• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.17
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• pp.209-219
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• 1991

The purpose of this study was to identify the constructive principle and techniques of Vionnet's works. According to analysis of Vionnets works, it was found that Vionnet conceived of the human body as a continuous shaping of a cylinder. Vionnet's drapery denied the planner presumption of woman and gave real three-dimension to form and to fashion. The techniques of Vionnet's works were as fallow : (1) She introduced the diogonal "bias cut" and changed dress design by her sensuous use of fabrics. (2) She eliminated interfacing to keep the silhouette and the fabric soft. (3) She manipulated the fabric to remove the excess for fit and decoration at the same time. (4) She treated the fabric with a synthesis of geometry and grace. (5) The sale luxury allowed was to note the choice of seams, facings, hems, and stitches. (6) Vionnet's dresses were not lined.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.947-959
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• 2009

This study aims to analyze contemporary women's sense of fashion aesthetic by looking into the design and trend of T-panties, which have now carved out a new niche in the world's 21st century female underwear markets. By this, I'd like to reassure readers of the importance of T-panties, which has only been recently recognized, and more generally suggests the future direction of prominent T-panty design development. First, western urban chic, Japanese minimalism and domestic modern feminine images all have common modern urban sense and simple designs. However, each image is not a simple image in itself. For example, in the case of western style they often seek to convey a sophisticated and stylish street sense, while Koreans add a more cute, lovely, and feminine touch. Second, western restrained eroticism, Japanese fetishism and domestic mono-bosom images all have a common interest in sex. They is something, however, which they all express this differently. In Japan, they prefer a stimulating image. In the West, however, this is restrained by controlling and limiting overt sexual elements, while in Korea, we seek to capture a more simple sensual beauty. Third, western couture luxury, Japanese orientalism and Korean utopia narcissism have classy images in common including splendid materials and decorations with embroidery. They all differ depending on their nationality. This study is baseds on the documents study. This study is baseds on the documents study.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.13 no.1
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• pp.23-34
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to better understand the development and characteristics of knitwear fashion design by examining the transformation process of the modern knits. The subjects of the study are Missoni, Sonia Rykiel, and Azzedine Alaia, designers who are world-renowned knit designers, and the expressive techniques in their designs will be evaluated. The study also intends to analyze the aesthetic value of each designer's style through their product's silhouette, colors, and knitting techniques. On the basis of the analysis, we hope to research the factors in the designing process that will allow knits, which were made for practical purposes, to be valued as a luxury fashion item, and with the results, show the potential for knits in expanding its domain in fashion to become a more luxurious, creative fashion item. The characteristic comparison of the designers is as follows: First, in the case of colors, Missoni shows its distinct identity through a balance of splashy colors as well as nature-inspired color composition and balance. And, only with color use, is also able to express perspective, form composition, and rhythm. Sonia Rykiel designs are composed of black backgrounds with strong primary colors that are contrasted with one-point or stripes to express a light, urban image. Alaia emphasizes femininity by the use of black and white colors, which show modernity, in combination with neutral skin-toned colors, such as beige and gray. So, in other words, Missoni and Sonia Rykiel mixed colors for visual interconnectivity, while Alaia expressed femininity through the use of an achromatic color. Second, in the case of knitting techniques, Missoni uses the jacquard technique to make complex patterns that show balance of colors and patterns such as zigzag, stripe, geometries, and titan check, which are geometric, abstract, and symmetric. Sonia Rykiel who uses stripes as her trademark, most often utilizes the intarsia technique, which is expressed through one-point. Alaia combines diverse techniques, such as the Skashi weaving, by using computerized knitting. Third, as for silhouettes, Missoni eliminated exaggerated details in order to emphasize the flashy colors and delicate patterns and weavings of its designs, and this resulted in simplistic and relaxed silhouettes. Sonia Rykiel took advantage of the elasticity that the knit offers to get a tight silhouette, and in turn, emphasized the female sensuality. Alaia used curvilinear cuts that emphasized the womanly curves and gained an image considered soft and feminine.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.811-825
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• 2012

