• Conservation Science in Museum
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• v.27
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• pp.39-56
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• 2022

The purpose of this project was to improve the stability of a pair of leather socks for use on snowy days in the collection of the National Museum of Korea (Namsan1567) by conducting conservation treatment and restoring the socks to their original form for use in research and exhibition. Leather socks are referred to in ancient documents with names combining the word "mal" for socks with a term indicating their material (e.g., pimal, meaning leather socks; nokpimal, meaning deer leather socks; jangpimal, meaning roe deer leather socks, or lipimal, meaning racoon dog leather socks) and are mentioned mostly in connection with Jeju Island. Related documents include the Seungjeongwon ilgi (Daily Record of the Grand Secretariat), Injaeilnok (Diary of Injae Jo Geukseon), and Hamel's Journal and a Description of the Kingdom of Joseon. Extant examples of ancient leather socks display the same form as beoseon (traditional Korean socks) and are made of either leather or a combination of leather and fabric. It is likely that such leather socks were worn on Jeju Island to protect the feet from the cold. A condition survey of the leather socks was first conducted to establish a plan for their conservation treatment. Since the socks were in rather poor condition, it was decided to identify their original form through an investigation of relics and pertinent previous studies. The socks were cleaned in consideration of results of the condition survey, and the missing parts around the necks of the socks were reinforced in a reversible manner using counting stitches with cloth dyed to match the original color. Since the bottoms of the socks had lost much of their original form due to deterioration and disintegration in the leather, supports were made and inserted inside the socks to help retain their shape. Through these processes, the structure and characteristics of the socks and the techniques used in their production could be analyzed, their condition was stabilized, and their original form was recovered.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.9
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• pp.114-128
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• 2008

The current study aims to classify types of traditional fur Garments in Jeju into Dusik(hat), dress, Jokui(socks) and accessaries, and examine characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of museums in Jeju. Dusik is a kind of hat for protection against the cold, and there are badger leather Gamtaes and cow hair Beonggeojis(fur hats). Especially leather gamtae was used to protect against the cold when people hunted roe deers in Mt. Halla. Beonggeoji was producted in the form of felt with fine hair collected coat-shedding of cows and dogs in spring, therefore it was too warm and practical to be damaged from storm or pressure. Fur coat is a general name of dress made of leather without hair. It is a kind of clothes with a hat worn while taking care of horses and cows. Also people wore dog leather topcoats and cow leather topcoats when they hunted in Mt. Halla. As for Jokui, there are leather Beoseon(socks) made of cow leather, leather shoes in the form of straw shoes, and leather Balle embracing the low half of the body warmly. Accessaries include a rectangular cow leather bag for storing an iron piece for making fire. These traditional fur robs in Jeju not only have practicality for protection against the cold, but also symbolized richness by using leathers of badgers, roe deers, etc. that were previous during that times. Also they used partially cut leather for decoration at the edge.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.187-206
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• 1996

The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.1
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• pp.46-60
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• 2015

This study analyzed the process of development and verification of standards through the competency analysis of fashion accessories products in the development of 'National Competency Standards'(NCS), which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. The NCS for fashion accessories production was developed through three Focus Group Interviews (FGIs) and fashion accessories production was defined as "the process of design, development and manufacture intended to produce items that improve the degree of completion of fashion products that are produced from textile fabric, knitted fabric, leather and other materials such as bags, belts, hats, gloves, scarves, neckties and socks with the exception of clothes". The competency unit for fashion accessories production was analyzed in 11 categories: development of design; development of materials; production of prototype samples; calculation of cost; determination of mass production model and price; planning of main manufacture process; ordering of materials; planning for mass production; preparation for mass production; mass production; and inspection of completed products, and the verification was carried out on development outcomes through a survey carried out of on-site personnel. This study recommends the following direction for future improvements based on an analysis of the development process of the NCS for fashion accessories production. First, future development of standards should first provide a rational category system for each area of fashion good production based on the production process, which should be followed by a detailed competency survey. Second, in order to ensure a more efficient verification survey, an expert for each competency unit should be designated for the develop standard to induce a more sincere response. Also the questionnaire should require supplementation in order to collect the various additional opinions of experts of the field. Finally, this study concludes that it is urgent to procure an education infrastructure and specialized professors in order to apply the competency standard for fashion accessories production to the education sector. This study also concludes that the government will be required to provide systematic and consistent support aimed at supplementing development and forming a firm collaborative working environment for the industry and academia in order to improve the current education environment and build a more field-oriented education environment.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.12 no.5
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• Korean Journal of Heritage: History & Science
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• v.54 no.2
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

Seojangdaeyajodo is a drawing of military night training on February 12th (lunar leap month), 1795. Focusing on the Seojangdaeyajodo, the characteristics and of the costumes worn by various types of officials were examined. There were 34 officials located near King Jeongjo in and around Seojangdae, with 27 Dangsanggwan and 7 Danghagwan. They wore three types of costumes, including armor, yungbok, and military uniforms. All of the twelve armor wearers and the five officials wearing yungbok were dangsanggwan, and the military uniform wearers included eleven dangsanggwan and six danghagwan. For the shape of the armor, the armor relics of General Yeoban, suitable for riding horses, and the armor painting of Muyedobotongji were referenced, and the composition of the armor was based on practicality. The armor consists of a helmet, a suit of armor, a neck guard, armpit guards, arm guards, and a crotch guard. The color of the armor was red and green, which are the most frequently used colors in Seojangdaeyajodo. The composition of yungbok was jurip, navy cheollik, red gwangdahoe, socks made of leather, and suhwaja. The composition of the military uniform was a lined jeolrip, dongdari, jeonbok, yodae, jeondae, and suhwaja. There were differences in the fabrics used in dangsanggwan and danghagwan military uniforms. Dangsanggwan used fabric with depictions of clouds and jewels, and danghagwan used unpatterned fabric. Moreover, jade, gold, and silver were used for detailed ornamental materials in dangsanggwan. The weapons included bows and a bow case, a sword, a rattan stick, wrist straps, and a ggakji. In the records of the King Jeongjo period, various colored heopsu were mentioned; the colors of the dongdari and jeonbok of dangsanggwan and danghagwan were referenced in various colors. It was presented as an illustration of costumes that could be used to produce objects accurately reflecting the above historical results. The basic principle of the illustration was to present the modeling standards for 3D content production. Samples of form, color, and material of the corresponding times and statuses were presented. The front, the side, and the back of each costume and its accessories were presented, and the colors were presented in RGB and CMYK.