The royal chair essentially includes large uso. The large uso is an artifact that ties a knot in a thick circle more than two meters long. While Daheojang made rounded daheo, Maedeupjang made delicate and balanced knots. Also, they produced royal inscriptions together with a royal seal with decorative mangsu and a seal of thick rounded daheo. In order to learn about traditional technology, it is necessary to study the system of the times and social trends. Therefore, the study focused on Daheojang, who were common master craftsmen during the Joseon dynasty but now are not familiar to most people.