The purpose of this study was to identify imported apparel selection behavior according to Mongol women's conspicuous consumption orientation. A self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection. First, factors of conspicuous consumption orientation were high price and luxury brand, fashion style, altruism, prestige, and brand. Mongol women were segmented into the price and prestige pursuit group, the fashion and brand pursuit group, the altruism pursuit group, and the conspicuous consumption retard group. Second, factors of motivating the selection of imported apparel were value, symbolism, and aesthetics, and Mongol women considered the aesthetics of imported apparel important. Married Mongol women in their 30's chose imported apparel because of its symbolism. More married women selected imported apparel because of its value and more educated women selected imported apparel because of its aesthetics. Women with higher apparel expenditure selected imported apparel because of its value and symbolism. Quality, diversity, and the fit of imported apparel were the selection criteria for Mongol women and they were satisfied with the quality, diversity, and fit of the imported apparel. Brand awareness was very important when selecting imported apparel but the women's satisfaction level was significantly low. Third, more women in their 30's, unmarried, or with a lower educational level were found in the price and the prestige pursuit group, and the price and prestige pursuit group and the altruism pursuit group selected imported apparel for its aesthetics. More unmarried women in their 30's with a higher educational level were found in the fashion and brand pursuit group and selected imported apparel for its value, symbolism, and aesthetics. More unmarried women in their 20's with a higher educational level were found in the altruism pursuit group, but unmarried women in their 20's with a lower educational level were found in the conspicuous consumption retard group.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.8
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• pp.958-968
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to clarify the different mechanical properties of fabrics among the theme groups classified by fashion fabric trend. This study can be useful for fabric marketers and planners to design new products. In order to carry out this study, the fabric samples of representative theme for‘2002/03 F/W fashion fabric trend were collected from a fashion company and were measured to analyze the mechanical properties, hand value(H.V) and total hand value(T.H.V) by KES-FB System. The results were as follows. 1. The theme-A of‘Luxury, Elegance’was consisted of wool, rayon and PET and had a lower B, 2HB of bending properties and a lower G and 2HG5 of shear properties. The theme-B of‘Technical, Functional’was consisted of synthetic fibers such as PET, PA, PU and elastic fiber and had a higher MIU and a lower MMD, SMD of surface properties. The theme-C of‘Vintage, Aged’was consisted of mostly cotton and had the highest B and 2HB. The theme-D of‘Fancy, Airy’was consisted of mostly woolen wool, polyacryl and polyamide and had a high MMD and SMD of surface properties and a high LC and RC of compression properties. 2. As the results of analyzing H.V and T.H.V through KES-FB system, the theme-A showed a higher Smoothness and lower Stiffness. The theme-B had a lower Smoothness, Fullness, Soft feeling and T.H.V and the theme-C had the highest Stiffness. The theme-D showed the highest Fullness and Soft Feeling but the lowest Stiffness.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.787-798
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• 2004

This research was designed to compare clothing fabric images between on- and off-line by fabric types and its characteristics. 125 subjects who have a fashion design major evaluated the fabric image of various 16 kinds of specimens on- and off-line. Frequency, x2-test, t-test, and Pearson correlation were used for statistical analysis by SPSS WIN 11.0. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The advantage of on-line shopping includes low price and purchasing convenience, etc. On-line shoppers mostly purchase clothing items, such as T-shirt and slacks. In most cases, texture of fabrics provides a main cause for the shoppers' discontentment with internet shopping. 2. The results of t-test for the difference of the evaluation score show that plain or pile weave and highly thick or thin fabrics-for example, Organdy, Corduroy, Nylon Taffeta, Plush, etc.-have a large difference between on-and off-line image. On the other hand, medium-thick twill weave-for example, Tweed, Flannel, etc.-or patterned weave-Chiffon, Dobby fabric, etc.-shows a small difference. 3. The results of correlation of the evaluation score indicate that wool twill fabrics like Tweed, Saxony, and Polafleece show a high correlation between two kinds of evaluation score. In texture preference, no correlation exists between on-line and off-line. 4. With an analysis on fabric image evaluation by fabric characteristics, smooth, shiny pink Satin was found the most positively-evaluated item in all evaluation fields except in pattern preference and individuality. On the other hand, thick olive green Corduroy was evaluated most negatively in the fields of elegance, luxury, and feminine. 5. When compared with real ones, thin fabrics provide a different on-line fabric image. For example, Nylon Taffeta and Organdy were evaluated positively on-line because of luster and pastel tone color. However, lusterless uneven cotton Seersucker was evaluated negatively. 6. Real fabrics preference is more negative than on-line ones. In addition, patterned or unique fabrics display a high agreement between the two kinds of images.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.205-215
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to identity the relationship of clothing involvement, consumer characteristics, and clothing buying behavior of college female students in China. A questionnaire was developed to measure clothing involvement, materialism, conspicuous consumption, reference group influence, clothing purchasing modes, fashion information sources. The questionnaire was administered to 390 college female students in Dandong of china. The data were analyzed using percentage, frequency, factor analysis, and t-test. The results of the study were as follows: 1. Subjects were divided into low clothing involved and high clothing involved groups according to the level of clothing involvement. 2. Three dimensions of materialism were derived by factor analysis such as Happiness-pursuing, Life-centered, and Sucess-symbolic. And three dimensions of conspicuous consumption and reference group influence were derived by factor analysis such as luxury oriented, Status symbolic, Brand-name oriented, and Comparative, Informational, Normative exactly. Clothing purchasing motives and fashion information sources were factor analysed as Social and Individual mole, and Printed & Electric-wave media, Marketer managed, Personal exactly. 3. There were significant differences between high involved and low involved consumers in consumer characteristics and clothing purchasing behavior. The high involved consumers showed more importance than low involved consumers about materialism especially in Happiness-pursuing about conspicuous consumption in status symbolic and about influence of reference group in comparative. The high involved consumers put more importance than low involved consumer individual motive as clothing purchasing motive, and marketer managed in clothing fashion information. The high invoked consumers showed more importance than low invoked consumers about evaluating attributes of product, and about store patronage criterion.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.39 no.3
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• pp.433-445
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• 2015

