• 한국의류학회지
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• 제26권11호
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• pp.1502-1513
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• 2002

The purpose of this study was to find relations between construction factors and adaptability on the 5 available raglan sleeve patterns through the drafting method. Also it was to suggest a functional sleeve pattern according to appearance and adaptability test. Three women in her twenties who have standard figure was selected as subjects. Raglan sleeves of 5 experimental clothes were rated by the appearance test and adaptability test. The major conclusions of this study are as follows. 1. The construction factors of the raglan sleeve are sleeve slant, sleeve cap height, biceps line, breast width. Bicep lines increased and sleeve cap height decreased as the sleeve slant decreased. The higher adaptability scores of raglan sleeves were, the lower sleeve slants were. 2. According to the appearance evaluation, B type was recorded the highest score 3. According to the adaptability scores, A type was recorded the highest score. In the pulled length of the waist-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern type. In the pulled length of the sleeve-line, A type was the lowest movements among the pattern types. Therefore A type was evaluated by the bort functional sleeve pattern type. Through the experiments, it was known that appearance and adaptability of the raglan sleeve patterns were effected by construction factor.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.130-139
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• 2009

This study was conducted to reproduce the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were collected and drawn to actual size. Nineteen Leg of Mutton Sleeve patterns of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were classified into three groups(S1~S3) by the pattern pieces and the bend of the lower part of the elbow line. The S1 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S1 was not bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S1 was smaller than S2 and S3. The S2 was one-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S2 was bent. The S2 pattern had typical characteristics of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve that the gathers volume of sleeve cap was large and the lower part of elbow line was tight. The S3 was two-piece sleeve pattern and the lower part of the elbow line of S3 was bent. The gathers volume of sleeve cap of S3 was similar with S2. The study patterns of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve which had the characteristics and the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve pattern of the ladies' costume of the 1890's were designed like for Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size through modifications based on the evaluation of dressing on two occasions. The study pattern of three groups of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve were evaluated to have the silhouette of the Leg of Mutton Sleeve of the 1890's and to fit Korean women of the twenties who have the standard body type and the average size with the sensory test.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제23권2호
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• pp.189-198
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• 2012

This study aim was to understand the effects of the change of the sleeve cap height on the sleeve cap line and the sleeve appearance by making nine different sleeve cap height patterns. When a subject sews the virtual and real garments with this, it provides data base through which she can make the suitable sleeve by conducting a comparative analysis of the appearance and cross-sectional diagram and grasping the relation between the sleeve cap line ease and the shape of the sleeve. As a result of the analysis of the image of 3D virtual garment, the shape of the armscye and the position of the bust line and sleeve baseline, the sleeve cap height and the sewing ease of the sleeve cap line affect on the shape of the sleeve and the armscye. Although the real garment is slightly different from the virtual garment they have shown similar tendency. Therefore, if the 3D virtual clothing system is used appropriately, it is possible to expect various study results in the apparel field without making real garments.

• 한국지역사회생활과학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.457-469
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• 2013

The purpose of this study is to quantitatively analyze the impacts of the distribution of easing contraction of the sleeve on the external appearance of bodice and sleeve through virtual clothing simulation. Virtual clothing is conducted by differentiating the sleeve easing in accordance with the experimental condition of bodice and sleeve that are followed by draping. And then the evaluation is carried out. As a result of an analysis of the similarity between the virtual garment and the actual clothing, the whole external appearance of the bodice and sleeve was expressed similarly. The external appearance according to the distribution of easing contraction got better as the easing contraction of sleeve was concentrated on sleeve cap in front while the appearance was better at the back as it was more gently distributed than in the front. In a comparison of armhole form, the clothing of which the top of it was most similar to S0 was S4 in which the gap between the armhole and the arm was the least and the front and rear silhouette fell relatively well. In a comparison between the position of bust circumference line and that of the sleeve base line, the front of the sleeve matched the bust circumference line as the easing contraction was distributed close to the center of the sleeve cap while in the back, the sleeve base line and the bust circumference line matched when some easing contraction ratio was added close to the armpit point. The cross section figures of garment space of the shoulder, the margin was evenly distributed in S4 or S5 with differing distributions of easing contraction in the front and the back. This study is significant in that it supplies the objective baseline data which makes a novice more able to make a good external appearance of the sleeve.

