• Title/Summary/Keyword: Luxurious mode

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The Effects of Kisaeng's Clothes on General Women's Fashion in the Late Choson Dynasty (조선후기 기여복식이 일반부녀자 복식에 미친 영향)

  • 김나형;김용서
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.39
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    • pp.113-123
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    • 1998
  • This study focuses on the effects of the clothes worn by kisaeng; courtesans trained in singing and dancing, on changes in female psychology as reflected in general women's fashions during the later years of the Chosun dynasty. During this period, the social order had broken down considerable, due in part to the introduction of Roman Catholicism, and in part to the actions of Sil-hak, who emphasized open-ness and practicality in the organization of social affairs. This freer social environment disrup-ted the established social hierarchies. The kisaeng were among the first to respond to the new social mores by adopting more colorful, sensual, and individualized fashions. Their social position allowed them to reflect the new aesthetics of the time right away. Those aesthetics seemed to lay great emphasis on the artistic effects of contrast. The kisaeng would adorn their heads with large Kache (an elaborate wig or hairdo typically reserved for use by women in full formal dress). In contrast to this conspicuous hairstyle, they typically wore very tight-fitting Jogori (short-cropped Korean traditional jackets for women) around their upper torsos. The long skirts emerging from beneath these short jackets would typically flare out dramatically, with the aid of petticoats. However, these skirts would be bound at the waist with a sash, increasing the sexual suggestiveness of the clothing by drawing at-tention to the hips, and by exposing the bottom frills of the petticoats, or the wide pantal-oons and other undergarments the kisaeng wore to add volume to their skirts. The relative freedom enjoyed by the kisaeng to experiment with new fashions was not widely shared by most women. This generated envy from women of the noble classes, who were more bound by convention, and restrained from adopting such a mode of dress. It also generated envy from women of the humble classes, who saw the kisaeng as working little for their wealth, and yet dressing every day in finery that the average women would only ever be able to afford on her wedding day. This envy directed at the relative freedom/wealth of the kisaeng by women who faced greater socioeconomic constraints was given cultural expression through the adoption of elements of the kisaeng's fashion in the fashions of both noblewomen and humble women in old korea. The luxurious Kache sported by the kisaeng had in fact been borrowed from the habitual attire of upper-class women. So to distinguish themeselves from the kisaeng, they began to abandon these elaborate hairstyles in favor of traditional ceremonial hoods (Nel-ul-a thin black women's hood) and coronets (Suegaechima). This supposed reaction to the abuse of the Kache by the kisaeng still remained influenced by the kisaeng still remained influence by the kisaeng, however, as these headdresses became adorned with many more jewels and decorations, in imitation of the kisaeng's adaptations of the coronet. At the same time, noblewomen began sporting the Jangwue ; a headdress previously worn only by kisaeng and lower class women, and lower class women were then permitted to wear the Kache at weddings. All women behan to wear shorter, tighter Jogori jackets, and to add volume to their skirts. They also attached frills to their under-garments in imitation of the kisaeng's exposed petticoats and pantaloons. The impact of kisaeng fashions was thus deep and widespread, and can be understood as an expression of women's longing for freedom from socioeconomic constraints in the late Chosun dynasty. This study adopts an interdisciplinary ap-proach to the understanding of historical changes in women's fashions. Such interdisciplinary work can greatly enrich the study of fashion, often narrowly focused on clothing morphology and broad generalizations about society. For this reason, specific dynamics of feminine psychology in the late Chosun dynasty were elaborated in this study, to provide a deeper under-standing of the changes in fashion underpinned by them. If more such detailed analyses are undertaken, a whole new understanding of changes in fashion can be generated, and perhaps a transformation of the field of fashion history can be ultimately achieved.

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A Study On Changes in Cheong-gye-cheon & in Media Discourse: Based on Media Discoruse During 1960s, 1980s, and 2005 in Each Period (청계천 공간의 변화와 시기별 미디어 담론 변화에 대한 일 사례 고찰: 조선일보의 1960년대, 1980년대, 2005년 담론을 중심으로)

  • Kim, Byung-Wook;Eom, Jeong-Yoon;Kim, Seung-Hyun
    • Korean journal of communication and information
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    • v.51
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    • pp.26-46
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    • 2010
  • This study interprets Cheong-gye-cheon restoration as a process of space production during expansion of capitalism, and performs discourse analysis in order to find out that how media discourse has been related to the production of Cheong-gye-cheon space in each period of historical changes. This paper is particularly concentrating on discovering regulation in discourse which connects people's experiences and perception towards certain ways in the relationship between newly producted space and media discourse. This paper construes the period of 1960s as a process which pre-modern bodies and facilities were changed into modern and urban 'daily life' by practicing a space which splitted in a concept of time efficiency. In 1980s, media represented the facilities which had been constructed at the Cheong-gye-cheon space as a 'disqualified facilities for a center of the city'. This is because, tertiary industries were emerged at the 'Gang-nam' in this period which widen the gap of finance between 'Gang-nam' and 'Gang-Buk'. The government wanted to redevelop this space in order to function accumulating capital efficiently. Therefore shop owners nearby Cheong-gye-cheon were forced to move out. The discourse, 'disqualified facilities for a center of the city', implicates this process. The media discourse in the 2000s produced the 'myth' through the 'signifier' such as artificially flowing water, fine scenery, historical but artificial structure and etc.. However, people can experience symbols of the artificial structures which leads people to the luxurious restaurants, coffee shops, and etc.. Naturally, the spectacles produced by media direct people to the homogeneous pattern of consume. This phenomena can be explained as a process which people practice, intentionally or non-intentionally, the capitalistic mode of production which changed from a period of production to a period of consumption.

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