This study examines factors that influence consumer behavior regarding the usage intentions and repurchasing behavior of counterfeits. Based on the Theory of Planned Behavior by Ajzen (1991), this study looks at the impact of attitude, subjective norm, perceived behavioral control, as well as the moral norm of consumers about intentions to use and repurchase counterfeits. An online survey was conducted on males and females over the age of 20 with previous experiences of purchasing counterfeits; subsequently, 209 responses were collected and analyzed. The covariance structure model was used to analyze the data in order to measure the factors that influence the usage of counterfeits and repurchasing behavior. The results show that attitude, subjective norm, and perceived behavioral control have significantly positive effects on usage intentions, while moral norm has a significantly negative effect on usage intentions. Usage intentions also have a significantly positive effect on repurchasing behavior and confirmed that usage intentions functions as the mediator. The variables that influence usage intentions are attitude, perceived behavioral control, moral norm, and subjective norm, in descending order. Consumer attitudes towards counterfeits is a major factor that influences usage intentions. Therefore, ethical problems should be emphasized to encourage a negative attitude towards counterfeits. This study identifies an important aspect to show that usage intentions toward counterfeits, and not purchasing intentions, influences repurchasing behavior. Findings are significant in that they reveal the role of the moral norm variable added to the TPB model.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.181-190
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• 2008

Active exploitation of experiential marketing is now practiced in diverse range of apparel brands such as luxury, sports and casual brands. Under such a market environments, this study attempts to verify the effects of consumer's experiential marketing perception by analyzing the formation process of brand attitude. The path from experiential marketing strategic modules (sense, feel, think, act, and relate) to brand loyalty is mediated by brand affect and brand trust. Two sports brands were selected as stimuli brands, and a survey was conducted on 286 consumers in their 20s and 30s. The study validates the importance of sense/feel marketing for apparel brands as it had extensive effects on brand affect which is highly significant in the formation of brand loyalty. As a result of comparative analysis of brand attitude and the path model of its formation for two brands which were different in consumers' perception of experiential marketing brand activities, the study realized that the higher the level of perceived experiential marketing, the higher the levels of brand affect, brand trust and brand loyalty. In particular, for brands perceived as actively engaged in experiential marketing, the path from the perception of experiential marketing activity to brand loyalty was clearly segmented between sensibility and rationality as sense/feel marketing had significant effects only on brand affect, and act/relate marketing only on brand trust. This study verifies the positive effects of perceived experiential marketing activities of apparel brands on brand equity, and proposes the strategic appropriateness of experiential marketing that embeds sensibility and feeling appeals.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.29 no.6
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• pp.847-858
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to examine consumer purchasing behavior of the online shoppers particularly using online clothing shopping mall and to analyze the key factors of both satisfaction and dissatisfaction of their purchase and to compare the both group by lifestyle segmentation in order to provide the e-CRM strategies. Focus group interviews and survey were conducted in December, 2003 with 30 online shoppers who have an experience of online clothing purchasing. The data analysis included the content analysis, descriptive statistics, K-means and factor analysis. Key findings of the study were as follows: First, online shoppers spent average 3.5 hours on internet and usually purchased clothing while surfing the web. Second, consumers were satisfied with reasonable price and customized service but dissatisfied with delayed delivery, limited product availability in both size and color and return policy. Third, according to the lifestyle segmentation, online shoppers could be characterized as 'Luxurious', 'Trendy' and 'Prudent' 'Luxury-oriented consumers', who value fashion, diet and social activity, tended to purchase basic yet high quality products. However, 'Trend-oriented consumers', to whom fashion trend was most important, purchased various latest fashion products with reasonable price and showed generally positive response to emails sent by e-retailers. And lastly 'Prudence-oriented consumers', whose buying decision was based solely on practicality, appeared to be reluctant to purchase clothing online while seeking more credible information and competitive price. In conclusion, this study has its significance in that it helps promote relationships between customers and e-retailers by providing differentiated e-CRM strategies through each customer groups 'lifestyle segmentation and consumer purchasing behavior analysis.