• 전기학회논문지P
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• 제60권4호
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• pp.206-213
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• 2011

Line sleeves, which used to connect ACSR cables when transmission lines were constructing, sometimes cause power transmission failure due to deterioration and corrosion. Therefore, power transmission line should be inspected regularly to prevent national disaster. Current inspection tool detects insertion length of transmission line on line sleeves, the inspection tool includes enormous error by operator. Moreover, the system is not controlled remotely, negligent accident would be caused while inspecting. To deal with those problems, KEPCO reviewed several ways to inspect line sleeves and proposes new method to inspect line sleeve by measuring magnetic flex which penetrate junction of steel and aluminum sleeve. The developed inspection tool is reliable enough to detect eccentric sleeves. Also, the developed inspection device was applied on actual transmission line and verified its effectiveness.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제24권3호
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• pp.51-58
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• 1986

This study is to investigate the Function of sleeve for the construction of cuffs. Three measuremental items of sleeve cap high, length of sleeve and puff quantity of upper sleeve cap are compared between when the experimental man raises righthand static pose. The wearing test is done in sewing cuffs of either fixing up cuffs or not-fixing up cuffs, and in no cuffs. Three measuremental items are pulled length from sleeve end, pulled length from side waist line, and pulled dimensions from waist line. 1. The result according to the length and dimensions variation caused by a change of sleeve cap high. 2. The results according to the length and dimensions variation caused by a sort of sleeve length. 3. The results according to the length and dimension variation caused by the puff quantity of sleeve cap.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제9권1호
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• pp.33-43
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• 2001

In this study, both kinds of materials, that is, leather and woolen fabrics, which have similar thickness, have been adopted. To determine proper length of ease, not only sleeve cap height but also sleeve width has been adjusted mainly based on 5cm length of the ease, which follows maximum sleeve cap height, and then different length of ease, for example, 4cm, 3cm, 2cm and 1cm of ease, have been made. As a result, eighteen kinds in total of sleeves have been made: In other words, each nine kinds of both leather and woolen fabrics have different ease lengths. In addition, each sleeve has been inspected visually and functionally. Following conclusion has been gotten based on outcome of the study: 1. Proper ease length for manufacture of leather garment is said to be 1∼2 cm. As a result, ease length with higher sleeve cap height shall be 1∼2cm, while the length with lower sleeve cap height shall be 1cm or less. 2. Wider sleeve width has better function. Considering relations with sleeve cap height, sleeve width shall exceed +4cm of bicep line. 3. to satisfy a variety of those conditions while manufacturing leather garment, sleeve cap height, which is used for the manufacture of full dress and street wear garment, To lessen the ease length, body A.H shall be relatively loose under the arms, or pad shall be supplemented on the shoulder, so that the difference had better be lessened to solve such problems.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권7호
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• pp.892-900
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• 1998

This study was done to analyze the surface development of upper arm for planning sleeve armhole line. The major conclusions of this study are: 1. The surface development by arm movements made the expansion and contraction of upper arm surface changes easily visible. Armhole lines of 90$^{\circ}$and 135$^{\circ}$~180$^{\circ}$movements deviated from those of standard posture. 2. According to regression analysis, armhole lines on the upper arm were adapted to sleeve patten, following the axillary circumference line changed to biceps line. Sleeve cap length ranged from armhole/4+2.5cm to armhole/4$\pm$0.5cm. 3. Compared to Rim's pattern method, ascending and descending amounts of armhole lines were represented as fixed values.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.145-157
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• 1993

This study aimes to investigate the garment ease of pe-school children's clothing in accordance with arm movement. The experiment was done with 4 per-school children fro mage 3 to age 5, and 3 types of experimental clothes were made ; sleeveless, half sleeve, and long sleeve. The waist pattern and the sleeve pattern of each experimental clothes has no garment ease. And experimental clothes were examined to obtain the necessary ease of armcye line and waist lien by cross-cut method. The results of investigation can be summarized as follows ; 1. The resulting movement ranges of experimental clothes with no garment ease were 131.5°(sleeveless), 71.75°(half sleeve), and 62.25°(long sleeve). 2. The size order of cross-cut opening of waist lien movement were (side>front>back), and (half sleeve>long sleeve>sleeveless). 3. When the base point of measurement was set to armpit point by arm the latitudinal length of cross-cut opening of armcye line by arm movement was (anterior armpit part > posterior armpit part), and longitudinal length of cross-cut opening was (upper part>lower part).

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제23권3호
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• pp.353-360
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• 1999

An investigation made of the variations of angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line and calculated easing contraction ratio by capheights(A ; a,h$\times$5,/6) B: A, H/4 +4cm C:A.H/3 D: A.H/ 4+3cm E:AH/4+2cm, F: A,H/4+1cm, G: A,H/4, H:A,H/6, I:A,H/8) and the efects of easing contraction on the cap curve lines of sleeve A, D, G by easing stitch density with the gathering foot: sewing condition-lockstitch industrial machine stitch density(N1.0 ; 38stitches/3cm N1.5: 26stitches/3cm, N2.0 ; 19stitches/3cm, N2.5 ; 14stitches/ 3cm) The results obtained were as follows; 1) The variations of the angle of bias on the top of the sleeve cap curve line by cap heights can be done according to the angle balance (front; $\alpha$-$\beta$ back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') between the angle (front ;$\alpha$, $\beta$, back ; $\alpha$'- $\beta$') of bias of the two base-lines. 2) The higher cap height the more higher the calculated easing contraction ratio. 3) The lower the stitch density the higher easing contraction ratio. 4) The effects of easing contraction was that sleeve G was more than sleeve A, D.